Hyosung 2013 GT650R EFI Dash not working and not starting
- This topic has 33 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 3 weeks ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
Hey guys!
Im new here, but having the exact same problems that another member Julian had been having. I picked up a 2013 GT650R which supposedly has 1200kms only (cant verify that cause dash isnt working). My symptoms are:
LCD screen on dash doesnt work but neutral light, indicators, highbeam light etc do.
Headlights dont work (not sure if bulb or electrical issue)
Bike cranks over but wont start (I can’t hear fuel pump prime)
The previous owner told me he replaced coil leads, starter motor, spark plugs and fresh fuel in the tank. I’ve checked the fuse box underneath the seat and that looks good. Currently waiting on a brand new battery which should arrive in a few days so cannot check fuel pump relay/ other components until then. I know my turn signal relay works since my indicators work and i’m going to swap that out with my fuel pump relay just to rule out a bad fuel pump relay. If that doesn’t make fuel pump prime, should I put 12v to my fuel pump to hear it prime? What should I check next? Stator? My mechanical knowledge isnt the greatest but im here to learn lol. Also, I have 2 plugs that arent plugged into anything. After reading Julians topic and the replies from marcel and lazarbeam, it looks like the 2 pin is the dealer plug and the 4 pin is missing a relay just like julian was? Weird how we’re both missing the same relay, right?
-
Hey,
Let’s try the basics , can you turn the key on and off 3 times and count the number of times the red Fi light blinks ?
Eg. 10 blinks , pause , 3 blinks , pause , 5 blinks , pause 2 blinks.Translates to 10-3-5-2
Make sure the red button is pressed down on the killswitch gear (Kill switch is OFF / Bike ready to crank)
This will confirm first and foremost the ECU is working or not. If it is, it will tell us what the error is before the fuel pump primes. The fuel pump & injectors are directly controlled by the ECU
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
I’m not currently at home with my bike and also waiting for new battery to arrive. Current ETA till I can get back to diagnosing the issue is 2-3 days.
In the meantime i’m trying to gather as much information as possible so if one thing doesn’t work I can hop to the next thing. Very eager to give that key thing a shot. So with the kill switch pressed down (ready to start position) turn the key on and off 3 times and if the red Fi switch blinks, count how many times. If the red Fi switch doesn’t blink, my ECU is 100% cooked?
-
If the Fi light doesn’t blink at all , then i would remove the tank and get access to the harness where it connects to the dash & also the right kill switch block, clean up the pins as much as you can to make a very good connection at the front and even behind the dashboard.
Also the dashboard has a “mini” harness that joins the “main frame” harness , start from the dash going to the harness = the RED wire is what turns on the LCD glass.
Open the dash unit and look for signs of damage.
The RPM tacho (RPM needle) must go UP then down , as soon as you turn the key on ?
Then also go to the ECU, disconnect the plugs carefully (it could be a 2plug ECU or single plug ECU = 650 has had multiple ECU changes over the years by Hyosung until settling down with Delphi ECU) -> The connections to the ECU play a critical role too.
Update us with your progress until then.
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
Okay, i’ve been working on it for 6+ hours today lol, here’s the update:
1- Fi light doesn’t turn on when turning key on and off 3 times with the kill switch in both positions just to make sure. Tried turning it on and off 5 times etc, def just doesn’t work.
2- Followed the “mini” harness from the dash to the “main” harness and all wires seem to look intact. I am yet to test them with a multimeter
3- Opened the dash unit, all looks good. Please see photos attached
4- RPM needle doesn’t move at all when turning key, or attempting to crank etc.
5- Disconnected ECU and checked connections to it, all looks good.
6- Put power to the fuel pump relay to make it prime, fuel pump primes when i do this and also attempted to start while doing this… nothing.
7- Checked spark plugs. Both spark plugs are brand new but NOT sparking. Checked the wiring to the spark plug wire with a multimeter and no power is getting to that.
8- All fuses have power EXCEPT headlight fuse. This fuse isn’t blown, the actual spot where the fuse plugs in has no power to it. Makes sense why my headlights don’t work.
9- Checked all filters, look good.
Based off all this, I think the next step is to order an ECU right? Am i wrong in saying that the reason my fuel pump doesn’t prime when key is switched on and spark plugs don’t get spark is because of the ECU? I can order a brand new one online and if it’s not the problem… return it? Fuel pump relay and fuse are fine and the pump itself works, My spark plugs and coil packs are brand new but still no spark…
-
G’day Jonathon, your bike looks in good shape. Marcel & these have the knowledge to get that up and running. Your step by step problem solving is the go. If cash is no problem i’d buy an ECU but it may just be broke/shorted/disconnect wiring. I wonder why your headlight has no power to it at the fuze? That seems a bit odd hey? Those lights need power to glow. And a fuze without power is just extra weight 🙂
-----LaserBeam---->
-
G’day Laser,
Ive already placed an order on an ECU. I’ve got a strong feeling that’s the issue. Spoke to the seller aswell and agreed that I can return it if it doesn’t fix my issue as long as he tests it and it’s still working. So no big deal! Worst part now, the waiting game 😫
-
Okay, I was working on cosmetic issues today and figured id make a checklist on the issues with the bike while we wait for the ECU.
