♠️ M77
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In your ebay App on the phone type this
- seller:evocrest fairing
Then you will see all the possible left over fairings i have in stock.
If you have an old design 125R , then you need old design 250R or 650R panels and even 125R old design.
Depends what year the 650 is and what year your bike is 🙂
Then i’ll add some comments to your question.
I mean if the C-Ring sits in a groove by its own, and its a hard metal to press on , probably a good thing it does that since the 650 has a fair amount of weight sprung to its suspension.
You want a mole grip or some kind of vice to force the C-ring in to the slot.I am making an educated guess i have no idea how the rest of the fork rebuild went for you, so i am assuming it’s just that bit.
Hello, just let you know i recieved your email before i saw this topic , so i am responding to it, if you don’t see it in 1hr , check Junk Folder of the mail box 🙂
Hey, at the top of the site navigation, either on the left (mobile phone) there is burger menu of this shape “=” and press it, there is a “live search” box that brings out the results globally , it pulls product first but forum topics are included , and click/tap “view all results” under the live search, to see posts relating to the keywords you entered 🙂
if on the desktop (wide screen device, ie. tablet/pc) , the searchbox is on the left side top background image
Though i’m the sole developer of the site, so any bugs you see i will fix them by hand , sorry for any errors though i do my best to make sure site functions as it should any time of day. The black design is recent, so i’m still optimizing it 😉
Let me know if you managed to search OK?
Get a big big mole grip and get the ring positioned, then use the vice grip to squeeze force the ring to get in the slot.
Thanks for the info, carb was removed cleaned, reassembled, and placed back on the bike,one of the hex head screws on the rubber boot was easily stripped out, it took some time getting the screw out but after about 1 hour I got it off. Removing the intake rubber boots made it much easier, by fitting the carb to the air box first then sliding the boots under the carb made it work much better.
Glad to hear it’s all worked out now 😉
Ride steady sir!PS. If you’re ever out in the sun, post a pic of here on below 😉
So an metal C-Ring has popped out of the bar basically and it won’t sit back in its groove ?
You mean an actual “rubber” o-ring ?
Sorry i’ve just noticed this now.
Welcome to the forum, man that’s a very clean GT Naked. We don’t see too many of them with that new facelift front in UK.
It should freely rev to 10k revs max , as that would be about 90mph which is about right for an EFi bike without redlining it (They don’t like being redlined anyways for too long except simply to overtake a slow car at high speed)
Perharps also consider it’s still under 600 miles , so you’re still “running it in” meaning go very easy with it for the 1st 1,000 miles.
Take it in for service at 600 miles as per service manual, they will check the clearances are good and compression is great . in USA, you should still have access to E5 grade fuel, use that forever. E10 isn’t great on cars or bikes in UK anyway, it’s a wasted economy so to say!
I have a 2002 GV250 I managed to get the carb off the bike after a lot of yanking, pulling, and twisting. Now it is time to re-install the carb on the bike, any suggestions on how to get it back on the bike given the very small space to work?
Hey, take a look at this rough topic i just created below
[Tutorial] How to Remove & Re-Install the GV125 Carby | GV250 AirBox
Hope this helps you and look after those intake pipes, they are now the most difficult parts to get! (Korea stopped making them)
Can you attach a picture of your current cdi so we see the plugs , some CDI have 3 plugs and some have 2 and some have 1 (too rare as usually thats for a GA cruise but korea can surprise us with their cruiser variants of bikes)
GT125/GT250 carby bikes are always 3 plugs.
As per Simon, he is correct on both replies. Nothing to worry about here , they face the road indeed.
However….
If you have a carb bike, please check your carb top diaphragm covers must have 2 tubes joined to 1 long long long tube that travels to the rear of the bike then faces down to the road.
Carb Bike has 3 overflows/breather zones mainly
- Fuel Tank – As per your picture and simon’s confirmation.
- Engine Overflow/Breather – As per your picture & simon confirming it too.
- Carb Unit – if unsure take a pic of BOTH sides of the carb (front and back)
If online, then try Demon Tweaks UK . Good source for tyres and i use them for various bikes.
