♠️ M77
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It says on G Drive “You need access” , maybe set it to public share link ?
Don’t get me started on mixtures either, it’s something i constantly have to deal with in my own workshop sorting customer carbs. Takes more of my labour time than doing valve clearances!
Have you tipped the swear jar so your wallet fills back up again ? 😄
Take a look at this topic , it has a lot of info that might help, (I hope!)
If its 4 pins , same relay is used and typically it stays at the rear seat area and 3pin socket is for indicators.
The carb below is the one quoted in the spec sheet for the 250cc – PD26J. The clone of the Honda 250 rebel carb. Looks very similar to the Hyosung carbs.
How can I send PMs in this forum?
Thank you.
We did have the PM system before , but because of AI on the scene, I locked it down to stop guys getting silly PMs of AI Robot girlfriends and Ai gold diggers trying to get past this site, so I will figure it out one of these days. Though if publicly one has asked Rider 1 on his forum to contact me to send an email to Rider 2 , then i will facilitate the email exchange, it’s not ideal! but it’s one way around it temporarily – I don’t like adding “are you human , solve this complicated puzzle before sending this message etc” like you see on the contact form , I want less friction for everyone , not more of it. bare with me!
Honda Rebel carbs , nope, but some HAS made their own welded custom manifolds on a GV cruiser with a custom airbox , and made it in such a way that the carbs hang at the side of the bike (almost) and used keihin flat sides, this was many years ago, so can’t find the post on social media. I thought to myself, ahhh narr , I will just get another OEM set and rebuild it patiently! – carbs take too much of my workshop time but i will always choose them over 30+ EFi electronics i need to stay paranoid about.
Cost of living on the world isn’t going to make a rider fork out £1500 for an engine, they would get a whole bike for that! – 50+ units could work for a dealer though if they have a fleet of bikes and need spare engines for their customers in their workshops.
if the intake manifolds are 2016 = made in china, very poor quality even OEM ones! , if the intake pipe is 2008 , much better and made in South Korea. I don’t have too much faith in China lol.
Hyosung has used a few chinese companies to replicate their older GV engines + Parts for the Asia market, so you will find the updated chinese/korean engine updated as “GV250-DR” , they definitely stopped making GT parts , so their main focus is GV bikes. Hyosung KR Motors owns a chinese company thats even cloning their Korean 650cc for the updated GV650 ABS model that is already out in europe.
If you strip a 2016 black engine, of a 125cc, you will see under the barrels , it will say “made in china” but other parts + R&D is still South Korea.
China is just wild , they even call Hyosung a different name over there!
would that be an EFi or carb model (Carb models got sold until 2010 but EFi started in 2008 = So its a transitory gap hence we ask)
What work has been done to the bike so far to try overhaul it ?
Not something that is usually uploaded here, so you might need to buy a spare ECU to download data off of it.
Can you attach a picture showing / marking the areas where you see the leaks ?
yes ofcourse, we got your email and responded to it!
Happy bank holiday!
Have you checked everything else mentioned in my previous comments ? – You either have compression issue or carb issue (explained above) or electric
Go halfords and buy the yellow “bradex” easy-start , spray the air filter for 10 seconds, put it back on the airbox or spray inside the airbox – Make sure the airbox is on and secured (harder to start without it properly)
Full choke, crank and let it scream to life , then see if the carbs will run on choke for 5mins, then slowly turn the choke off
If it dies, let us know – Also check if both cylinders are hot if its running on choke?
you either have fueling issues from a clogged tap, clogged pump , (yes new parts can get clogged up if the tank has debris) or the carbs need attention (likely “Starter Jet” that is permanent is clogged, pilot jets clogged up) or even the carb passages (every hole in the carb) is clogged
Or you will need to check your intake manifolds, and replace their O-RINGS if there is micro leaks under there causing a loss vacuum to open the pump / carb isn’t being utilized properly by the engine due to vacuum loss)
Check spark plugs if they are wet ? (fuel is entering engine, therefore it should spark and start)
No need for a new caliper if you can check out the shop above ^ for the stainless rebuild kits.
