♠️ M77
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Ahhhh, you need to do the following
- Lift the tank, and put it away safely (mind the fuel level sensor cable!)
- Then look at the LEFT SIDE of the airbox , you will see a 3 pin plug that is GREEN, ORANGE, BLACK (as my memory recalls)
Disconnect it.
Then go find Allen Key (6mm) , and Allen Key BIG (12mm)
Remove the front wheel.
- Now get grease (Putoline Race Grease is very recommended or similar product that beats it) =>? Grease the sensor cause water , dirt, and spin stress will dry out out and go dead!
- Fit your new sensor on to the wheel (watch the METAL HOOKS) that are supposed to go on the wheel indents (you will see it with your own eyes what I mean)
- Make sure the plastic tab on the speed sensor is FACING REAR WHEEL (GOING TO THE BACK—->)
Or in otherwords look at the “GAP TAB” that looks like this ||___|| , make sure that part is facing 3pm direction towards the backwheel.
This tab is to make sure it hits the “TAB” that is on your fork leg (You must look for the tab on your fork leg to understand what i am saying)
You will see why , the TAB on the fork leg is to stop the speed sensor from spinning forward as the wheel rotates or it may pull cable and it will be a very very very bad day if the cable entangles itself on to the wheel while riding
I can’t stress it.
- Next up , again make sure everything is aligned properly on the wheel and fit the wheel back inside.
- Double check #3 to #5 again!!!!! ^^^^^
- Guide the cable with zip tie nicely up to the brake hose until it ends up inside the frame where the airbox is
- Connect the sensor
- Turn Key on.
- Have a friend hold the bike safely and rise front wheel up.
- spin it hard , spin , spin, spin = He will tell you if its now saying 5mph etc…. (Then the sensor is working)
- Spin again, check everything is safe , don’t overtighten things but just make it safe enough to ride. Use mechanic to verify or your own wisdom if you already did this before on past bikes.
- tuck the cables under theairbox nicely so the rain weather doesn’t try to rot them. Use contact cleaner and also ACF50 to stop future rust inside every single plug you can find
DO NOT USE WD40! – It will go on fire! — Just acf50 is allowed to protect every plug and naked wire you see in the bike even your coils, hell hide your brake disc and dress her up in ACF50 all over even the exhaust , engine , etc …. It will burn off a sweet smell and it has a shiny layer of protection (for a little while!)
Main key is making your sure your electric plugs do not rot this coming winter!
Close your bike up and ride safe.
Here is one more picture found for vacuum and fuel hose diagram , i hope this helps. It is not for a Hyosung but another bike that uses similar Mikuni Carbs and our same Mikuni DF52 series fuel pump. Other parts can be ignored if they do not exist on your bike./
EG. USA Models = They have a strange “Charcoal Canister” (some kind of emissions cleaner) , and our UK Models do not have it but we have simple Mikuni AIS Pumps (that draw air from airbox to the exhaust for EU emissions control etc) , so different continents have different ways of emissions control, so not everything you see in these pictures will apply to your model.
These bikes do not care about these emissions control devices. (Less is better, means less stupid pipes everywhere lol) however, if there is law in your country to have it present, then don’t remove it.
I found an old image of the carb showing the “PORT” where the person’s finger is , i believe (my brain is tired at 8pm as i write this) i think it goes to cannister or it simply overflow to the road (incase bike falls or have accident, the carb will dump fuel out of those pipes you see in RED COLOUR below)
Hello,
I downloaded your images and posted them here for others to see , (future reference) , i changed title , so that people find this topic easier.
Moving on…..Can you please try these diagrams below and see if you have sucess and tell us which picture below was better ?
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Carb model or EFi? ill see if i can order one for you
hey , i wish i did , i will next time
do you have pics of your set up and i will see if you are doing ok
You will need to open your clutch cover, i think your springs may have popped or plates exploded , so do that and take pictures of what you find ?
Regards
Light Green = RIght Turn Signal
Solid Black = left turn signal ,
Yellow with Black Stripe (possibly RPM or Fuel Level, confirm your fuel sensor is same wire colour first!) ,
black with white stripe = Ground / Negative 12-V ,
Orange = Live power to dash and lights ,
Brown = Temp Sensor (650cc only) ,
Solid Yellow = Possibly lights (High Beam switch is activated by you or FLASH BUTTON) ,
Blue = Unsure yet , need to read again
It has been a long time since i fixed wiring plugs under the dashboard, i usually fix the “Blue Side” due to water rust etc or previous owner neglects
I will try to find an old cable for the all black dash and send photo (maybe Sunday or next week)
Hey Steve,
Clutch Switch will cut sparks off anytime if it plays up, I’ve experienced this myself more than once on my GTR bikes , so much so , that even today we have had 2 orders in wales & dorset for clutch switches to be sent for GTR bikes.
