♠️ M77
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im guessing doing upjet is if you having a new exhaust upgrade or air filter performance
Stock machine = Upjet it anyway (the rear is a little cooler as fuel has a cooling effect) & should run a little better in 5th.
Modded machine -> K&N Air Filter or Stainless Exhaust pipe or End CAN = upjetting mandatory ofcourse. Modded bike ? = Baffle runs better with baffle in than without baffle on any 4T (& quieter anyway! 😉 )
Laser or IX plugs help a lot. If the plugs are “coffee brown” the bike is happy!
The stock ones are too sooty & a nightmare for UK winters, usually chuck em first thing lol.
I usually get a lot of feedback on messenger by the owners themselves, will try to get them to leave more feedback on the shop pages!
However, there are some reviews to be found on the facebook group we run:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/345623961212/search/?query=fuel%20filterThe benefits should have been mentioned on the shop page , but dare i say it, tiny holes don’t help on long trips, these twins definitely like their fuel coming faster through a bigger hole.
A big filter lasts about 15-20K , a stock one is useless after pretty much 5000 ish & a big filter is a big little reserve fuel 😉
if the bike is modded = then stock parts have to go ofcourse. As the usual saying goes “More In / more out” (air & fuel)
Beautiful bike man, looks really sunny out there . It’s winter , we UK folks need our summer back lol
Will try to share this on instagram when i get the chance. I like the cruisers , been thinking of getting one now.
Welcome to the site! Don’t forget to also join the facebook group. I may be doing a competition soon probably but will try get some more member numbers up!
hello
Very good information over here!
I have a question.. how many turns, after all this mods, do you have at the pilot/air screws??
big thanks
Good question, but according to the manuals (which i agree with), is that the C/O (air fuel mix screws are usually pre-tuned at factory and must never be touch, hence they hide the gold screws with a rubber bung.
The reason for that is also the front and rear engine don’t spark at the sametime, jetting is lager on one carb , then front etc.. so “usually” with these carbs on a 125-250cc type of bike would be about 2.75 – 3.5 turns out – more or less depending on jetting on carb too.
The biggest hint = plugs will be coffee brown , that means stop there & the bike is all set.
However, most mechs don’t always know this and i can’t be surprised when ignore the service manual warnings haha.
Anyways, to put it short. The stock carbs don’t need that kind of tune. Only thing to do is uprate the jets (more fuel) = then add more air (better air filter) then its a happier bike.
“Pilot Jets” don’t need replacing as they as good as they get on the 125 twins, only “extreme” tuning would require air fuel tuning or pilot jet swapping.
Only Main Jets is what most of us all do with a K&N Filter – for a “plug n play” simple weekend!
Hey ,
Welcome to the forum. Someone asked a similar question on facebook not too long ago, so this is what i said (which therein applies to you too)
Here it is:
“”bogging” / Cuts At Stops / Spark Cap being damp ? / not above 40
1. Start the bike – Use a multi meter -> Switch to Volts -> At the battery get a reading of 14v around 3-4k revs
14.2v at idle (if its any less, it won’t have high speed juice.)
Looking at the data says these bikes should be 14 – 15v norminal.2. Switch off the engine , put all the lights on inc high beam. Switch on the left or right indicator – If the dash dims badly – > Investigate battery.
A Garage will just check it for you (they will tell you if it DOES need replacing due to age)
Some Old batteries run worse in the freezing cold.
An Oximizer helps in some cases to pro-long the life an old battery3. COILS = Get that meter out again , switch to K ohms
– > Bike look -> Look for wire going to coils.
-> Put “RED” wire of the test meter on the “spade” terminal of the coil
-> Put “black wire on the BOLT that is attached to the coil”
Get 5K ohms reading (Within that figure)4. COILS = Remove them, scrap the frame off rust, until you see a shiny element – reconnect coils – Spray “tiny” drop of ACF50 (Anti Rust) in to the exposed elements of the coil (frame, fins, wire)
5. Coils = One tiny drop of acf50 inside the “insulator” cap shround helps maintain electrical connection to the plugs , god forbid should water get there.
6. Spark Plugs = Dark Coffee cream colour = Jetting is OK. (not rich)
Must be almost identical to both engines.If there isn’t ACF50 to use or similar product – Clean the areas of rust near the coils & bike harness (wires) especially when they attach themselves to the frame
7. Spark Plugs = Take em out, clean the tips –
The only plugs i can verify & few others is that now “CR8E IA” lasers plugs do better job at maintaining throttle response (its easier for the engine to burn off fuel in chambers)
“IX” is good too, but IMO waste of cash now as it’s not as dramatic as switching to IA ones.YOU WILL be less likely to use the choke!
8. Can get to 40 plus?
– Valve Issues (Tappets/Cam Chain/Tensioner/Valve Springs) – Believe it not, you won’t ever see 70 plus if the valves system hasn’t been service – Get the service history & find out when it was done compared to your current mileage now. A clear running video helps , if you ever post it.
– Carburetors (will explain below) – Bike can’t run good without it 100% right.
