♠️ M77
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Good job on saving that RT125 intake pipe! – Looking good, as the engine heats up and cools , check its not cracking a few hundred miles later , what did you use anyway ?
Gotta say, i can tell you aren’t regretting the 520 conversion lol. Leave a shop review on the chain page 😉
F – marking would mean the engine is ready to check the valve clearances at the top front, however since you already have the engine apart, you can spin it to see its lowest point , then mark the flywheel to say “PLF” (Piston Low Front) and rear PLR , Korea should have done it at factory, but when i rebuild engines i don’t need the flywheel to know if the piston is up or down since i’ve already removed the heads 😉
4x bolts = around 20ft lbs and use a little bit of loctite-medium strength. (not the hard strength)
Looks like it was burning oil when the piston rings gave up or the valve seats started cracking (made of some kind of plastic/rubber) , and leaked oil into the chambers
wow
Awersome , glad you solved it all. And no rebuild kits for Master Cylinders (Hyosung Korea did not make such parts) either a full cylinder or not.
eBay USA seems to have a lot of used parts for your bike incase of a hurry than getting it from us due to as you say time difference & distance haha
About 15 ft lbs , loctite thread lock is good to stop the bolts rattling loose , as that’s a critical part of the bike (can’t stop with no brakes!)
Go on the headlight unit, there is 3 screws holding the glass on the side. Unscrew them and take the headlight glass off.
Then disconnect the wires behind the headlight glass.
Get a 14mm socket tool , and go under the fork lower tree where the headlight holder is mounted to, unscrew it. This removes the whole headlight assembly
Reverse this to fit everything back.
Next……The plastic panel that’s under the tank left side HUGGING the frame steering head, remove it. Disconnect the blue dash plug.
Next…. Go under the steering top yoke -> Unscrew the ignition assembly.
Next…. Unscrew the 2 bolts holding the dash unit.
Now you have a dash unit on the table ? –> The “little lights” for LEFT turn signal , hi beam, neutral, etc” have their own screw under the dash unit.
Remove one or 2 screws under there, now you can change the bulb.
Regards
Relay/Capacity/Resister for the horn = Unit , some models ie 2017 125R it’s not really immediately obvious or can be missing. Hyosung is strange like that but either way “unit” = joins the horn wires , probably to stop electric electric retrograding back too (to save the harness from frying i guess)
Need the full image if possible and which manual it was , not all Hyosungs share the same harness . Even 125’s had harness changes over the years.
It’s hard to order that part these days …. So get 2 long hoses and jubillee clamps on there for each carb – then let those 2 hoses also overflow to the road
Not ideal but that’s what I would do.
1st step, 30mm socket and a big torque wench , then undo the big center nut on top yoke.
Then use allen keys to remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the top yoke plate.
Get a rubber mallet and tap the top yoke upwards until it comes out.
It will come out with both clip ons still attached to it
So make sure to loosing the bolts holding the clip-ons to the fork legs too.
I will address this in your other topic that says “ticking issue” , i have also responded there.
Good to hear the carbs work now
That would be a failing HT Lead CAP (the black thing that connects to spark plugs) NGK is heavily suggested and magnecor HT wires.
Testing failing ignition coils , see below:
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Hell yes! Go get her. For us to buy a new Hyosung in the UK it is $4000 USD! = Most used ones tend to have been abused by its ex-keepers.
As soon as you get her, this is in order:
- new oil (motul 7100 or motul 300v is recommended!)
- replace the clutch plates
- change oil filter
- bleed the brakes (old fluids make poor braking) or replace to new hoses too!
- ditch the old pads and use new sintered brake pads
- check tyres for cracks and replace them
- if it has SHINKO (oem tyres) = Michelins are a MUST!
- Replace the chain and sprockets (X-Ring is good) but please avoid anything made in china!
Put the carb on the table , make sure the floats face the sky.
It should be 7mm resting and about 12-17mm lifted up by your hand (gently)
Resting must be exactly 7mm or about 7.5mm max (6mm isn’t good or neither is 8mm) must be in the 7mm range.
Hate to say it, see the “permanent jet” that’s next to the mains & pilots = That perma-jet is for Starting the bike, use compressed air and carb cleaner until you hear it “HISS” on the other side deep in the carb bowls, this will help clear it up.
Then take both pilot jets in your hand , face the sky , see if light shines through both jets “equally” or clean the pilot jets again.
Let us know if that helps!
Turn the key on and off , quickly , in 3 times or 5 times. Count the blinks from the red FI light,.. this is the ECU telling you a fault code.
Eg…..
10 blinks – pause – 4 blinks – pause – 6 blinks – pause – 9 blinks
This will repeat itself.Code is 10-4-6-9 from the ECU as an example, then we will know what the issue is.
In the meantime, as it has been a year , disconnect every connector on the bike ==> get contact cleaner => clean the plugs so that the ECU signals are stronger or remove resistance issues in the plugs incase one of them is rusty.
Don’t use contact cleaner on the ECU or the ECU plug ==> use dry compressed air to clean that area.
Hopefully the pump should prime as soon as the key turns.
Also, make sure the battery is charged, the ECU will give up quickly if the senses the battery is their under-charged or too old.
Okay,
Try this =- confirm 12v is at the fuse box
- confirm 12v is at the ignition wires (green plug under airbox)
Can you turn the key on , and do you see anything at all on the dashboard not even so much as a light ?
Is the engine still running (ie, the bike still starts when turning the key on ?
last thing , is this a carb model or EFI ?
If it is EFI , what ECU does it have ? (Delphi, Mitsubishi Japan, Daewoo, etc)I would remove the ECU, and use compressed air to clean the pins carefully and every connector on the bike.
You can use “contact cleaner” on all plugs of all sensors, it can help solve resistance issues with the ECU
Also do not use contact cleaner on ECU, as liquids may leak into the ECU, which is a rare part for your 2011 model!
If problems keep happening, try replacing the ECU or maybe go get a replacement harness.
If not, try to find a 2015 harness & 2015 ECU from ebay USA as those bikes are very common in USA , they use DELPHI ECU which is better.
On my other GV in the past , i basically found a harley backrest and i managed to make/fabricate some custom brackets that hook the backrest to the side rails of the rear pillion section of the bike. On the same pilly back rest, it is “possible” to make your custom rack from another bike that’s cheap and use extra brackets and the like to affix it to the sissy bar. It’s a wild idea but i suppose this could be cheaper than going the OEM route
Okay, three things.
The yellow box is going to the ground where the coil is.
What COLOURS are the “harness” wires from the white 2-pin connector #? (the female side) = I will advise what that female connector is for.And here is a recently sold cable for the “Y shape” (“clutch cover, main harness & battery = at once)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255169683992
We sold out on that cable, but if you need it , send us a sales email and I will check my workshop after the 30th , as currently moving places. Or try another ebay seller if in a mega rush