It would be wise to replace it and get 2 of them (1 for spare) , if your local dealer can’t help , just email us.
Keep in mind, ST7s have longer bars than GTs and GTR’s , so don’t try to use their switches as it simply will be 50% too short! – Some terminals may change too!
I would not recommend bypassing it, as fake neutrals “can” happen , so you want to guarantee yourself the clutch is squeezed in before starting.
Also it is very important the side stand switch is Bypassed! (the most annoying object on the bike!) , bridge the wires , and tape it very hard so there is no chance of water invasion , lest it rots the wire and you’re back to square one.
Regulator = I pray the regulator is actually doing 13.5 during idle and 14.5v during 5k revs , otherwise , time to upgrade to shingdens! (Like this one) , the stator too.
Carb bikes can get away with a poorly reg / stator for a short while, but EFI bikes are power thirsty (with zillion sensors all over the place with a fuel pump that draws a lot of amps!) , you want to make sure the charge system is future proofed. Less costly than replacing a delicate fried ECU and ST7 ECU’s are too difficult to buy.
They could have twisted the strainer to make it is facing down , good job there!
Keep the old black pump for spares!
Good to see you back on the road, enjoy the mountain passes!
Try to follow my old reply above ^ and report back if you can
Hey, not that we know of. And in fairness, we rarely see issues with the oem springs (that is with us fixing customer bikes in general)
Why would you want to change the OEM valves ? Just curious.
Keep her! = If you came this far; we can possibly rebuild it for you in regards to fueling woes. We’re up north west UK , send an email to us for more.
Can you post pictures of:
Your current display (The dashboard changed a few times over the years including EFI and pre-EFi (very late carb models) ,
The plugs from the display
the plugs from the main wiring harness
I will tell you what each wire color usually does.
Proud of you for restoring the GV650 , it’s a shame it was abandoned in that state , it would have been better it stayed in a garage but alas , even dry spaces can make rubber parts brittle and snap , like the drive belt! let alone sit for years , but i digress.
Okay, do you have access to a compression tester ? – Can you do a cold crank for 5 seconds to make sure both pistons have good compression in the first place ?
And yes you can post many pictures , and myself or someone will advise if your carbs look good and you have routed everything right in regards to vacuum and fuel.
Usually “silver port” = vacuum and “gold port” is fuel input. (and sometimes there is arrow ==> ==> showing direction of fuel flow so it doesn’t retrograde)
I had not removed the clutch baskets or flywheel yet. I’m starting to think it was either 1st or 2nd gear because I remember it happening from downshifting. Afterwards getting into 1st gear was kind of difficult. Unfortunately I decided to junk it because getting parts in the United states for a hyosung is insanely hard, and there’s lots of more parts and issues that need to be rectified. I’ll be able to get some of my money back and move onto something else. I really did enjoy the time with my hyosung for the short time I did and I would keep it for the fact it’s very hard to find parts in the USA for it. I’m bummed but for $800 im not crushed.
Keep her, there is literally a 650 engine on fleebay USA , and just swap it over. Then you can keep the old motor for spares. Dare i say it, you will find more of a personality from a hyo than an SV650! lol – It sounds biased i know!
Jesus , that looks like something has seriously gone wrong with the bottom crank 😢😢😢😢
Have you removed the flywheel and the clutch baskets so you can use a torch or camera-scope (with torch) down any holes inside the engine to look for more places of where those broken pieces are found.
I think you might need a new crank or gearbox!
i am unsure of the Pistons , Rods , or cylinder valves until you look inside.
Hey , welcome . I just have to ask few questions to gather data from you.
- What ECU does it have ? Sentec? Daewoo? or Delphi (Post a picture of it , if you can)
- Have when you turn kill switch red button ON (killed) – Does the FI light come on or CHE error on the display?
And if you turn the kill switch OFF (bike is good to go) – Does the fuel pump prime (huming noise) ? - Is the Neutral light ON? KickStand switch is bypassed (the kickstand switch is that annoying it causes issues)
- CLutch Handle Bar Switch (Temporarily bypass it and see what happens) = I would NOT bypass it forever as I’ve myself experience false starts when the bike was still in gear and it fell , this was years ago anyway, even the Kawasaki i had was no better! So i prefer the bike knows i’ve squeezed the clutch in before starting and slowly letting go incase of fake neutrals.
Drain fuel from the tank => Look to see if the fuel pump strainer is clogged up ? (although you cleaned it before, check one more time)
Do you get bright blue sparks from each coil ?
Ever did a cold compression test on the engine and tell us the PSI markings ? (It could help to know this especially)
– Both plugs out. Injectors disconnected.
– Crank the bike for 5 seconds => Read each cylinder for compression readings and tell us.I do hope its something small (that we have both missed) but all i have said above , is usually common causes.
do you think the wires in the connector could be loose.? Kind regards Connor
It does happen and contact cleaner works a treat
