♠️ M77
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I think the Korean’s did a very good job with Mukuni Japan to make a “custom DF series” pump for Hyosungs.
The GV250 uses the same pump as a GV650 carby = it means the GV250 will not be able to max it out. The vacuum pump is poweful enough to run a 650cc already.
If it has problems, you can replace it (but they rarely fail except bad debris from fuel , crap fuel (e10) , or just simply very old age kicking in)
An electric pump would put more strain on the stator unit and the regulator because the regulator sits “under the seat” , it does not get enough air cooling , compared to a GV650/GT650 to cool down the regulator.
The “floats” for the carb can’t handle anymore extra psi , henceforward the “vacuum pump” works in “pulse fasion” , it pumps more as the carbs demand more.
For “simplicity” and efficiency , i would recommend less electronics on a carb bike , after all the stator it uses has less watts than an EFi model and it also has less poles than an EFi model.
The EFi models use electric pumps but they have updated stators to handle it and a 30A relay dedicated for a pump, it is resource hungry.
Tried your last. No result unfortunately
i have a feeling it’s time to get a new harness and ECU at this rate.
Otherwise , can you confirm please
– If the bike ignition plug is removed it still runs?
– if the starter motor is disconnect , it still runs?
– If you remove the HT caps ? what happens ?Sorry to ask these 3 , if you could give me 3 answers , it helps be sure what the actual cause is because it’s not a carb bike (easy to diagnose) but an EFi model, so we have more electronics to be careful with that’s all .
How is preload adjusted? Thanks again. Paul
Usually shortcuts are taken by adding very strong spacers on the springs , like some of the suzuki owners do (as some Suzukis do have KYB forks like Hyosung does but ofcourse Hyosung likes to be different design wise to avoid copyrights i guess)
How about this ….
Start the bike again , and turn key off
Then quickly go to the starter motor and disconnect its wireLet us know if that helped?
Also quickly unhook the fuse box and ignition barrel so there is no power in the harness…
The ST7 enjoying Welsh sunshine, and proving to be a hen magnet.We know the ST7 is the better chick in the garden , that right bird can fly off that tarmac indeed 😉
Nice scenery! 😀
Do not worry i will watch this topic all day today
If the bike keeps running when ignition is off , do you get
- any lights on dash?
- rpm gauge moving?
- can you use headlights and indicators?
I want to ask these so i can break down what it actually could be
Welcome, it is good to have you. Hope the summer is treating you well, speaking of good outdoors, do share some pictures of your ride , if you’re out!
Usually the fork is 50% preloaded or 60% , that is if its all the way zero and all the way full (excercise trail and error here) , or for example if it takes 10 full turns, assume 6 turns is the sweet spot , complimented with 15w fork oil but 10w is OK. Korea tends to put the soft 5w which is too thin over here in UK with our winding roads lol.
If you take apart the fork assembly and inspect anything that’s causing the screw to go in a continous loop or you may have to rebuild/replace the faulty fork part.
If you have a GT250R that is carb model , it uses 2 relays
- lights control = 4pin. By the battery
- turn signals = 3 pin. by the battery too.
For starting the bike , it will be a “golfball” shaped Solenoid that has 1x thick battery wire going straight to it. and a 2pin plug from the harness (CDI and switch gear triggers it) and other side of the solenoid, has a long wire going to the starter motor.
Hey welcome aboard, I hope you can share what you learned and if you need help , just ask away in this forum,
Usually i’ve been told my answers and Simon’s have helped many lurkers in the forum too!
Well done!
Sounds like you could do a mini wiki topic on this forum to help other GV-S owners with your experiences (ie. If you have a GV125-S , dos & donts ) somewhere along those lines.
Well done!
Get ACF50 though, and put a little drop of that stuff in every single connector you can find, it will thank you!
Yes, but i wouldn’t really recommend bypassing the clutch handlebar switch. I’ve experienced myself a few times where the bike says it is “neutral” but as soon as i press start , the bike kicks forward and falls down , causing me a visual expensive and damaged bars lol.
Side-Stand ? Yes bypass it.
Poor girl 🙁 , hope you fix the caliper and take care of it well and do also check the rear master cylinder is good and isn’t stuck with dirt inside the rubber shroud, i know this because i pressed mine and it jammed open causing caliper to bite disc as i was riding but thankfully , i knew it was service time for it , this was on another test hyosung GT i purchased and sold it to a friend. The previous owner did not look after it, he left it in garden to rot for most of the year exposed to bad weather
I’ve not tried jumpstarting it…or even know if that would work. Will need to find some jump leads. At the moment i’m getting 12.8v at the battery and live side of the ignition switch but nothing after that…nothing on the dash/dials, lights, etc.
Also locate the fuse box , don’t jump start while a car or van or truck is running, it will fry the bike.
Also while at it, check all connectors for water invasions or dirt. Plus check for signs of shorting along the harness incase something to do with water invasion or fraying from the steering area down to the airbox
Is the bike running?
test the voltage idling and also 5k revs at the battery point.Also test the stator using my previous reply ? you want to make sure that thing is healthy.
EFI – Snappy throttle response when all parts work perfectly
Cons = More cash for parts if ECU or stator goes wrong (but carb or efi is recommended to upgrade regulators)
EFi – Try to get a DELPHI system as it is a bit more stable.
Cons = DAEWOO ECU is hard to buy , so make sure to look after it!And what Simon said about EFi bikes too in terms of tuning
Carby = Easier to tune, less electronics.
Cons = Carbs do not like bad tanks or dirty fuel , and difficult to buy a new carb!EFi and Carby Cons = They do not like E10 fuel. Use e5 forever.
Image appears broken, can you upload directly on this site again one more time ?
And any info you need to know just ask away 😀 – Overall they are good Korean bikes, but like any motorcycle, key to longevity is beating what the engineers say in their manuals , which we have uploaded many of them in the “Technical Section” of this site, under 65o manuals.
For Fuel Gauge Reading = It is Yellow/Black (wire one) and it goes straight to the dashboard. And second wire is Black/White , it is just basically ground to chassis or battery negative.
Does this help ? If i missed something in your post shout away.
You can still save the harness , strip it all down , patch what you can and use MANNOL Harness Tape (recommended) or similar
For connector (plug) it is called “2.6mm (i think)” “Auto Car Electric Plug” it is what hyosung uses for that 2pin style connector, it is the same connector style used for
– side stand switch (sometimes this is bypassed by last owners and recommended to bypass!)
– Rear Number Plate Light
