♠️ M77
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I would say the pump is toast if a direct 12v feed isn’t priming it up , or have you taken it out of the tank and confirm the strainer isn’t clogged or a wire hasnt broken off inside the pump itself. ? Usually a yellow wire inside the pump is a culprit. be wise though, fuel is explosive! 💀 Take it easy.
So this dash you are showing us now is the replacement one ? If so i would return it to the seller and tell them it isn’t working properly.
The “FI” light must come on next to the neutral sensor,
Hold clutch in (sensor trigger) and let go
Press Kill Switch On & Off on the big red button
Put it in gear so the neutral light goes out and hold clutch in ?
Put it in neutral so the N light comes back & double check the side-stand is actively bridged/bypassedCan you let us know if pressing “start” , does anything to dimm the display or so much as hear clicks from the starting-solenoid ball thats next to the battery tray ?
Dont lose faith , it does sound frustrating what you are going through , like you i do also pray we don’t have to replace the harness and matching ECU but…..keep an eye out for local marketplace for a wrecked 650 that has a harness & matching ECU (Some ECU’s require specific harnesses)
Yes when the bike cranks up (throttle closed) , you will see it go inside the fuel filter if its a clear fuel filter (not the cloudy ones that are hard to see)
Then , make sure the “pump” next to the battery tray is connected the right way as per tutorial on this thread.
When cranking the bike, see if the “hose” going to the carb shoots fuel out in to a bucket next, let us know how it comes out.
Have the tank away from the bike => Then go somewhere safe with it, open the tap to the “RESERVE” or “ON” setting, see how fast the fuel flows in to a bucket ,
Does it come out ? And is it full blown or just drips (ie. 2 drips per second etc…)
Solved: used chemical metal/epoxy to secure the inner plate to the tank! Apply your product, let it cure for 24 hours.
Seems to have done the trick until I can source/afford a new tank
Just in case anyone else runs into this issue.
Thanks for sharing this! = But keep an eye though! – Don’t loose the carby tank either. very rare things.
You will need to disconnect the neutral sensor to see if that takes the light away ? = If yes, then issue is with the neutral sensor, it would be wise to replace with a correct one as Hyosung makes various neutral sensors. Depending on the year of your bike. The “carb models” have 1 dot , and EFI models have 6 or 5 dots because the ECU reads what gear you are in until you circle back to neutral status.
Take the fuel pump out , and see if the strainer is OK = or post pictures here ?
Otherwise, the switching relay is needed (it is better than a simple 30A fuse) , like what you see at this store.
Usually cuts or bogging issues tend to be based off the fuel pump, if need be, it might need a new one. It happens (especially old pumps start to show their age and don’t perform as well as they did in their prime)
Disconnect the battery for 24hrs , and follow the service manual on this forum (manuals section) = > trick the ECU to give you a code and tell us what it is.
As this is ongoing, keep us posted , we shall get to the root of it.
Fi (not F-One) , usually is pump , ecu , injectors.
In the meantime, go to halfords and only , i mean only get this product exactly (ignore the sales guy) and pour the whole thing inside your tank (whole bottle) , as this will be an aggressive mix to your E5 fuel. This stuff should make its way to your injectors and start cleaning them out. I highly trust it.
The intake pipes won’t be a problem 5% is loss of power is like 1-2bhp but it is not a big deal, i would focus in getting more air via an improved intake like K&N Catridge box or try BMC air filter (Since you are close to italy , find a local distributor that imports BMC filters as they are a little better than K&N, just a little – Just ask them for Carb Model GT250/GT650)
Exhaust headers = it is possible it will be restricting exhaust flow a little bit! = I would try to get OEM GT250 headers and use a full size muffler/silence with DB Killer
We don’t know the muffler you have, so i am guessing at this point, but yes 125cc headers will need changing so it breathes more easier at higher rpm.
