♠️ M77
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The bottom of the float bowls has 1 brass nipple each, those are for drainining fuel (what you are holding is the drain pipes)
1 front 1 rear and joins at a Tee Junction —> Long hose goes to the road. (This is why next time we drain carbs before removal, we loose the silver float screws directly under the brass nippe) ==> then the long hose drains fuel in to the bucket on the road (or garage if you will) – I say road because i know some houses here in UK do not have long drive ways or big back yards , they fix their cars/bikes on the street/road 😉
Because he uses USD forks from Hyosung-Kayaba , they require specifically a hyosung manufactured mount.
We have caliper bodies on ebay or spare calipers , so look for our name @evocrest on ebayAs for brackets themselves , we usually sell brackets separately and the pins included (a bracket as one-piece unit only). It should be on our ebay channel , if it isn’t email us.
or , if you handy with fabrications , or your local fabricator can make up mounting plates using the hyosung one as a template then fit any caliper of your desire from Suzuki or Hondas 😉
Though, there is nothing out there that is a “bolt on fit” unless it is Hyosung specific, the koreans kinda made sure of it
Here is the rubbers below as we stock them
As for the metal pins that slide in to the caliper itself , soak brake cleaner down there and just pry it out.
Then use putoline race grease, it is good stuff!
The sidestand is definitely Wire One (BLACK & WHITE) and Wire 2 (SOLID BROWN usually or brown/black) – It goes to the CDI unit.
So i would join the two wires mentioned above ^ , then it is bypassed.
While the harness is exposed, you would take extra time to remove more of the tape and make sure there isn’t anymore fishy jobs except Korea’s factory crimping of joining common wires. Do not panic if you see 6x orange wires join at one spot then branch off as 2 wires again. That’s korea!
Sounds like the sprag clutch behind the flywheel has gone. (I hope not)
But open the magneto casing, then remove the flywheel carefully, look at the sprag clutch , if its ok, it could be due to missing teeth on the “Flywheel Sprocket”
Yes , we deliver worldwide every day:-)
Send us an email below
And i will give you a quote.
The reason IE / UK is at checkout is because it is domestic to us , deliveries are free to those countries. All other countries have changed laws in logistics and also not every shipping company is the same price, so we try to find the cheapest quote possible , do not worry we’re quick to reply to any sales emails 🙂
I hope you tell all your members to join this forum because i would love to see the Japanese scene and all your rides 🙂
I will look for the GV125-S manual for you. Do you own a new GV-S model ? or is it for your friend ? Because i can see the nice orange one in your picture.
Such a young bike and new model from Hyosung it shouldn’t ever have this kind of problem but it’s a motorcycle like any other brand, strange things happen beyond human control much like cars
So i definitetly thing its the battery system.
If the regulator (very common Hyosung and Suzuki thing) has stopped charging the battery and the bike was basically dying down as the battery ran down, then it sounds like a regulator change is a very good idea.
As simon says the EFi system is more fragile in terms of electrical sensetivities , it doesn’t like flactuations, a steady 14v supply is a happy bike. I have been meaning to do upgraded regulators for these EFi bikes anyways (9/10 of Hyosung riders on earth tend to change the regulators on their older models especially carbies)
Keeps the stator happy too! (A very costly item mind you) , so whatever we do , we make sure we don’t have to replace the stator unless last resort if bike isn’t charging.
if your meter is working = rev to 8k , rev to 3k , and 5k , tell us the voltages the bike is making.
Infact , while the battery is charged, let it run on battery , unhook the stator plugs that have 3 yellow wires near battery , switch to AC , rev to 5K, and tell us AC volts each single yellow wire makes (as it’s called 3 phase system)
ie. out of each 3 yellow wires at 5k revs
Pin 1 / Pin 2 = 80v
Pin 2 / Pin 3 = 80v
Pin 3 / Pin 1 = 20vThen it means stator replacement time, if all 3 lines don’t match their AC volts. Thus in return, if its spiking, it will cook the reg, then the battery, then the electronics (which at that point they start spazzing out)
It would require studying the wiring of the carb vs EFi electronics, as the EFi dash does have a chip that also checks its an EFi motor sending signals
As you have a 650 ,(i’ve never tried it yet personally), the fuel gauge and temp sensor may have different expectations of OHM readings.
I know for sure EFi and carb coils have different OHM readings , so the tacho may act funny or not work at all.
Speed MPH = Solid green wire usually. Works fine.
High Beam, Left, Right, Neutral = Doesn’t care if its EFi or Carb = it will light up if you align wires correctly.I’d suggest getting a 2.8mm 9PIN electric plug and many wires , then electric connector [rectangle block] , that way you can make up your own dash harness without chopping your precious OEM ones if you ever decide to go back 🙂
Also adding to Simon’s good reply.
If the pads are half way done, the pistons don’t really like to stick out too much (more dirt wants to rust it up etc…) so defo cleaning & inspection is in order.
