[How to Tutorial] Clutch Plates Upgrade Replacement for Hyosung GT GV125 GT250R GT125R GV250
- This topic has 11 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 1 year ago by
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Posts
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Learn how to change Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates on the GV125 / 250 Engines (GT/GV)
💥 NOTE! – SOAK YOUR CLUTCH PLATES IN OIL FOR 24HRS BEFORE DOING THIS! 💥
🛠Tools Needed
Size 8-10 “O-Spanner” Stubby Flat Screwdriver Allen Keys (if needed) Oil Drain Pan Size 15/17/19 Sockets Pliers or MoleGrips Rags Time Patience Optional 19mm socket/spanner for CNC Magnetic Oil Filler Cap
🎠Parts Replaced
Clutch Plates (fibre) Clutch Bearing Steel Clutch Discs Oil (1.5L) JASO MA2 Grade Oil Filter & O-Rings 💪 Skill Level = Anyone can do it, but if unsure, speak to a mechanic. (Follow this guide at your own risk)
âš Symptoms / Troubleshooting Hints
Always replace your clutch plates when you notice the following:
- Every 5000-6000 miles. Regardless (just like brake pads have a wear limit!)
- When you find yourself adjusting the clutch cable frequently.
- When gears feel notchy or hard to shift.
- When the bike slips during gear changes.
- Does your clutch basket “knock” during idle?
- Does the bike “rumble” when holding the clutch lever in?
- Acceleration is slower than before.
- Clutch seems to “slip” on hard acceleration.
🔧 Let’s fix it….
Technical Inspection (What to look for inside)
- Clutch Plate Thickness Limit = 2.6mm (New ones range from 3-4mm)
- Clutch Spring Free Length Limit = 36.2mm (Normal range 3.8 to 4.6mm)
- Deep grooves on the clutch basket? Time to replace entirely, or file gently if minimal wear.
- Silver clutch metal discs (separators) – 1mm distortion limit.
- Loud rattling sounds? Your clutch plates may be cracked and must be replaced immediately to avoid blocking oil passages.
- Clutch basket center nut must remain tight with its washer intact.
🚦 Let’s begin!!!
Park your bike, get your tools out, and start with the drain pan to drain oil first…
- Use either 15mm, 17mm, or 19mm socket to drain the oil:
- A. Clean the oil drain plug.
- B. Drain all the oil completely.
- C. Refit the plug.
- D. Tighten to a maximum of 15 ft.lbs (20 N.M) – torque wrench recommended. If unavailable, tighten until it feels snug.
🔥 BE WARNED! – THIS IS THE “DRAIN” PLUG (DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING ELSE UNDER THE BIKE)
Ready? Get the new clutch plates and discs out…
Remove the engine cover bolts in the blue circles. Remember where each bolt goes! Some bolts vary in size. 🔥 Be warned: leftover oil will spill out!
When you reach the oil filter rod, carefully remove it:
- Put two nuts on top of each other.
- Undo the second nut (the top one acts as a stopper).
- Continue unscrewing until the rod comes out entirely.
âš Note: Mole grips can be used with caution but may scratch the rod.
Don’t lose the O-Rings! There are 2: one for the cap, one inside the oil filter hole. Always replace O-rings & filter during oil or clutch work.
Use a stubby screwdriver to gently loosen the clutch cover, working from the bottom and then top near the oil cooler pipes. Carefully remove the cover.
🔥 NOTE: The gasket must be replaced with a new one. Old gaskets may tear.
Remove clutch bolts from top down gradually (25% each), then fully remove. This protects the clutch springs.
- Remove the front clutch hub facia plate and inspect underlying parts.
Inspect parts #10, #16, #17, #13 on the diagram.
Remove clutch plates one by one, remembering the order: First and last plates are always fibre. Steel discs go in between.
Fit back parts in this order: #13 → 17 → 16 → 9 → 10
Re-tighten clutch bolts: Start top 25%, then bottom left & right 25%, then remaining bolts to full torque. Max torque for clutch bolts = 5 ft.lbs (finger tight!).
