♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Ok will do thanks.
Check your PM fella. About your order on the way to you . Thanks!
Hi Marcel, The bike was registered in April 2021 and has had it’s first and only service, this was on 14/07/21 and was at 625 miles. The service book says that it should have had it’s second service at 2485 miles or 6 months from date of purchase. So it’s not reached the mileage yet but well past the 2nd service date. BTW I’m the 3rd owner. Thanks, Nik
Just to ask has the warranty been passed on to you if the bike was bought from a dealer ?
Any reciepts of work carried out on the bike so you can see the history of its life (what’s changed, whats fixed, whats fitted etc)
They are leds & no oil pressure warning which I find a bit odd, I have considered fitting one from the filter but not got round to it yet.
That i would like to see 😉
Around 5k to 9k rpm it starts to wake up and sling shot away lol but 10k is usually where it makes its peak power , for most cruisers to make power low down, this should not be able to rev to 13k revs yet it is a high revving bike in general and seems to like it (around the 9-10k mark is fine all day)
Though 11-13k is usually no go zone unless bike agress with it for overtaking purposes (slow traffic) , so i think the red zone is just there for momentary use. Lest the valves start floating & extra wear , but i digress sorry.
is it cold over there yet ? – It’s autum now and about 15-20c general temps , i miss summer already!
Nice to hear its made it to 1500 miles , what reciepts or information do you have of what has been done to the bike (every nook and cranny of it)
I can probably advise what to use and what things need looking at certain mileage , but i have to ask ? isn’t your dealer responsible for fixing anything with the bike or maintaining it to keep the warranty active ?
This also could be worth a shot;
Along the harness , near the middle of the tank there is a diode (rectangular) shape white objected tucked away inside the harness tape. That’s for neutral. Also check neutral sensor itself, swap for another neutral sensor if in doubt.
They are not in the UK market yet but as soon as i get hold of a good supplier, i will advise or list them , this is also often asked for the older GV carby bikes.
I am also sure Korea is making them as optional item for new bikes like they did in the past, i am keeping an eye.
I dare not advise chinese made parts on such heavy bike, we don’t know how well they produce their own parts for this bike or it could fall apart soon.
Not all hope is lost, you can get a bike lift that will rise up the bike from under the middle of the chassis so the whole bike is suspended in the air, pretty handy if wanting to take both wheels off even for whatever needs servicing on them.
People that have bought 520 chain kits on this site have used small bike lifts at home or garages did it for them.
You will find various lifts on Amazon Prime for getting it faster, if it is urgent. I wouldn’t use old fashioned car jacks but some people have done that & not yet dropped their bikes to the side yet! 🤐😬
Was the compression also tested when engine was hot warm & full throttle with both plugs out ?
Welcome to the site , that’s a colour that has my heart as i have a thing about blue or red bikes or stealth black haha
First of all, enjoy riding it, then on a calm weekend or a day , have a look to see what’s been done under the hood that isn’t suspicious
If the bike runs as it should then that’s awesome. All that’s left for you is how nice you want it to look (beauty is of the beholder!)
You haven’t said if its carb or EFi (and which EFi ECU it has as there is various, meaning it will use different electronics than its predecessor , ie coils , ecu , stators and the like )
General questions like servicing calipers , oil , fuel , filters etc can always be found in the technical section of this site (in older topics asked by others already) but if not, you’re always welcome to make a new technical question.
Me too , i don’t like like the sound of single thumpers whatever the size it is lol. 2T will be an exception.
You can always buy 2x RS125 bikes and one is a future spares donor, buy another engine too. Then you should be okay.
As for the hyosung, hills & winds = 520 kit and improved clutch will help you for sure.
I don’t know about you but damn , that white center isn’t good, it suggests bike is leaning out full throttle.
Here is a picture of an old customer of mine , his bike as factory brand new. He did not touch anything and he is the only owner.
The carb was 3 to 4 turns from factory , standard jets, everything was standard on the bike. No mods.
