♠️ M77
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I would trust the official Korean engine because the last GV250 was still made in korea called GV250DR – China has relationship with Hyosung Korea, so i would be surprised if Hyosung was involved in the chinese market to allow a china factory to clone their engine for china markets mostly.
As per Simon 🙂
If it says TCTC on the caliper, then yes any hyosung “TCTC” caliper will fit as they are grey coloured.
Just not the “brackets” (different forks , different mounts for different bikes)
If the GV125, has caliper that says “DSG” at the back, then you need a 2001-2004 GT125 Comet caliper that is also “DSG” branded , these are rare as are very very early ones for GV125/GT125 specifically.
GV650 is always grey TCTC until later EFi models used black forks and nissin-style large 4 pot calipers.
Keep us posted on the above comments i mentioned on what to do, as i believe it is also fueling woes. trust me it will show itself to be in a better mood.
Also because revs change , it may be due to crappy orings leaking under the inlets (even if the bolts are tight)
See this link hereIntake Pipe O-RING (Inlet Boot Seals) x2 – GV125 GT125 RX125 GV250 GT250 Hyosung
Very very crucial items.
Also get your self “PUTOLINE RACING GREASE” and soak the orings in them.
Hide the intake holes of your engine please, then use cotton wool ball or very fine fine wet sandpaper and scrape off any debris where the orings sit on the cylinder heads.
Using the bolt you took out, go to halfords and get the stainless version inlet manifold bolt you just took out. The Hyosung bolts for inlet bolts rust very easily.
So go careful with them as they are known to round off!
For EGR = See the vacuum diagram linked above , which talks about how to delete the EGR
or see this page for info on what it does etc, there is no need to order it now,EGR Valve Blanking Plate / AiS Delete Block Off Kit – Various Hyosung Carb Models
It’s a custom job , Skidmarx UK makes them perfectly for the old shape models of Hyosung GT’s but they don’t / won’t make them for the new shape models , it sucks as i’d happily buy a lot of them.
Now , it is a custom job to do it on the new shape sadly, some DIY skills and possibly fibreglassing copying may be involved. Don’t quote me on this as i havent tried personally but possibly look in to the R1 seat delete or R6. it may possibly be easier than Suzuki ones i think. Your main worry is working out how to mount the old hyosung metal latches from your rear seat off on to the new seat delete unit, then to lock it on to the pilly seat on frame so it doesn’t fly off while riding 😉
Hello Gary , can you attach the picture of your old coils vs the new ones side to side? and the wires in your hands so we see what’s going on there.
All 125 carb = All of them until 2019 use “single socket spade connector” and “one-eye ring wire thru bolt” wire. That’s it.
So i’d be curious to know what’s happened.
I am happy that it finally is breathing back to life, this is great! – I will probably find out if i can start doing rebuild kits for these starter motors than buying a full unit , could just mean a small part inside probably jammed thats all.
– Neutral Sensor (is it on?) , has it shown signs of abuse near the sprocket ? – Clutch Lever Handlebar switch (no need to bypass but check circuit isn’t broken with a meter ?) – Stator Pickup Sensor ? = Check it isn’t gummed up with dirt or fishy (plug is Blue & Green , white shell) Check omhs under 200 , and report back? – Engine Black Box all fully connected ? I say black box as i am unsure it is EFi (ECU) or CDI Unit (Carby) – So will generalize them as the “black boxes”. – Is the sidestand switch bypassed (recommended) Also, do this safely! – Have a friend push you down a private road and drop to 1nd gear and see if the bike starts from the crank ? We’re doing a process of elemination now. The fact the button says “click click” , means the circuit from the start button going to the solenoid isn’t broken (ie. wires okay) I do hope in the end of all this its just solenoid or the 1st three electric parts above cutting sparks off. Update us all and i will keep an eye on this topic.
thank you for you informational reply good sir. I shall check all the above as far as i know it has a delphi ecu. Cheers
Also just to add, since its a Delphi ECU , you should hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on and the Fi light should disappear once bike has started too.
Fortunately, if you do this safely , have a paper clip of metal. Then download the service manual on this forum for the EFi 650 , go to where it says “getting error code from ECU” , if a sensor near throttle body is fishy or fuel pump or even the lambda sensor or ET/AiT (temp sensors) the ecu would flag a code “C45” as am example on the dash once you do the instructions on the service manual
The paper clip will do the same job as a rocker switch mentioned in the manual.
The GT650 shock is a direct fit, also HAGON UK makes shocks for the 650, so it fits the 250 fine.
Also look for older Bandit Bikes , they fit the hyosung swing arm, pre-2005 era im sure. Personally i am still on the same shocks as they came with the factory both GT and GV i own, i just adjusted them to hardest setting that’s all. been good for few years now.
