♠️ M77
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The 125cc models defintely do , but for GV650 i would say most models now just drink the whole tank down to zero but you would basically keep an eye on the fuel gauge bar as it can be optimistic!
2 bars left usually means “Fill up now!” , as i have learned the hard way haha
Welcome Andrew,
You made the right choice with the GV650- Looks good, and it is a cruiser but a bit sporty
- Vtwin , but can sling shot away at full throttle if you want to!
- Big girl
- Heavy as you said, but keeps you planted on the road
- Comfy position to ride.
I have to say i haven’t been to Isle of wight , but i am all the way up north of england. However you being at the southern most of UK, you should have better sunny temps than the cold north , enjoy it while you can and the sea scenery!
Hello . I checked spark plugs. they all give the same spark. it’s not the spark’s fault.for the rear cylinder to start working. must choke to max . and I have a question if when we give choke . throttle is closed or very slightly open ? . and unfortunately . when I can make it work on both cylinders. I twist air mixture screw . nothing happens .
Now it makes sense , it sounds you definitely need the carbs removed
- Have them ultrasonic cleaned first (as it has many holes inside)
- Check to make sure pilots are size 15 each
- Set mixture to 2.5 full turns out, (Never ever touch this screw again, no matter the issues), this is close to Korea set up of 2.5 front / 2.75 rear
- Main Jets should be 87.5 front and 90 rear if bike is completely stock or 90 front or 92.5 if it has any exhaust mods (any)
- Set the slide need to rich mode
- Make sure float height is 7mm.
If in doubt, replace floats and also replace the gold float seats and float needle on the bike from a rebuild kit. It will thank you for it.
For carb jetting , slide mode , see tutorials in the “TutoriaL” section of this forum 🙂
Do not worry , keep the original carbs, nothing on the market beats genuine mikunis. And they have more than enough power for a 500cc those carbs even a small GS Suzuki 250E bike.
Right, let’s narrow this down bit by bit.
How good is the sparking ? what happens if you change front and rear coils ?
Fitted fresh CR8E plugs ? (it is to rule out plug faults too)
Keep HT caps in mind , the oem HT caps are always sketchy.And what jets (pilots and mains are inside the carb?)
I am more than happy that you managed to get rid of the taxing device. Sorry, it is what is it, electric taxati0n the bike doesn’t need
But hey, check out “KIES” Heated Apparel and get their gloves & power bank which you can wear in your pocket even while walking around, great bits of kit and plus you charge at home. No need to hack around the bike anymore and you’re all set for winter
As per simon 🙂
If you have a Side-Stand switch , please cut it , throw it high to space.
Then the wires that near the harness , join them (bypass trick) , then the bike will always think the stand switch is connected. It will then have no reason to cut out.
Sometimes the vibrations during rides will trip the switch (useless junk switch) , will tell the bike to cut sparks off as if you put a stand down while riding!
Hyosung calls this “ignition interlocking” system that involves stand switch and clutch switch and the kill switch + key ignition. Before sparks come to life.
Don’t forget to waterproof everything you do with good quality tape. (Exposed wires can be a fire hazard or rain will rust things up)
Hi again. As per your advice measured the compression it’s 12bar on each cilinder. Took of carburetor took it apart and cleaned everything. Put it back together now it starts but won’t rev up. Dies as soon as any throttle applied. Checked for vacuum leaks with brake cleaner all seems good. New spark plugs. Upgraded fuel filter from your site. Hoses not bent fuel coming through. Fuel pump has pressure when pipe removed shoot petrol out. Complete lost at this stage.
Applying revs and bike conks out and dies usually (always) means:
- Pilot Jets and Main Jets are clogged again (the holes are almost microscopic)
- See tutorial section of this site and follow every carb tuning guide to help the bike if you can.
- Fuel has gone stale
- E10 ? (if yes, drain it all and put E5 back in)
- Slides (diaphragms) for carb are jammed or sticky
- Carb needs complete disassembly , and put in an ultrasonic bath (it has many & many holes inside) it will love you for it. Trust me on that.
- Carb Floats are bent => revs applied => pilots can’t reach to draw more fuel and bike conks out & dies
Put it this way, as you allow more air in, it should smoothly rev up or we have fuel woes again and likely electric woes (entire sparking system including stator)
But electrics will be the last war
12bar ? is that on hot and as per my instructions ? How sure was the mechanic or you watched him ?
Hi,
Its not giving me a error message and in text mode it shows the picture text and in visual it dont show anything
I understand now, it is was because the picture was in a .heic format, perharps your PC or Phone should have an app to convert images to .jpg , jpeg, png as this site supports so it shows on any device on the world that reads this site.
Sorry for the run around, it is because .heic isn’t widely popular yet on the web.
Sounds like these should immediately resolve the issues for good (and it is common, even with other brands)
- Carbs = Take them off.
Verify they are Size 20 Pilots
Verify Main Jets are correct.
See tutorial below
https://hyoriders.club/forums/forum/paddock-stand-pit-stop/hyosung-tutorials-guides-diagrams/ - Check the fuel pipes are not old or replace them. Use the link above for fuel diagrams.
