♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Which ones were they ? Pictures ? I mean as long as its not some “knock off” , then you won’t have to worry about being stranded again.
I want to tag this guy , hopefully he sees it! @@backchat
This is his topic below , on similar subject. I really hope he can post pictures of his plugs to see if they are all in the same pins to help you retrofit.
He did get there in the end , but he forgot to update the topic lol.
Take a look on eBay Italy, i think there is 2 sellers selling the “exact” CDI’s you are looking for , but make sure to ask them if they work first and also they must match your pictures.
GT650 might work also provided it is the same connector (since the GT’s have more variations than GV does)
However, your CDI DOES look correct because it is taken from the GT650 by Koreans , it may use less pins. The official part number is 32900HN9111
Why did they cut it ? Did it not work before ? they should have just left it intact, so i can’t tell you if it will blow up if you wired it now , just incase they mismatched the pins ?
not unless the old plug was fried up, and they got another CDI from some random seller with the plug included for the last owner to retrofit it back.
If my memory serves me well, on your harness (what your hand is grabbing)
- Blue and Green = those 2 wires => Stator Sensor/Pickup coil.
- WHITE with blue line => rear coil
- YELLOW with blue line => front coil
- Black with white line, tends to be the universal ground wire or battery negative feed (-)
- Solid Orange is either power (when key turns on) or coming from the kill switch block itself (as the EFI versions , the kill switch actually turns the ECU off)
- Yellow with Green Line ? = Possibly for the Starter Motor Solenoid ==> CDi telling it to crank once you press start
However, double check the service manuals in this forum to double confirm the wire colours i mentioned. Then put labels on them so you know which wire does what.
Not a problem John , keep us posted , hopefully we get somewhere at last!
Start a new topic on the homepage of this site, so that it becomes your own thread and we can follow it properly posting your results , pictures or anything to us to dive deeper.
Regards
Did you get caught out in heavy rain ?
Lift the tank , and look for the “BLUE SOCKET” thats along the steering VIN number or the opposite side, it might be water logged
Can you open the dash unit safely to see if its water logged inside (usually they can resist water) unless the seals around the glass gauge allowed water to invade the unit , the “blinking icons like neutral, signals, high beam, etc” will have their own independent lines in the same harness
The dash unit “Speedo REVS and MPH + FUEL GAUGE” use a red wire , maybe it broke off when it was kinked up, have a look at that too ? That’s its “main power” feed line to turn it on, it is on the same red wire going all the way to the aformention 9pin blue socket plug under the tank.
Let us know!
Duplicate topic, so i will close this one and follow you on this one below
Clocks not working – GV125 C Speedometer / Rev counter issues.
As you can see, it’s all pointing back to the pump itself. Perharps the relay is now dodgy as it was caused to start wanning due to the pump seizing up before ? – if the relay overspikes , that could trigger the ECU to get upset again.
Usually we don’t want too much current than necessary to flow along the lines , if the pump isn’t working properly or jams , it “might” be the case that the wires get additional “resistance” in the lines as the pump is resistant to keep the energy flowing in a circuit , so where to dump the extra energy in the harness ? => Relay! , it might pop or bypass itself to the ECU or injectors.
(hence it also say in pic the harness is something to look at also) but do keep an eye on the injectors though and test them according to service manual limits as they themselves may trigger c41 + c32 + c33 saying “Injector signal is interrupted continuous by 16 times or more
when ECU confirm injector running surge at each combustion
chamber, C32 or C33 is indicated.
Injector, wiring / coupler connection, power supply to the
injector.”The part in regards to pinouts for the dashboard connector will come handy for one of the members on the forum from AU,
Another guy from EU, did a pinout for the 125cc CDI , so i’ll find that post and “sticky” it up on the DIY section.
Ride safe sir!
Thank you for sharing! – Shall i edit to add “GT650 Loom ECU Pins Pinout” so its easier to search for it in future.
Nice one again!
@jtbrascal = Can you post a picture of your harness plugs and the CDI’s you have ?
Hyosung makes various CDI’s for carb bikes that’s for sure.
That one in the UK doesn’t exist as far as i know, i’ve known people “try” to modify a GSX cowl to fit a hyosung , but don’t quote me on that one as i forgot the details of the GSX bike, it could be a GSX600 i think!
