♠️ M77
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Mine is efi. When cold it idles perfectly and revs normally/responsive. As it gradually warms up, the revs slowly drop until it gets to 1,000-1,100. That’s when it starts to play up. At least it doesn’t seem to stall now. Sometimes when I rev when the engine warms up, the engine will make like a weird clunky noise. I will check out the tps today as well.
hard to tell you without a video. And record it next time, go to where the source of the noise is (eg. if its the stator cover, go to the stator cover and try to record it there)
Or if its your Cam Chain tensioners, check them for noises or cam chain rattle etc.
Again, record and go to where the source of the noise is.Upload the video to OneDrive, GoogleDrive, DropBox etc and get a “public share link” to post it here on the forum.
A code won’t come up for certain parts that need a manual measurement. The service manual will usually detail which parts will give a code and some that need manual measurement.
Sprag Clutch = Age , wear and tear , or premature damage (if the last owner neglected the bike and was busy trying to start it 1000x a day, it could wear it down a lot faster) but you won’t know until you remove it off the flywheel.
Idling = Does it ever cut out when idling hot even at 1,100 rpm ? If not, could you recheck your throttle body TPS and possibly the lambda sensor using the service manual to match up any values within OEM spec ?
If we were to assume the basics ==> A carb bike that’s struggling to hold 1500 rpm would indicate blocked pilots or poor floats (EFI= Fuel pump or injectors)
or else
the idle adjuster knob needs increasing to 1500 rpm when hot (EFI= your ISCV unit should maintain idle when ride is not touching throttle tube but alas , EFI also means airbox sensors & throttle body sensors need checking too)
or else
We must check the entire ignition system both EFi & Carby => coils, caps, stator and CDI (EFi= ECU)
I believe you solved the ignition issues?
or else
If the rpm needle is going up and down in a sweeping fashion (1200 – 1800rpm), this carb bike would suggest its hunting for fuel or plugs are wanning => Replace plugs or check float height (For EFi = Fuel pump and injectors and/or ISCV unit + TPS)At this point, you have done more progress with it , so you should be happy it’s not dying as much ? We getting there. Welcome to EFi world! Carby sounds easier doesn’t it ? but EFI is more “snappy & responsive” on the throttle!
1 more test , “Coil TERMINAL pin + Coil Bolt Hole” ==> What is the resistance (less than 5 (five) ohms please) Then i will tell you if the coil is good.
If you order the stators from us, it may come sooner than 15 days but possibly! – I usually try to be as rapid as I can.
In that time, strip her and clean up the harness and get “harness tape” , wrap it twice to insulate it more , but i hope this keeps as much water and mud away from rotting the wires.
Believe me , I washed my bike yesterday and I was stupid to allow water inside the seat , the fuse box got a little wet, i dried it off and i lost 1 volt! = 1 volt!!!
So instead of 12v, i was at 11v, the starter motor would not crank. So i replaced the fuse again and re-cleaned the terminals , it started up good! – It is amazing that water or bad contacts can cause an easy voltage drop (higher resistance , so heat risk there too!) Any harness made after 2012 is SENSETIVE!
I had an 2008 GT carby for a while, it’s harness was 2x thick and said “GT250R” as the factory harness used on both carby 125 & 250 until 2008
If your 125R is 2016 , you would be extra careful with the harness as they are much thinner.
Since you have a 2006 bike, i hope your harness says “GT250R” in a white sticker near the battery area and you have a thicker one (i’d be jealous as they are very hard to get now and last for ages!) All 650GT after 2008 are EFi now, so oh well , fuel injection it is and extra zillion sensors to pay attention to!
Stay carby!
Pirellis , they are a bit too “hard” for my liking and tend to |___| square off easily after a while instead of mainting a good curvy tyre ( )
Hmmm, you can use 150/60 as that’s what Hyosung did on their GD250N Naked model but personally i tried it on the GT , i was not too keen on it. So if possible try 150/70 or 160/60
Is there no Michelins or Bridgestone Sport Wet tyres where you live ?