It was annoying to start in winter sometimes.
Threads of spark plug is a bit yellow ish = engine hot (a tiny bit too hot)
oily threads = crap gasket inside rocker cover.ARCH of plug is okay = piston chamber heat is okay.
Center is brown ish = seems okay full throttle
Circle Ring is black, sooty = rich idling.
Next below is one of my old laser plugs. I was OCD with the bike , i got a little obsessed with trying to get an “ideal brown color” on the plugs.
These plugs are 2 years old.
The BDS26 carb has ability to power even a GS500 or maybe an old suzuki i4 (inline 4) with 15 pilots (up to 600cc maybe) , but 30 pilots ? Even the carb 250cc Hyosung is perfectly fine with 20 pilots it uses, mixtures on the 250cc would usually be 3 turns or little less from factory.
Not ideal i know. All stock carb bikes can be tuned 😉 – – If the 250cc (250cc?) can live with BDS26 carbs and same airbox & same air filter, i don’t think a 125cc will ever max out the capacity of the carb, so factories fit smaller jets. And sometimes downtune (downgrade?) the carb to meet 14HP laws in some countries. & emission control (Euro 3 crap)
However i do KNOW , using 250cc intake pipes on a 125cc engine helps with throttle response! (250 intake pipes have a bigger hole) and is much shorter , so carbs are much closer to engine with less travel around the manifold bends for air.
The 250cc airbox is required for this but its okay , its a little deeper than 125 (more room inside for air)
Have you perharps tried size 17.5 pilots ? and check your spark plug colours (from new or fresh clean)
At pilot 30’s , what is the mixture on the carb how many turns is it ?
It could be your climate and altitude where you live at , but here in UK , 15 pilots on the 125cc is the gold standard. The 4-7k rpm flat response is improved by ofcourse fine tuning the slide needle with larger main jets (1 size up front and rear main jets)
Ok will do thanks.
While you wait for those things….
Get your meter out….
Stage one = Switch to 20K ohms
Ground frame (meter -) & HT wire (meter +) = Ohms ?
Switch to 10 ohms (Ten)
Ground frame (meter -) and & Coil Terminal Spade = Ohms?
Now you have tested Secondary and Primary Resistance of the coil. Tell us and we will advise if the coils are in OEM spec or not.
Next…….
Remove HT Cap from the coils (unscrew anticlockwise)
—> Switch to 20k ohms
Meter (-) in one end of the HT cap and Meter (+) on the other end of the cap.Tell us the ohms of the HT cap by itself without any coils attacted to it.
I have a funny suspicion that the harness probably needs a thorough inspection (hard to do while its still on the frame) , it’s a long sucky day taking it off but…….
– Get mannol tape = And overtape the whole harness. It’s a very good tape! (Mannol Harness Tape)Korea’s own tape for the harness is not that great on carby bikes. and the wires easy get frayed or grazed up on the chassis if they get exposed (if they get exposed enough, they get chaffed , and if a naked copper line is exposed, it shorts the fuse or does something to the bike that it gets harder t start next time (as it’s annoyed)
– Get Halfords Contact Cleaner = Get crazy with it until you see your pins free from muck. = Dirt, debris inside plugs = No signals can pass thru , bike won’t start in some cases.
– Euro Carparts , Amazon PRIME 1 Day, Halfords = get ACF 50 = “whatever plug” , i mean “any plug” on the bike , add a very tiny drop of ACF50 inside and it will thank you for preserving its pins , sometimes “oxidization” happens inside plugs. Yes you can even ACF50 the battery terminals.
Do NOT use WD40 or any other substance = It will guarantee flames go up soon.
You should have your clutch switch by now.
Next , what else cuts sparks off besides loom?