- Max torque for clutch engine cover bolts: 5.5 ft.lbs (aluminium)
- Required oil: 2x 1L bottles (fill 1.6L) Oil change tutorial
- Use fresh oil, O-rings, filter, and gasket
- Record this event in a log or back of owner’s manual to track mileage and service history
👠Recommendation: Use high-quality 10W40 or 10W50 JASO MA2 ester oil. Avoid low-quality brands; Motul & Silkolene are best.
ðŸ Ride Safe! Any questions? Leave a comment below!
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trying to remove clutch cover on my 125GV…………. Instructions say
-
1. Go under the bike and tap slightly the “markerâ€Â in the blue circle (LEFT
PICTURE)
Can anyone tell me just where this is?…..under the bike?
Thanks all!!
-
Hey,
- Look at the blue arrows.  1 tab is at the top and 1 tab is under the bike (under the clutch-cover should i say!)
- Put a little screwdriver “behind” the tabs, and then tap them so that the clutch cover can wedge / pop off!
- Sometimes the “paper” gasket sticks hard, so the tabs help us use a mallet / rubber hammer etc… to tap the cover out of the bike.
Hope this info helps…Â Let me know!
-
-
-
All sorted and bike running beautiful. I had put the thrust bearing in wrong. Flat washer was meant to go on last behind the bearing washer.
Anyways all running well and like a new bike with all these modifications over the last 2 years.
I would definitely recommend putting a 520 chain kit and upgraded clutch in the bike.
A big thanks to my pal Marcel for all the guidance over the last 2 years while i upgraded this hyosung 125 gv aquila. Its been a long journey but worth it all as bike looks and feels like new even tho its a 2007 bike. Only thing left to upgrade is the cooler to a 250cc cooler.
Trevor
-
-
-
Hi everybody.
17 number (Thrust Bearing, Release HY -HY 09263H15001)
The two directions are different from each other. Does anyone know which point should be attached to which direction?
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
-
Hi everybody. 17 number (Thrust Bearing, Release HY -HY 09263H15001) The two directions are different from each other. Does anyone know which point should be attached to which direction?
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
The bearings on both sides are not the same, so I’ll take a close-up photo and upload it. I took a video while disassembling it, and I can see its orientation there.
The inward-facing surface, which fits the shaft, is slightly rounded. The outward-facing surface, which fits the washer, is sharper.
Those who can’t find engine gaskets in their country or region can do the same as I did. You can buy a sheet of klingird casket and carefully cut the gasket yourself.
-
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
The bearing is the same on both sides. I took a video while disassembling it, so I can see its orientation.
The rounder side is the inward-facing surface that fits the shaft. The outward-facing surface that fits the washer is sharper.
Those who can’t find engine gaskets in their country or region can do the same as I did. You can buy a sheet of klingird casket and carefully cut the gasket yourself.
-
-
I’d been experiencing clutch problems with my GV 250 for a while. When the engine wasn’t running, the gears shifted smoothly, but once the engine was running, shifting became extremely difficult.
I removed the clutch plates and measured their thickness. The platens on the clutch basket had left slight marks, so I lightly sanded them to prevent them from binding.
After reassembling the system, I observed that when I squeezed the lever, the outermost platen separated from the basket, but the clutch plate and plates stuck together and didn’t separate.
I removed the plates and plates again, cleaned them thoroughly with brake pad spray, and dried them. I placed a glass window on the table and placed 240-grit sandpaper on the glass. I laid the clutch plates horizontally on the sandpaper and slowly sanded both surfaces.
The clutch plates were 2.9 mm thick. I cleaned and dried them again with brake pad spray and compressed air.
I also lightly sanded the clutch metal sheets using the same method with 400-grit sandpaper. My goal was to reduce the vacuum and sticking effect between the plates and the sheets.
I reassembled the system, added oil, and started the engine. The gears are much smoother than before. I’m happy with it so far, and I wanted to let anyone know if they’re experiencing similar issues.
One more thing:
It was quite difficult to find neutral between 1st and 2nd gears. I wanted to remove and check the neutral cam stopper shaft and spring. When I removed the plug, I found the spring was missing.
I think someone thought it was an oil plug during a previous oil change, removed it, drained the oil, and forgot to put the spring back. I installed a suitable spring, and now 1N and 2N gears are perfect.