You could try “Dunlop Mutant” tyres as our member from USA , says they are the best “crossover” tyres he has used on the Hyosung Gt250 , so they should be OK on your GT125
No ht leads for bike in the shop. Any alternatives?
You mean these fella?
NGK Uprated HT Coil Spark Plug Cap/Covers (x2) – Hyosung GTR GT GV (Various Models)
I got your email. Did you recieve our reply ?
Regards
In short.
MICHELIN PILOT ROAD ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
My most , most , most , most , recommended tyre. I can’t recommend it enough!
I’ve tried many tyres over the years in UK on different bikes , hell , i vowed not to waste money again unless its michelin.,
But…. “BRIDGESTONE TOURING” tyres are also GOOD! I would consider them a #2 choice. Just make sure you get Bridgestone Tyres that have a lot of silica or rated for “WET GRIP”.
Sizes = 150/70 is more than enough, believe me. 160/60 is the max safe limit for the rear rim. (Do not put 160/70!)
Front = 120/60 is OK (same size as Gt650) but 110/70 is plenty.
if both switches are disconnected , then it will be short somewhere along the harness , but …. test again with the switches connected to be sure the light actually changes brightness again.
12BS “just about” narrowly fit the GV250 battery tray. GV250 battery tray is the same size as the GD-250. However , 9BS is more than sufficient. Infact, get the YUASA High Performance 9BS battery, other I have used the 9BS on the other Hyosungs without an issue.
I do know that 14BS is factory size for GT- bikes but they have more going on under the hood than the GD does .
Stator + Regulator together = on your basket , definitely will NOT trust using any old regulator on a new part as these 2 parts are married like chain & sprockets.
Caps = They seem OK? If they don’t spark, get NGK ones but if budget is a concern, then we have these ones that work.
We have 2 of them left:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256805062129Make sure you have dust caps!!!!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254136676637Spark Plugs = Go to halfords and get “Yellow CR8E” only , do not touch the “IX Blue Iridiums, they are “!#@” is all we can say.
When she runs , upgrade to the “LASER” ones you see on this bike forum.CDI unit = It should be OK, but it’s the last thing we need to replace right now. Just make sure the main bike harness has every connector / plug cleaned up with shiny pins. Use contact cleaner and dry over night. Then ONLY use “ACF50” (spray a tear drop / rain drop of that in every single plug on the bike) .
Good job on checking the actual ignition coils. What are their readings without the HT cap attached to them?
Regards
You have a sticky brake switch (or faulty one). It’s the switches on your hand or feet that trigger the brighter LED’s .
You’re in the UK with a GD250R , amazing. Such a RARE , RARE beautiful bike! Take care of it!
YTX 9BS is OK. Just make sure it’s a genuine YUASA brand. No lithiums either.
I must stress, before fitting a new stator , get a BEEFY regulator. Like the one you see on the store above ^
NO aliexpress , No Korea OEM regulators = these things are usually so bad its the #2 cause of all electric problems on the bike and plus some of them allow the battery to charge to 16v and fry the loom. Not worth the risk.
Just a shout!
Sounds like a faulty stator unit, because if the CDI can’t sense it, it won’t send any sparks to the coils itself.
Did you also measure primary & secondary resistance of the ignition coils fella ?
Also if you can, remove the “HT CAP” thats on the coil itself. Then put your meter to 20,000 ohms.
Measure the HT cap on its own, tell us the resistance. The black caps are common to fail the sparks due to heat damage after a long while in the bike, since down the plug hole gets very hot. Though I would normally suggest to just upgrade to the heat resistant rubber NGK caps (NOT PLASTIC ones , they will crack!) , but if the black caps are OK , then go on amazon and look for “MAGNECOR HT WIRE” , these HT wires are great for maintain a consistant connection between the CAP and the Ignition Coil itself.