– Coils (^ as above ^ ^ ^ )9. Air Leaks = Investigate these areas:
Airbox (unsecured air filter?) / Carbs (check rubber manifolds are tight) / All hoses.10. Boggyness = Too much fuel or weak electrics.
Other hand, if it runs better on choke (enriching) – Sort the jets.
Choke for 5mins is enough. They get hot quick if they stay above 3K revs.High revs = Too much or leaking somewhere.
Boggy low revs = Electrics or Fueling system. / Weather.Set idle speed to 1650 rpm when its normal (running fine)
Next time it starts from cold, it will idle a bit higher than 1300 rpm which for some reason is way too weak , fine on bigger cc machines. A CBR 125 2018 idles at 1700 from cold. We have 2 pistons to spin.11. Carbs = This whole operations means carbs stay on the bike & you’re on the left side.
Drain the fuel (1 screw INSIDE each bowl) (x2)
Fuel drains on the small lines. Get a bowl.
Take off the bowls.
Inspect your carbs.
You will see 4x jets (2x main =above20mph they take over)(2x Pilot Jets.)
Stock sizes 87.5 at the front + 15 Pilot then 90 Rear (+15 Pilot)If unsure, remove the carbs entirely and have a local mech blast it clean. in & out.
12. Cuts Off = Sidestand switch &/Or – Fuel delivery issues (inspect whole fuel system from the tank to the carb)
Sometimes your bike electrics may be fine , but the carbs may not be cooperating…. A lot can be done these motors run better but let’s get them to standard running 1st (y)
Kill the list ^ one by one
If you ignore all i said ^ and are in a rush – Kill the rust, check contacts , hear for sounds near the top end ; touch the clutch basket to feel for any low-end knocking , or loud basket clatter (clutch plates) , ensure the bike is dry
Failing that – Time to inspect in detail ^A naked comet much easier to get to that a GTR. As with naked bikes, inspect their exposed elements (y)
All GV125/250 engines have “shroud” cover that is supposed to seal the entire spark plug hole (old age can detoriate them , so check) its separate – You can actually take it off.
Listen to both cylinders and inspect their heat consumption during warm up – If the rear is cold – the coil is dead or there is no juice going to plug or its too fouled , etc..
A bike running 1 one cyl must feel like its taking twice the time to take off at lights & WILL stuggle on hill climbs above 40.”
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End of quote.So take some time, i think you may laugh later, could just something silly that has gone amiss while you are busy investigating it.
Since it is a new bike, it should be under warranty, the dealer has a responsibility to make sure it is at optimal running. Also it is less than 1,000 miles old, so you could give it more chance to “run it in” (engine wise) so that after 600 miles, a full major service can be carried out , this includes valve clearances , timings check (these can affect top end power) , flushing the oil with fresh one , checking the whole bike basically. If something was amiss, they must replace it or supply you the part free as under warranty.
Hope this info helps, but update us all on your progress!
* Any * pipe on bike = must be replaced within 2-4yrs max.
Rubber rots inside too. And gums up parts. Stock lines have tiny holes (slower flow)Braided fuel and air lines last 10 years , and they run colder (meaning heat resistant) so your fuel doesnt turn gassy on a hot day.
Big holes flow more air and fuel. So your carbs get fuel quicker , big vacuum lines help your pump flow fuel better (it works like a pulse)
So more air in the vacuum system helps.
Giant filters (a good one!) Hold more clean fuel as a mini reserve plus your carb has less dirt going to it. Cant trust every Petrol station out there.
So yes air and fuel lines help. Any extra info is at /shop/ page or search *fuel* in the search bar ^ for a diagram . Pictures will reveal the differences.
Next up. Stock jets are crap. I’ll leave it at that lol.
Bigger jets = slight torque boost, rear engine is COLDER since petrolium has cooling effect.To understand or how to swap carb jetting Search *Carb* ^
There is a lot that can be done on these machines, but one warning. They hate *china* copy parts! Eg. Cheap £1 lines. 😉
For anything else (tune wise), copy this link or tap below
https://m.facebook.com/groups/345623961212?view=permalink&id=10154079865506213It saves me rewritting as i get asked often but i am amending the list above as i have done a lot more since then.
Will be finding time to make a proper 101 Book for all things GT125R tuning with probably 3 pages but should be enough to allow people to do things without paying mechanics robbery prices.
Also i have uploaded as many service manuals in forum as (125/250 = same frame) so books also contain a lot of maintenance info etc…
Ofcourse, if try everything I said in the previous replies , your bike WILL run better!
Hey welcome!
Sorry I didn’t reply sooner, I have just read this so , my best replies are already found in these below
(GV125 / GT125 / GT125R = are the same engine anyway)#1. topic link 1
#2. Topic link 2
#3. topic link 3
If the infomation on the links above did not help, let us know exactly what steps were taken & if the bike made any improvements at all?
I hope this is just a quick fix for you.
Hey dude!👍🏽
You can always get this one which is used by many of us in UK
https://hyoriders.club/shop/
Then ill simply get supplier to send a 650 version.If not, depending on your regrec plug type (some reg recs have split plugs.)
