♠️ M77
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Manuals should be downloadable in the forum’s “manuals” section, otherwise try the backup site “ManualsLib” website.
Cut the yellow box off, that’s very suspicious!
The “Black & White stripe” of your wire from the harness goes to “Battery Terminal Negative”
Then it splits UP to also have an extra wire going down to the CLUTCH COVER (to give ground for your spark plugs and starter motor)Do you get anything from the Fi light ?
Also, do you have this product in your country ? It is VERY VERY recommended…
Have “half-tank” of petrol (E5 is recommended, because E10 isn’t good) and use 1 full bottle of Formula Gold in your tank.
Ride until the bike has 1-bar of fuel left , this will try to clean the fuel pump and the injectors for you.
Sometimes higher revs , can usually mean the fuel system is clogged but let’s try that first…. If it did not do much, we can progress to find out if there is an electrical part that needs attention
Sprocket Nut socket size is 27mm , and i agree that you need the rear brake pressed down hard with chain fitted to bike. Keep in neutral as not to damage gearbox
Torque for is 60-80nm for nut.
Use “PERMANENT/SEMI-PERMANENT” loctite on the thread , that can handle high heat , make sure the shaft thread is clean!
Also make sure shaft does not have damaged thread, because if a nut flies off, the sprocket will grind on the shaft thread , which could be an timely job to split engine and replace shaft again.
Folding washer to nut = I fold twice , and I make sure the washer lips are hugging the nut tight and flat… I do this for every customer bike.
Post up a picture ? I believe Hyosung updated it on various EFi models even the 250cc, I could not find other member-written books to modify them
Welcome to the forum!
Good to see more of Korea coming to the forum! – We have other Korean members here, so spread the word 😉
if you have any pictures of your ride , you can share them here ot start your own project journal.
Appreciate the love & enjoy your stay! ❤
I have the same problem with a 2013 gv650 (aquila) efi with Delphi ecu
We did not get a reply on the OPs topic to give any feedback.
Start your own new topic explaining in more detail what the issues are if possible. No 2 hyosungs are the same (some are abused and some wete just neglected for years = different solutions)
thanks
It will be the speed sensor that’s faulty , so a new one should immediately resolve it for you
It does happen!
Can you upload video to Instagram or Youtube or OneDrive/Google drive etc….
Take a video of the problem so we can see , It helps me understand better ?
Orange wire is normally 12V from the harness. Is there 12V from the harness
And when you say speedo isnt working do you mean the “whole” instrument cluster turns on but the speed is 0mph/kmh when riding?
Everything else lights up?
If you have LED indicators , you will need 3Pin LED relay.
If LED relay is faulty ; replace it.
If you have standard bulbs, (original hyosung indicators, then let us know?)
Some unknown sendors will be reversed saying EMTPY on the dash when the tank is actually full, i have experienced this myself. So Hyosung seems to be dead set on their dashboards making sure empty starts at at the base of the tank, as the float goes , the bars on the dash correspond to it.
either way based on my extensive tests of OEM hyosung senders, the ohms in this topic must match (or close to ) whichever sensor you would like to affix to the tank
Hope this helps
Toyota Hilux is common in asian countries where Hyosung is also present as alternative senders.
did the seller confirm the ECU was verified working ? Does he have a harness also that you can buy to test ?
As you are aware , this shop sells stator and regulator kits up to 2016 but we will make a special kit for your model. Exactly what you see in the 2016 pages , we will make the 2017-2018 era because they use different terminals and different stators indeed. Just send an email ready
There isn’t an aftermarket kit for 2017+ models , so I would be surprised if another shop beat us to it.
Otherwise, if wanting to stay OEM , you can always buy another OEM regulator from your local dealer and keep it spare , always watch for voltage changes and always test stator unit.
Hi Hannah,
Follow this topic , there is a picture there.07hyosung Gv650 fuel and vacuum lines ?? Need help connecting in order.
Try to compare with that and update your progress on this topic to see if it was a success or not.
Hyosung did not put any fuel routing diagrams in their service books , that I know of it! So we have to do a member / community-driven effort to help ourselves on this one!
Try to find any universal set of bar grips that have “open ends” , the rubber grips from the SV650 will even fit the GT250R (not the plastic throttle tube i should say)
Okay do that again and count the blinks…
Eg….
10 blinks – pause – 3 blinks – pause – 5 blinksShe will repeat the sequence again.
She said the code was 10-3-5 , let us know and I will advise what that code is.
Hey Joshua,
It sounds stupid and probably a chore but this is the “guaranteed” way to be sure it isn’t the engine itself. Can you go to a nearby garage and ask them to do this:
– Let engine warm up for 15mins max (unless you ride there hot)
– Lift Tank (remove rear spark plugs)
– Drop the 2 screws holding the front oil cooler and let it hang down (don’t disconnect pipes)
– Remove front spark plugsTake pictures and send us (we gotta see the sides (burnt threads? and the middle of the plugs (rich vs lean)) Be sure to note which is front or rear.
Then before he puts everything back inside ===> Tell him to get a compression tester with a METAL pipe (flexi hoses are crap)
Put the Tester inside the front engine plug hole => Crank your bike at full throttle for 5 seconds ===> Tell us the PSi
Do the same for rear ==> Tell us the PSI
Come back to us and I will advise further…..
