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gv125

Aquila GV 125 barn find

Perhaps it’s best if I start a new thread here as the subject has drifted away from my earlier GV250 post.

I went to look at two bikes today, a Yamaha XV 250 and the above mentioned Aquila 125.

 

The Yamaha felt okay, but a little small perhaps. I could almost certainly get used to it though. But then I went to see the Aquila. It was literally in a barn, under a tarpaulin.Β  Immediately I got on it, it felt like it was made for adults to use, the Yamaha was like a toy by comparison. The foot controls were positioned there where my feet wanted to be, rather than the other way around.

Unfortunately though there really is a lot of work there. The paintwork was in a reasonable state, but the fuel tank had been left completely empty and it was rusty inside. the throttle cable was seized, but the clutch and both brakes were working. The key for the saddle was missing which is problematic as the battery has been dead for ten years at least,and access is from under the seat. The tyres were flat, but would obviously need to be replaced anyway.

I’m kicking myself so hard now for having missed the gv250. Still there’s no use crying over spilt milk.

The situation is that I really wouldn’t want a project as my first bike. I’m tempted by this, but not at 500 euros.Β  These bikes don’t have much value here as people don’t trust “odd” makes. They don’t realise things like the Suzuki connection means that some spare parts (eg oil filter) are in fact extremely easy to find.Β  The seller was firm on the price, but the sad fact is that with what I’d have to spend on getting it back on the road, I would nowhere near recover my costs if I wanted to sell it for a bigger bike. If it had been a 250 rather than a 125 I’d probably go for it on the basis that I’d almost certainly be keeping it anyway.

Perhaps I should buy a Yamaha 250 to get me started and on the road, then try and find a GV250 from somewhere like Germany where they seem to be less of a rarity than at home in Finland.Β  I’d still be tempted by the 125 project if the price was lower though. After all winter is coming, and a project might keep me out of mischief!

 

Random electrical fault

Hi new to the forum so hello all.

I have a strange electrical problem if I put the key in the ignition it controls all light up .the engine fires and runs .but then if I turn it off then back on nothing no electrics nothing can any one help .oh the bike is a 2003 gv125

Carburetor GV 125 Year 2012

Hi Guys,

My Name is Max and IΒ΄m proud ower of a GV 125 classic KM4MF53A.

I need information about the settings of the carb. Especially the adjustment of the height of the float chamber.

I have adjustet it to 17mm because I only have the service manuel from the previous model. I Can tell you that it didnt worked well.

The slider with menbrane YK8844 is a little sluggish, means it doesnΒ΄t slide very well up and down and sometimes it is a little stuck. Any tipps?

Also it would be interesting which lengh the spring of the above mentioned slider should have.

Also I have difficulty loosening some screws, do you have any tips?

Maybe it is even easier to replace the whole carb, are there any opportunities to pay less than 630 Euro?

The matching workshop manual would be a blessing.

 

Thanks and sorry for the bunch of questions πŸ˜†

regards Max from Germany

 

Wrong drain plug for oil change

Hi all, foolishly dropped oil from wrong drain plug ,the one opposite the oil drain plug, a spring and a pin fell out but not sure which way the pin goes back in

Any advise would be appreciated

 

Diaphragms – GV125 Carby

Hi all I bought diaphragms from the shop on this site for a gv125 etc etc . My current diaphragms in the bike are flat at bottom where the needle pokes through.Β  And the ones I bought are alittle cupped.Β  Which means they are for 250cc !?. Can i still use them in my 125 ?

GV125Γ‡ Speedo fault

HelloΒ  wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction?

Riding home the other night my speedo decided to give up the ghost.

It was chucking down with rain when I suddenly went from 30 mph to the top of the clock then random speeds or absolutely nothing. Today even in the dry startedΒ  out with random speeds then nothing. On my way home nothing except the occasional flick of life. Also not recording milage.

I think it might be a damaged wire but dark by the time I got into can’t see anything,Β  or could it be the dynamo in the hub that generates charge that is converted to speed an distance

Any help gratefully received

Regards to all

Nigel

GV125 Front Footrest

Hi Guys,

I am new to the site and in need of desperate help sourcing a replacement lefthand front footrest, after my girlfriend unfortunately crashed her Aguila GV125.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Colin

Gv125 jet sizing

Evening all

New member with carb issues on my little gv125 hardtail bobber.

