♠️ M77
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So if you’re on the road , and it says 0 KPH / MPH ?
Just the speed? Everything else like Revs , Turn Signals , Neutral ETC work ?
If that’s the case, then it is the speedo drive / speed sensor itself yes, it is on the front wheel , left side.
Hi Marcel. Ive narrowed the issue down to the regulator/ rectifier. Can you supply a replacement and how much please? Thanks Ian
Hey Ian, please send me an email clicking the link below ( i am sure , we already sent you one ages ago with a quote, so it might be in Spam Folder)
Clutch switch. side stand switch. right switch gear. ecu connector plug. these were our issue on a customer 2017 GV i had to fix. no fi errors.
But i suspect sparking coils + caps if ecu primes the pump
The difference between the later model 650 forks is the shape of the mount on FORK LEG & postion of mounting holes for the 2x screws, yes? If 400ml is maximum fork oil, then 380ml should be ok,yes (will get slightly less damping as there is more air in tube to compress).
you wouldn’t want to overfill as that would make the forks too stiff or jarring!😬
Correct on the 650 forks, later models => bottom legs change to fit the black 4-pot calipers.
I hope you can figure this one out fella, and we’re here to get to the bottom of it , it will be easier than diagnosing a faulty EFi chinese bike with unknown sensors & injectors!
Keep us updated
Keep her Jim, i could be biased but would you think it is one of the few bikes you owned to has its own character that’s kind of like “i may retire with her and divorce the rest of the others!”
Sounds like you put a lot of miles on that rear tyre, that’s a rare thing to hear , i may get it for my other future scrambler i am looking to buy (but eh, i could always get another GT and just mount enduro tyres for some light off roading) (still gotta put a sump plate (belly pan) incase of hitting a rock!)
Hmmm , fingers crossed because Hyosung kept their forks & engines silver until around 2010 , where they did a facelift models with updated parts in black colour, their engine became black too. (250cc would have gold forks , then black forks but not adjustable)
All 650 forks are adjustable top and bottom.
You got this 😀
400ML is usually max capacity but hyosung has updated the 650 forks 3 times! (Old , Newer , and 2020+ updates for their current LED GV650 models which borrow GT forks!)
So if you want to use 650 forks on your GT250 = Get the silver ones. This is up to 2008 as a safe mark. Around 2009-2012 different countries started getting black 650 forks with updated calipers.
So 2005-2008 GT650 should be fine 🙂
Hey
Can you check your coils for primary and secondary resistance?
Or
Go to any bike shop or junk-yard and get “SUZUKI SV650 1999” (must be 99 only) and use their coils.
SV650 1999 and GT650 Hyosung carb both use the same Mitsubishi Japan coils , but suzuki is more common, so you will be able to find it easier, make sure it is from a working bike.
Also the “PLUG CAPS” crack a lot in hyosung and they stop your coils sending sparks to the spark plug, so also get SV650 1999 Plug Caps too.
or check that your Hyosung plug caps have resistance (between 3,000 to 25,000 ohms) (without the coils attached to them)
Also, check your stator , if its dead, you will get no sparks. Click below to lean how to check your stator
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Yes the topic says “GT125R” , but the rules are the same for GT650
If it is black , the colour is just Satin VHT Black (but Hyosung does their own in-house custom black paint or custom silver paint and sometimes they do them Anodized) or use Suzuki Black Engine paint (if it can be found in your country)
Hmmm, ill update as i go along, but at the top of my head.
– Stock Regulator = Pimp it or watch it burn eventually and cheap China replacements are no better.
– Owners put wrong batteries = It uses YTX-14BS from factory. Owners put little scooter batteries
– Fried stators = because of regulator or owners putting Heated Grips when it doesn’t want it (KIES Heated gloves are better and have their own power bank to warm your hands)
– Stock tyres = suicide bricks in winter , but OK-ish in summer. Use michelins
– Forks pit easy (as with any bike with USD forks) , so split the forks and put gaiters for protection or Fork Seals will be your MOT worries
– 428 chain = Cheap for Korea to stick them on but bike is 180kgs, they ALWAYS eventually snap!
(520 is best)– Stock caps crack , so ignition issues (The plug hole is deep and very hot down there), we switch up to NGK ones one.
Bad caps ? ==> Your coils will die with them.Fork Gaiters (Yes fork gaiters) MUST be used to hide the 3 plugs under the airbox because the front tyre chucks a LOT of wet salty (soon cracked terminals and kill switch issues)
Like any bike, water and rain is the enemy => use gaiters to hide plugs exposed to elements , like your Stator Plugs behind rear shock
Like it’s GS500 sister, the swingarm uses cheap paint. Strip and re-coat with better paint.
