♠️ M77
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If you can get a 3.5 bar regulator , then test it to make sure your engine isn’t flooded or the fuel pump is over working itself, then why not.
I only suggested the ebay links as here in UK, all GV EFi including 2008 have new tanks from 2008-2017 the same , they use internal pumps with built in regulators , i have never seen an EFi that used external pumps , so it is surprising to me.
Is it possible at all , to fit something like this below inside your tank ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257415344253
if we can put the whole pump and its embedded pressure part as one piece, then your tank just takes 1 pipe going to the throttle bodies ?
Unless you have a carby makeshift tank ?
Your tank should look like this for a Daewoo/Sentec model
Try to loosen the steering nut (it says in service manual if steering is too heavy,, check steering yoke top nut or check the bearings or possibly the two “castle-nuts” which lock the bearings and yoke bar inside , loosen a little bit so the bearings are not too squashed down too hard.
It’s tricky to explain but i hope i made some sense ?
Fuel Level Reading = Normally, sometimes my 2005 GT took 10mins to get levels ready , then the bars started climbing up. The RC EFi model will flash empty for a little bit then get readings once it settles.
If the sensor is dead = it wont say anything all day. It doesn’t need ECU as fuel sender goes straight to dashboard via yellow wire (if i remember correctly?)
Hyosung either used capacitors or soldered battery on the dash to remember clock time, but after many years it stops , so counter always resets. It never bothered me to fix it as i just look at the phone or my wrist for true time haha.
Delphi vs Mitsubishi ECU is up to you , whichever is a cheaper or quicker route for you!
Yes sure, you can post a video to googledrive , then post a share link here.
So it repeated ” 10-3-5-1 (Failing ignition coils)” again on new coils and new caps ? with new spark plugs?
If you rode on limp mode, was that on 1 cylinder or were both cylinders running okay on your return trip home
It happened to me last week, i found out the front coil had a loose connector which was my fault , i had to change spark plugs & drop the radiator but did not realize the engine vibrates a lot and we have sketchy roads in the UK , so if anything wasnt rtight, it will get vibrated off = Though you have a delphi coil which has a better connector that clips tight, i can’t help wonder if the harness connecting the coils are the problem ?
If no other codes come on the ECU , i am assuming!
Beautify as the GV650 is , I honestly believe it is FARRRRR better to go Carby route then EFi! – I never liked EFi machines (even if it was a Honda etc, too many electronics ,i dont even trust ABS brakes lol!) == 250cc/125cc EFi owners will have an easier time though as easier to diagnose them
The carbs may need very deep cleaning through and through then while carb is apart, check float heights , float seats , jet sizes and the slides retract nice and smooth.
If you can. Spray carb cleaner on cylinder head rubber pipes. If revs change = leak. Replace their o rings or check damage to those pipes
Delphi System = stator and flywheel changed,
Delphi Coils (uses special plugs on harness that accept delphi only)
Harness + ECU
Iscv + injectors (newer black ones) + lambda sensors (delphi) + the sensors around your intake / airbox
Dash stays on bike its already EFi supported for various ECUs
Those are the main hurdles for conversion
Try to see if you can check engine compression 1st. You want to be sure both cylinders are compressing well
You have the mega, mega, mega rare Japanese made ECU by Mitsubishi Motors , I hope it is not fault , but because it is rare , If i were you i would check ebay US and eBay EU for this exact ECU as a backup. (I would trust this ECU or Delphi over any Daewoo ECU as Daewoo Era of Hyosungs had a lot of ECU failures)
If you have a Mitsubishi system on the bike, i would look after it.
If every single thing has been checked on the bike, then I will assume it is the ECU as your last thing to check. No proper way to diagnose it unless it gives error codes itself on the dashboard (service manual = mitsubishi era , will let you know how to get error codes) , if no error codes come, hunt a spare ECU.
If the ECU is not found at all, then have a think and see if there is a very cheap 650cc that was in an accident but electrics intact, get DELPHI as they are more present than the Japan ECU models.
Sorry I don’t have a very good answer to your problem as this is making me assume it is the ECU next. It’s weird how it works without ISCV attached but engine runs normally when riding, so strange, i don’t hear too much issues with Mitsubishi ECU models.
Maybe we have a problematic ECU or the harness plug from ISCV wires need cleaning up and also the same wires at the ECU connector.
It suggest the problem lies within there.
Cap Covers are okay with NGK leads, they are straight type, but NGK makes long and short , they all fit deep inside the plug holes, the important thing is making sure the OEM Dust Caps are over there, to stop even moisture air or water going in there , it will just fry things. Don’t worry the NGK caps rarely fail, so no need to test them especially when they are new.
Since the NGK Caps, it looks like your resistance is a little better ? 0.1 to 1.0 ohm between the Terminals of the coils is OEM spec, so that’s fine.
Do both coils spark when starting the bike? Put the plug against an unpainted part like a valve cover bolt, see if your sparks look yellow or blue (good)
Crazy as this sounds, disconnect all lights and try again,
From your video , when it runs, you have FI.0.FI.0.Fi. flashing when it runs, this means “Fuel Injection” system , so suspects will be the pump , or injectors or TPS ?
You should unplug ECU for a bit, unplug the battery , turn key ON, let the juices in the harness go away so the bike is zero volts everywhere i hope, then replug the ECU and battery back in, flick the kill switch red button a few times quick (3x quick usually) then count the sequences of the flashing red light
It could flash 10 times first , then 1 , 4 , 5 = Code 10-1-4-5 (it will repeat itself) or it will flash another code if multiple sensors need attention.