In the meantime ,
- Have you considered adjusting your clutch incase its slipping ? (click here)
- Have you ever changed the clutch plates ?
(Remember the engine makes the power first, then sends it to the clutch to convert power to your wheels)
So old plates may need attention (click here and read where it says “symptons / how to measure” ) (Yes that includes heat fatigued springs.
Have a vernier caliper to measure things for accuracy (our eyes are deceptive, so using a measuring tool is best) - Do you have a 520 kit from us ? = If yes, ignore this sentence
Or else , if you have stock chain (factory 428 , then count the teeth on both sprockets and tell us)
Lets look at the air system
- When it is running => Spray the intake pipes and airbox areas = If revs change, you have a leak which affects power. Then click here for the “O-Rings” first
Also here is a tutorial on how to remove the airbox (click here) and (click here too) , use these guides because the 125GV intake pipes are rare as hell. So you don’t want to damage them.
- Sounds silly, if the air filter is more than least 5,000 miles old , open it and look at it, if its dirty , then it is probably time to replace then (yes you will need new plugs again) (Air vs Spark vs Fuel , which fuel we will get to in a moment) = A cloggy air filter will make the bike feel like its on a leash at higher speeds.
Let’s go to the exhaust system.
I do custom GV builds for customers and trust me when i say this …. the OEM system makes the best power. If the bike has “Short Shorts” , “Slash Cuts” , “Shorties” , any kind of custom exhaust whatsoever, you will have a a lot hell as I don’t know why yet but there is something about the OEM GV exhaust system making the most power out of any custom exhaust combination i have tried. Believe me , I have tried!
250cc can get away with some custom pipes if done right, but the 125 simply wants its factory. The GT125R / GT125 will be fine with straight pipes and a big scorpion can, but a GV125 ? Nope! –
Try an OEM exhaust if you can ? (here is a stock one we have from a 250cc which will probably help?) and if you need the mount (here it is too)
If you have a standard exhaust system already, then that’s good, check it for any blows!
Something about the GV125 specifically needing as much backpressure as possible to maintain the torque, so it has momentum to build speeds up as revs go up.
Even if its not the exhaust system in the end, it still helps the bike overall in the long run.
LEO VINCE exhausts for GV125 are very expensive but they do lose a little bit of power to be fair but they sound nice and they supply the baffles for it.
Well, i saved fuel for last , it’s a bit of a chore this one but if you get it right, you won’t go here ever again.
- Carbs – Find out what size Pilot Jets you have and i will advise if it helps to downsize or stay at the stock size.
- Carbs = Find out what size MAIN JETS you have and tell us. Clean both pilot jets and the main jets.
- Carbs = Try and get 3x cans of carb cleaner at halfords , and use all 3 cans to blow every single hole you can find inside the carb , believe me , finish all 3 cans, she will THANK YOU!
- Carbs = If the slide Needles are stock or lean , then click here for a tutorial on how to adjust the slide needles to enrich the “mid-range to full-range”
If the slides look bad or badly scored , replace them! – Stickyness during rides will give the symptons of a bike stuck at certain revs and throws off the whole mixture. - Carbs = Check the “Choke Rail” moves back and forth free , a sticky rail isn’t good for anything. So use a recommended grease such as “PUTOLINE RACE GREASE” and use it to grease the outside of the carb for any moving parts (good for winter!) and also the “idle adjust likes to seize hard, so grease it up.
- Float height = Important, so make sure it is 7mm (dead on) , if unsure , please check this topic here and look for the picture of float height,.
If in doubt , replace floats & get a proper carb rebuild kit too. (includes new float needles and float seats to match) - Since the floats will be out anyway, clean the “mesh cone” that sits under the gold float seat, as this will make sure fuel flows in to the carb nicely with no obstructions or debris coming from the tank or clogged fuel filter.
Fuel system part 2 = Yes, its going no where faster without adequate fuel (more power = more fuel)
- Tap – Get a bucket , open the tap in to a bucket , if fuel comes out fast. The tap is OK.
Tap – If on the “OFF” position = fuel still leaks out, replace tap! (hydrolocking can damage crank) - Fuel Tank CAP = yes , where your key goes to open the tank cap. It can fail to vent, sometimes the bike rides for so long, the tank literally fails to vent, and the bikes forced to die down in speed, due to venting issues from the tank.
It is NOT wise to do this but , but on private land away from civilization , ride with the tank cap open, if its better = replace the cap! Check fuel tank for WATER also, if the cap doesn’t seal properly , you will find your E5 fuel is now pretty much like trying to burn water which isnt good for the cylinder walls at all and you will end up replacing engine pistons.
- Speaking of E5 = Make sure you use just that. There is no advise out there to use e10, it’s a juice from hell. E5 forever.
- We have approached the fuel filter = If it faces the wrong way , it will cause issues. If it “looks” dirty inside , just replace it here.
- Strange enough but kinks can stop the bike reaching its full potential, so make sure fuel lines are routed properly with minimal kinks but here is a tutorial to double check and compare.
But all in all, start with engine compression first , it is that crucial, do what i said bit by bit, you will have your bike back to its glory
Sometimes it might end up being something small and stupid that was overlooked (welcome to bike life!)
We can try , it depends if our UK shipping companies will go there.
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