โ ๏ธ M77
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if the intake manifolds are 2016 = made in china, very poor quality even OEM ones! , if the intake pipe is 2008 , much better and made in South Korea. I don’t have too much faith in China lol.
Hyosung has used a few chinese companies to replicate their older GV engines + Parts for the Asia market, so you will find the updated chinese/korean engine updated as “GV250-DR” , they definitely stopped making GT parts , so their main focus is GV bikes. Hyosung KR Motors owns a chinese company thats even cloning their Korean 650cc for the updated GV650 ABS model that is already out in europe.
If you strip a 2016 black engine, of a 125cc, you will see under the barrels , it will say “made in china” but other parts + R&D is still South Korea.
China is just wild , they even call Hyosung a different name over there!
would that be an EFi or carb model (Carb models got sold until 2010 but EFi started in 2008 = So its a transitory gap hence we ask)
What work has been done to the bike so far to try overhaul it ?
Not something that is usually uploaded here, so you might need to buy a spare ECU to download data off of it.
Can you attach a picture showing / marking the areas where you see the leaks ?
yes ofcourse, we got your email and responded to it!
Happy bank holiday!
Have you checked everything else mentioned in my previous comments ? – You either have compression issue or carb issue (explained above) or electric
Go halfords and buy the yellow “bradex” easy-start , spray the air filter for 10 seconds, put it back on the airbox or spray inside the airbox – Make sure the airbox is on and secured (harder to start without it properly)
Full choke, crank and let it scream to life , then see if the carbs will run on choke for 5mins, then slowly turn the choke off
If it dies, let us know – Also check if both cylinders are hot if its running on choke?
you either have fueling issues from a clogged tap, clogged pump , (yes new parts can get clogged up if the tank has debris) or the carbs need attention (likely “Starter Jet” that is permanent is clogged, pilot jets clogged up) or even the carb passages (every hole in the carb) is clogged
Or you will need to check your intake manifolds, and replace their O-RINGS if there is micro leaks under there causing a loss vacuum to open the pump / carb isn’t being utilized properly by the engine due to vacuum loss)
Check spark plugs if they are wet ? (fuel is entering engine, therefore it should spark and start)
No need for a new caliper if you can check out the shop above ^ for the stainless rebuild kits.
Speed Sensor = ebay (you will find it there as we listed it) just type “Speed Sensor Hyosung GT” , it will be the electric one.
Fuel Sensor = Same thing, its on ebay .
Tyre – We have a michelin rear tyre that is good to go, send us an email below
Hyosung has likely moved on to newer production pistons, so they don’t really make the old type anymore. Hence it is good to get a piston + matching cylinder. Even their Japan GV250DRA 2026 uses 57mm pistons now
If you don’t see it on this forum, check manualsLIB website it has the biggest database of manuals for most bikes. New cylinders will fit your 2001 , just get pistons with it or check ebay for used pistons & cylinders
The float part number is the digital version that is used on the 650cc but the extra wire is overkill , likely for (warning) , these are very rare , as Hyosung is using 2 pins since 2004, their newest GV125-S EFi model 125cc is 2 pins and is using a float arm. (much better) than the rare stick version you see in pics.
You should be able to find a gasket for the fuel sender on ebay incase you go back to the 2 pin version, I suspect the last owners got desparate and used the old old 650 3pin version.
All EFi 250/650 use the float arm that moves up & down with 2 pins. For some people, they use the ODO Trip Meter to count the miles before filling up again if the fuel gauge isn’t working. Hell some older suzuki bikes did not have a fuel gauge. So it was a luxury thing for Hyosung since their GA Cruise 2 125cc days & made sure other future models always have it. Bikes without it i know and owned in the flesh was the supermotos/enduros (RT125/RX125)
I suppose with your 3pin version being rare as it is, you wont worry about a float breaking off , as its all digitized (and yes some GT650 still used analogue style clocks before the LCD era after 2005+) , you just have to figure out wiring on retrofitting some gauge you have either a suzuki one or aftermarket gauge, and expect to read OHMS for each wire and study yourself how much fuel is in tank and what ohms it is, and see if that registers on the whichever dash you’re using. I have not seen these fuel gauge values in the manuals yet. Aftermarket Senders ? = Custom work for yourself , I don’t really use them as my bikes still use their OEM clocks , i prefer the OEM senders, (despite them being optimistic at times) , i do a lot of motorway distance trips. Not every stop has E5 , so will need to travel further to fill up sometimes.
