GT650R Fuel Pump Fault
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And so the Saga continues… I now have an ECU and Loom (both came from the same 2008 donor bike). I get a spark which is great, but found the fuel pump is now not working (it was last time I checked).
Power to connection is OK, so I have taken the pump out, tested each connection that’s inside from where the main loom connect to the actual pump and all OK. So I think it’s the pump itself. I have put 12V straight to it and nothing (I assume it should fire up of a direct battery connection??). Anyone got any advise?
Another annoying discovery was that the loom I got went in great, except for the connectors for the lights and dash, whilst the same, had a different wire order and a few different colours. Did a temporary connection by taking the pins out of the plugs and temporary fixing them, all works so now going to reassemble.
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I would say the pump is toast if a direct 12v feed isn’t priming it up , or have you taken it out of the tank and confirm the strainer isn’t clogged or a wire hasnt broken off inside the pump itself. ? Usually a yellow wire inside the pump is a culprit. be wise though, fuel is explosive! 💀 Take it easy.
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I presume the code has vanished now ? or take battery out for overnight then check in the morning to see if situation improves but i would 100% get a spare pump just so you don’t get stranded with that one and keep old one in shed for future spares, rare part on UK soil.
Glad to hear it runs and in time for summer, now go over everything again with a fine tooth comb 😉
Whatever the service manual says = Do So 👍
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I presume the code has vanished now ? or take battery out for overnight then check in the morning to see if situation improves but i would 100% get a spare pump just so you don’t get stranded with that one and keep old one in shed for future spares, rare part on UK soil. Glad to hear it runs and in time for summer, now go over everything again with a fine tooth comb 😉 Whatever the service manual says = Do So 👍
Checked again this evening and the code is still there, battery was disconnected overnight. I’ll put the loom out and go through each connection.
Also I forgot, my O2 sensor had had the connector removed (which I have replaced), but do you know which wire from the sensor goes to which on the loom? My sensor has 2 white, 1 black and 1 grey, which I think are Heater (whites), Sensor (black) and Ground (Grey). But the wires on the loom are Orange w/Black Tracer, Black x2 and Green w/Red tracer.
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Hmmm , post a pic of the connectors on your harness. And also the o2 sensors present on the bike (there is 3 types of them made) , some are not fussed on wire colours as long as its a genuine hyosung item. Some say Bosch, Some say Hyosung, Delphi, Sentec etc.
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Couldn’t find any issues with the loom, see what happens when I put it back on the bike, hopefully tomoz.
For the lambda, the connector on the loom was originally white, but as the one on the sensor was missing I replaced the white with the black shown.
couldn’t see anything on the sensor, unless it’s round the back of it.
i don’t have an error related to the sensor but just wanted to check it’s right
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Seems like you have a much older type lambda sensor but as it is OEM Hyosung sensor , on an OEM harness (no modifications), i can’t see a fault there because the connector fits one-way. It may be a sensor that was robbed from a GV650 that likely used alternated wire colours but the pins are the same way.
I can’t tell which brand the lambda sensor says on it, so it might have burned off.
As long as it works , i can’t worry too much on that aspect. You will pull it out and clean it , then refit with copper grease on threads if in doubt!
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Back to the fuel pump.
Dash has c41 error. I have checked:
- the relay and also swopped with others and all seem fine
- G/W wire from relay which goes to the ecu and that’s fine, connections are good and no short.
- BBR from the relay for the fuel pump circuit and injectors and that’s fine too.
- Injectors test as per manual and they seem fine, resistance was a little out but don’t know how much the temp affects it
The pump had previously seized, could this be causing the C41 error. The error appears with or without the pump attached. Power has been disconnected for a few days and error not cleared.
The fuel pump runs. But constantly, is this correct?
I think I’ll have to get a pump and see what happens. if that doesn’t work then I fear that when the pump stalled something must have affected the ecu.
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As you can see, it’s all pointing back to the pump itself. Perharps the relay is now dodgy as it was caused to start wanning due to the pump seizing up before ? – if the relay overspikes , that could trigger the ECU to get upset again.
Usually we don’t want too much current than necessary to flow along the lines , if the pump isn’t working properly or jams , it “might” be the case that the wires get additional “resistance” in the lines as the pump is resistant to keep the energy flowing in a circuit , so where to dump the extra energy in the harness ? => Relay! , it might pop or bypass itself to the ECU or injectors.
(hence it also say in pic the harness is something to look at also) but do keep an eye on the injectors though and test them according to service manual limits as they themselves may trigger c41 + c32 + c33 saying “Injector signal is interrupted continuous by 16 times or more
when ECU confirm injector running surge at each combustion
chamber, C32 or C33 is indicated.
Injector, wiring / coupler connection, power supply to the
injector.” -
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Hey
From what i learned. It primes as soon as the key turns on.
When you press start and bike runs, the pump also runs (sort of at constant rate). It is the ECU that decides when it should turn off
I believe one of the service manuals has an Flow Chart of how the efi system works on hyosungs
But it turns off when the bike falls (roll sensor) or the owner turns keys off or ECU has error FI displayed to save itself.
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Is the bike running normally now ? and have you been out on it ?