If need be, flush and re-bleed brakes with fresh DOT4 , brake fluid is usually good for 2-4yrs max. (no matter the miles.), Time is its enemy
As per simon, trust me, the 2016 is very sensetive to signal losses on the clutch handle switch (don’t bypass it) just order a new unit (we have loads)
Also if there is a side stand = bypass and join wires and waterproof it very hard.Now , last big war is the stator unit because it has a “PickUp Sensor” embedded in it. If that thing goes, nothing will spark , it needs the stator pulse sensor in good order
Sometimes it fails randomly due to heat (means unit is now giving up ghost) or simple old age , it’s not doom & gloom , it happens to most bikes sometimes not just Hyosung. I hope it doesn’t come to this but please keep us posted.
So after reading a manual I found online, the code is engine temperature high voltage circuit. The blink code is 10-1-1-8. The 10 blinks means 0 then it’s 1-1-8. Hope this helps the next person going crazyThank you for sharing that wisdom, I am very glad you cracked it! – Just the ET sensor to to replace!
Though, i am even more glad you did not throw it off the cliff , i like your patience lol.
If 6 and 7 are required, i don’t think Hyosung sells them anymore or makes them even though it is KAYABA that’s involved, i may have a suspicion your local guy will take your old forks and try to match up with other Kayaba parts used on other suzukis . If i’ve known Hyosung all these years , here in UK USD forks are pricy items! – So we try to fix them locally as much as we can.
so little update, it was perfect since i fixed it, and yesterday it started making excessive chain noise. like normal chain noise but louder (loud enough that i can hear it in my helmet next to lories) and only occurs every 5-10 teeth. i can mostly hear it while driving slowly, i was afraid that it was falling off agian, but the sprocket seems to be tight and the washer is still bent around the nut. any ideas?
Get front sprocket cover off.
Put the bike in “paddock stands”
Make sure is in neutral.Use your eyes very sharply and spin the rear wheel……. and check these
- Front sprocket , is it wobbling sideways ? or is it spinning straight?
- Rear sprocket , is it wobbling ?
Remove rear wheel safely, and check your sprocket “DRUM” , remove the sprocket drum (carrier/holder) and spin the bearings…..
if your rear sprocket bearing is crunchy (not smooth) or feels wobbly when spinning it with your finger, replace it.Also check your rear wheel bearings.
Once it is done, put the bike back on paddock stands , spin the rear wheel….check if the chain is moving smoothly and isnt got any dead spots ? or chain isnt going up and down ….under the swingarm while the wheel is spinning.
Let us know!
Sometimes a situation like that (“sprocket washer has come off”) can also do funny things to sprockets like warp them or bend chain a little bit , i hope everything is okay as it is a new kit we have just sent you already. Gotta say safe on the road
That is for a GV-Aquila Hence it has a “–dash—” in the middle compared to yours
GV125 = Longer, for GT bikes. They have a bit airbox, carb must reach to it.
GV–125 = shorter , for aquilas , they have smaller airbox above the engine.Send us an email (contact at the very bottom of this forum page) about the manifolds, we can fix for you with our cnc man, as he has he own methods of sorting intake pipes he keeps to his chest , we’re fixing intake pipes this week anyways.
Thanks. Largest annoyance with the dressed bikes, is to undress for simplest tasks & service. Undresses, but not shy:
It is still very clean and pretty!
Great updates!
Haha, i will also tell my Titanium Guy you loved the bolts and used them on the rearsets, that is new to us! – I like it 🙂
I thought you would keep a spare copy of bolts, if you wanted to add extra brake disc to front wheel.
Do you want Naked Throttle wire ? I can get it anytime but i will add it to shop as this week i’ve started to add catalogue items for GV125/GV650 , so i will do GT naked too.
Remember , GT Naked uses a SQUARE shape switch right , and throttle cable is more flat, so it may feel awkward using Naked cable on GTR curvy/smooth switch right.
Annoyingly , we can’t use GT Naked right switch on GT125 RC harness, pins change , unless you want to be an electric wizard 😉 !Welcome to the site, i am loving the influx of more GV Aquila riders , while i love every model as i own 3 variations (GV, GT, GTR) , the member counts on GV was a little low , so again, good to have you onboard.
Any problems , the forum is welcome for your questions! Otherwise, i hope you are having a good summer.
Do share pictures when you return 😀
I only have about 1900 miles on it. I have been doing more forest roads with my other bike. I still have my valve shim kit sitting on the bench. As long as it starts well, I am putting off doing valves until (if)I take a real trip on it. Otherwise I’ll do that on a cold dreary day this autumn. I did adjust out a bunch of throttle cable slop this past week. Still on my first oil and filter change. It takes about 2 1/2 hours to do 85 miles in these parts.
That’s very small, some of us in UK can easily do 1K in one month lol. (Heavy use , so to say!) – It loves oil changes sooner than the manual states , it makes it known by how smooth everything feels from gearbox , to clutch bite etc…. Do keep an eye on the clutch plates, its a torquey little twin 😉 , around 4K max is usually a good time to change the plates unless you have upgraded ones that may last a little bit longer.
Oh, it loves to eat brakes 😉 , so carbon ceramic or sintered ebc hh is usually a good call since you drive distant places on some occassions (if not all)
BIG WELCOME!!!!!!
You will love the GV-S bobber , as i know a few people in UK actually love it more after they start personalizing it (beauty is of the beholder)
But as a stock looking bike, Korea did a good job design wise!
I will look forward to your pictures, we need more GV members 🙂
