Learn how to change Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates on the GV125 / 250 Engines (GT/GV)
💥 NOTE! – SOAK YOUR CLUTCH PLATES IN OIL FOR 24HRS BEFORE DOING THIS! 💥
Tools needed :: Size 8-10 Spanner / Stubby FLAT screw driver / Allen Key (if needed) / Oil Drain Pan / Size (15/17/19) socket/wrench for oil drain plug / mole grip (for the top oil filler cap) or socket for cnc plugs.
Parts replaced :: Clutch Fibre Plates (mandatory) / Clutch Bearing / Steel Discs / Oil / Oil Filter
Skill level = Anyone can do it, but if unsure, speak to a mechanic. (Take this guide with your risk)
- Symptoms / Back Stories ….
Always replace your clutch plates when you notice the following:
- every 5000 or 6000 miles. Regardless. (just like “BRAKE PADS” have a wear limit!!)
- when you see your self adjusting clutch line frequently.
- when gears feel notchy / hard.
- when bike slips up during gear changes.
- Does your “Clutch” basket have any “knocking” feel during idle ?
- Does your bike “rumble” when you hold the clutch lever in ? (Rarely)
- not as fast as before (acceleration wise)
- Clutch seems to “slip” on hard acceleration (What’s going on there?)
- Let’s fix it….
Technical Inspection (What to look for inside…)
- Clutch Plate thickness LIMIT = 2.6mm (New ones range from 3-4mm)
- Clutch Spring FREE LENGTH LIMIT = 36.2mm (Normal range is 3.8 to 4.6mm)
- See ANY DEEP grooves on the CLUTCH BASKET?
Time to replace it entirely! – This applies to some bikes after 10K miles of their life regardless.
- Silver Clutch plate discs (separators) – 1mm distortion limit.
- Loud Rattling Sounds on the clutch cover?
(your clutch plates have exploded or cracked in pieces)
(Must replace them ASAP as these things will BLOCK oil passages inside!)
- Park your bike , get your tools out. Start with the drain pan…. Drain Oil 1st…
- Get either “15mm / 17mm / 19mm” Socket , go under the bike and drain the oil.
2. Clean the Oil PLUG!
3. Once the oil is 100% drained.
4. Fit the plug back inside.
5. Tighten to a maximum of “15 Foot Pounds” (or 20 N.M) (Torque Wrench Value)
If you don’t have a “Torque” wrench. Then just tighten your nut UNTIL you yourself know when it feels tight enough!🔥 BE WARNED! – THIS IS THE “DRAIN” PLUG (DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING ELSE UNDER)
- Ready? Get the NEW clutch plates / discs out…
In the blue circles , remove the engine cover bolts.
Remember where each bolt goes! – Some of them vary in size.
🔥Be warned! – OIL WILL SPILL OUT. (Left overs)
When you reach the oil filter – Be warned, that the rod goes all the way in to the engine.
So the quickest way to remove the rod safely is to:
1. Put 2 nuts on top of each other.
2. Undo the 2nd nut…. (the TOP #1 nut is a “stopper”)
3. Undo the 2nd nut until the rod comes out entirely.
🔥 Be warned – Some cases , a pair of mole grips can undo the stud with some force – but will leave scars!
Don’t Lose the O-Rings! (there 1 for the cap & 1 INSIDE the oil filter hole.)(2x rings.)
It is always recommended to replace o-rings “whenever” there is an oil change job or clutch changes.
Once all the bolts are removed….Use a stubby tool like a small screw driver…
1. Go under the bike and tap slightly the “marker” in the blue circle (LEFT PICTURE)
2. Once the cover , splits – Go to the TOP of the clutch cover.
3. Near the oil cooler pipes , put the screwdriver or a blunt steel knife to twitch the cover (towards you)
4. Now, we have some movement…
5. Remove the clutch cover!
🔥 WARNING = The “gasket” must be removed and replaced with a new one. Regardless.
Now your clutch system is exposed. Get size 8 Spanner & take the bolts out…
From top down….
Undo — > Top Bolt 25% out , Bottom Left 25% , Bottom Right 25%
We now have 3 bolts undone slightly , now undo the rest 100% (take em out)
Then remove the last 3 bolts – This method protects the clutch springs.
- Remove: front clutch hub and investigate the parts below (inspection)
Take out your plates one-by-one … this is very important…
Remember the ORDER of each plate
Hint: The last plate is always “Fibre” & the FIRST plate is always “Fibre”
Hint: STEEL separaters go in between.
Use the SAME ORDER to fit your new plates! Use the diagram below…
Then –> #13 –> 17 – > 16 -> 9 -> 10 = This is the ORDER….
It’s time to tighten it! – Remember start from the TOP 25% screwed in, then bottom left & right 25% each respectively. Then maximum on the remaining 2. The first x3 bolts , 100% also.
This method is to apply equal pressure everywhere to protect the clutch springs. Hyosung book’s also mention the criss-crossing star style of fastening bolts.
WARNING! = A CLUTCH BOLT IS HIGHLY SENSITIVE TO OVER TIGHTENING. – ALL CLUTCH BOLTS = MAX TORQUE 5 FT LBS (FINGER TIGHT!)
Tighten with 2 fingers (that’s tight enough)
- Last not , least – Close the clutch cover. Top up your bike with oil.Remember these points
- MAX Torque for “all engine covers” – 5.5 ft.lbs (It’s made of aluminium)
- Required Oil = 2x 1L Bottles (Fill up 1.6L of oil)
- Use fresh :: Oil , O-Rings , Filter & Gasket.
- Record this event in a book somewhere or back of owners manual – This creates a log of your work & record mileage (also proves how long each part lasts 😉 )
Make sure your oil is marked 10w40/15w50 JASO MA2 ESTER – Nothing upsets these v twins than running crude oil , I’ve never seen so many BEARINGS in a small v twin! )- That tells you all you need to know – Good oil is a MUST.
See that clutch? Why are you pouring oil through there first ? 😉 –
🏁 Ride Safe! Any questions hit me below!
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
- Symptoms / Back Stories ….
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