♠️ M77
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What about cutting them to the right lenght and using a thread chaser or file? They dont look that bad in gold.
Go for it but personally i would want stainless steel as those bolts tend to rust later
Hard to tell you if its a clutch basket or cam tensioners etc.
Get a screwdriver that’s long , place the pointy end to the engine and the other plastic part on your ear, see if you can find the real source of the noise. Then i will take a screenshot of the service manual that tells you the likely causesEg. sounds like AK47 on the front exhaust pipe right there but more at the top part, then it it likely means “valves need adjusting” (too lose cold, heat closes the gap a tiny bit as heat / cold have weird physics on metals) , just an example!
If you say “the middle exactly where it says “hyosung” on the clutch cover , ==> Check your clutch plates and your thrust bearings  (if sounds change pulling clutch in or not etc ) , so you have to do a deeper dive if possible to locate the noise a bit more precise if you can.
Can you elaborate more ?
Could be plastics lose / exhaust clamps / exhaust has a hole somewhere / Clutch Plates need changing ? / Cam Chain Tensioner ? / Valves Clearances need adjustment ?
You have to locate the source of the noise as close as you can.
They sent the wrong bolts, those gold ones belong to GV Aquila 250
Now, go to a local DIY store and get M8 x 25mm (2 bolts) and M8 x 30mm (2 bolts)  – I am no sure if its 25mm or 30mm for the back but my brain is fried today haha.
If its 25mm for the back (i think it is), keep the spare 30mm for the front caliper! (it’s always longer than the back)
Yes the metal silver plate is threaded , so screw in to the caliper mount (metal plate) and use 15 FT LBS torque.
Welcome Patricia!
I would get these for you but there is a supply shortage in South Korea at the moment it looks, so there are certain parts still on back orders from most sellers and dealers.
Try SIMMA FRANCEÂ (EU importer)Â Â or check eBay Germany for Gv125S parts being broken up by a salvage yard
Crazy as this sounds , you could go to a garage and ask them to dig out a very big O-ring that is strong, they can hook 1 side and pull it to the other side to hold the battery down, if its a very thick O ring.
Exhaust shield = If simma doesn’t have it, could a local garage get someone who works with metal to cut one for you to fit and weld it to the bike ?
Is it like ON / OFF at a rapid rate  or  is it fully on but going from 70% brightness to 100% brightness etc ?
Sorry to ask, if you ever have access to GoogleDrive / DropBox etc ,  record it on your phone (hopefully we can make out what’s going on) , upload the video to GoogleDrive or OneDrive etc….
Paste the public-Share link here
My GT carby flickers (it IS on) but because its an older carb model, the stator is the older 11/12 pole type, so lower revs the lights are a little duller until it warms up to about 1800 rpm, they get brighter ,  the rear light is LED cluster , it does rapid flickers all day long but gets extra bright when brakes applied , the flicker is reduced when revs go up (I am riding) , weird but it’s almost nonexistent with an updated OEM 18 pole stator and flywheel and used a MOSFET Reg Rec to make sure its a consistence 14v all day long (from idle to hot riding), that fixed it mostly.
I say this to say if this could be that ? or your issue is different ? You will let us know further!
Also check your stator and regulator! (ignore that it says 125cc below but follow the images to check stator condition) and your coils  (they do make 10,000v sparks, you want to make sure they are doing their job and not overly taxing the charging system)
GV700i (St7) will either have the older 2 Pin coils or the new Forward updated Delphi Coils (looks like shotgun)  as Hyosung has indeeded updated the ST7 twice under the hood but keep the bodywork looking the same until they moved on to the new 2025 GV650 that’s out now.Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Rectifier issues or the stator is wanning.  Get a pocket meter and test your stator according to the service manual instructions.  Stator first, check, then check RR
Sometimes a new RR (Reg Reg) gets cooked by a failing old stator, also open the casing to make sure the windings didn’t get burnt out drain oil first
Hey,
Go to any of their topics and scroll down to the bottom of their topic, you will see a white reply boxThanks for your feedback, i will try to improve navigation further.