Do you have K&N upgrade air filter ? – It is not good to ride without airbox but…. you can use 125cc airbox and 125cc intake pipes , they are just longer pipes and GT250 pipes are just shorter and wider but less with 125cc intake pipes you lose maybe 1-5% power , it is not a big issue. And 140 km is usually the “safe” max speed a factory model 250cc will do, otherwise bigger revs will make valves start “floating” , and premature wear/damage happens soon.
I think maybe you need more air ? So if you have stock air filter, it is a good idea to use K&N
No pod filters , Hyosungs really hate them. you will be in more hell lol.
Well done! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
And yes send us an email below with your prices, then we will ask a client of ours if they are interested or not as he has a project he wants to build late summer
That is very rich!!
How about this ?
- Look at carb slide needles on diaphragm, and (click here)
Put your needles to “MIDDLE” setting (this is factory) - Go back to Factory 92.5 and 95 jets mains, to see if this improves mixture
- Get new plugs again as those ones will be fouled, even if cleaned up, they won’t spark as good anymore
Or check you have no blockage in the air system (check air filter , or “test” with a STOCK NEW air filter first to eliminate possible air issues / chocking up at high revs with not enough air flowing)
Pilot Jets = I hope they are size 20 and make sure mixture screws 2.5 FULL turns maximum from closed. Leave it there forever.
Is it possible to do a compression test ?
You will need to remove both spark plugs out, crank bike at full throttle for 5-10 secs max, then report back with some figures you got.
If we can start there first, it makes it very easier to diagnose fueling issues if we get the engine out of the way first (since it is the engine that needs to compress well to lift the fuel out in to the carbs)
Hey and welcome , are you able to elaborate more ?
Good to hear. Follow up incase they forget they can be busy at times! Ring the phone off the hook 😉
Fingers crossed.
Intake O-Rings are leaking or you have a rip inside the rubber intake pipes.
Airbox is not sitting on carb properly or you have a damage on airbox rubbers.
Idle Adjuster needs to go down to 1800 rpm max hot.
2500 rpm will damage piston rings due to excessive idling and heat goes up. The oil cooler is too small.
Get any GV250 or GT250 oil cooler in your country and it will love you
Go to TUTORIALS on this forum and study how to remove carbs without damage to intake pipes. Then you can open carbs
Check for jet sizes and clean them too even pilot jets
Check float height (search float height in this forum ad multiple topics about it)
Use E5 fuel in your country (eg. Shell VPower RON 97+)
Get fresh cr8e stock spark plugs. Old ones may be fouled now even if you clean them they may be internally damaged.
Could be fake scam website i cant verify. We generslly avoid blue & white websites. We dont even so business with them including wholesale, hyosung eu, etc
Ask your dealer for their importer name or possibly Kymco Germany or Siri Suzuki Germany
If not sure. Ask for Sima France 👍
Get the Factory Line coolant ,then again Motul is generally recommended. Usually if wanting to get local things, try a local hyosung dealer who will get parts from K&V Moto or SIMA FRANCE as 2 official EU importers
Tell you what, check the oil level when both wheels on ground and bike is 100% straight, give it a minute and tell us if its at the F mark or L- mark
Clean the area, run the bike for 5mins warm up, rev it a few times , see if anything seems out of the clutch arm ?
You are more than welcome!
For stator , make sure to drain oil first and slowly open stator cover gently because Hyosung changed flywheels and stators in later models! This is so we get the correct one but also , sometimes older bikes have destroyed engines and new owners put newer engines confusing things more (ie. 2008 GV now has a 2017 engine inside but new owner thinks its still a 2008 until he sees stator and flywheel has changed lol)
if unsure , just let us know before next order.
If the jets don’t come, just message us and we will order directly from EBC ourselves.
2.5 turns each pot and leave it there forever (regardless of mods) 3 turns (ish) is OEM.
The slide needle mod has better effect than messing with mixtures.
Are you 100% sure it is the “clutch” arm itself that has a seal leaking out of it ?
Not your valve covers dripping oil down ?Someone just paid for rocker cover gaskets , i am sure it is not you lol.
If not, send us an email and we will get a seal for you as long as we know exactly which one it is in your email
- Look at carb slide needles on diaphragm, and (click here)