Michelin Pilot Road (2 to 5)
I find 2 being the longest wearing and just as great as winter tyres too (remember no tyre is snow proof, so caution the icy winter seasons!)
However, Michelins always come out on top, i try not to be biased because my fav other tyre is Bridgestone BT92 , (very sticky tyre!) God i miss it but its harder to find, you may end up having to ask whoever is local to you to import it that does bike tyre fittings on the spot.
Also try Michelin Pilot Street Radial (it must say “Radial” if getting a Street tyre than Pilot Road) , avons displace water sure , but i don’t like them as they slide too much in wet and believe me i’m not always calm when i go to the countrysides to get a bit of a lean down so i don’t square my tyres off lol.
So yeah, unless it’s a matter of preference , opinions may vary 😉 , take what i say with a grain of salt too and this is all from my fav experience wth them and i won’t look back;
- Pilot Street Radial 🤍
- Pilot Road 2 🤍
- Pilot Road 3
- Bridgestone Japan BT92 🤍
- Bridgestone BT23 (dry days only, as winter they get skittish)
- Bridgestone HYPERSPORTS BT016 PRO BATTLAX (rode all wet winters with them, they are great in summer but slippy in wet if you get too excited or go grazy with brakes, be calm in winter with these and they will get you home fine) === My current tyre ATM
Factory size is 110/70 front and 150/70 rear.
Believe me, there is absolutely no need to go bigger and it’s overkill as half the modern small ADV bikes have 140-130 tyres already, so this 125cc is generous enough. the wheels weigh 15kgs each as i post them in general. Ignore people who say stick a 200 tyre on. If in doubt, just trust Hyosung who made the bikes.Hello, I was away for a few days, have you managed to sort this then ?
if not take a picture of the front carb , and behind it , it should have a long cable idle screw with a spring and washer going to a throttle “PLATE” that is under the front FLOAT BOWL (where fuel rests upside down) (aka. left side of the bike is all you need to be, don’t go to the right side of the bike)
I would screw in really gently as threads strip and use PUTOLINE Race Grease on “anything” that moves on the bike because weather wants to rust your bike every chance it gets and parts seize. Parts are for carbies are getting rarer now, so you want to look after it as best you can.
Hide your brake discs , –> wash bike -> dry up —> get ACF50 can —> soak the entire bike engine , parts in it, and it will thank you. I know , i said it too simple but a youtube video of applying acf50 on the bike exists by now. If unsure, ask and i will find an appropriate video.
Hey Lee,
A draft tutorial should be totally fine, i’ll do my best to send a rough copy as soon as the order is made and may even use your own videos to publish on the forum publicly to your credit to help other GV125-S owners indeed.
I like that you have helping hand should you need it but nothing like you doing it yourself fella , you got this!
I would not touch them whatsoever if it is an original bike that’s never had any mods or last keepers fiddling with it. Korea nailed it perfectly so much they don’t even reveal on the service manual how to adjust them, they actively discourage it.
90% of the time carbs just need a good old bath session with an ultrasonic man and a sessision with the air compressor man (as per service manual)
Rattle cans don’t always do it properly. So an ultrasonic bath + air compressor (these 2 together is a must) then carb will really thank you for it.This should be done on a carb wizard, as balancing will follow next and either the exhaust pipes of each engine is analyzed or sticking some meter to read A/F ratio at the end to ensure mixture is correct.
Too little = new piston rings soon (with this summer heat = very very soon)
Too much = a very moody woman to start, and poor riding in general.If you’re looking to improve the top end fuel, check this below.
[Tutorial] How to swap Carb Main Jets – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
If you are looking to improve the mid-range (4 to 7k rpm), check this below
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Here is an old topic what may have some little wisdom to check certain things on the bike, while you are near the carb area and becareful with rubber intake manifolds , you will see why in the link below.
Hello,
Yes 650 forks fit 650 bikes no problem
However, if you have silver forks, use 650 silver forks because they use the grey TCTC Calipers.
If you have black 2018 forks, then use black 2018 forks , due to the fact Hyosung upgraded the calipers to bigger black ones
Out of couriosity , what has happened to the GV650 forks ?
