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Learn how to change Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates on the GV125 / 250 Engines (GT/GV)
💥 NOTE! – SOAK YOUR CLUTCH PLATES IN OIL FOR 24HRS BEFORE DOING THIS! 💥
🛠 Tools needed ::
Size 8-10 “O-Spanner” Stubby Flat Screwdriver Allen Keys
(if needed)Oil DrainPan Size 15/17/19 Sockets Pliers or
MoleGripsRags Time Patience Optional 19mm socket/spanner for CNC Magnetic Oil Filler Cap
🎁Parts Replaced ::
Clutch Plates (fibre) Clutch Bearing Steel Clutch Discs Oil (1.5L)
JASO MA2 GradeOil Filter & O-Rings 💪Skill Level = Anyone can do it, but if unsure, speak to a mechanic. (Take this guide with your risk)
⚠ Symptoms / Troubleshooting Hints …
Always replace your clutch plates when you notice the following:- every 5000 – 6000 miles. Regardless. (just like “brake pads” have a wear limit!)
- when you see your self adjusting clutch line frequently.
- when gears feel notchy / hard.
- when bike slips up during gear changes.
- Does your “Clutch” basket have any “knocking” feel during idle ?
- Does your bike “rumble” when you hold the clutch lever in?
- not as fast as before (acceleration wise)
- Clutch seems to “slip” on hard acceleration
🔧 Let’s fix it….
Technical Inspection (What to look for inside…)
- Clutch Plate Thickness Limit = 2.6mm (New ones range from 3-4mm)
- Clutch Spring Free Length Limit = 36.2mm (Normal range is 3.8 to 4.6mm)
- See any deep grooves on the Clutch Basket?
Time to replace it entirely! – This applies to some bikes after 13-20K miles of their life regardless.
or if the damage is very minimal, gently file it until it’s smooth.
- Silver Clutch Metal Discs (separators) – 1mm distortion limit.
- Loud Rattling Sounds on the clutch cover?
(your clutch plates *may* have cracked in pieces)
(Must replace them ASAP as these things can block oil passages inside or worse!) - Clutch basket center nut must remail tight with its washer intact.
🚦 Let’s begin!!!
Park your bike , get your tools out. Start with the drain pan…. Drain Oil 1st…
- Get either “15mm / 17mm / 19mm” Socket , go under the bike and drain the oil.
A. Clean the Oil Drain Plug
B. Once the oil is 100% drained.
C. Fit the plug back inside.
D. Tighten to a maximum of “15 Foot Pounds” (or 20 N.M) (Torque Wrench Value)
If you don’t have a “Torque” wrench. Then just tighten your nut UNTIL you yourself know when it feels tight enough!
- 🔥 BE WARNED! – THIS IS THE “DRAIN” PLUG
(DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING ELSE UNDER)
- Ready? Get the NEW clutch plates & discs out…
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In the blue circles^, remove the engine cover bolts.
Remember where each bolt goes! – Some of them vary in size.
🔥 Be warned, left over oil will spill out!
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When you reach the oil filter – Be warned, that the rod goes all the way in to the engine.
So the quickest way to remove the rod safely is to:
1. Put 2 nuts on top of each other.
2. Undo the 2nd nut…. (the TOP #1 nut is a “stopper”)
3. Undo the 2nd nut until the rod comes out entirely.
🔥 NOTE – in some cases , a pair of mole grips can undo the stud with some force – but it may scratch the bar!
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Don’t Lose the O-Rings for the filter cover!
(there is 1 for the cap & 1 INSIDE the oil filter hole. = 2x rings.) (Ps. Its not blood^ but red oil! 😉 )
⚠It is always recommended to replace o-rings & filter “whenever” there is an oil change job or clutch changes..
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Once all the engine clutch cover bolts are removed….
Use a stubby tool like a small screw driver…
1. Go under the bike and tap slightly the “marker” in the blue circle (^LEFT PICTURE)
2. Once the cover splits – Go to the TOP of the clutch cover.
3. Near the oil cooler pipes, put the screwdriver or a blunt knife to twitch the cover (towards you)
4. Now, we have some movement…
5. Remove the clutch cover!
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🔥 NOTE! = The “gasket” must be removed and replaced with a new one
(Sometimes old gaskets may tear off!).
