♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I am not sure which Kawasaki as such , but Honda and Aprilia should have 51mm shocks also, which those bike brands, we could possible have broad options of fork spring upgrades in their 51mm tubes. I have personally not ever had to order a single Hyosung fork spring, Kayaba just sells complete forks only (Kayaba Japan who still make shocks for Suzuki and Hyosung , KYB for short) , go for the SHOWA forks if you find them or OHLINS !
If push comes to shove , anchor a magentic bolt sensing pickup next to the fork leg which counts the wheel speed , and have a small mini cockpit that tells your kmh/mph speeds if you have to have one.
Gear position = This is off 250cc , but it gives ideas if you want to know what gear you’re in
[Tutorial] Gear position sensor fault – Neutral switch GV 250 Aquila EFI 2010
I prefer carb models , less stress BUT it means you have to keep the carbs clean all the time and the intake pipe rubbers need spares.
EFi is good for “snappy” throttle and fuel management , and we have metal intake pipes!
If you ever get hold of a carb model that is crashed , buy it as a donor and rebuild all its carb parts , then when you are ready , transfer everythingg over (for your EFi bike not even the tank or stator or air box or speedometer is compatible with carb models)
If you keep it EFi, the best investment is Ester Oil , Cleaning once a while with WYNNS FORMULA GOLD product , a true MOSFET regulator, your ECU will last longer! , install a volt meter to keep an eye but you need to find a way not to cut wires on the harness, the volt meter should be its own harnesss to the battery with a ON/OFF switch at the handlebar , that’s it. Invest in good japan coils or get new OEM Hankuk/Daewoo Korea coils as spares , don’t get unknown ones unless you trust them , we don’t even sell unknown coils for EFi anymore, it’s all Japanese only, then use NGK caps , Laser Plugs (not IX ones) – We should have a good healthy sparking system
BMC air filter in italy is OK if you keep the DB killer inside exhaust and exhaust can is about 400mm long , then it wont lean out at higher speeds, least you don’t spend money every 5-10k miles replacing stock filters when you can get a better free flow lifetime filter.
Ofcourse good brakes and tyres are more important!
Welcome to the forum , and that’s a beauty for the track 🙂 – We hope you win any races you do!
Try YSS itself or Suzuki Bandit 1200 ( I am not sure if it is Mk1 or Mk2 , be sure to measure it as the Hyosung is typically 315mm shock , so that it doesn’t rub on the swing arm itself (notice how close the spring is to the actual metal of the swingarm area, very tight fit.)
Front Forks = You can get HAGON RACING springs made in the UK for the Hyosung 650 (I am not sure if they still do them but it is worth double checking!)
If not, you can fit other 51mm forks through the yokes (Eg. using a Kawasaki fork , might mean you use a Kawasaki wheel , I don’t know if the races require you to have a speed KMH/MPH sensor or not , like Hyosung does but it would be the final hurdle) . Just some ideas!
that would be enough to get caught between the crank bearings as it disintegrates around the motor or blocking oil jets around the engine, nice work. If it was sitting directly above the oil mesh (oil strainer under the drain cap) , 2 screws out and tweezers would have taken it away , which likely will remind you to remove the oil strainer mesh under the oil drain cap to see if anything else falls out (you might need a torch)
Cleaned the cylinder walls with warm soapy water, oiled and honed then checked oiled and honed then checked……oiled and honed then checked. Washed again with warm soapy water. Oiled the cylinder walls……then realized I dropped part of the gasket inside the block. Not where the chain goes…but down inside the abyss. Yup, sure did.
Captain hook on your arm and hopefully the other hand has “crab arms” to pick and claw it out ? without having to split the whole thing apart! – Tweezers might be too small for that job but i have a feeling you will get creative!
No this is good, as it was a needed excuse to give her new parts to prolong her life , so keep the old parts as emergency spares!
Hmm, double check the plastic guides are not worn badly inside the metal tray that’s between the two camshaft and the plastic guides going down to the crank , the annoying part of rebuilding the twins is making sure the timing is spot on and there is a correct number of chain links between the centers of the cam shafts at the top , when you spin the engine 10x , look at the edges of your cam shafts, you will see a deep dash ______ , it must be the same level as the cylinder head lever where the rubber gasket sits
or the front lobes will be facing away from each other at almost 100% horizontal and the rear lobes will try to form a triangle shape // \\ , it’s anotherway to check the cam shafts are spinning correctly so they are not hitting the tappets too soon or too late. Though the cartoon diagram of the manual does make it easy to follow.
Better to spin manually a few times than 1 single press on a starter motor = bent valve or hole’d in piston.
As for the rear cylinder, sometimes i use my fingers to feel how smooth it is compared to the old one (it is stupid as a jagged edge somewhere has cut me before) , then i know if it needs rehoning or not , sometimes i dress the wall in oil and see how much the piston moves before connecting to the crank , very odd way of doing things that i personally would not recommend, it’s trail and error that got me there.