I’d say it’s not a bad call to replace the injectors and re-check the wiring between injectors + pump back to the ECU, but i believe in regards to wiring you have been through it enough times. -
It’s runs, and will idle but does sound a bit lumpy and sometimes will die if just left ticking over for say 5mins.
not tried a test ride yet, just had her running on the drive on paddock stand.
the looms is a replacement and I have done a continuity test from each location, so I know power should get to the ecu.
I’ve tried swooping over the relays with each other and no change (can’t see it being an issue with them all).
unplugged the white plug that goes to the injectors and air box and I get all the other usual codes including the c41, then when i plug it back in the rest go just leaving c41
Plan to throw some engine treatment (wynns) in the tank too as the bike not ran proper since 2018.
One thing which is odd is when I have the white plug disconnected so it shows the other codes it has a clear c, but when 41 is shown on its own it has a line above it. As in the photo below.
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Based on that picture, i would say if it tried to say E41 , the code doesn’t exist , so C41 would be correct. Why the ECU keeps saying C41 despite a replacement good harness, will now suggest injector woes (you did say it runs rough, it won’t idle for too long).
So the injectors may just be wanning, i’d still keep an eye on the fuel pump though , as the same error applies to it including any wiring to aforementioned parts.Also check your ISCV unit with the service manual to make sure it’s working properly as it does control idling when throttle is closed (idle speed control valve / ISCV)
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Based on that picture, i would say if it tried to say E41 , the code doesn’t exist , so C41 would be correct. Why the ECU keeps saying C41 despite a replacement good harness, will now suggest injector woes (you did say it runs rough, it won’t idle for too long). So the injectors may just be wanning, i’d still keep an eye on the fuel pump though , as the same error applies to it including any wiring to aforementioned parts. Also check your ISCV unit with the service manual to make sure it’s working properly as it does control idling when throttle is closed (idle speed control valve / ISCV)
Had the injectors out tonight, definitely dirty. I could get some cleaner but thinking perhaps a new set as that would then rule out any issues.
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it’s been nearly a year since I last updated on the GTR woes….
shortly after my last post the bike stopped sparking, it was running on the stand, and fizzled out. Never managed to sort it out and due to having another bike, the 650 got pushed to the back of the garage.
Till now….
Recap, bike was running rough with C41 error. Had a new fuel pump, wiring loom and cleaned the injectors. Ran but then it stopped.
Today I managed to get a replacement ECU, I put it on, turned the key and got c21 error. I then checked the Pick Up connector, all looked ok, and Ohms are fine. Reconnected and still c21. I tried to start the bike and the c21 cleared! But c41 replaced it!
noted the battery is now low so it’s on charge and will see what happens with a full battery tomorrow.
if I don’t get to the bottom of it this time then she’ll have to go :(.
might just try a replacement relay, even though I have swopped then around.
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Clutch switch. side stand switch. right switch gear. ecu connector plug. these were our issue on a customer 2017 GV i had to fix. no fi errors. But i suspect sparking coils + caps if ecu primes the pump
clutch switch is new, side stand switch removed, right switch seems to work (cuts pump of if flicked), cleaned ecu plug. Might have another coil somewhere. Just wouldn’t have thought they would both go at the same time.
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Clutch switch. side stand switch. right switch gear. ecu connector plug. these were our issue on a customer 2017 GV i had to fix. no fi errors. But i suspect sparking coils + caps if ecu primes the pump
clutch switch is new, side stand switch removed, right switch seems to work (cuts pump of if flicked), cleaned ecu plug. Might have another coil somewhere. Just wouldn’t have thought they would both go at the same time.
Fingers crossed it is just a case of either the coils have gone dud , or if the coils work but it is the “Plug Caps” that have gone dead, so the spark plug isn’t getting anything from coils due to dead caps.
I’ve experience enough EFi Hyosungs in the flesh to know, if i hear the pump prime on the key , it would usually mean it is ready to start , i could have a dead heating sensors but bike still tries to fire up then red FI light comes on with a code saying “Heater sensor element faulty” etc , as long as the ECU works is the main key , other small parts are just a case of going through them one by one.
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That was my thought with the pump running. Just odd it died and then no spark on either. Once I manage to test it I’ll reply, currently requiring an old CB350 for the father in law and also need to balance the carbs on the CBR so might be a week.
Take it out for a spin when done. Good old Honda 🙂
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It runs! Rough, but it’s running. I took the coil off, tried another and it sparked, refitted the original and it was weak. Ran some emery over the contacts and its helped. No idea why it stopped though.
So now it’s running I have decided to part ways. I’ll put a for sale post on the forum and you’ll see it on FB.
Thanks for everyone’s help over the past year, its been a great learning experience and project.
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Can you believe she stopped running whilst someone was viewing her! Plugs were wet with fuel and black, found both hose that go from the throttle bodies to the air pressure sensors had splits in!. Hoping that’s why it was running so poor, I must have stretched them as they were very tight. But then wouldn’t start once I replaced the hoses, turns out the starter had stopped working (overworked over the past year!!), got new brushes on the way as one is down to nothing and fingers crossed she’s then run again.
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