-
- You cannot reply to this topic.
- This topic has 11 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 1 year ago by .
-
Posts
-
-
Learn how to change Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates on the GV125 / 250 Engines (GT/GV)
💥 NOTE! – SOAK YOUR CLUTCH PLATES IN OIL FOR 24HRS BEFORE DOING THIS! 💥
🛠Tools Needed
Size 8-10 “O-Spanner” Stubby Flat Screwdriver Allen Keys (if needed) Oil Drain Pan Size 15/17/19 Sockets Pliers or MoleGrips Rags Time Patience Optional 19mm socket/spanner for CNC Magnetic Oil Filler Cap
🎠Parts Replaced
Clutch Plates (fibre) Clutch Bearing Steel Clutch Discs Oil (1.5L) JASO MA2 Grade Oil Filter & O-Rings 💪 Skill Level = Anyone can do it, but if unsure, speak to a mechanic. (Follow this guide at your own risk)
âš Symptoms / Troubleshooting Hints
Always replace your clutch plates when you notice the following:
- Every 5000-6000 miles. Regardless (just like brake pads have a wear limit!)
- When you find yourself adjusting the clutch cable frequently.
- When gears feel notchy or hard to shift.
- When the bike slips during gear changes.
- Does your clutch basket “knock” during idle?
- Does the bike “rumble” when holding the clutch lever in?
- Acceleration is slower than before.
- Clutch seems to “slip” on hard acceleration.
🔧 Let’s fix it….
Technical Inspection (What to look for inside)
- Clutch Plate Thickness Limit = 2.6mm (New ones range from 3-4mm)
- Clutch Spring Free Length Limit = 36.2mm (Normal range 3.8 to 4.6mm)
- Deep grooves on the clutch basket? Time to replace entirely, or file gently if minimal wear.
- Silver clutch metal discs (separators) – 1mm distortion limit.
- Loud rattling sounds? Your clutch plates may be cracked and must be replaced immediately to avoid blocking oil passages.
- Clutch basket center nut must remain tight with its washer intact.
🚦 Let’s begin!!!
Park your bike, get your tools out, and start with the drain pan to drain oil first…
- Use either 15mm, 17mm, or 19mm socket to drain the oil:
- A. Clean the oil drain plug.
- B. Drain all the oil completely.
- C. Refit the plug.
- D. Tighten to a maximum of 15 ft.lbs (20 N.M) – torque wrench recommended. If unavailable, tighten until it feels snug.
🔥 BE WARNED! – THIS IS THE “DRAIN” PLUG (DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING ELSE UNDER THE BIKE)Ready? Get the new clutch plates and discs out…
Remove the engine cover bolts in the blue circles. Remember where each bolt goes! Some bolts vary in size. 🔥 Be warned: leftover oil will spill out!
When you reach the oil filter rod, carefully remove it:
- Put two nuts on top of each other.
- Undo the second nut (the top one acts as a stopper).
- Continue unscrewing until the rod comes out entirely.
âš Note: Mole grips can be used with caution but may scratch the rod.
Don’t lose the O-Rings! There are 2: one for the cap, one inside the oil filter hole. Always replace O-rings & filter during oil or clutch work.
Use a stubby screwdriver to gently loosen the clutch cover, working from the bottom and then top near the oil cooler pipes. Carefully remove the cover.
🔥 NOTE: The gasket must be replaced with a new one. Old gaskets may tear.Remove clutch bolts from top down gradually (25% each), then fully remove. This protects the clutch springs.
- Remove the front clutch hub facia plate and inspect underlying parts.
Inspect parts #10, #16, #17, #13 on the diagram.
Remove clutch plates one by one, remembering the order: First and last plates are always fibre. Steel discs go in between.
Fit back parts in this order: #13 → 17 → 16 → 9 → 10
Re-tighten clutch bolts: Start top 25%, then bottom left & right 25%, then remaining bolts to full torque. Max torque for clutch bolts = 5 ft.lbs (finger tight!).
- Max torque for clutch engine cover bolts: 5.5 ft.lbs (aluminium)
- Required oil: 2x 1L bottles (fill 1.6L) Oil change tutorial
- Use fresh oil, O-rings, filter, and gasket
- Record this event in a log or back of owner’s manual to track mileage and service history
👠Recommendation: Use high-quality 10W40 or 10W50 JASO MA2 ester oil. Avoid low-quality brands; Motul & Silkolene are best.