Open exhaust and mesh filters as airbox is not an option. Carb is untouched from previous owner with 17.5 pilots and 95 mains front and rear, needle set to bottom groove.

Was having a nightmare starting and hot running cutting out on me. So i used my gunson colortune to try sorting out the idle and it was rich. Only way i could get the mixture right was to shut the screws completely and turn back 1/4 turn maybe less.

Im not after power i just want it to run right so i can enjoy my hard work

Swin

[How to Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Oil Filter on Hyosung GV125 GV250 GT GT250R GT125R

Time for an oil change? …One of the crucial things to stay on top of!


This short tutorial shows you how to change your oil with ease on the 125/250 twins (2001-2018) and also the filter!

This applies to: GV125 (01-2018) / GV250 (upto 2018) / GT & GTR 125 (03-2018) including GT250+R.

Personally, one of my other twins gets its oil changed every 1,000-1500 miles using Ester oils. Manual suggests longer intervals, but I prefer premium oil (JASO MA2, Ester good) every 1500 miles max. 🏍️

Moving on, let’s prepare the parts & tools first…

Oil – 2x 1L Bottles
(Bike needs 1.5L total)
Oil Filter & O-Rings
(don’t skip filters!)
Drain Pan/Bucket
(3L+ capacity)
Torque Wrench
(too crucial, you’ll see why below ⏬)
Size 15/17mm Socket
(12 sided, NO SPANNER)
Size 10mm Socket / Driver

Plus these bits also: Pliers | Funnel | Gloves | Clean rags | Measuring jug

1. Undo your filler cap first!

For stock caps, use pliers (anti-clockwise). For custom CNC Caps, use 19/21mm socket.

2. Go under engine & loosen the drain plug

For GTR owners, use a bar extension or remove fairings. ⚠ Be slow to prevent the plug falling into the bucket!

3. About those drain plugs…

Roads are salty; stock plugs can seize. Use a coloured, weather-resistant magnetic plug to avoid issues. Available here.

4. Finished draining? Close the drain-hole!

Clean under the engine, use torque wrench max 15ft lbs. β›” DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THIS BOLT.


5. Go to your oil filter cover next!

Undo the 3 nuts holding the cover. ⚠ Oil WILL fall out; place a rag/pan underneath. Wear gloves. Dispose old filter.


6. Filter Cover Inspection & O-Ring Change (Pt.1)

Clean the cover, check spring, replace big O-ring (dress in oil first β›”).


7. O-Ring Change (Part2)

Replace the O-ring at the back inside the filter area. ⚠ Use a small hook, don’t force. CHANGE THE OLD O-RING TO A FRESH ONE.

8. Next, your new oil filter goes in!

Ensure the hole of the filter goes inside the engine as shown.

9. Close the filter cover!

Tighten nuts to 6 ft lbs max. 🚦 Ensure the cover O-ring is oiled.

10. Done? Grab your oil (& measuring jug!)

Pour 1.5L (1500ml). Not less, not more πŸ˜‰ No jug? Use bottle markers.

11. Get your Funnel and pour the oil in…

12. Close the oil filler cap!

Ensure cap and O-ring are clean and undamaged.

🚦 Complete – Idle for 60 seconds & turn off!

Check sight glass, top-up if needed, and ensure drain plug is secure.

Tidy up & Go ride. 🏁

Questions? Fire away in the comments! 🀺

[How to Tutorial] Adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) Hyosung GV250 GV125 GT GT125R GT250R

[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) - Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
How to adjust/tune the carburettor slide needle for improved riding…


βš™ What does this do?

This modification allows the bike to reach better cruising speeds via slide needle adjustments. The throttle slide needle controls main jet fuelling as revs change. This also eliminates flat spots between 4k–7k rpm, common on 125s. For example, if the bike struggles at near full throttle, this mod helps it pull with less twist. Your bike should run better from 1st to 5th gear.