However, have you considered SKIDMARX UK , they make them for Hyosungs and i had one in the past, great bit of kit for the older shape GTs , just wished they made one for the new shape GTs lol.
Skidmarx UK also make bolt on huggers for the Hyosung if that tickles your fancy too.
I’d say go for it, it is meant to also be used off-road , so the enviroment is already harsh , im sure Hyosung built the bike for that purpose. It is a little slower than a GT250 , so don’t expect wheelies or racing with it. It will be a nice winter bike. Maintenance is easier as there is far less parts than a GT bike.
Find the best off-road tyres you can get with lots of silica compound, it “might” handle snow but i would avoid snow on motorcycles if i can help it!
Parts = Sure, clutch plates, chain kit , oil filters and the usual service parts can be acquired but not sure on fairings as the plastics are rare, so look after the plastic panels lol.
On my GTR , i do mixed riding (motorway , slow roads, public streets etc)
2 days ago when i took her out , i had 2 bars left on the gauge on the digital display. This is what it took to get to 0 bars (flashing mode) below:
£5.58 Journey Cost
3.03 Litres of Fuel Used (e5 fuel only here as UK’s E10 fuel is not good for hyosungs)
30.00 Miles travelled
40 mpg (about there) remember this is me riding anywhere from 20mph (school zone) , to about 65-70mph (motorways/highways)
It also has bigger jets , so she is thirsty lol.The last 2 bars are generally consistent. I think my other GV baby seems more accurate weirdly enough, but it has shorter float arms and narrower tank space inside!
If my tank is full , then yes it will say full UNTIL maybe the tank is 3/4 left , then it starts dropping bars , optimistically until 2 bars
I will go out next time with a full tank and see how many miles it takes from FULL tank to the 1st top bar disappearing.
Hope this helps
Seems like you have a much older type lambda sensor but as it is OEM Hyosung sensor , on an OEM harness (no modifications), i can’t see a fault there because the connector fits one-way. It may be a sensor that was robbed from a GV650 that likely used alternated wire colours but the pins are the same way.
I can’t tell which brand the lambda sensor says on it, so it might have burned off.
As long as it works , i can’t worry too much on that aspect. You will pull it out and clean it , then refit with copper grease on threads if in doubt!
Hello Graham,
Take a look at your float height…. Please observe these topics below , (the 1st link has a picture of float height for our carbs)
- https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/gt125-2003-performance-issues/
- https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/float-hight-gv125/
- https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/gt125r-carburettor-float-height/
The carb float tangs are very easy to get things wrong , so you want this ….
- Carb Upside down with floats facing the sky ^ , about 7.00mm-7.5mm max
- Carb Floats facing the FLOOR (diaphragm covers facing the sky) = The floats should open to about 12-15mm (i have forgotten the factory figure but it is usually not adjusted this way but it is worth checking) , 17mm open might be too much but could be a max limit.
Let us know your progress!
Any pictures ? Or details of conditions of the items ?
Why the sell up ?
Hmmm , post a pic of the connectors on your harness. And also the o2 sensors present on the bike (there is 3 types of them made) , some are not fussed on wire colours as long as its a genuine hyosung item. Some say Bosch, Some say Hyosung, Delphi, Sentec etc.
Is it sparking now? Both plugs ?
If yes => Go halfords and grab BRADEX EASY START YELLOW CAN
Spray the air filter (not the airbox), the air filter itself , until it is slightly wet and has a strong smell of it, be outside(!!!!)
Full Choke on => Crank the bike with the throttle 5% open (not full throttle), as you want only a little bit of throttle open
As soon as it screams , open full throttle and hold it there , until you are confident to drop the revs (let go of throttle slowly), so it runs on choke for 5mins to burn off the easy start and pump fuel in to the carbs.
Let us know if that work?
Otherwise, let us know if pops bangs , or freezes up, then spins, freezes up and spins ? (like its trying to catch something)
That doesn’t look too good! – I got your email, just waiting for your reply. Someone just bought one the same time as you on ebay ? lol – I hope its you!
I presume the code has vanished now ? or take battery out for overnight then check in the morning to see if situation improves but i would 100% get a spare pump just so you don’t get stranded with that one and keep old one in shed for future spares, rare part on UK soil.
Glad to hear it runs and in time for summer, now go over everything again with a fine tooth comb 😉
Whatever the service manual says = Do So 👍