Headlight fuse has no power to it
Tail light only turns on if i manually put power to the relay. Brake light works regardless
Dash LCD screen doesnt work
High beam light doesnt light up on dash
Spark plugs no spark (brand new spark plugs and ignition coil leads)
Fuel pump not priming (working when i put power to relay)Im pretty sure these are all the issues. Im sure im not gonna plug a new ECU in and its going to fix everything I just listed… right?
-
The whole injection system (Pump + Sparks + Stator = ECU controlled.) (If the stator is toast, the ECU won’t allow sparks to happen)
Fuel Pump draws a LOT of power , so it will have its own 4-pin relay yes. OR 30A fuse (depends on harness part number) = Hyosung did many subtle changes on their EFI machines so there will be a box that says GREEN 30A or simply 4-Pin Relay (20/30A)
Headlights = Right Switch Gear (very early EFI models or carb models only) , Left Switch Gear and 4 Pin Relay
Tail Light = Sometimes depending on the “main” harness , it will share the headlight relay. So if the headlights are on, so should the tail light. I’ve done this a few times on a 2017 machine, as soon as i took off the main headlight relay , the tail light turned off.
High Beam Button (left switch gear) & “yellow Pass Button” on left switch gear = All share the same yellow wire going in to the main harness and the same yellow wire is going to the LCD dash to trigger the blue icon that “H1” bulb is active (high beam)
Meter on “ground” or battery negative and yellow wire ==> Press high beam or Pass Button => 12v should be active on the yellow line at the H1 bulb.
Make sure all bulbs are 55w max. (I’ve seen owners put 100w 24v, and everything just cooked slowly)
Low beam should be always on as soon as the key is turned regardless if the dash is present or not, so this will be a bulb , harness issue or relay. 12v needs to be on the bulb connectors ofcourse. The low beam also serves as “day time running running” , much like morden cars. Older Hyosung carb models didn’t have this feature, we actually could turn the lights ON / OFF via the right switch
EFi = changed now, the right switch doesn’t turn headlights off , it just triggers the “hazard” lights hence the Triangle symbol now.
Brake Lights = They are only triggered by the levers only. (brake pedal switch & hand lever switch)
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
-
Update: Realised I don’t need to take stator off and a simple test using a multimeter should indicate if she’s good. I found a picture from marcel I believe from another topic describing how to test it and after following the steps, my readings on all three pins were 0.3 (see picture below). Also watched a youtube tutorial and put the negative pole of multimeter to negative part of battery and the positive pole of multimeter to each of the three wires and my multimeter stayed on OL which I believe means there’s no short? Judging by these tests, the stator is good right? I can’t do a dynamic test because bike doesn’t run and i’m not sure if 0.3 is the number it should be at (guy on youtube was getting 0.4 so i think i’m okay). Anyways, let me know!Thanks!!
-
What readings did you get on the 2-pin plug (Blue and Green) = This one is key
If all 3 yellow wires are 0.3 of a single ohm (it’s good!) OEM limit is 0.9 of a single ohm. Anything beyond that is asking for a lot of trouble. Healthy is 0.2-0.6 generally for EFI machines as they take more electrics than the carb model does.
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
-
EFi is 110-140 ohms max, so looks like the stator should be OK. The only way that stops working (even though its OHMS are in spec) is if acts haywire (faulty batch) , then replace it if it means the ECU still doesn’t trust it but it may throw an ERROR CODE if it does.
Did you find a replacement dash ? or have you attempted to really trace all the power lines going to the dash and confirm 12v is at the dash connector plug ?
– Red wire
– Orange (i believe) or (grey i believe) = But wire colours change sometimes by KoreaBut take pictures of the connector if in doubt so i confim wire colours.
Also, if the LCD glass is faulty, the RPM needle should still move as soon as you turn the key on (It sweeps to 10k rpm then back down to zero rpm as a self-test) , however there is another topic in this forum that mentions a guy replacing the RPM motor he had to use soldering skills though,
If RPM gauge doesn’t move and LCD glass doesn’t turn on, i would be suspicious if there is even 12v at the dash connector plugs.
Yellow = high beam,
Yellow/Black = rpm counter (i believe)
another yellow (i think!) = fuel tank float level sensor
light green = turn signal
black/white = ground
black (all black) = turn signal
brown = temperature sensor
dark green = speed sensor possibly (speedo drive to count road speed)This is just off my head , i’d have to look again to re-confirm.