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Now your clutch system is exposed.
Get size 8 O-Spanner & take the bolts out…
From top down….
Undo => Top Bolt 25% out => Bottom Left 25% => Bottom Right 25%
We now have 3 bolts undone slightly => now undo the rest 100% (take em out)
Then remove the last 3 bolts – This method protects the clutch springs.
- Remove: front clutch hub facia plate cover and investigate the parts below (just inspect them)
Parts => #10 , #16 , #17 , #13 on this diagram above^ (Inspect those numbered parts)
Take out your plates one-by-one … this is very important…
Remember the ORDER of each plate
‼Hint: The last plate is always “Fibre” & the FIRST plate is always “Fibre”
‼Hint: STEEL DISCS (Seperators) go in between.
Done?
⚠ Use the SAME ORDER to fit your new plates! Or use the diagram below…
Then fit back the other parts in the diagram above^
These numbers are the parts in diagram above^ #13 => 17 => 16 => 9 => 10
This is the ORDER of fitting them….
It’s time to tighten it!
Remember start from the TOP 25% screwed in => then bottom left & right 25% each respectively => Then maximum (100%) on the remaining 2 => The first x3 bolts , 100% also.This method is to apply equal pressure everywhere to protect the clutch springs. Hyosung books also mention the criss-cross star style of fastening bolts.
🔥NOTE = A CLUTCH BOLT IS HIGHLY SENSITIVE TO OVER TIGHTENING.
ALL CLUTCH BOLTS => MAX TORQUE 5 FT LBS (FINGER TIGHT!)
A torque wrench really helps!
or else Tighten with 2 fingers (and that’s tight enough)
Last not, least – Close the clutch cover. Top up your bike with oil.
Remember these points below…
- MAX Torque for “clutch engine cover boltd” – 5.5 ft.lbs
(It’s made of aluminium)
- Required Oil = 2x 1L Bottles
(Fill up 1.6L of oil)
Tap this blue link here for a tutorial of oil change
- Use fresh Oil, O-Rings , Filter & Gasket.
- Record this event in a book somewhere or back of owners manual – This creates a log of your work & record mileage
👍 Recommendation = Make sure your oil is marked 10w40/10w50 JASO MA2 ESTER – Nothing upsets these v twins than running junk overhyped (yes, over-hyped) castrol oil , (Many small parts in a hot small v twin!)- That tells you all you need to know – Good oil is a MUST. Motul & Silkolene are best.
🏍 Ride Safe! Any questions hit the comments below!
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
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trying to remove clutch cover on my 125GV…………. Instructions say
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1. Go under the bike and tap slightly the “marker” in the blue circle (LEFT
PICTURE)
Can anyone tell me just where this is?…..under the bike?
Thanks all!!
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Hey,
- Look at the blue arrows. 1 tab is at the top and 1 tab is under the bike (under the clutch-cover should i say!)
- Put a little screwdriver “behind” the tabs, and then tap them so that the clutch cover can wedge / pop off!
- Sometimes the “paper” gasket sticks hard, so the tabs help us use a mallet / rubber hammer etc… to tap the cover out of the bike.
Hope this info helps… Let me know!
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
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Im having trouble after fitting new upgraded clutch on my hyosung gv 125cc aquila.
When i go from neutral to 1st gear bike still feels its in neutral. Back wheel goes round a few times then stops and can move freely like neutral?
All gears are the same like still in neutral.
Regards Trevor
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All sorted and bike running beautiful. I had put the thrust bearing in wrong. Flat washer was meant to go on last behind the bearing washer.
Anyways all running well and like a new bike with all these modifications over the last 2 years.
I would definitely recommend putting a 520 chain kit and upgraded clutch in the bike.
A big thanks to my pal Marcel for all the guidance over the last 2 years while i upgraded this hyosung 125 gv aquila. Its been a long journey but worth it all as bike looks and feels like new even tho its a 2007 bike. Only thing left to upgrade is the cooler to a 250cc cooler.
Trevor
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GTR
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