- Replace or clean the fuel tap under the tank.
- Open the FUEL pump that is on the frame and use carb cleaner to clean gently
Next up, since the carb is apart , do the following
- Do the “Slide Mod” tutorial (recommended)
- Get the carbs involved in an ultrasonic cleaning process, it really really pays off.
Fuel = Try to use E5 grade fuel. if you have fuel that is E10 grade, you will have problems because there is nothing positive about using E10 grade fuel that some pumps wan’t to introduce , your country may have it under a different name but we call it E5 and E10 here in UK.
What kind of errors do you get on the site ?
It should work, as below i just put a test picture using the “Add Media” button on the reply box
I would not use IX plugs because Hyosung’s hate them. The best plugs for them are normal CR8E or “LASER” type spark plugs.
The reason why you are also conking out on higher gear / higher revs is because the fuel tap is on it’s way out.
I would replace the pump also if it acts suspicious but 10000000% replace the tap.
Wonderful guide. You explained it well!
I bet next time for you it will be piss easy haha.
The rubber will fit OK.
And no need for injection hole on the rear , if the front rubber pipe has injection hole for the rear fuel pump.
You are lucky to even still acquire rubbers because they are already difficult to get haha
Might go as what you recommend sir, Since the slip say the original color of the bike is black
Before I send you an email sir, lets us gather any bearings involve on the bike This is as far as I know: * Steering stem * Swingarm * Linkage * Wheels * Sprocket hub Anything that I’m missing sir?Nope, looks good.
Send us the email 🙂If possible please, can you ride to any bike shop or car shop. Tell them exactly this (takes 10mins while you are stood there)
- Make sure engine is warm (if owner has arrived, you may test right away)
- Remove both front and rear spark plugs
- Get a compression tester Gauge and use a “STRAIGHT METAL PIPE” end (as flexi hose will be inaccurate, no buts)
- Hold the throttle on FULL OPEN position (FULL Throttle)
- Crank the bike for 5 seconds max.
- Record compression of the rear cylinder.
- Repeat for front cylinder head.
- Fit everything back & return customer bike
Come back to this forum and tell us how much compression bike has.
Keep in mind
this assumes the “Solenoid” is new and healthy or it will spin the starter motor slow, giving false readings
this assumes the “starter motor” is replaced , if it has issues of spinning slow all the time (it must crank fast)
this assumes the “battery is charged”
If in doubt, please ask bike shop or halfords for a free battery life test (not volts, but it’s cranking power) using their “YUASA LOAD GAUGE PROBE”
Keep us posted!
As you are in Wakefield, are you able to go to Startrights Motorcycles and tell them “marcel said i should ask for Comet SLIM Fork Seals” , the guy (shop owner) will literally go out of his way to get the seals or even fit them while you hand over the forks to them. They stock so many seals , believe me they have them im sure.
Due to the bike having a small stator unit, have you considered the heated grips may draw more than the stator can cope and the regulator ?
The 25 / 650 bikes are OK to handle this, but it’s something i’d mention since , being an EFi 125cc, it already is way more taxed in electric power than a carb 125 would be. (EFi system mean’t for a 250cc , was shoved in to 125cc to please Euro 4-5 laws , crazy i know.The battery won’t be too much of an issue once the bike runs as it will running off the stator for the most part.
Next up, it sounds long and silly, by any chance you taken the bike apart , get contact cleaner, and clean every single plug you can find (lest sometimes signals are just not strong enough for the whole electric system to feed off the harness before it cranks the bike.
Use acf50 inside every plug also, it really helps a million miles away.
Now if you also press start , do you even hear any “click” sounds coming from the solenoid ?
If the display doesn’t turn on , does the rest of the bike turn on ? like indicators , lights, horn etc.. ?
If the bike doesn’t eventually crank, does it crank fast or slow ?
It’s a lot i am asking but it does help my brain narrow things down the more you tell us 🙂
Also sounds silly, if it is 2023 model, it should be covered in warranty to replace anything it requires by the dealer you got it from as the electric issues may not be your fault (but if they see grips , they may void it) ?
A purple frame will look nice 😉 with all black plastics .
I will warn though, certain bearings cost a stupid amount here in UK but i can get them if you want all the bearings related to the swingarm.
Can you send me an email please with your address if you want me to do any shipping quotes for you below
Swing Arm, has multiple places for bearings, can you confirm which bearings in the rear swing arm are needed? see below
- PIVOT AREA (where swingarm joins frame)
- LINKAGE DOGS (where shock joins the dog bones at the bottom of swing arm)
Steering Yoke, see below
- Both Trianlge shape bearings ? Or just top or lower ?
If it helps, pictures are welcome and i will dig for you
It sounds stupid , but is there any chance you can get a compression tester and use the “METAL ROD” not the flexi hose.
And crank the bike for 5 seconds with both spark plugs out and full throttle.
Check what PSI each engine head makes ? on a cold state.