Would you be able to record this inside the garage (so that there is no wind noise) and point to it (ie, your finger is showing where the loudest sound is) . Upload it to GoogleDrive/DropBox etc , get a public share link to post on this forum, i could try to suspect what it is
Hyosung only uses 2 wires for every fuel sensor they make (any model) , its always a grey-black wire and yellow-black wire (or just yellow ish) for fuel level. Not clued up on bandit clocks there, so you have to check Gixxer forums for clock wiring diagrams , that includes the speed sensor.
125/250 do not use oil level lights or temp gauge , it’s turned off the chip and no wires for it in the harness or even ports for it on the engine.
Only 250 EFi gets Temp Sensor in front head strictly tells the ECU (not the rider) so you will never know what temp the engine is, you have to go custom route there yourself.
650cc hyos are the ones who get user-displayed temp sensor as there is fan & switches around the radiator and thermostat. No oil level indicator , just manually checking the sight glass instead.
Would i be correct to say it sounds like an Ak47 in slow motion and where is the sound most loudest ? which exact part of the engine ? – Seems to be idling eneven, so also check your spark plugs incase one cylinder isnt burning properly
If the engine is cold, start it and put your hand on it and see if you feel anything that suggests something is banging against the walls ?
I am not able to decipher the video properly but my guess so far would be either clutch basket or top end
or one cylinder isn’t burning properly (causing uneven running?) – I haven’t even addressed the carbs yet (it will be the last thing unless plugs are pure white clean = no fuel in that cylinder)
Worst case scenario is that i really , really hope it is just a time to do valve clearances (if they were too loose , you would also get that Ak47 sound but usually happens at higher revs)
Have a look at this topic below in regards to intake pipes, it could be worth repairing it.
It is very difficult to get one as the RT125 versions don’t fit (which is a more recent bike than the XRX), so you have to preserve yours as much as you can and you can comment on the topic above ^ and hopefully he replies with extra times.
Plastics = They have always been orange mainly , the UK loves that colour! – I don’t , its too bright for me, but i will tolerate RED or BLUE but black stealth is better with a red frame!
Graphics = Hyosung won’t do it anymore and it was rare , so you may need to go custom here.
Welcome to the club!
Could you possibly be able to record this ? and upload it to Google Drive , then get a public share link , post the link here to view it.
But do check the clutch basket , rattling is something spinning, so I hope it is just a thrust bearing for the clutch or 1 clutch plate that has worn down too far and it has cracked (Happens actually) then its just clutch overhaul job.
Tensioners Cam = I am not sure what to say just yet until you get it running fully or check the flywheel area to see if the sprag clutch is making noise there ? or a rattling worn out starter motor ?
Just have to find the source of the noise as far as you can.
The bike wont like running cone filters , you will be in hell for sure.
Though you can make a metal box , fabricated , then cut 3 holes (2 for the carbs and use GT125R airbox rubbers) and cut other hole for tube custom flexi hose to connect to the air-filter box on the side of thebox Thats what some people do now. Costly but least with a custom metalbox, you never have to worry about the plastic airbox ever again.
Besides hyosung isn’t making new ones anymore. They moved on to EFi GV125 Bobber models now.
Using a multi meter, check the same wire colours from this thread below
Needing a little help with my current project (+GT125 CDI PIN OUT)
And verify the coil wires are not broken towards the CDI or fray, otherwise the meter would say “eg. Blue/White Tracer wire for rear” no signal since its broken somewhere along the harness or it will tell you the circuit is complete (no breaks in the line) , then we should check the clutch Switch (Dont bypass it as fake neutrals can happen , rare but does happen) but you want the CDI plug to know it can sense it at the front handlebar lever switch , then also check sidestand (bypass it hard) , if it is bypassed sidestand, remove it and check the sidestand bypass wires did not get rottten (it makes it very hard to start the bike!)
These 2 I just mentioned do cut sparks off if the CDI can’t sense it.
Worst case scenario is that you may need to remove the harness and fully examine it , then check the coils using the link below:
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Check their resistance and report back the figures. Check your HT caps too. Then test again for sparks , see if they are bright blue or just very dull yellow sparks. (Becareful though as you don’t want to spark anywhere near fuel! – So just be wise)
Hopefully we are not looking to replace the CDI as the last resort or the bike has the wrong stator fitted. (Stator = No sparks will happen unless the CDi reads the stator’s pickup coil first)
RC & OIder R models use different flywheels, previous owners may have tried to put the wrong stator and bike wont start , it is just an idea, you will see for yourself if it is correct. RC stators rarely need replacing unless they got cooked by a crappy OEM Reg Rec