Though i would say check your piston rings, incase each ring needs a gap away from the other
===_===
===_===
[oil control rings below]Instead of
==_==== [ring 1]
==== _ ==== [ring 2]
[oil control rings below]& You’re welcome , good to hear the tensioner trick worked! – one less for the swear jar!
smashing the traffic…
Yikes, you missed her lol.
That’s the automatic tensioner , as long as it has a curved tip , that’s the updated one (old ones with a flat tip were not good on the 250cc so much so Hyosung had to recall them) , that’s just a sidebar.
If you unwind it , it retracts back , keep unwinding to a full stop, it should stay there (any shake or rattle will make it go forward again) – Pulling back the tip allows easier insertion to the engine.
Once inside the engine, rotate the middle screw again towards the right (i believe clockwise?) so it comes out of its park position and shots forward to touch the chain guides , spin the crank a few times (10x) to confirm all is well and no valve has hit a piston (timings)
If not, you will have to replace those specific tensioners, new is always better
It has a thick o-ring which seals it hard for good reason , you will keep wiggling and pull it away from the cap , you might have some debris ingrained down there. I see the other injector is already out of its cap.
Have you tried something called BRADEX EASY START (if you google it) it may be at any local shop or find a product similar to it and spray the air filter (NOT the airbox) , just the actual filter itself, spray it wet , then quickly put it back inside safely , watch out for the pipes going to the fuel pump so they don’t break.
The bike must start on Gas induced air filter , if it screams for a split second, you have fueling issues.
Do you have a picture of this tensioner if possible ? so you can show us here.
I would not recommend using a manual tensioner whatsoever, the OEM tensioner is best as it is automatic.
Upload a picture of the harness , it will have a part code printed on it , usually means lifting the tank to see it and also upload a picture of the bike itself and the ECU on it.
Regards
My GT650R 2013 has the FI light and on the triple key it flashes 10-1-3-8. I only just worked out how to message. Can I plz get a little assistance to sort out the issue. Please, thank you and TA?
This topic was for the GT250 , you could start a new topic if you’re stuck but before you do that , go to the forum first and get the 650cc manuals we posted for download, I uploaded every 650 manual i could find, they usually explain the error codes for you.
RegardsThey are OK , you will get horrors 100% from owners who have been abused them to the ground, and they tell everyone else how bad the brand is. If anything,
– Michelin Tyres– E5 Fuel always
– Following the owners manual
All go a long way!
Other Improvements a rider can do to extend its life , fit a GT250 oil cooler, so the engine is less hot for long rides or heatwave summers.
The downside of the bikes are that you may need to hide dangling plugs away from the radiator so that muddy water doesn’t rot the contacts but a lot of owners keep chopping up looms and doing terrible patch work, so if you can find a bike from a dealer , you will have some kind of warranty with them
Change oil more often and use Motul 7100 oil, it will love you for it.
Brakes = Adding a 2nd disc and a 2nd caliper improves stopping power (just like its GT250 sisters)
It is a good idea to test ride one if possible and get a feel of it, if your gut tells you the bike feels wrong or abused , then trust your gut! or go to a dealer who will make sure it’s all checked out before you pay them (worst case , you return the bike and you get refunded by the dealer)
Go check it out in the flesh to trust your instincts , if you don’t mind projects that need work doing, then this will be a learning experience!
Usually the grey slider stays inside the connector and you press down to pull the plug out of the injector, though again like other connectors they need a careful approach so we don’t break the tabs (it is a good thing so they don’t vibrate out immediately when riding)
I Need Wiring diagram to fix my bugs.
Search manualsLib website , they have the most diagrams for the GV250 , also GV125 carb model is similar., good luck!
I’ll try to upload more manuals on the site when i get more time.Everything seems connected , what seems to be the issue ? although i see the last owner has put a custom white plug going to the rear lights.
You have a 3 plug CDI unit which is good, it is similar to the GT125, so look below
Needing a little help with my current project (+GT125 CDI PIN OUT)
GV250 = Some models have clutch switch but some early models do not use clutch switch , it was up to South Korea.
If you have a side-stand switch ===> Cut the side-stand switch at the side stand leg. Join the wires on the harness to bypass it, use electrical tape to hide this so naked wires are not exposed , then hide it far away from the road , so that water / dirt does not try to cause ingress.
Regards
Idling is controlled by the Idle Speed Control valve and check your TPS values is the same in the service manual too.
Take pictures and post them here showing us what plugs you are looking at , and we shall decipher what connects to what
GV carby will be simpler to wire up but also check GT250 carby manual as it is “similar” (both vtwins, both same carbs, both use twin clocks at the front and a cable driven speedo drive) , just the GV might have its wires different for the switch gears and rear lights etc.