Anyways
You may also consider
Electrosport for 650 and i believe electrosport still make stators for the hyosung also.Be a good idea to browse the TECH section of this website for 650 manuals. Test your stator with a meter to make sure its operating withing spec
In US i believe there is a supplier that stocks shingden regulators but some may need some wire mods to mix with hyo wires (if they dont already have a conversion kit)
Yes R1 seems common for 650 but some reg recs may be china copies so lifespan is wild on those.
Hope this info helps!
I tried to test this way earlier to day.. but could only get readings on some of the terminals, and the numbers we’re kinda random..
Try again and use the chart for each pin and save readings on paper then compare.
It also says in chart ^:sometimes its hard to detect a failed unit if other parts may be broken inside.
Send me an email – I will try to hunt a CDI locally for you , i know 1 man who is splitting up his bike.
Hope he still has it!
To test CDI, follow these pictures below:
(SAVE PICS to PC or Phone and zoom in)
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Good luck!
So lower fairings (2x big side panels) & rear plastics (x2)
What about the “center V Piece” under oil cooler?
I can get these made locally in staineless. Just send me an email as it would be a custom order.
Hey,
Welcome to the new forum! After reading through, i’ll say this ” bike life doesn’t leave you, once you’re a biker 😉 ”
Anyways, speaking of Hyosungs, you may have missed out on 2 great meets which happend in Matlock & the Midlands this 2018 summer , it would have been nice to meet you and other guys would too.
This winter 2018, keep her nice and looked after , 2019 we’re all of to Didcot (South UK) as the next set of meet & rides.
You can find more info on the forum’s “Rides” section. Or RSVP yourself , on the facebook group if you like:
https://facebook.com/groups/345623961212/A lot of using this new forum came from facebook, as there was no forum for UK! – So speaking of forums, you can browse a little and you will get yourself an owners manual and service books.
So if you’re looking to do certain tasks on the bike or know more info on something, the service manuals are all uploaded on this site.
Ride safe this weekend!
Hey,
- Look at the blue arrows. 1 tab is at the top and 1 tab is under the bike (under the clutch-cover should i say!)
- Put a little screwdriver “behind” the tabs, and then tap them so that the clutch cover can wedge / pop off!
- Sometimes the “paper” gasket sticks hard, so the tabs help us use a mallet / rubber hammer etc… to tap the cover out of the bike.
Hope this info helps… Let me know!
Hey!
Welcome to the site, you made the right choice with the 650 twin. We need more of that presence in the UK.
If not already, you can also find us at the facebook group too where 650 owners sometimes post images. There is a few!
https://facebook.com/groups/345623961212/We had 2 rideouts this year for hyosung owners , one in midlands & one in derbyshire. It was the biggest one for years.
So if you fancy meeting us all in a road trip? – We are going to Didcot (South UK) in most of 2019 meets. You live in Wales, I will try to organize a Welsh hyo meet around Spring 2019!
I went to Bristol from Yorkhire, about 600 plus miles all in – Didn’t pass through wales, which i am sad about. I actually miss your neck of woods. Always a great ride to wales
My next stop in 2019 should be Lake Bala. So when I make my way to wales , i may give you a shout 😉
I understand when you say “years” under the belt from all the bike roads, tell you what, don’t stop riding yet –
I am sure you both know how liberating it is!
Have a good week, hope you enjoy the stay on here. (It’s a new forum by the way!) – Look for freebie competitions or meetups posted on this website and also the forums.
2019 will get very busy!
Gonna share this on facebook group too.
Do you have any pictures of it ? – Just reply attaching them here (“Add media”) button & i will add them back your topic ^
Fife, Pittenweem to be exact, just thought I’d say HI
Fife in the house! Welcome pal!
You hit the nail on the head, excessive shavings on sump bolt magnet, whining noise from the clutch system side. weak Springs . finished Clutch Plates . Metal Discs distorted
This is what the service manual says, which points to your findings…
So it looks like you may need to overhaul your clutch system.
Take a look at this link below (I go more in detail about the clutch system)…..
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-hyosung-gv-gt-125-250-clutch-plates-replacement/In regards to starting ? Not sure what the starting issue is. You would have to elaborate more.
False N’s can also be clutch system needing attention or electrical Gear “N” sensor (next to sprocket )
I say we deal with the clutch first , then see about dealing with the “N” light.
Hope this info helps!
It it just the nipple on the throttle body that I cannot find a place to connect the other end
If you cover the hole with a bang. Observe your dash for any potential info displayed or else it will run as normal. I’d see how it behaves on a quick ride down the street & return home.
Just to make sure the bike is happy before venturing out on long journeys.
Keep us updated. I can always read the books regarding efi bikes.
How about the airbox ? Are all the air pipes connected too ?
I know some bikes other than hyosung would have a clear-bung (plug) that just covers the hole.
But we have to be sure there is nothing else unconnected on the bike , or has it had history of changes on pipes ? (i know the service manual says to replace hoses every 2-4yrs)
If you ever have some pics of your set up , may help me make sure the 08 bike has its set up right according to books.