πŸ‘‡ Before we start, this tutorial assumes:

  • You will do this at your own risk and without rushing.
  • You have good spark plugs (e.g., Platinums) or older IX plugs.
  • Your ignition coils & HT caps are sparking well.
  • Your carb has already been upjetted (tap here…).
  • You have a performance filter (K&N, BMC, etc.), or if using a stock cotton one, cut its snorkel.

Tools needed:

  • JIS type screwdriver (+ Philips style)
  • Large & long flat head screwdriver
  • Size 7mm socket (front bolts sometimes hex shaped)
  • Watchmaker flat screwdriver
  • Clean microfibre cloth

1. Go to the right side of your bike

Spend most of your time here. Work on one pot at a time and avoid distractions.

2. Unscrew the 1st diaphragm cover

Remove the 4 bolts holding the diaphragm cover.

⚠ Disconnect throttle cable!


3. Remove the spring & diaphragm

Gently remove piston slide & spring.

4. Inspect & clean parts carefully

Use Wynns Carb Cleaner for all parts including diaphragm cover. This prevents sticking between revs/gears & scoring internal carb walls.

5. Unscrew plastic plug holding needle

Use long flat blade screwdriver, gentle ⚠.


6. Remember the order of re-fitting

Keep the image in mind when refitting small parts.

7. Remove the E-Ring (Circlip) slowly

Use a small watchmaker screwdriver. ⚠ Handle gently.


8A. Needle grooves

  • Pointy end of needle faces down
  • Push down black spacer slightly
  • Put E-Ring in 3rd groove
  • Push black spacer back against E-Ring


8B. Another view

Ensure E-Ring is in 3rd notch with black spacer pushed back. (Lowest groove, pointy end down. Factory usually 2nd or top near flat end.)

9A. Check throttle slide hole

9B. Grab needle & follow image

9C. Slot needle & mini-spring

⚠ Review step #6 and 9A/B

10. Check needle for free movement

10B. Coat throttle slide ring with oil

Prevents leaks & particle trapping.


11. Refit slide, spring & cover
  • Reconnect throttle cable
  • Ensure 4 screws are finger tight
  • Finished? Move to next cover.

12. Repeat on rear carb

13. Final check 🏁

  • Airbox clamps tight
  • Slide cover bolts finger tight (x8)
  • Throttle & choke cables checked
  • Air lines secure (prevent vacuum leaks)


Done!

Straightforward process. If unsure, comment. Otherwise, go ride! 🏁


FAQ / Troubleshooting 🎳
  • Bike runs worse after mod? Check covers & airbox for leaks.
  • No air leaks but still worse? Inspect spark plugs; ensure better sparking than stock.
  • New plugs but still worse? Check HT Cap & ignition coils. HT Cap removed β‰ˆ 6kΞ©; Coil ≀6kΞ© to frame.
  • HT cap/coils high resistance? Replace both; stock ignition parts can’t be repaired.
  • Changed coils/HT caps but still worse? Ensure main & pilot jets are clean. Tap here to remove carbs.
  • Can this be done on stock 125cc? Mod will slightly enrich mid-range; jetting & better electrics improve results.

πŸ’‘ Tips:

Replace the O-rings every time you remove manifolds to prevent air leaks. Always work in a clean environment as intake holes are exposed. We sell the O-rings in the shop!

For less stress, use stainless steel socket cap (Allen key head) bolts with a good CRV Allen key and tighten properly. Form A M6 stainless steel washers are recommended. In the UK, these are widely available at car shops including Halfords.

[How to Tutorial] Change Vacuum Lines on Hyosung GT125R GT250R & GT Comet (Air Hose Diagram)

Hyosung vacuum line setup

Changing the vacuum lines on carburetor 125/250 vTwins should be fairly easy. All you need is 15–30 mins of your time. Let’s start with the basics.

