♠️ M77
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i’ve replied to your other topic. (link below)
So i will lock this one
I would take the plastics off.
Now do this carefully and follow me, trust me…
- Peel the wire JACKET that hides the little pasta wires going to the dash,.
(The dash has a “mini” harness) that joins “DASH” —> mini harness —-> Main bike harness - Peel it, you will find the issue is the “red wire” has broken somewhere.
- If issue persists, peel the “KOREA TAPE” that’s on the “MAIN FRAME HARNESS” , and find the red wire or check the “blue plugs” do not have damaged or rusted pins.
Don’t forget to let us know if it was the case , i have a big suspicion it is. And i know red powers the LCD glass.
Black/white stripe wire is usually ground.
Don’t forget to get something like “MANNOL HARNESS TAPE” , and re-wrap the pasta strings back and waterproof it well 😉
If i did not make sense of anything, please ask me to repeat in a different way 🙂
Keep us posted!
Ahh vacuum tap, that’s good.
Here is a tutorial below:How to upgrade Fuel Lines & Filter on Hyosung GT125R GT250R (Carb Hose Diagram)
No circuit breaks in the wires to do with
- Clutch Handlerbar Lever
- Side Stand Switch (even if bypassed, the wires may have corroded?)
Sent you a PM , have a look, sorry i didnt post every book on this forum for the -S- models as it’s a very very new bike on here in UK (Not all dealers even have it yet!). But i got you!
(Hyosung want’s to make sure people obey the 2/5yr warranty before any bikes get sent back for any serious issues)If you bought it used, you can ignore the need for warranty as it may have expired with the ex-owner.
YUASA YTX14BS – It is the factory size and the battery try is designed to accomadate it.
before fitting a new battery , make sure regulator is 14v at idle and 14.6v max at 5,000 rpm and test your stator output too. A good charge system will see your battery even pushing a good 3yr life span. Instead of changing it every 6 months on a bad charge system. Just have a look, incase previous owners did something foolish.
Don’t buy lithiums (no matter what they tell ya) , if in doubt , trust korea’s own manuals when they say use the typical maintenance-free AGM battery
If you can’t get YUASA, try VARTA or UNIBATT, as those are good brands. Not to sure on everyone else as some batteries use really cheap parts inside / cells even if the battery has a flashy logo.
How is the bike behaving now ? The UK temps have calmed down a little bit
And what work has been doing by you (or anyone else) to improve it from “standard” to “better than before” ?
I’d say the 250 cooler is a BIG BIG must have on these 125s, they will really thank you and strictly ESTER oil (That is Motul ESTER or Silkolene ESTER)
Only 10w40 or 10w50. I use 10w50 all year on all my bikes.
20w is a no. 15w is a no. those 2 figures are too thick, it could wear down the bike even more as it is the only 125 on our soil with crazy amount of bearings inside the motor & 2 angry pistons lol.
For which bike ?
You have more than one listed in your profileAs per simon.
Also replace or investigate the “fuel tap” (that’s in the tank) and also the “fuel pump” that is on the frame.How did you clean the carbs ?
usually after sitting that long, 2 sessions of ultrasonic bathing does big wonders
Hey, Does any 1 have a assembly diagram for the fuel petcock, i belive either the spring or diaphragm is bad or out of position or i need to replace the whole petcock, but if any has any info it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Since you have a Naked GT on your profile details.
Do you have a “frame mounted” petcock (older gt250s) or late carb model that has a vacuum operated tap inside the fuel tank itself. ?Sorry
I mean adjustment. 
Yes it is like adjusting tappets on a HONDA CG125 , so the principle is very similar when you open your covers and you also see the CG125 , and also look at Yamaha YZR125 engine 2008
Welcome , and how nice to put a rex under the light lol, reminds me of someone who ones did a jaw design on their sidepanels of a Hyosung GTR bike. I think it’s still on google to be honest.
I hope you stick around 😉
Also, ride safe out there, we only get so few days of good warm weather before horrible winter comes, so make most of this Summer 🙂
Thanks Marcel. Is the regulation like on one cylinder carb ones? By a screw?
“Regulation?”
I didn’t understand this part sorry to ask again!What is ‘HT caps’ sir? Just trying to crank my bike again & the battery is dead Deos the mean I have stator problem now? I’ve taken out my CDI unit & put it in my friend’s bike it 1 kick start so I’m safe in CDI?
HT Caps = Ignition Caps , like you see below (use NGK ones)
NGK Uprated HT Coil Spark Plug Cap/Covers (x2) – Hyosung GTR GT GV (Various Models)
If your CDI works in your friend’s bike, then it works.
Get a Motorcycle Charger (not a car!) and fully charge the battery first and then do the rest of my previous reply to see if you get any sparks.
You got this!
INTAKE CLEARANCE = 0.08
EXHAUST CLEARANCE = 0.11
On ice cold engine.
I will make a special topic soon on the forum that has the service manuals in different languages as i am collecting them slowly and reading them for accuracy incase there is printing errors by who ever was writing the manuals for Hyosung lol
it is too large to send via email, will try upload it here after i am done with work
Send him a PM so that he shares his email privately, i had to delete the email address on here to protect his privacy.
Now did it spark after pulling in the clutch ?
If it doesn’t spark?
– Check coils or replace
– check HT caps and spark plugsAlso the sparks are cut off by
- side-stand switch even if its bypassed , maybe the wires rotted ?
- clutch switch (but this should not be a problem if it cranks with lever pulled in now as you said)
Last war for sparking will be the
- CDI unit
- stator (pulse sensor needs to work before the bike even thinks of sparking) , the cdi wants to know the stator pulse sensor works 1st
Well guys I have managed to apply a reasonably thick layer special silicone designed to resist heat over the cracks on the intake rubbers. Left it 24 hours to make sure it was dry and then went for a ride but unfortunately the problem persists. I have now ordered new rubbers (managed to source these from the US) quite expensive but I am going to have to attack those carbs. Thanks again for all the support and information you have provided me with. I will post an update once I complete the next challenge
Make sure to replace the “intake” O-Rings too! and keep us posted 🙂
- Peel the wire JACKET that hides the little pasta wires going to the dash,.