– Side stand switch (bypass it, ) if yes already then good! = But remember the area that’s bypassed (ie at the plug , could have debris , double check it. It is very cruicial. Most newer 2015+ bikes that have trouble starting is because of this stand bypass being done poorly by last keepers)Hint = If sidestand bypass is not active or side stand switch is not there, the “WHITE RPM DASH” will not move at all ….. It stays “zero revs”
Hint 2 = If there is sparks , the RPM gauge will start moving up, 0, 2, 3, 5, 7k rpm (in a funny fashion) then bike fires up
(Don’t worry the starter motor still spins at 500-700rpm)Hint 3 = Rpm needle is moving up, then sweeps down , moves up , while cranking = You have no fuel coming out. So bike is dry sparking.
CDI = Can cut sparks off when its fautly , can’t start without it. However , it should be fine , it will be the LAST object to worry about.
Stator = “Pickup sensor” (2 Pin Plug) from the stator is the “beginning” of the sparking system. = GT125RC stators are quite smaller , 18 pole units , they usually have the pick up values similar to EFi bikes (80-110 ohms is good for the carby 125 in general)
Upgrade ones (would be around 120-140 max) , (as was the case in old gen carbies)Yellow wires = charge system = Beyond 1 ohm on any yellow wire ice cold means the stator is on the way out. Normal range is 0.5-0.9 ohm on a single yellow wire and the 3 wires must have identical values (if one wire is out of spec, the whole 3 phase unit is not good)
Hence Simon cautioned to have a good regulator next too. Stator & Reg usually go hand in hand (married). (as is the Ignition Coil & HT Cap need each other but a faulty HT Cap with a good coil means no sparkings or temperamental bike)
Clutch Switch = On the way, this cuts sparks off anytime the bike is running or turned on , this switch must work at all times.
Neutral Sensor = If this unit is faulty , the 2017 bike doesn’t want to know. It won’t spark.
Out of the bikes i usually fix , the New Shape 2014-2018 GT125s are notoriously hard to start , if they sense even one small thing out of place , the old gens can even fire on one cylinder and force themselves to start surprisingly or bump start easily in to 1st gear after a rider is pushed a few yards around in the yard.
I am digressing, i hope this helps!
I really hope you keep that bike, it looks really sweet and being the 1st owner of it , i think you would be silly to divorce it 😉
Any plans for the hyosung ? Considering you have had enough experience on 2 and 4 wheels to probably modify anything at this point lol.
Would this fit a 2009 GT125r If in doubt , get the trusted one from EBC UK , they make discs for hyosung. If in doubt, ask the local bike shop as they will usually have a trade account to get EBC pads, so ask them to get you locally an EBC disc for Hyosung GT, if its urgent for MOT etc. I usually have discs on ebay but used though with life in them, that’s a little cheaper than me ordering a new one for a client quickly.
125, 250, 650 = GT and GTR = Same discs. Up to 2019.
250 cams are heavier than 125cc and ofcourse they are thicker and have bigger egg lobes , so they may “press” down the cam buckets a bit further in to the cylinder so the valve could hit piston or just about “miss it” . Risky gamble but can try it.
Another problem = extra weight , more load on valve springs and slim cam chain. The 250 uses much fatter cam buckers and thicker chains ofcourse.
The sprockets of cam shaft may be removed , and use 125cc cam shaft sprockets to keep using the 125cc chain. However be warned on accelerated wear on valve parts, so frequent inspection may be advised.
250cc and 125cc vtwins have the same timings and same clearance, so i would not expect big performance gains. The most costly part in the engine is the crankshaft, so have to make sure crankshaft teeth of the 125 don’t get extra stress.
Just my thoughts 🙂
What happend to it ? Perharps i can repair the switch block for you ? Just send a PM and post it to me and i will see what i can do
If possible, post a picture here as to what damage is on it and such.
Ignore testing to the ground of the frame. This would be ideal here;
2PIN plug = under 200 ohms. See what it says.
3Pin Plug (Yellows)
Pin A & B = Ohms ?
Pin B & C = Ohms?
Pin C & A = Ohms ?Report back. Also check your PM please, i have responded to it.
This thread can stay open , so i won’t close it , if you get a break through, then great!