Speed Sensor = ebay (you will find it there as we listed it) just type “Speed Sensor Hyosung GT” , it will be the electric one.
Fuel Sensor = Same thing, its on ebay .
Tyre – We have a michelin rear tyre that is good to go, send us an email below
Hyosung has likely moved on to newer production pistons, so they don’t really make the old type anymore. Hence it is good to get a piston + matching cylinder. Even their Japan GV250DRA 2026 uses 57mm pistons now
If you don’t see it on this forum, check manualsLIB website it has the biggest database of manuals for most bikes. New cylinders will fit your 2001 , just get pistons with it or check ebay for used pistons & cylinders
The float part number is the digital version that is used on the 650cc but the extra wire is overkill , likely for (warning) , these are very rare , as Hyosung is using 2 pins since 2004, their newest GV125-S EFi model 125cc is 2 pins and is using a float arm. (much better) than the rare stick version you see in pics.
You should be able to find a gasket for the fuel sender on ebay incase you go back to the 2 pin version, I suspect the last owners got desparate and used the old old 650 3pin version.
All EFi 250/650 use the float arm that moves up & down with 2 pins. For some people, they use the ODO Trip Meter to count the miles before filling up again if the fuel gauge isn’t working. Hell some older suzuki bikes did not have a fuel gauge. So it was a luxury thing for Hyosung since their GA Cruise 2 125cc days & made sure other future models always have it. Bikes without it i know and owned in the flesh was the supermotos/enduros (RT125/RX125)
I suppose with your 3pin version being rare as it is, you wont worry about a float breaking off , as its all digitized (and yes some GT650 still used analogue style clocks before the LCD era after 2005+) , you just have to figure out wiring on retrofitting some gauge you have either a suzuki one or aftermarket gauge, and expect to read OHMS for each wire and study yourself how much fuel is in tank and what ohms it is, and see if that registers on the whichever dash you’re using. I have not seen these fuel gauge values in the manuals yet. Aftermarket Senders ? = Custom work for yourself , I don’t really use them as my bikes still use their OEM clocks , i prefer the OEM senders, (despite them being optimistic at times) , i do a lot of motorway distance trips. Not every stop has E5 , so will need to travel further to fill up sometimes.
Would you be able to record this inside the garage (so that there is no wind noise) and point to it (ie, your finger is showing where the loudest sound is) . Upload it to GoogleDrive/DropBox etc , get a public share link to post on this forum, i could try to suspect what it is
Hyosung only uses 2 wires for every fuel sensor they make (any model) , its always a grey-black wire and yellow-black wire (or just yellow ish) for fuel level. Not clued up on bandit clocks there, so you have to check Gixxer forums for clock wiring diagrams , that includes the speed sensor.
125/250 do not use oil level lights or temp gauge , it’s turned off the chip and no wires for it in the harness or even ports for it on the engine.
Only 250 EFi gets Temp Sensor in front head strictly tells the ECU (not the rider) so you will never know what temp the engine is, you have to go custom route there yourself.
650cc hyos are the ones who get user-displayed temp sensor as there is fan & switches around the radiator and thermostat. No oil level indicator , just manually checking the sight glass instead.
Would i be correct to say it sounds like an Ak47 in slow motion and where is the sound most loudest ? which exact part of the engine ? – Seems to be idling eneven, so also check your spark plugs incase one cylinder isnt burning properly
If the engine is cold, start it and put your hand on it and see if you feel anything that suggests something is banging against the walls ?
I am not able to decipher the video properly but my guess so far would be either clutch basket or top end
or one cylinder isn’t burning properly (causing uneven running?) – I haven’t even addressed the carbs yet (it will be the last thing unless plugs are pure white clean = no fuel in that cylinder)
Worst case scenario is that i really , really hope it is just a time to do valve clearances (if they were too loose , you would also get that Ak47 sound but usually happens at higher revs)