Turn the key On/Off  3x or 5x  OR   Turn Key on –> Then press kill switch 3-5x times quickly and wait for the red Fi light to flash.
Count the sequences and let us know ?
Eg. 5 blinks , pause, 4 blinks , pause , 6 blinks  = Bike said Error is 5-4-6 , it will repeat itself. Or it will pause for longer , then send out another error code (if 2 devices are at fault or need attention)
You will need to get the service manual which goes in deep detail, get either GV250 or GV125 (same timings) , on this forum or check ManualsLIB website , you will see cartoon diagrams with it too. Hope this helps and please take your time, as 1 tiny (i mean tiny) error means your valve will hit a piston = new parts time.
If you can get a 3.5 bar regulator , then test it to make sure your engine isn’t flooded or the fuel pump is over working itself, then why not.
I only suggested the ebay links as here in UK, all GV EFi including 2008 have new tanks from 2008-2017 the same , they use internal pumps with built in regulators , i have never seen an EFi that used external pumps , so it is surprising to me.
Is it possible at all , to fit something like this below inside your tank ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257415344253
if we can put the whole pump and its embedded pressure part as one piece, then your tank just takes 1 pipe going to the throttle bodies ?
Unless you have a carby makeshift tank ?
Your tank should look like this for a Daewoo/Sentec model
Try to loosen the steering nut  (it says in service manual if steering is too heavy,, check steering yoke top nut or check the bearings  or possibly the two “castle-nuts” which lock the bearings and yoke bar inside , loosen a little bit so the bearings are not too squashed down too hard.
It’s tricky to explain but i hope i made some sense ?
Fuel Level Reading = Normally, sometimes my 2005 GT took 10mins to get levels ready , then the bars started climbing up.  The RC EFi model will flash empty for a little bit then get readings once it settles.
If the sensor is dead = it wont say anything all day. It doesn’t need ECU as fuel sender goes straight to dashboard via yellow wire (if i remember correctly?)
Hyosung either used capacitors or soldered battery on the dash to remember clock time, but after many years it stops , so counter always resets. It never bothered me to fix it as i just look at the phone or my wrist for true time haha.
Delphi vs Mitsubishi ECU is up to you , whichever is a cheaper or quicker route for you!
Yes sure, you can post a video to googledrive , then post a share link here.
So it repeated ” 10-3-5-1 (Failing ignition coils)” again on new coils and new caps ? with new spark plugs?
If you rode on limp mode, was that on 1 cylinder or were both cylinders running okay on your return trip home
It happened to me last week, i found out the front coil had a loose connector which was my fault , i had to change spark plugs & drop the radiator but did not realize the engine vibrates a lot and we have sketchy roads in the UK , so if anything wasnt rtight, it will get vibrated off = Though you have a delphi coil which has a better connector that clips tight, i can’t help wonder if the harness connecting the coils are the problem ?
If no other codes come on the ECU , i am assuming!
Beautify as the GV650 is , I honestly believe it is FARRRRR better to go Carby route then EFi! – I never liked EFi machines (even if it was a Honda etc, too many electronics ,i dont even trust ABS brakes lol!)  == 250cc/125cc EFi owners will have an easier time though as easier to diagnose them
The carbs may need very deep cleaning through and through then while carb is apart, check float heights , float seats , jet sizes and the slides retract nice and smooth.
If you can. Spray carb cleaner on cylinder head rubber pipes. If revs change = leak. Replace their o rings or check damage to those pipes
Delphi System = stator and flywheel changed,
Delphi Coils (uses special plugs on harness that accept delphi only)
Harness + ECU
Iscv + injectors (newer black ones) + lambda sensors (delphi) + the sensors around your intake / airbox
Dash stays on bike its already EFi supported for various ECUs
Those are the main hurdles for conversion
