♠️ M77
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Why not get the GV125 and fully rebuild it from the ground up even cosmetically because here in the UK, they always sell around £2000 mark but usually no less than £1000 if its tatty (cosmetically rought) but bike works as it should.
I would tell the seller the bike is worth £250 in my eyes, a rusty tank is not good but depending how bad it is , i won’t be able to say now if its worth trying to save it (taking rust off by chemical means) or buying another used copy tank but repaint it. etc.
I suppose if the batter is accessed and the carb was cleaned (ultrasonic bath etc), change oil immediately of the bike, then new plugs, see if fires up to life.
I do agree the GV125 is chunky for what it is , but ofcourse same body as the bigger GV250 sister. The GV650 is much bigger.
If you dare ? Get the GV125 and work on it. And use the Yamaha as a pleasure or commute bike for the time being, it will fetch some money back when its time to sell it.
As per Simon.
If the situation is serious send a PM or email , as we’re in Yorkshire already so we may try fix the bike.
But for sake of simple tasks , it’s better and costs nothing if you do it yourself patiently.
When cranking the bike, does the RPM needle move ? or stuck at dead zero ?
I will try to find one for you during the week at my workshop for you!
Hi sorry I can’t seem to put a picture on. Sprocket with smooth side facing away from the engine. I did use impact driver with no chain when removing Sprocket could that have moved something. It turns over fine just no spark.
Try the replies me and simon have mentioned and report back if you checked those electric parts.
The “Hump” of the sprocket should be facing you as this is the correct orientation and the flat-side of the sprocket should face the crank case wall towards the clutch cover.
If you can’t get a picture in, just let us know what error the site makes or what it’s doing so i can make it better 😉 even what phone/pc is being used.
Good luck, you got this! – Remember it turns yes, but things that me and simon talked about are what’s cutting sparks off , unless you have a deeper issue but basics above ^ first and let us know.
If its a barn find, it will mean straight away an ultrasonic clean of the carb and do check the tank doesnt have rust inside , and as safety measure , replace the fuel tap too.
MPG wise i would say the 125 will have a slighly better MPG than a carby 250 does due fact less piston size , and lesser jetting but still lives high rpm life>
ie. 10k revs in 3rd gear for 40mph in 125cc, the 250 would achieve that in less reves, just an example (not accurate, just a guess)Fortunately it’s easier to change gearng of the 125 in to cruise mode to use less revs and a bit less fuel , by upgrading to a 520 chain and sprocket set. The slim 428 chains aren’t worth wasting too much money on a heavy bike that will stretch and vtwins by nature start their power at lower revs than a big cc inline 4 bike.
Go get the 125 🙂 , and ofcourse ignore whatever the previous owner did to , always assume its 0 miles (no matter how old it is) and be ready to give if a fresh overhaul of servicing from the get go , usual like tyres brakes filters , fuel lines, suspension checks and all that stuff. if you dare , stripe it down to bare frame while leaving engine inside and just clean up the parts with a nice drag and wipe down the frame from any mud, road traffic film and or oil spills from oil changes or chain grease gunked up inside sprocket cover with a good de-greaser
Changing a chain has no effect on electrics whatsoever , unless can you show us the front sprocket please (so i can confirm its facing right way or there will be a big oil leak when it runs)
So since you are near the front sprocket , check neutral sensor wasnt the hit or its cracked up etc and check wires as its under front sprocket
if the finds suspicion with neutral sensor , or side stand (even if bypassed, rusty wires loose their signal) , or clutch handle bar lever switch (don’t cut the clutch off please, just replace the cable if its a culprit)
it is there to save ur gearbox , some 125s actually start in GEAR (even if it says neutral) , then bike falls to the ground. So the clutch switch is there to force rider to hold it in as you start it .
Halfords Contact Cleaner is very good to help clean rusty pins inside every plug.
Any bike shop or Amazon PRIME 1 day = Get “ACF50” , spray a tiny tear drop inside every plug you see on bike It will love you for it.
Do not put WD40 on electrics unless you want a big fire.
trying to find emulsion tube bolt for2008gv125 any ideas or does anybody have used carb for spares
Post a new topic of your own and please include picture uploaded to your new post, as it helps a ton.
Filter to the PUMP = that short upgrade hose, you can cut it down a little more so the filter doesn’t feel kinked up 🙂 , just a tip!
straight to the ground , its an overflow incase of overspill or breather for tank
as it goes to the floor MAKE SURE as the pipe dangles down doesnt touch the exhaust pipe.
A GT650 shock should be easier to get hold off in your States , than here in UK, from a local USA bike wrecker, they are a bit stronger than the 250 shocks to be fair and will make the bike sit a bit higher.
If it sits higher, anyways, not an issue. Make sure you get a GV250 side stand (dont bother with chinese stands, they WILL warp) That way a shock that sits a little higher will be thankful you used a GV250 side stand so that the bike stays tilted left than too straight up ready to tip over.
A 650 is easily most bolt in option. I’ve seen shocks with gas extensions and what not, they will either be too tall, or hits battery box or hits swingarm, etc.
I personally will be testing various shocks on my own donor GTs and GVs so i know what works best etc before i advise further. However, if you have big bank, HAGON RACING make ace suspension stuff for the 650, so you can probably get a race grade shock made for the 650 rear to fit 250 no problem.
You got this! Keep us posted, well done on the diagnosis so far
For some reason the bottom of picture wouldn’t load up.If you’re handy with a little bit of DIY skill, i think the bike will also look good (and keep a few stones or dirt anyway if it tries!) by fitting a GS500 Belly Pan or SV650 one. 😉
Hi John The GV250 is the frame same etc size as the GV125. I am 6’4″ with a 34 inside leg and size 14 feet, I find my GV a lovely fit. I did play with the back brake pedal to make it a bit lower (put a longer adjuster bolt in). Go for it, a GV250 is easy to work on and a joy to ride for the taller rider. At 950 Euros you will make money when you sell it on.
