♠️ M77
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I explore the forum to see how to post some photos of my bike. I don’t find the technical section.
Forgot to mention this sorry, you can ofcourse make your own journal / picture thread in this section here
https://hyoriders.club/forums/forum/%f0%9f%9a%a6-hyoculture/
Ofcourse, just tag @hyoriders on instagram (if you have one) & social-media pictures appear here
Truthfully speaking? – There is a high chance the “125” crank-cases may not work out too well on the 250cc machine , also i know that 250 generally have bigger parts with better bearings for them also.
It’s a gamble, on your end!
Hey,
As Daniel says too, I have my suspicions on the regulator. How about this, what i’m about to say is direct of the workshop book I have been reading…
- Start the bike, Rev to 2.5 – 3,000 rpm. It “MUST” say 14.5 or over
Any 13v readings whatsoever = The regulator needs inspecting/replacing.
OEM rating = 14 – 15 (15v best) - What lights do you have ? – main headlight bulb must be 55w max (Some OLDER GV bikes need 35w instead)
- Depending on your model – If there is a “HYOSUNG” 30/20A relay on it, inspect that one too. I know it’s on ALL GTR bikes to power their dual lights.
- Battery will be 12.8volts when bike is OFF (charged)
- Switch on the bike -> Don’t start -> Put All lights on. The battery must not DROP by 1 volt. (12.8 dropping to 12.6 is normal)
Let us know how you get on!
Glad to hear you had spotted the other books, if there is anything missing just give us all a shout!
Who knows, you’ll be back on 2 wheels just before this summer break!
Hello Chelsea, welcome to the site!👋
I’ll start of by saying I always fancied a go on a norton bike, few years ago i was involved in a shed built cafe-racer type project. I had sold the honda anyway! fun times.
Aquila 250s are quite punchy & honest vtwins compared to the Ninja 250s (which Americans think its a fast bike haha). Congrats on your purchase, I would also look in servicing the whole bike myself if it was stood for sometime!
Fresh oil, fresh fuel, filters & the usual TLC goes many miles away.
For GV250 service books in PDF.
Have a look on this link below:Let me know if that book helps, I got many PDF files uploaded to the website. Still got more to do
Also GT250-EFi/Ei also shares the same engine as the Aquila250 so it uses the same electrics (in most places anyway)
Hey Daniel!
We are coming from the Facebook Group – UK Hyosung Owners club
https://facebook.com/groups/345623961212/
Join us there also (this is a few growing numbers of UK 650 Aquila owners now)
(It used to be a rare sight few years ago)This UK forum welcomes everyone from overseas, in fact just recently I noticed one more member from France, rides a GT Comet , will try to get his name. It’s Matt something lol.
As it’s a new forum, since last year Dec 2017, we hope you’re enjoy the stay. Also, for your bike, i have uploaded every single 650 pdf service book I can get. Check the technical section.
If there is something missing, just let us know!
PS. When i come to France one day, I hope a dealer is generous to let me hire a hyosung bike for holiday tour! 😉
What battery do you have ?
Commonly it’s the regulator that fails and is the mother of the bike’s electrical system.
Switch on the bike. Switch your meter to DC Volts. Rev up to 2000 – 3500 rpm
You should see 14.6v at least. The books for the GV engine state norminal running rate is 14 – 16v max.
Any 13v readings? The regulator is probably gone.
HT leads normally are ok & it’s insulator – Usually it’s the black coil itself, that goes out too. If you ask me, Coils & regulators are usually the biggest let downs on electrical side.
As for your fueling side. A good carb clean is handy always. I am going to publish an article that shows step-by-step Jet Swapping & some extra info for owners looking to self-maintain their carbs.
This question was asked before on the facebook group, so what i would say is this:
Idle Speed.
When the bike is warming up, set the idle to 17500
1550 is a bit weak in my opinion.Fuel system:
– Change up to 8mm fuel lines = This lets more fuel in the pipes to the carbs, so it’s less likely to starve off at high speed runs.
– Inspect your fuel filter , if it’s the factory small one. Upgrade a large filter the size of 2 golf balls (size wise)Even though the large filter will last probably 20K miles, the extra weight & fuel helps with gravity assist (that means fuel drains down faster from tank)
Standard grey lines on hyosungs last about 2yrs before needing to be changed, braided lines last many years.
