Description
The secondary air valve setup—often just called the EGR system by owners—is a factory addon used to pass old emission rules by diluting your spent exhaust gasses with cold air from the airbox. While it works for emissions, it causes massive loud popping and banging whenever you fit an aftermarket exhaust pipe, and it leaves your engine bay looking like a mess of messy rubber tubes. Fitting this premium aftermarket Hyosung air blanking plate block kit gives your engine area a clean custom look. It also keeps your vacuum pressure steady for your fuel tap and lets tuners get an accurate look at your fuel mixture without outside air dilution on local roads.
💎 TUNING BLOCK HYOSUNG AIR BLANKING PLATE SPECIFICATIONS
| Stops Loud BackfiringBlocks cold air from entering the exhaust port to quiet down deceleration popping. | Clears Engine BayRemoves a massive web of old cracked rubber hoses and bulky steel pipes. |
| Steady Fuel VacuumHelps keep a constant strong pull for smoother performance on vacuum fuel taps. | Includes BoltsIncludes fresh bright, durable replacement cap bolts. |
📜 Confirmed Fitment Guide
Carburettor Engined Twin Groups: Built exclusively for classic non-injected engine heads. See the diagram picture for bolt layouts.
- Hyosung GT125 / GT250 / GT650 Comet: Fits all naked or faired carb models.
- Hyosung GV125 / GV250 / GV650 Aquila: Fits classic cruiser carb models up to 2019.
- EFI Injection Engines: Later injected bikes use smart electronic air pump networks. Fitting block plates on those models is not a good idea and will throw dash errors.
Notice: UK MOT testing garages do not check emissions on carb models right now. If you live outside the UK, check your local laws.
🔧 Install Tips
- Part 1 — Airbox Blocking Help: For step-by-step hose advice on 125cc or 250cc twins, head straight to the forums thread here. If you are working on a larger 650cc v-twin, head straight to the forums tutorial here.
- ⚠️ Part 2 — Fitting the Alloy Plates: We are not responsible for old factory bolts that snap off or are rusted stuck in the head. Take your time, soak them in oil, or use a local garage if you are stuck.
- ⚠️ Seal the Intake Holes: Go right under your airbox floor and check that the old supply hose opening is completely sealed shut. Leaving this hole open can draw in dirt and cause serious internal engine issues.
- Cap the Manifold Pipe: Slide a rubber cap tightly onto the empty vacuum snout on your intake rubber manifold where the old valve used to feed.
- Ditch the Old Pipes: Unbolt and completely drop away the entire heavy steel hose assembly from the cylinder side ports.
- Skip the Sealant: Clean the flat block faces and use the fresh paper gasket included in the box. Do not use messy liquid RTV silicone paste here.
- Watch the Torque: Tighten down your new stainless bolts gently with a hand hex key. These cylinder blocks use a very soft aluminum alloy, so overtightening will instantly strip the thread holes out.
- Check for Leaks: Fire up the engine and hold your hand near the plate face. Listen out for any subtle hissing sounds or loose hose leaks before you go out for a proper ride.




















Daz –
Bought these EGR blanking plates the other week and they look spot on, were delivered quick too. I’ll upload a picture once I’ve rebuilt the engine.
Cheers