♠️ M77
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Marcel, can you offer any advice?
Przemek seems to offer good advise , so I haven’t said much yet I’ve seem him get busy with the bike as he was also changing his chain kit 🙂
This will be stupid but work with me ==> block the pipe going to the front of the bike brake
Now try to see if you can find a single banjo (banjo that accepts only a single hose)
Rear brake uses only the rear master cylinder
Front only uses front master cylinder
You just deleted the CBS system and went to the old school wayNow you will know if the front or rear is truly the problem.
Expect to re-bleed the brakes twice
If the rear master cylinder turns out to be bad (since it can’t pump one caliper now) => Replacement is due ofcourse.
Front master cylinder should be OK, as you haven’t said much about it.
Jacob, was the 250 SHOCK siezed a bit? Can you compress it? Does it REBOUND smoohtly after you compress it? I think mine GT250r 2008 shock is toast. It doesn’t sink much at all when i sit on bike. After that it won’t compress. Every speed humnp i hit smacks me in the backside hurts my kidneys. It is not too unsafe to ride but it is not comfy at all. I am wondering if i should get a Hyosung 250 shock or find an aftermarket that bolts straight on without any modifications. Anyone know of some aftermarket shocks for the GT250R 2998 models?
If it feels stiff, look at the shock and find a “C-SPanner For Shock” , rotate the bit Castle Shape Ring that’s sitting on the spring , the LOWER the steps (the softer it is)
A GT650 shock will fit there without messing around, but it will make the rear taller (as the other guy said above ^ )
If you have big cash, the ultimate bolt on shock would be from HAGON SHOCKS UK , they make springs for 650 forks and 650 shocks, but cost a lot. Contact them if interested as they will ship direct to you. The 250 swingarm has SMALLER room to fit an exhaust pipe and a shock than a 650 does, a shock that’s too long WILL snap eventually (bent) as the 250R dog bones already hit the frame when the shock is too long, you will have hell. Hagon is better , as it’s just “bolt in & go” .
Looks like Google is saying that we need access , would it be possible to directly upload the photos on to the forum using Add Media button on the reply box.
Also it should allow the document to be uploaded too.
I need to find a toasted CDI from the lower class GV models and see what i can discover , this looks fun to open up 😭😬 , the whole shell is once piece but with lots of black goo underside , if i dremel through the plastic , i may actually cut through a capacitor resting on the walls inside if it has one!
A couple pics of my machine. https://photos.app.goo.gl/NcDxEecPYfbnQbZJ9
if you could be able to directly upload on this forum? I could use them as future site top-banners , when i do a minor facelift to the site later in the year possibly 🙂
Be my guest! I have some more pictures of the GTS if needed 😉 Ride safe, Vanzz
Yes please , share away in the topic. You will see an update look later in the year possibly , and I already put members bikes on the banners you see at the top, they rotate based on each page.
Be safe out there too fella 😀
I had to do this to a customer bike 2 weeks ago for his MOT would fail on those pipes. Before adding him some Black Widow SS pipes, the torx bit is a T40 Security Dot Torx (torx bit with a hole in the middle)
If it rounds off , then find T45 (the next one) or T50 === > wear gloves and have a LOT of patience ==> Hammer the Torx bit inside until it is firm and hard.
Once it is firm and hard inside, then you have ONE good shot to turn it!
If not , can you get a mobile welder around to come over and weld a torx bit to the bolt ?
Don’t scrap her, you can do this.
Like my other lad , his garages ran away from the sight of his bike and because it’s a “Hyosung” but they are happy to work on a chinese “lexmoto?” , morons tbh lol.
Oh I see, so this could be the issue, I tried pushing it back in the connector while cranking yet nothing. Any way to test it before i fix it up?, as I have a feeling it may be damaged.
Follow the orange way all the way to the front of the harness and test with a meter for a breaks , as a possible short somewhere that’s stopping the electric flow reaching the CDI
The 650 shocks were always a little bit longer but more stiffer spring as the weight of the 650 vs 250 bike as a whole is not the same. Plus the 650 has a wider rim (more mass) than a 250 rim. It would make sense not to use 250cc parts.
Good discovery!
Hmmm, your 650 should have a Japan Mitsubishi ECU (if it says 2008-2010 on the chassis) , it is not a bad ECU , but any EFI will be a little slower for emission laws in certain countries, so Hyosung just used a universal map of their own , so it behaves the same way whatever country it is sold to
Have tried this first (use the service manual on the forum for tutorials),
- compression check
- valve clearances
- TPS check
- Fuel Pump can’t be checked easily but check strainer isn’t gunked up or if the motor sounds weaker, get a new pump, it helps a LOT.
- Pour injector cleaner for bikes inside your fuel tank (all of it) => Ride until the tank is low on fuel, so the cleaner mixed with fuel can try to “soft-clean” your fuel system so to speak, maybe injectors could just simply need a clean. Worst case scenario (brand NEW injectors will make the bike alive again)
Report back with your figures?
Check the last owner didn’t add performance filters or upgraded his jets or did some kind of tuning or change sprockets to alter gearing to make you feel like its faster than your EFi.
EFi is supposed to be more snappier on throttle than a carby one in general.
But ….. a properly tuned carb model will have a small edge of a stock EFi.