Carburetors:
If you can, remove the carburators off the bike, then unscrew their “Float Bowls”
– Unscrew 2x Skinny Pilot Jets = They should be size 15 each & unclogged
– Unscrew 2x Main Jets = They should be 87.5 x 87.5 (identical) & clean then.Put a jet up in the air (away from the sunlight!). If it’s not clogged , your eyes will see a light through that hole.
You can use Carb Cleaner to clean the carbs.
Power tip = If you change your main jets to the following 90 Front & 90 Rear = This may use a bit extra fuel, but your bike will maintain top speeds much better.
Also, before putting the carbs back on the bike, put your fingers on the black-diagphragm slides. Push them inside & they must “retract/bounce-back” quickly.
If they get stuck at any point or are very slow to slide down. You may have some dirt inside the diapgrhams.
If screwdrivers fail, use mole grips and unscrew the TOP MUSHROOM COVERS of the carb (x8 screws again). Clean out the insides & make sure the diaphragm slides don’t have any particles clinged to them.
Once the carbs are back on the bike, it should run much better here on , also with the aid of improving the rest of the fuel system.
Your bike sounds starved a bit and isn’t getting what it needs at high gears
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Electrics
At 3,000 RPM = Battery should say “MINIMUM” 14v =
Any 13v readings means the regulator is probably gone, and wont cope with extra demands at high gear. Idling the bike doesn’t cause much stress to it.
Hyosung books state 14 – 15v as normal operating state.Coils
1. Get a multi meter & switch to KILO OHMS
2. RED wire of your meter = Inside the HT LEAD
3. Black wire of your meter = ON SPADE TERMINAL of the Coil
4. It should say 5.0 – 6.2K Ohms absolute maximum. Any more, the coil is failing or may cause weird behavior when it gets warm.Battery
12.8 Volts when it’s Off.I hope this helps , if you need extra help or pictures on anything , just let us know & I’ll post them up on here!
Welcome George!
Post some pics up when you get the bike running, it might just be featured on the instagram page (y) !
As this site is new for the UK (Since Nov 2017), there will be a lot happening behind the scenes to try & bring as many “UK” based suppliers on to the Forum so they can sell parts to customers directly. I will only bring legitimate vendors with physical UK stock.
The “Shop” page on this website, does have its own ebay shop for used parts too. If there is anything missing on here, it can be ordered express directly from Korea or Germany (Custom Orders).
While I don’t comment specifically or recommend a specific other “HyosungParts” websites simply because there has been a lot of mixed (mostly bad) reviews about them.Some of them are actually “not UK” lol.
If you’re on Facebook, & part of the Hyosung Owners Club group, follow this link & read what everyone else has been saying about other parts stores.
https://www.facebook.com/notes/uk-hyosung-owners-club/uk-parts-suppliers/10151446429816213/As for UK Dealers – Startright Leeds are one of the oldest hyosung dealer & always have stock & they use MotoGB-UK (a real UK importer/stockist) of parts to dealers & traders.
You can call them & they’ll be happy to help.Welcome to the site! By the way, if you’re not busy this August 2018, you can RSVP yourself to the 2nd 2018 Hyosung Meet & Ride, details below!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/345623961212/events/Gonna feature this on instagram shortly! –
I can also vouch for the frame being one of the strongest for a 125cc! – After being hit once by a female my older biker just warped itself,
But the hyos are definitely chunky to take a paddock stand slip up too lol.
Do like the front end though, it’s a new look compared to a typical bandit look lol.
Ride low with the clip ons 😉
The chain has been shot, so it’s time to replace it.
Also, go to your REAR sprocket. Imagine the sprocket as a time-watch, so at the 3PM mark.
Pull the chain with your hand away from the bike. If you see a GAP between the chain and sprocket. – That’s also telling you the chain is done.
Do you know how old it is and what brand it is ? – Usually the whole set is changed.
Yes 10w40 is used on the engines. As it’s almost summer time, using 10w-60 grade helps a bit more (the twins have a lot of moving parts inside 😉 )
I normally 15w50 then 10/40 when its winter time (it’s already cold out here!)