  • Hyosung advises that if your factory lines are 2–4 years old, discard them regardless.
  • Old pipes can rot internally, especially cheap Chinese rubber ones.
  • Larger, colder air pipes can improve the vacuum system, but use strong clips!
  • Strong clips are essential to prevent air leaks.
  • This tutorial applies to all carb-operated 125/250 GT & GTR Twins (including GV125)

Let’s go now… strip your fairings (GTR owners)

(Naked bikes can skip this step)
hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125

Diagram of how the “AIR LINE” system should be connected:

Study the diagram images below first before moving on.

hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125
hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125
hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125

VACUUM LINE #1 = CONNECT THE REAR FUEL PUMP FIRST

Got your lines ready? On the LEFT side of your bike, grab a hose for the fuel pump and follow the diagram below:

hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125
hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125
hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125

VACUUM LINE #2 = CONNECT YOUR FUEL TANK TAP

  • Once the rear fuel pump is connected from the left side, move to the RIGHT side of your bike.
  • Grab a second vacuum pipe and follow the diagrams below:

hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125
hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125
hyosung gt125r air vacuum line gt250 gv125

That’s it – Vacuum setup is done! 🚦

If you have an AIS device (Fake emissions/EGR), see below:


  • Refer to the cartoon diagram of the “EGR DELETE” mod.
  • Remove or block anything feeding it.
  • Example image below shows setup. Personally, it’s a useless device.
  • If you want it connected, replace β€œblocked” with β€œconnected”.

EGR delete vacuum line


Alright, we are done. Go test ride! 🏁

test ride hyosung


I hope this quick tutorial was easy to follow. If you get stuck or need help, just comment on this post! This also applies to GV owners since they use the same rear pump.

[How to Tutorial] How to Swap Upgrade Carb Main Jets Hyosung GT GT125R GV250 GV125 GT250R

Hyosung Carb 250 125 GT GV Pilot Jets Main Jet

How to Swap Carb Main Jets on Hyosung 125/250cc V-Twins


Carb Main Jets are one of the most common upgrades on these 125/250 carby twins. This tutorial will show you how to swap carb main jets the easy way. #SwapNGo!

Important: If your bike is under warranty, check with your dealer before doing this. Doing this may void warranty on new bikes.

Anyway, let’s cut to the chase!


0. Tools Required:
  • Large Mole Grips (& small one too)
  • Philips (+) Star screwdriver – Regular Length
  • Philips (+) Star screwdriver – Stubby Length
  • Small amount of cooking oil
  • Hex Bits (& screwdriver Bit) (if you have stainless bolts on the carbs)
  • 10 or 12mm Spanner or Socket Tool
  • Flat-Head (-) screwdriver
1. Remove Side Panels & Fairings

Unscrew the bolts holding the side-panels, then take off your fairings.

Owners of Naked Bikes: Skip to #2.

Tip for GTR Owners: Place a rug under the bike. When fairings drop as one piece (left/right side panels + middle engine fairing), carefully push one side under the bike to remove safely.

2. Remove the Fuel Tank
  • Unscrew #10 (fuel tank bolt) and lift tank slightly to see fuel pipes
  • Disconnect the fuel pipe safely (marked in red circle in pictures)
  • Disconnect the small vacuum-air hose attached to the tap
  • Remove the tank from the frame. Watch out for small rubber parts that may fall out

Hyosung Tank Removal

3. Loosen Airbox Clamps

On the left side under the airbox, use a stubby screwdriver to unscrew the 2 clamps on each carb.

Loosen Airbox Clamps

4. Remove Airbox

Take airbox off and put aside. Remember the 2 bolts holding it to the frame!

Remove Airbox

5. Exposed Bike View

Bike Exposed View

6. Loosen Rubber Intake Clamps

Unscrew the clamps holding the carburetors down.

Loosen Intake Clamps

7. Lift Carbs Slightly

Leave cables & pipes connected. Fuel will be drained next.

Lift Carbs Slightly

8. Drain Fuel Safely
Do this in a ventilated area or outdoors! Fuel vapors are flammable.
  • Unscrew 2 bolts halfway (marked in red)
  • Catch dripping fuel in a bowl

Drain Fuel

9. Remove Idle Screw Adjuster

Unscrew the steel bolt holding the idle screw (left side of engine).

Idle Screw Adjuster

10. Remove Float Bowls

Remove 8 screws holding float bowls. Some may be tight; use force carefully.