I wonder if the Aquila 125 has changed over the years, as I’ve just read a couple of reviews of newer (2020-ish) GV125’s being a bit cramped for longer legs?
The newer GV125-S as i’ve witnessed with my own eyes is definitely a little smaller than the older carby ones. It’s because it’s more like Half cruiser/Half Street naked bike = think “Bobber” style.
For fatness and comfort (dare i say) , i would go for the carby GV125 (up to 2019) and it’s GV250 siblings (up to 2019 EFi model)
However the newer GV125-S and GV300S (GV300SA) , i’ve seen people do modifications already to make the seat taller a bit , messed bars to make them higher etc, not the end of the world!
A little jealous as we in the UK about to head in to a long sucky winter, so pictures like that only motivate me to get as much autumn ride time as possible even with the family relative who rides bikes on tow with me.
Welcome , what a beauty that GV125S is!
I wholeheartedly understand the need to change the exhaust, it is the one thing i don’t like about it myself (looks wise) the chrome cannons of the older GV’s were heavy as hell but they looked nice enough and appropriate to the bike’s style (factory wise, cause not every one likes OEM looks haha)
But changing the exhaust on any EFi bike = ECU will tolerate it or it will make sure the bike runs rough until the factory exhaust is put back on. Honestly from experience with carb era GV125 specifically (not including 250s or 650s) , this is strictly GV125 Carby , a modded exhaust will either;
– Force rider to upjet the bike because more fuel is needed as bike is sending more gasses out of the pipe.
– Bike is slower. (due to using crap china ebay cans) (or even the silly slash cuts)
I am digressing… this could be separate topic for you to make in the technical zone of this forum in regards to aftermarket cans and what not. First, let’s see what the dealer does about the warranty workYou should also discuss with them about changing cans, if the say it voids it (likely will, as it’s now “uncharted” teritorry for them to see if the ECU complains or is okay with it, trail and error will be involved etc but as more gas leaves the bike , the engine leans out (leaning out isn’t good) , the injectors “have” a margin of extra bit of fuel can squirt or not (if Korea put injectors that are already at full capacity for a 125cc instead of running 650cc injectors and letting ECU control how much fuel to squirt)
Digressing! Forgive me.
I suppose if the exhaust can you want is
– same size (length and width)
– same size outlet (baffle hole is same size!)Then you may actually get away it but discuss with dealer 1st if you wish to keep the warranty. Things like spark plugs, chains, brake pads are “probably” not a warranty thing so rider is welcome to replace those things but ideally should allow a garage to do it so it goes on the records to the dealer or garage itself incase of any service updates for the bike (like oil change time) or warranty fixes (hope not)
I see the ebay version has 1 less row , not too bad , where did you did you get it from ? I may experiment with it as i usually put temp sensors and gauges near the cylinder heads (custom work) to stay paranoid lol.
Did the ebay one fit straight away ?
If the jets are 90 and 92.5 with slide needle on rich setting, with K&N air filter (K&N 6507) and Lextek OP1 exhaust muffler and Black Widow Exhaust headers
The 125 tends to pull the best (acceleration wise) , this is also assume the mixture screws of carb did not get touched.The Pilots can stay size 15 forever. When you remove DB Killer, bike runs leaner and screams louder but has a slower pull through gear , the only real gain is the top speed (maybe 1-5 mph extra at best)
The OEM Hyosung stock can (muffler) is very heavy and it is quite taxing for the 125cc (not really a problem for 25occ) but lightness is important to the 125cc indeed
If i use 92.5 and 95 on a customer bike, that would be maximum tube because of using NGK LASER plugs, they are a nice gold brown colour . Having a 250 cooler helps a lot too. You may be surprised how heavily used these 125s are in the UK (for work ride, for pleasure, and general riding to cities this is everyday)
Also i have advised some owners i work with in person to stop using E10 fuel, it is rubbish. Nothing positive about extra ethanol mix. So we use e5 and the bikes like it. (E0 would be ideal lol)
DB Killer = Remove it, and hammer the tube inside of DB killer so that “hole is smaller” (about dimensions of 10 Pence UK coin)
This means less gas leave bike
Better lower end torque (very tiny boost) but DYNO will notice.Also Jets 90 and 92.5 are most optimal . 95 and 97.5 is a lot!
Then try DYNO again 🙂
Hi, Just joined and have been reading through this topic since I seem to be facing a similar issue, for the second time. I own a GT250 EFI 2013 and a few years ago I started facing stalling and misfiring issues roughly after about 15 minutes that the bike is on. I spent may hours trying to diagnose the problem including the replacement of ht cables and plugs, ECU change, and injector cleaning. In the end the problem were the ignition coils. I started with replacing one which reduced the missing significantly but since I was still getting some misfiring I replaced the second one as well. There were no external signs that any of these were heating up and getting intermittent. For the past 2 years I have had no further issues but lately it seems the problem is starting to rear its head again though not as significantly. I am assuming it is the coils again but I am somewhat disappointed if the coils fail again after such a short period. I don’t make heavy use of this bike since I prefer my scooter for city riding.
Maybe you could make a new topic about this ? and perharps include more information about the history of the bike etc and what you did in the past to fix anything etc , and any modifications done to it etc… Do this all in a new topic and trust me if i don’t reply , someone else will and also simon on this forum is a good 250 wizard himself , even helps to also upload any video about it (you can upload to your instagram or youtube and set video to public, then share link here, if it helps)
Welcome to the forum and hope maybe one of us will help you fix the bike
While you wait, take a look at the service manual that’s on this forum and try to trick your ECU to get any stored error codes.