ðŸ Ride Safe! Any questions? Leave a comment below!
-
trying to remove clutch cover on my 125GV…………. Instructions say
-
1. Go under the bike and tap slightly the “markerâ€Â in the blue circle (LEFT
PICTURE)
Can anyone tell me just where this is?…..under the bike?
Thanks all!!
-
Hey,
- Look at the blue arrows.  1 tab is at the top and 1 tab is under the bike (under the clutch-cover should i say!)
- Put a little screwdriver “behind” the tabs, and then tap them so that the clutch cover can wedge / pop off!
- Sometimes the “paper” gasket sticks hard, so the tabs help us use a mallet / rubber hammer etc… to tap the cover out of the bike.
Hope this info helps…Â Let me know!
-
-
-
All sorted and bike running beautiful. I had put the thrust bearing in wrong. Flat washer was meant to go on last behind the bearing washer.
Anyways all running well and like a new bike with all these modifications over the last 2 years.
I would definitely recommend putting a 520 chain kit and upgraded clutch in the bike.
A big thanks to my pal Marcel for all the guidance over the last 2 years while i upgraded this hyosung 125 gv aquila. Its been a long journey but worth it all as bike looks and feels like new even tho its a 2007 bike. Only thing left to upgrade is the cooler to a 250cc cooler.
Trevor
-
-
-
Hi everybody.
17 number (Thrust Bearing, Release HY -HY 09263H15001)
The two directions are different from each other. Does anyone know which point should be attached to which direction?
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
-
Hi everybody. 17 number (Thrust Bearing, Release HY -HY 09263H15001) The two directions are different from each other. Does anyone know which point should be attached to which direction?
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
The bearings on both sides are not the same, so I’ll take a close-up photo and upload it. I took a video while disassembling it, and I can see its orientation there.
The inward-facing surface, which fits the shaft, is slightly rounded. The outward-facing surface, which fits the washer, is sharper.
Those who can’t find engine gaskets in their country or region can do the same as I did. You can buy a sheet of klingird casket and carefully cut the gasket yourself.
-
Bearing is identical on both sides , unless previous owner put the wrong bearing ?
The bearing is the same on both sides. I took a video while disassembling it, so I can see its orientation.
The rounder side is the inward-facing surface that fits the shaft. The outward-facing surface that fits the washer is sharper.
Those who can’t find engine gaskets in their country or region can do the same as I did. You can buy a sheet of klingird casket and carefully cut the gasket yourself.
-
-
I’d been experiencing clutch problems with my GV 250 for a while. When the engine wasn’t running, the gears shifted smoothly, but once the engine was running, shifting became extremely difficult.
I removed the clutch plates and measured their thickness. The platens on the clutch basket had left slight marks, so I lightly sanded them to prevent them from binding.
After reassembling the system, I observed that when I squeezed the lever, the outermost platen separated from the basket, but the clutch plate and plates stuck together and didn’t separate.
I removed the plates and plates again, cleaned them thoroughly with brake pad spray, and dried them. I placed a glass window on the table and placed 240-grit sandpaper on the glass. I laid the clutch plates horizontally on the sandpaper and slowly sanded both surfaces.
The clutch plates were 2.9 mm thick. I cleaned and dried them again with brake pad spray and compressed air.
I also lightly sanded the clutch metal sheets using the same method with 400-grit sandpaper. My goal was to reduce the vacuum and sticking effect between the plates and the sheets.
I reassembled the system, added oil, and started the engine. The gears are much smoother than before. I’m happy with it so far, and I wanted to let anyone know if they’re experiencing similar issues.
One more thing:
It was quite difficult to find neutral between 1st and 2nd gears. I wanted to remove and check the neutral cam stopper shaft and spring. When I removed the plug, I found the spring was missing.
I think someone thought it was an oil plug during a previous oil change, removed it, drained the oil, and forgot to put the spring back. I installed a suitable spring, and now 1N and 2N gears are perfect.
-
- You cannot reply to this topic.