Rear shock = Avoid 2010-2020 shocks, they ALWAYS bend. Any used 2003-2009 shock from GT125 or GT650 will outlive it! 03-09 have better shocks.
Calipers = Great stuff when they work, and also used on 650cc , so upgrade is OVERKILL, but pistons rust easy, so stainless pistons are recommended.
Brake Pad Pins = Get stainless pins (like these) , because sometimes owners replace calipers after damaging their old ones trying to extract a rusted pin.
that’s all i can think of for now
The bike will last as long as the owner stays OCD with it. I’ve had my own 2007 GT last me nearly 10yrs with mostly OEM parts still intact and did almost 60,000 miles. I went all over UK with it , now I ride the GV and soon a supermoto (Hyosung RX) if i can find it!
Should be a Wire Pinout Diagram on the forum , search “Pin out” in the site , another member did a job detailing what each wire does and it is EFI GT650 , but some wires are also shared with carby GV650 There is also a service manual on the forum, download the one that matches your bike as it should explain how to check your CDI unit and wiring diagram in the last pages of the GV650 manual To attach photos click the “green add media” button from your PC or Phone to attach a photo. If an error comes up, tell us the “error” and i will fix the errors on the site. I will also test with another account to upload images. If you see image below, it means it was working for me.
on my friends multimeter on the ohms setting is 3 positions 200,2000 & 20k which setting to check the cdi Thank you for the help bro
It should be on the service manual ?
Should be a Wire Pinout Diagram on the forum , search “Pin out” in the site , another member did a job detailing what each wire does and it is EFI GT650 , but some wires are also shared with carby GV650
There is also a service manual on the forum, download the one that matches your bike as it should explain how to check your CDI unit and wiring diagram in the last pages of the GV650 manual
To attach photos click the “green add media” button from your PC or Phone to attach a photo.
If an error comes up, tell us the “error” and i will fix the errors on the site. I will also test with another account to upload images.
If you see image below, it means it was working for me.
This topic is kind of a duplicate, so it is locked.
You have been responded to below:This topic is kind of a duplicate, so it is locked.
You have been responded to below:Sports CDi’s don’t exist for that bike. And if I am honest, I would keep using the original Hyosung Korea CDi’s . They fail less than chinese clones.
Quoting from your other topic:
Bike Model = : Hyosung gv650 2006 carburetor model
I have a problem with bike not starting I think it’s a possible cdi unit problem
My question is
My cdi unit says. BB7725-1 5K07
I found one the same make of cdi and same model of bike but it’s a 2007 year bike the number of the CDI unit on this is BB7725-1 6F14
The last 4 numbers/letters are different what are these representing and would it be compatable for my 2006 model
I would say all carby GV650 use the same CDI unit
You may need to remove the harness and test all pins to find which wire has been shorted and try to patch it up. (You said it won’t spark anymore , sounds like something LIVE touched the frame and shorted a wire (burn a wire somewhere)
If the CDI blew, you will need another one.
I saw 1 topic with the same question, so it is locked and this one too.
So I will reply to this 3rd one below.
2013 650R – Is it a Delphi or Daewoo ECU?
When you go on this forum, look at the Manuals section and download the one that matches your model (I uploaded every single 650 manual possible)
In that manual, read how to trick the ECU in to giving you an Error Code or count the blinks displayed by the Fi Red Light on the dash
Ie. If the dash says C23 = that would be oxygen sensor #2 (rear pipe oxygen sensor fault) , this is just an example!
It’s not spinning the RPM needle because the ECU is locked until one of the sensors on the bike is looked at or something is unplugged.
As Simon would usually say on this forum (he is an EFi wizard too) , you would need to disconnect everything and clean the plugs connecting all sensors on the bike with the battery disconnected for a while ( for the ECU to reset itself).
Or check the ECU plug too
Let us know the error codes you get , the manual also shows you how to test sensors on the bike using a pocket meter.
Yes you need fuel in the tank, the pump will be quickly damaged if you try to run it dry. (The dash will tell you if there is fuel = eg. 4 bars of fuel left)
A minimum of 3-4 bars of fuel is good. Any less isn’t good for the pump (fuel sloshes left and right while riding, so you want it submerged all the time)
Ok here is something for you. With the tps something is a bit bent where the bolt goes through. Maybe from the heat. I thought I would try turning manually, I will check it with the multimeter. Anyway I slowly turned it up, it started to idle better and rev mostly without a cough. Then I tightened it in that spot. Still getting a slower idle 1,000-1,100. Start it again and still playing up a bit. It must move when tightening because I loosened the bolt move it and running good again. I’ll try and find another tps. I’ll also take some video to show you. I think we are hopefully heading in the right direction
Double check the throttle body too, make sure the “threads” where the screw goes in to isn’t damaged otherwise , if it is , do a HELI-COIL mod (youtube “heli coil”)
