♠️ M77
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Only the GT650 Delphi ECU is compatible
Unless you’re able to salvage a harness from an older 650 with its “matching ECU”
Have you tried my other suggestions above though ?
It is better to replace the tensioner , as it is “automatic” (not allowed for rider to adjust it)
However, open the engine and do valve clearances and inspect cam chain + cam shaft sprockets for dentures/chain damage to them
Regards
Probably best to try replace the dash unit and keep the old one for spares (you will need it!) – Headlights now means strip her down and verify the harness is sending 12v to the bulb sockets and 12v is present at the relay connectors too for headlights.
ride safe!
Send me an email using the link below ⏬ if you need parts for the ST7 , and I will get it from supply chain if we don’t have our own stock (new or used)
E5 is recommended ( 95% unleaded petrol and 5% ethanol max)
E10 isn’t good, so try to avoid it if you can.
It is either of these…
Bad Oil = Replace the oil ===> Hyosungs love Motul 7100 and Silkolene Pro 4 oils. Very very good oils.
Clutch Plates too worn or problem with thrust bearing inside clutch ==> Overhaul clutch
ARM behind engine for clutch cable needs to be closer to sprocket cover when bike is in neutral (Clutch Adjustment Tutorial)
FOOT SHIFTER assembly is dry and needs grease , ==> Lubricate the joints around the foot-shifter assembly.
Rear Wheel Chain is too slack or too tight ==> Check chain tension (yes believe it or not) , it can affect neutrals too.
See if you can get a battery charger made for bikes (not cars!) —> Charge the battery –> Then try to start it. And yes as long as there is at least 5 litres of unleaded petrol, the tank will have fuel. The fuel pump does not like to start when tank is empty as it damages the fuel pump if it is dry. Very expensive part.
After that , make sure to a pocket meter ====> Rev the bike to 5,000 rpm ==> voltage should be 13.5V-14.5V and idle voltage should also be 13.5 to 14.5v
If it is lower than 13.5v = charging system issues.
If it is higher than 14.5v = charging system issues. I would NOT ride it until it is fixed
Charging system = Regulator (common) that is why we sell Japan upgrades on this shop , and Stator Unit (if OEM regulator damaged it) and sometimes battery is too old and needs replacing with a new battery.
Bike switched off ? NO KEYS? ==> Battery should be 12.8v-13.1v charged.
It sounds more like the left switch gear is the culprit (it does control the lights including turn signals)
If its a carby model , check the right switch too (incase contacts are rusty inside the cluster & the terminal connector)
If in doubt, it is a good idea to replace the headlight relay and double check all front headlight H1 & h3 bulbs are 55w 12v (any higher will cause issues and melt harness)
The fact that your low h3 bulb even flicked for a second means the power does reach the bulb, so the “main harness” of the bike should be okay but don’t rule it out yet as it could be your last battle but hopefully not.
Can you add some pictures of this mystery plug ?
If you have already figured it out, your pictures will help others for sure!
Confirm with your bike with this user-submitted document which matches our carbs.
Welcome fella,
Don’t worry about the retirement, this is where i say “the fun begins” , where its all about you now 😉
Either the “famous” harleys or Hyosungs ? The GV650 is comfier with a “sporty engine” , so it is no slouch of a bike but does enough freeway miles using a big front sprocket to lower revs (if it has had a chain conversion done). So good choice on keeping the Hyosung all these years.
Again, welcome to the club
I take it the chain fitted alright then ? what links were cut ? I might have sent a longer one to give you room
Go through the wiring harness with a meter and confirm the terminal plugs (bullet connectors) of the indicators on your meter are pulsing 12v
eg. 12 0 12 0 12 0 = Then you know power is going there, then investigate the actual indicator “shell” itself for rusty contacts for the bulbs.Fake emissions ball thats next to the horn , anbd you will find the second one under the ignition coils.
Honestly, i’d get EGR blanks on this store…. and follow this topic below:
[Tutorial] AIS Removal Guide – Hyosung GV125C (EGR Blank Kit Fitting Guide)
You could cry , but i feel like its best to remove the carb one more time and thoroughly clean it , then
- Make sure the slides are not sticky
- Float height (it matters or else the pilot jets may not reach the fuel before its shut off hence poor idling)
- Keep the choke cable removed from the carb (just incase the choke is frayed or the choke rail is sticky)
This is exactly to a tee how our carb works because its a CV carb but it just faces upside down that’s all!
Under the left side of the rear pillion plastic panel. You will see a 4pin relay that controls lights. A fuse box will be there too , 15A max.
Hearing a relay buzz is normal , usually the headlight relay is the first one to “click” , then it turns the lights on. Followed with the “fuel pump” if it has one present instead of a bigf 30A fuse box for pump use, other relays control other parts of the EFi system.
Dash = See what he says and finds out.
See this topic below , and only pay attention to the video…. This should help you verify how the dash does the “needle rpm” sweep as soon as key turns on.
Can you show me the plugs (terminal connectors) of the stator
And which ECU does this bike have ? (Sentec, Delphi, Daewoo, etc…)
When you connect the multi meter to the indicator wire= You may say 12v 0 12v 0 12v 0v in quick succession if its working , but do you get any “pulsing” voltages at all ?
The harness of the bike must be the one to actually send power down the lines in the first place before the bulb flashes ?
If the REAR LEFT & REAR RIGHT are working = Relay is OK.
Sounds stupid, but be wise , connect 2 scrap wires from the shed to the battery and connect it to your indicator itself ?
If it flashes , it was the harness likely having a break somewhere or a kink or a rusted patch if water went under the airbox