Cap/Cable -> 10.3 kOhm
Primary -> 0.6 Ohm
Secondary -> 6.7 kOhmCoil is OK
Cap is at the limit (10K is about the limit for these OEM caps) , the NGK ones you see at the shop are recommended!Idle Speed Delete = I’d exercise caution because it does engage slightly when rider leaves throttle to change gears to keep the engine “momentum” going, but if it rides OK, then keep an eye and make sure the ECU doesn’t get annoyed later on (putting more tax on it to regulate the EFi system properly)
Buy a spare ECU just incase!
Getting a fresh idle speed controller is a good idea.
Because it occasionally dies = Does it die when riding ? or just stalls when you come to the traffic lights? Does it fire up right away ?
I may suspect something else is failing when it gets up to too much “heat”
Can’t get through on email. Tried other means but not available
We will find you now. Check your FB messenger.
Sorry mate, sick of giving”mechanics” money for nothing. Have no idea of psi. Bike worked fine until one of said “mechanics” totally screwed my carbs up. Can you quote me pickup/drop off (Ashford Kent) and sort my bike out please Much appreciated Barry
The bike is going nowhere UNTIL it is fixed, we’re different. We even have a spare carb on the shelf in immaculate condition as a “test bunny” to prove if its the engine that needs attention rather than a carb. Sorry for the delay today, we had to collect a bike today!
Please click “Contact” below to discuss what we can do with yours ?
I will be awaiting your email 👍
Same issue, after it sat trough the Winter, no rear breaks, no stoplight when breaking with the pedal. I drained all the fluid from the rear system, topped it off, bled the breaks front and rear (for the front caliper its the lower one), topped it of again and it works perfect.
Thanks for sharing. Good to hear you still got her 🙂 Take good care of it!
Hopefully looking for someone to rebuild my carbs and sync them for me
If you would like , send us a message via email ? If distance is an issue for the bike transport, we collect and drop off but… you can also just simply post the carbs to us on their own.
Can you at least be 100% certain, the engine is compressing 150 psi each on each cylinder after its warmed up?
Take plugs out (both of them)
Full throttle
Crank bike for 5 seconds
Tell us compression for each cylinder, a mech can do it easy just by lifting tank off only and removing rear plugs and the front can be done when the oil cooler is lowered from its mounting. No need to remove carbs or airbox
I have personally had to fix and sync up a whole carb for someone but he had to rebuild the engine due to low cylinder on the rear as the bike was being difficult to start sometimes and would occassionally run weak on the road , then lose a cylinder eventually.
You said you feel “grinding” is that the gearbox ?
Have you had any chance to strip the clutch and check the plates , then re-adjust the cable or replace the clutch springs if they are heat fatigued.
Also while it is idling , squeeze in clutch lever and squeeze out ==> Does the sound change ? That’s your THRUST bearing inside the clutch, easy to replace but may also mean wobbly basket , so check plates + springs , even the metal discs should be “flat” on a glass table to check for “warping” / little slight bends
If not, check your wheel pulley (if still using Belt Drive on the wheels), front pulley may rattle slightly if the “locking” washer is loosing its teeth on the gearbox shaft splines (where your pulley sits on)
Check the back wheel pulley and rear wheel “HUB” bearing (just the hub itself, after a while it will grind and use KOYO bearing)
As for electronics = Did the replacement 2011 motor come with its own stator and throttle bodies ? And is there any chance the TPS sensor & ISCV (idle speed controller) needs checking again ? (Idle is controlled automatically based on TPS and the ISCV unit, but MAF & AIP & ET sensors also come in to play
ISCV unit = It’s got a plug going in to it and has either 3 or 4 hoses sucking filtered air from the airbox and feeding it to your throttle bodies when throttle is shut (rider is not riding, bike is in neutral)
Also disconnect it and tell us if it cuts off or screams higher ?