Unless you’re also smart or know someone that lives inside DELPHI ECU’s , you can ask them to tune your ECU if it says DELPHI with the harness etc , there is a risk, a small mistake can render the ECU dead completely.
So check your bike with the manual & do the cleaning suggestion , then see how you feel and weigh your thoughts on that.
Keep us posted!
Welcome to the forum, you have 2 very beautiful widow makers!
The GTR with the nose cone, should be officially “GT650S” if it has the little triangles under there (rare) but it was a common style like that for USA market and it was called official GTS (half-fairing bike)
More knowledge is always welcome, whatever you have to share or tutorials is always welcome 😀
If i re-design this website later in 2025-2026 , I will probably use the picture of your GT-S if you are OK with that?
the orange wire is shared with the ignition barrel , right switch gear , and dashboard – So if these go out, it cuts power off to the CDI, and CDI cuts the sparks off.
:):) I’d love to go for a long ride once I get the bike back on the road BUT the island of Faial is only 65 km around the perimeter with a huge volcano in the middle that takes up lots of landmass! However I have been know to have a day out and ride arounf the island three times to get a couple hundred kms on the clock!
Don’t forget your Ferry Pass, if you can get on a Ferry with your bike, you tour the nearby islands , Hawaii maybe ?
That is a unique question and one I am actually keen to learn more as you want to risk opening it up. Normally, I just replace the CDI’s on customer bikes, the lower class 125 & 250ccs don’t even look encourage to try to open them up! as if there was some kind of black goo plastered all over with only connectors showing and that’s it.
If your CDI has plastic casing on both sides (I have to assume so, as i know some 650’s do, but i never actually had my hands on a GV version) , there should be a line going all the way around acting as a seem / seam <?> . Then slowly try to pry it open?
Another overlooked issues we get on bikes is heat fatigue on what it does to electronics , like a computer PC, if an SSD runs too hot without cooling it, it’s circuitry you will see scorch marks on the PCB. Heat is usually a bike’s enemy either to the engine pistons or electronics!
Following this topic!
We always need more brains on this forum. Welcome and glad to hear you didn’t divorce her. Are you planning to go for a long ride with her this summer at all ?
Post some pics of the ride too 🙂
This topic should help verify the CDI has the correct wires going in to it.
Needing a little help with my current project (+GT125 CDI PIN OUT)
Regards
That’s good to hear, at least you know the owner will try to appreciate it more now its also riding season. You will be back 😉
The fuel tap that sits on the tank itself is burst (happens more than the pump)
or
Vacuum Lines need checking (tutorial here)
or
Change your intake o-rings (vacuum loss) –> click here….
or
Inspect your intake manifolds….
or
Your airbox is missing clamps or isn’t sitting on the carbs properly (see here)Lastly, your choke could be open (close the choke) and crank bike for 5 seconds max and WAIT, otherwise any longer will burn out your starter motor and its relay solenoid which is more money to spend and fix.
During that 5 seconds of cranking without you twisting throttle, you should see the filter fill up
If the filter faces the wrong way, that could be an issue too
Lastly , if it flows better with your fuel cap on the tank lock OPEN ===-> your cap needs replacing (not user serviceable) i mention this because on a hot day , the tank gets warm too, so the air inside the tank expands actually, and needs the cap to slowly hiss (vent off) or you will get an intake lockup where the fuel stops going to the carbs, the bike drinks fuel from its bowl until it dies on the side of the road.
Hope that helps. Keep us posted, as it will help someone else who may read this.
I suspect this may be to do with the 2016-2018 GV250 harness being updated to use a special box that has a lot of fuses for different parts of the bike, due to the suspicion of me seeing a lot of orange / red wires going to it.
Generally red and orange signify live wires on hyosung bikes but Hyosung “may change” later on.
You should checkout also the 250cc EFi service manual which has a wiring diagram (Delphi GT & GV behave the same but GV just has extra sensor or 2. ) , if you don’t see the manual on this forum , there is also the alternative source called ManualsLIB which should have a 2016-2018 delphi manual.
I know it is Delphi as i can see the black and grey connectors for the ECU.
That was my thought with the pump running. Just odd it died and then no spark on either. Once I manage to test it I’ll reply, currently requiring an old CB350 for the father in law and also need to balance the carbs on the CBR so might be a week.
Take it out for a spin when done. Good old Honda 🙂
Clutch switch. side stand switch. right switch gear. ecu connector plug. these were our issue on a customer 2017 GV i had to fix. no fi errors. But i suspect sparking coils + caps if ecu primes the pump
clutch switch is new, side stand switch removed, right switch seems to work (cuts pump of if flicked), cleaned ecu plug. Might have another coil somewhere. Just wouldn’t have thought they would both go at the same time.
Fingers crossed it is just a case of either the coils have gone dud , or if the coils work but it is the “Plug Caps” that have gone dead, so the spark plug isn’t getting anything from coils due to dead caps.
I’ve experience enough EFi Hyosungs in the flesh to know, if i hear the pump prime on the key , it would usually mean it is ready to start , i could have a dead heating sensors but bike still tries to fire up then red FI light comes on with a code saying “Heater sensor element faulty” etc , as long as the ECU works is the main key , other small parts are just a case of going through them one by one.