– Neutral Sensor (is it on?) , has it shown signs of abuse near the sprocket ?
– Clutch Lever Handlebar switch (no need to bypass but check circuit isn’t broken with a meter ?)
– Stator Pickup Sensor ? = Check it isn’t gummed up with dirt or fishy (plug is Blue & Green , white shell)
Check omhs under 200 , and report back?
– Engine Black Box all fully connected ?
I say black box as i am unsure it is EFi (ECU) or CDI Unit (Carby) – So will generalize them as the “black boxes”.– Is the sidestand switch bypassed (recommended)
Also, do this safely! – Have a friend push you down a private road and drop to 1nd gear and see if the bike starts from the crank ?
We’re doing a process of elemination now. The fact the button says “click click” , means the circuit from the start button going to the solenoid isn’t broken (ie. wires okay)
I do hope in the end of all this its just solenoid or the 1st three electric parts above cutting sparks off.
Update us all and i will keep an eye on this topic.
Hello,
You have the situation called the infamous high speed fuel starvation, this is how it happens:
– Carb bowls are full
– Bike is running normally (under 20-30mph)
– The road opens up to split lanes (dualways etc, 70mph section)
– The revs rise as the carb slides rise up
– It starts to drink the fuel inside the float bowls faster than the fuel pump and tap can keep up.
– Once bike feels like its running out of puff, it coasts to a dead stop
– The engine is hot and fumming (no pun intended!)
– It waits for the carb bowls to fill again whilst cranking and cranking to start it.Fortunately there is a remedy for this, so try these and every last thing you tick off below the bike will be grateful.
– Replace the lines (OEM Carb lines rot) and a monster filter is big enough to fill the carb bowls fast, or acts as little reserve for 1 mile to petrol station if you ride slowly and steady to maintain high MPG
See this (link here) and (this tutorial here)
– Better lines can hold more air in for the vacuum system to hold open the tap and pump under high revs and don’t swell near the hot rear engine.
So see this (link here) and the tutorial here
– Get “JIS” screwdriver (it is a must) before even thinking about stripping the carbs to upgrade their jets or just to check the previous owner hasn’t messed around.
Then see ( this link here )
– Do a “SLIDE MOD” while still at the carbs, look here -> (this link) , this will enrich the mid-range a little bit (around the 4-7k mark), so the bike is less flat.
– Get carb cleaner at halfords = Buy 4x cans (Yes you must go through 4 cans it is a must) then do the following- Blow the jets clean
- Blow every hole inside the carb clean (every last of it)
- Clean the exterior hard
- Get a fat stubby screwdriver (JIS type!) and then remove the fuel pump, do not open it, as there is no need. Blow carb cleaner inside the “GOLD PORTS” only! (DO NOT SPRAY the silver port of the fuel pump)
Consider replace the fuel tap from the tank (it is too common to digress as Korea taps haven’t been great on the hyosung 125cc motors) , plus you probably want something that flows a little better (like this one)
Last not least, always (i mean always use “E5” fuel)
Let us know how you get on. I hope i wrote everything correct 🙂
Only if you do every last word above ^ with the fuel system and bike still persists , then we will discuss the air system and electric system but i hope it doesn’t come to that , as we still have some few warm days left of summer to enjoy
Regards
You mean if you press “start” it just makes faint or loud clicks ?
Also does the dashboard dim dark or act funny like its disco lights all over the places ? (all this while pressing start)
Hey, I think it is off my head
- M22 x 30 x P1.0 x H12 Suzuki GP Pro (query this on amazon and see?)
(I hope im right!)
The nut OEM is a 30mm socket size , i don’t expect aftermarket ones to stray too far from that but beware of cheap metal copies , least heaven forbid you strip threads of the yoke tubeand have to replace the whole thing. It is very annoying when the bike goes over little humps and the whole front end judders if the nut is not torque to the right specs (if it says example “40 ft lbs” , then 40 it is, not more , not less. the new nut should handle that too.)
It is for that reason, i don’t use yoke extensions for GPS, i use these instead
- Oxford Strap Nav
- Buffalo Nav Bag
Use E5 only
Go to the battery and test these;- What volts is the battery at idle (DC)
- What volts is the battery at 5k revs (DC)
Switch the multi meter to 200 to 500v AC next, while the bike is still running, go and find the location of the stator on left side of the engine.
Follow its wire. Disconnect the yellow plug (3 pin yellow plug), now do the following and report back
- Probe the meter and put both “red” and ” black” probes of the meter inside the 3 pin plug in this sequence.
- Pin 1 & Pin 2 = Volts at 5k revs?
- Pin 1 & Pin 3 = Volts at 5K revs?
- Pin3 and Pin 1 = Volts at 5K revs?
It is a three phase stator, so we check all three lines.
There is no need to ground the frame or anything like that, we’re just seeing how much volt the stator gives in AC when disconnected (just the yellow plug!)