Silkolene & Motul do best!
Hey,
Welcome to the site! Mind you , it’s just been online since Dec 2017, bear with me while I hunt more of the 650 UK owners on this site.
There hasn’t been a forum in the UK for hyosungs in God knows how many years. Much of the GV650 owners I do some them posting up in the group on FB:
https://facebook.com/groups/345623961212/And a few spotted on @hyoriders instagram
If you had found this site sooner, you would know there was a UK meet for hyosung in March 2018. So you missed out on this one 😉
There is another meet happening again in August 2018 , details are on the facebook group , but I will also create a public topic about it on this site once details are finalised I think.
Excuse my late reply!
Hey, first of all.
It’s 1,000 miles old? Has the bike still got warranty on it ? – They must fix it , if the bike still has warranty. Especially after 600 miles, the bike is usually inspected fully. (1st service of a new model)
//
This information below applies if the bike doesn’t have warranty
& if not sure about this info, you can email me or have a mechanic come & inspect the bike.===============================
Does the bike crank at all? (spinning?)
If not, -> Fuse at rear seat (inspect) or Starter Motor Solenoid (do you hear clicks under seat?)As for carbs & fueling. – Have the carbs ever been opened since it was a new bike ?
A large filter does help keep the fuel much cleaner, so it’s less likely to gum up the carbs on the bike (the starting “jets” are really tiny!)
If the carbs are fouled, they can be removed off the bike – (after the fuel is drained from it) – then expose the “bottom of the carbs” float bowls. (8x screws)
A carb cleaner can be used to clean the jets if they get gummed up. (but a bit odd for a 1,000 mile to say the least!)
==========================================
Electrical test = Remove spark plug, then connect it against the FRAME or ENGINE (non – painted area!) – Switch on bike , leave in Neutral.
See if the spark plug sparks when cranking = testing if coils are working.
Repeat process for the rear coil too.
==============================================
Fuel system test (be warned)
There is a method where a carb can be disconnected from the “fuel pump” , then the HOSE PIPE from the pump is pointing to a bucket.
If the bike starts cranking = fuel must shoot out = Fuel system test.
==================================
Also inspect spark plugs too. “A brown coffee colour ring = fueling ok”
===================================Lastly, if the bike is not in warranty – Inspect the side stand switch (common fixes in the community involve bypassing it all together)
Gets funny on rainy days sometimes.
Last thing, check clutch switch. It would be last thing preventing the bike from starting from dead cold.
Hey,
Sorry I didn’t reply sooner. I’d say at least have you checked 2 things first >?:
- Wheel bearings (both sides) – They could be shot past their old age or need inspecting
- Swingarm spacers & bearings – Was the swingarm ever off the frame >?
Usually around 20k (in my opinion) is a good rule to check swingarm reed bearings.
Hey,
Sorry for the late reply, I shared your Wanted post on Facebook also.
I am still compiling a list on this website of all UK dealers (as i know some places aren’t doing a full range apparently now)
Can you also have a ring at Startrights Leeds ? They are the oldest hyosung dealer and can import pretty much most hyos. I’ve had to wait 2 weeks to get a new bike from spain (not a hyosung) but as for live example i have not seen one personally.
1 member on Facebook acquired an St7 this year. i’ve asked him about his local dealer. See if he replies back.
Checking HowManyLeftUK website shows end of 2017 , there is 20 ST7s on road, since 2016 , i see its gaining some traction.
More 650/ST7s the better in my eyes anyway!
Love it lol. About time i saw more and unique projects being undertaken.
Come on, not many of us convert to GTR easily, i’ll be watching 😀
Send me a message with your location details (address/zip code etc). There is one in Korea, but i need to calculate shipping.
or email me
This works on gt125r 08?
Yes remove the device and block the pipes going to it.
Only 2 things happen = The pops disappear and bike roars a little deeper & the engine/vacuum system has more energy (better throttle responses)
The device is just for emissions – engine doesn’t need it to run lol. If you see a GV250- 2002 it had none 😉
- Start the bike, Rev to 2.5 – 3,000 rpm. It “MUST” say 14.5 or over