Remove Float Bowls

11. Use Mole Grips if Needed

Bite bolt heads carefully if screws are stuck, then remove completely.

Use Mole Grips

12. Swap Main Jets

Install upgraded jets: one size up front & rear, depending on model.

Swap Main Jets

Stock Carb Jet Info:

  • GT125 / GT125R & RC = 87.5 Front, 90 Rear
  • GT250 / GT250R = 92.5 Front, 95 Rear
  • GV125 Aquila = 87.5 Front & Rear
  • GV250 Aquila = 90 Front, 87.5 Rear

Pilot jets remain stock: 125cc = 15, 250cc = 20

13. Install Upgraded Jets

GT125/125R = 90 Front, 92.5 Rear
GT250/250R = 95 Front, 97.5 Rear
Aquila 125/250 = One size up each

Install Upgraded Jets

14. Double-Check Jets

Ensure brass jets are snug but not over-tightened. Clean tiny holes with carb cleaner.

Double-Check Jets

15. Oil the Gaskets

Use small amount of cooking or motor oil on your fingers to coat gaskets.

Oil Gaskets

16. Reassemble Bike

Reverse steps #12 β†’ #1. Double-check all screws & clamps.

17. Final Outcome

Final Result
Final Result 2

18. Reinstall Fuel Tank & Pipes

Check all clamps, throttle, choke line, fuel drain cable, and idle screw.

Reinstall Fuel Tank

19. Start Bike

If it doesn’t start immediately, use choke, twist throttle a few times, crank 5-7 seconds. Use Bradex Easy Start if necessary.

20. Troubleshooting
  • Fuel may take a few seconds to reach carbs
  • Use choke lever fully if needed
  • Crank while twisting throttle 5-7 seconds
  • Let idle for few mins to burn off excess fuel
21. Done! 🏁

You should be ready to ride. If you have questions or feedback, reply below!

[How to Tutorial] Clutch Plates Upgrade Replacement for Hyosung GT GV125 GT250R GT125R GV250

Learn how to change Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates on the GV125 / 250 Engines (GT/GV)


πŸ’₯ NOTE! – SOAK YOUR CLUTCH PLATES IN OIL FOR 24HRS BEFORE DOING THIS! πŸ’₯

πŸ›  Tools Needed

Size 8-10 “O-Spanner” Stubby Flat Screwdriver Allen Keys (if needed)
Oil Drain Pan Size 15/17/19 Sockets Pliers or MoleGrips
Rags Time Patience

Optional 19mm socket/spanner for CNC Magnetic Oil Filler Cap

🎁 Parts Replaced

Clutch Plates (fibre) Clutch Bearing Steel Clutch Discs
Oil (1.5L) JASO MA2 Grade Oil Filter & O-Rings

πŸ’ͺ Skill Level = Anyone can do it, but if unsure, speak to a mechanic. (Follow this guide at your own risk)


HYOSUNG GV 125 250 CLUTCH PLATES uk hysoung FORUM OWNERS CLUB

⚠ Symptoms / Troubleshooting Hints

Always replace your clutch plates when you notice the following:

  • Every 5000-6000 miles. Regardless (just like brake pads have a wear limit!)
  • When you find yourself adjusting the clutch cable frequently.
  • When gears feel notchy or hard to shift.
  • When the bike slips during gear changes.
  • Does your clutch basket “knock” during idle?
  • Does the bike “rumble” when holding the clutch lever in?
  • Acceleration is slower than before.
  • Clutch seems to “slip” on hard acceleration.

πŸ”§ Let’s fix it….


Technical Inspection (What to look for inside)

HYOSUNG GV 125 250 CLUTCH PLATES uk hysoung FORUM OWNERS CLUB

  • Clutch Plate Thickness Limit = 2.6mm (New ones range from 3-4mm)
  • Clutch Spring Free Length Limit = 36.2mm (Normal range 3.8 to 4.6mm)
  • Deep grooves on the clutch basket? Time to replace entirely, or file gently if minimal wear.
  • Silver clutch metal discs (separators) – 1mm distortion limit.
  • Loud rattling sounds? Your clutch plates may be cracked and must be replaced immediately to avoid blocking oil passages.
  • Clutch basket center nut must remain tight with its washer intact.