GV650, GT650, ST7 = Main major electric faults is usually the bad regulators korea ships with the bikes because Hyosung doesn’t make them, but asks another company in Korea to make stators and regulators.
Stators usually survive okay, but please check the wires are not burning hot or cooking up either, usually happens towards the regulator.
I do not mean to scare you off or anything as i’d want you to just go ride the bike but i’ve had instances where i’ve had to send both a new reg and new stator to folks in Scotland (it’s colder up there though???, i digress!)
Also check service history to see if anything about the injectors have been cleaned etc OR go to Halfords or EuroCarParts and only get this item below:
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/fuel-and-oil-additives/wynns-formula-gold-petrol-treatment-500ml-166754.htmlI do not recommend Redex, it isn’t great, despite its raves about it. Its effective on cars mainly.
If you have time and patience, you may strip the tank and (gently!) , remove the fuel pump and make sure its mesh filter isn’t overly clogged from years of debris or past keepers using junk supermarket fuel. We do not need to replace the pump if it is still working but less clogged mesh is good to improve its fuel flow.
A new pump is quite costly , we have to avoid replacing it. It will last as long as its taken care of 🙂
I hope i have made sense in this reply
Now those risers i want them 😉 , who stocks them ? I could buy a lot of sets for us UK folk here, (thinking about it)
Did the cables stretch by any chance ? Sometimes new cables are needed if the height or distance to reach the controls is extended , ie (clutch line, brake lines, etc) and check switch gears are not being pulled when turning the bike left full lock and right full lock, just a shout!
Hello,
~Motul 7100 10w40 (or 10w50) = Use this forever.
If out of stock (rarely) , then use these also;
– Silkolene Comp 4 10w40 or 10w50
– Silkolene Pro 4 10w40I said 10w50 is good in summer, and i use 10w40 during the colder days, although the 125cc benefits on a 250cc cooler much more. Just an idea!
Castrol is like water, no matter how flashy the box is. Motul 5000 is more basic , the service manual of the 125 Hyosung says use premium grade oil if you can to extend its life. It has a harder life than a 250cc / 650cc does but though it is a very good machine when it is very well looked after.
Look at this link below:
[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
You may be needing a new clutch. Least if a garage was to be sure the clutch is okay, they “must” get a venier caliper and macro gauge and measure thickness of the plates , and springs and confirm on paper. Let us know, then ill confirm if the plates and springs are in spec. Though a new clutch does go a long way during servicing. That’s why in service manual it mentions to “check/measure” or replace the clutch around 4k mark.
Also the 125cc clutch basket can have slight indents in the outter edges which slightly stops plates moving efficiently, these can be filled off gently , unless worn down then replace the OUTER basket. I will do a tutorial about it when i get round to it.
Oh, replace the filter too, always, see this link here:
[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
Hope i made sense 🙂
if its efi then they need to be from the efi variants.
You are correct, he would not be able to fit EFI rear panels on to an old gen bike due to subframe changes (whatever CC it is)
However if it a GTR, he can use either front EFI nose cage, headlight, efi face, to transport on to the old gen front end = this is the only way to use EFI plastics on the old gen, is the face area of the bike.
Lower panels that hide the engine haven’t changed – he can get whatever year until 2019
What a stunning set of pictures, motivates me now to even go on holiday soon!
Lack of snappy throttle can just mean the carb needs a nice ultrasonic clean once in a while, it really pays off and at least you can find out if the previous did anything suspicious like putting the wrong jets inside which makes a bike a little too rich when its hot. Fortunately, this site has various carb tutorials for carb tune ups. But before you or anyone attempts to open the carbs, please get fresh screws from the shop and discard the old ones. Never reuse old carb screws.
Also as it s JAPAN carb, use a Jap screwdriver called “JIS” screwdriver, cause UK drivers will instantly round off the heads. Incase you or your mechanic not aware.Plugs, are always an easy replacement, stock ones work okay, but age or mileage (whichever is first) will make them wane, new ones go a long way.
If you look under the bike and you have silver colored pipes, then you have stainless pipes from Black Widow UK , or Scorpion , or MTC (rare) or MotoUnion (too rare, out of business) or even TK ones , they will discolour a bit with heat. It is normal.
Hope you enjoying the bike, post the in Tech section if anything comes up.
If not, share a picture of her here;
I’ve run into another problem with the right fork, the rebound damper adjuster ain’t working, it just rotates all the way round but the left side works ok Can they be repaired or is it a new right fork ???
Sounds like you have to split the fork again to see what’s hopefully not broken inside though , otherwise if all fails , it should be OK to get another fork leg that looks “identical” to yours. Ignore 125cc and 250cc forks because they have different internals, the 650 is much heavier , and has adjustable tops.