Crazy as this sounds too, if you are in an emergency , you could send me an email now if you wanted a 2009 SENTEC ECU + Harness + All kinds of parts + Fuel Pump (older model) x2 , then you could be up and running quick. I do have a video of the donor machine running, it’s too big for the forum, i can send it via email when i upload it to youtube or some Google Driver share link.
If you stay with your current ECU, start hunting down now for a spare ECU , just incase old one has bugs but i hope not!
Low compression in one cylinder ? or electric issues from Injectors or the fuel pump itself (maybe the fuel pump is clogged on its strainer?)
have you looked at those ? If in doubt , replace the fuel strainer or the whole pump assembly, then get injectors cleaned , after this, replace the spark plugs again using NGK CR8E
Report back to see if that helped ? Don’t forget to clean all the contacts of the wiring harness, so the ECU gets a clean signal for all sensors attached to the bike, the Sentec & Daewoo ECU’s don’t respond very well to electric faults , so make sure the harness is good too!
All stators have 3 yellow wires to feed the regulator unit, just make sure the plugs match that’s all as Hyosung updated the plug shapes in later years.
You should replace those suspicious plugs with CR8E if that was what the previous owner did , then stay on CR8E forever as it’s the OEM plug , don’t fit “IX Iridiums” as they don’t like them for too long (Stock or LASER CR8E is best)
See what happens then, also if it dies when spraying the rear, you have a small air leak, the metal throttle bodies have 3x orings per cylinder (3x front and 3x rear), so if you get time, I would recommend stripping the intake system down so you can get to those O Rings, even old o rings can cake up due to old age rubber (it’s like having 20yr old tyres on the bike, you will start to see expansion cracks everywhere.
We should have a happy bike after this , as its only 2,000 miles old. So i am not expecting any electrical issues at this point but worth checking , and if you see anything oxidized like “rusty connectors”, just give them a clean with contact cleaner.
When it comes to the ECU = Do not spray any liquids, always use dry compressed air on the ECU socket plug, it will thank you. Clean electrics should translate to a snappier bike overall
Carefully and very very very patiently (so you don’t stress the intake pipes), you can get away with unscrewing the carb floats while still on the bike, but you need to drain its fuel first on the float drain screws.
Take a look at the pilots.
Try also 87.5 x2 mains which should be cheap on ebay ?
Mixtures = Don’t touch them ever if the bike is idling fine and changing gears smoothly (like no big “chug chug chugs forward and shoots off like a train” = carb issues or clogged carb again”)
If you have a mini air compressor machine with a small tip hose, you could blow the carbs clean under the floats to force stubbon internal dirt that’s inside the silver body of the carb.
Also on your chain kit, check the reviews as they mention what other riders setups were like and the kinds of speeds they got, to see if yours is on par.
5th gear is rarely used unless on a long A-road that’s 70 plus and your next junction is miles away , its more a stretch gear, most GV riders i know run around the city and never go beyond 40 miles out of their home address , so gear 1 to gear 3 was important to them.
Gear 4 and gear 5 , definitely keeps her calmer than screaming so much if on a long road trip on those long B roads or A roads.
Does it accelerate OK at 1st to 3rd gear ? and what RPM is 30mph ?
Grab a fresh set of CR8E , fit them in and ride for a short distance, come back, let it cool down, take the plugs out , take a few pictures and upload them here, so we can see what’s going on?
Either we have a fueling problem or the HT Caps (not coils) are waning or the carbs themselves need attention.As it’s idling, spray carb cleaner on the rubber intake pipes and find out if the revs change ? (It could be a good idea to change the O-RINGS under the intake pipes as if they are caked up dry , old etc, they will cause all kinds of weird issues when the vacuum system is not sealed tight.
Hmmm “as long as you hold the throttle a little bit, it wont stall” , right here, i would quickly double check your butterflies in the throttle bodies did not get modified ? and try this , disconnect the ISCV and manually connect 2 fresh hoses from intake pipes to the airbox , see if idle improves ?
Then we can confirm if it was the throttle body , but also if you managed to remove the throttlebodies, replace the O-rings under them to stop any small air leaks or spray carb cleaner there to see if revs rise or change?
Stator, Coil, Caps = Check this link below and look for my reply that tells you how to test them with a multi meter (Ignore that it says GT125, the testing method is the same for its 650 sister)
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
What part numbers are printed on the coil or any picture you can post of the current coil ?
SV & Hyosung in earlier days used the same coil made by Mitsubishi Japan (the long oblong ones) so no difference , however the later smaller coils are made by Hankuk Korea , and Delphi Coils are Delphi only.
So if you have a Delphi coil that looks like a shotgun , then you can only use Delphi coils as not to trip up the ECU, Delphi ECU also expects the coils to have certain resistance secondary and primary , hence the forced change over to stop older coils fitting to delphi units. Their best upgrade for the coils is good HT leads & Caps (NGK)
The Delphi 650 (GV or GT) would get mostly the same codes but i’ve yet to find something “GV Delphi” specific yet considering both GT and GV don’t share the same ECU’s or dashboards, the flashing sequence of the red Fi light you said seems to match what i found in the books if its true. You would have to read the flashing sequences again , if it happens again but unplug the battery for a day (just to see if the same flashing errors occur) – The LCD panel is funny sometimes, it can say FI, 0, Fi, 0, while riding not telling me much, but if i park up and flick the kill switch 3 times rapid before starting, the red light will flash telling me the true issues. The red Fi light is more handy than the LCD panel.