🚦 Let’s begin!!!

HYOSUNG GV 125 250 CLUTCH PLATES uk hysoung FORUM OWNERS CLUB

Park your bike, get your tools out, and start with the drain pan to drain oil first…

HYOSUNG GV 125 250 CLUTCH PLATES uk hysoung FORUM OWNERS CLUB

  1. Use either 15mm, 17mm, or 19mm socket to drain the oil:
    • A. Clean the oil drain plug.
    • B. Drain all the oil completely.
    • C. Refit the plug.
    • D. Tighten to a maximum of 15 ft.lbs (20 N.M) – torque wrench recommended. If unavailable, tighten until it feels snug.
πŸ”₯ BE WARNED! – THIS IS THE “DRAIN” PLUG (DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING ELSE UNDER THE BIKE)

Drain plug warning

Ready? Get the new clutch plates and discs out…

New clutch plates ready


Remove the engine cover bolts in the blue circles. Remember where each bolt goes! Some bolts vary in size. πŸ”₯ Be warned: leftover oil will spill out!

Oil filter warning

When you reach the oil filter rod, carefully remove it:

  1. Put two nuts on top of each other.
  2. Undo the second nut (the top one acts as a stopper).
  3. Continue unscrewing until the rod comes out entirely.

⚠ Note: Mole grips can be used with caution but may scratch the rod.

O-Rings warning

Don’t lose the O-Rings! There are 2: one for the cap, one inside the oil filter hole. Always replace O-rings & filter during oil or clutch work.

Clutch cover removal

Use a stubby screwdriver to gently loosen the clutch cover, working from the bottom and then top near the oil cooler pipes. Carefully remove the cover.

Gasket warning

πŸ”₯ NOTE: The gasket must be replaced with a new one. Old gaskets may tear.

Remove clutch bolts

Remove clutch bolts from top down gradually (25% each), then fully remove. This protects the clutch springs.

Inspect clutch hub

  • Remove the front clutch hub facia plate and inspect underlying parts.

Diagram

Inspect parts #10, #16, #17, #13 on the diagram.

Remove plates

Remove clutch plates one by one, remembering the order: First and last plates are always fibre. Steel discs go in between.

Plate order diagram

Fit back parts in this order: #13 β†’ 17 β†’ 16 β†’ 9 β†’ 10

Tightening sequence

Re-tighten clutch bolts: Start top 25%, then bottom left & right 25%, then remaining bolts to full torque. Max torque for clutch bolts = 5 ft.lbs (finger tight!).

Final steps

  • Max torque for clutch engine cover bolts: 5.5 ft.lbs (aluminium)
  • Use fresh oil, O-rings, filter, and gasket
  • Record this event in a log or back of owner’s manual to track mileage and service history

πŸ‘ Recommendation: Use high-quality 10W40 or 10W50 JASO MA2 ester oil. Avoid low-quality brands; Motul & Silkolene are best.

🏍 Ride Safe! Any questions? Leave a comment below!

[Download] GV125 + GV250 Aquila/Mirage Service Manuals & Hyosung Owners Books

DOWNLOAD GV125 GV250 AQUILA 250 MIRAGE SERVICE OWNERS MANUAL PDF BOOK HYOSUNG

Hyosung’s favourite & the first 125 twin to roll out of the factory, the GV 125, then followed the GV250 Aquila!

A printed owners manual is a must-have for each rider. But hey, the internet is here. Download the PDFs below…

Don’t forget, the GV250 plus the 125 version shares the engines with GT125 & 250cc Bikes. Some data is the same.

Here they are…!



If unsure or need help with a particular problem, post in the “Parts Help” section instead…

[How to Tutorial] [Bike Mod] GV250 GV125 GV125C Rear Luggage Rack Mod Upgrade

 


Well, of course a proper rack is always a good idea, but damn, what happened with just a few pieces of metal & tools?

Enjoy, download the book below. Shouts to the original author of this tutorial.