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
-
-
-
I traced down this blue 9 pin plug that goes from the dashboard “mini” harness to the “main” harness and again, only the red wire is getting 12.8v, every other wire including the orange isn’t getting a reading. I’ve circled the pin for the orange wire in the picture attached, am I dumb or does it look a bit “burnt” compared to the rest of the pins? Idk i could be seeing things or it could be useless info. -
Okay, my red wire at the dash plug is always getting 12.8v, my ORANGE wire gets 12.8v only when key is switched to ON position, otherwise it’s not live no volts. I have a two plug cpu. One plug (black plug) has only 1 wire (red) that is getting 12.8v, the other plug (grey plug) has one wire (green with white stripe) getting power but no voltage reading, just lights up to indicate there is power.
Is all of this normal?
-
-
-
Last thing i wanted to ask before i forgot , when the dash is plugged in. (never mind the ECU) , do all the icons flash below:
- Left & Right Turn Signals
- Hazard switch on right switch
- Neutral Light On
Confirms if the circuit board is at least feeding power to the top icons , and then if the ECU does arrive , the red FI light should come on.
However, even with the OLD ECU, the red “Fi” light should be red as soon as the key turns on, is that true ?
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
-
That’s just odd , if the ECU was dead the dash would show a steady FI light with the dash saying “CHE” on the LCD glass (or if the user has pressed the kill switch button towards the front tyre)
Red FI light on Delphi ECU’s disappear after the bike runs (provided there is no errors while running)You said 2 plug ecu , so i am assuming it is a Delphi one. Daewoo ECU’s don’t really store information, so procedure might be a little different.
Though , you could try to buy a spare working dash locally where you live , just make sure the donor bike had the same ECU as you did. (Or even buy a spare harness!)
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
I have a new ECU on the way (you’re correct it is delphi). I don’t want to fork out the money for a spare dash. I’ve been searching everywhere for preowned including local and ebay looks like the only option but from America so a bit pricey. Any chance I can 100% rule out the dash being faulty and sending it in for repair? Shop that does it 10 min away from me and said “No fix no charge” so if there isn’t an issue, he won’t charge me I assume? Worth a shot i think.
Will the new ECU fix my no fuel pump priming and no spark problem? I think so right lmfao cause i’ve checked every mechanical part and it’s either new or working including stator and regulator.
-
We will know once the ECU arrives but the ECU needs to trigger the red light on the dash and the kill switch is required by the ECU to sense it , before it sends sparks & fuel (See how these parts are all interlinked)
Sure you can get your dash fixed, if its worth a shot.
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
I’m going to drop my dash off to a guy today. Said $100 to check it out excluding repairs. At least it’ll give me an idea whether the dash is fried or not.
A click sound comes from one of the 4 relays on the back left of the bike when I flick kill switch towards me (im 90% sure main relay)
Thats normal?
-
-
Hearing a relay buzz is normal , usually the headlight relay is the first one to “click” , then it turns the lights on. Followed with the “fuel pump” if it has one present instead of a bigf 30A fuse box for pump use, other relays control other parts of the EFi system.
Dash = See what he says and finds out.
See this topic below , and only pay attention to the video…. This should help you verify how the dash does the “needle rpm” sweep as soon as key turns on.
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
Okay guys, update time!
ECU arrived today, she starts! Took a while because hasn’t been started in 1+ years i’d say but she goes! Rode her, she’s really quick lmao. Needs a good clean cause brakes are sticking and noises etc, but she runs!
I don’t have my dash back, the guy i gave it to is ghosting me. I’m gonna pull up to his house today and pry it from his hands lol. Maybe the ECU could make the dash turn on too? If not, idk what to do because i called every electronic/cluster repair store in my city and none can do it. Some even say it’s unrepairable.
-
-
Probably best to try replace the dash unit and keep the old one for spares (you will need it!) – Headlights now means strip her down and verify the harness is sending 12v to the bulb sockets and 12v is present at the relay connectors too for headlights.
ride safe!
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
Okay another update…
I somehow dropped the bike. The kickstand was down, but I guess not all the way or something because the bike fell. Was not a fun time. Handlebar snapped completely. Ordered replacement ones and installed them onto the forks, back to normal.
Got my dash back. Fi light now turns on and if i turn the key on and off three times, it blinks in a numerical sequence (haven’t recorded the numbers unless i need to?)
I can’t find anyone who can repair my dash, if i buy another dash, won’t the kms be different/random? This dash has 1,200kms only, bike is still a baby. I’d like the dash KMS to be original.
-
Okay do that again and count the blinks…
Eg….
10 blinks – pause – 3 blinks – pause – 5 blinksShe will repeat the sequence again.
She said the code was 10-3-5 , let us know and I will advise what that code is.
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
-
GT650R
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.