♠️ M77
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When the lights go dimm, it means 3 things
- I know its tested but i highly bet the battery drops volts and amps as fast as you press “start” , because it’s asking to spin the starter, supply power to cdi and coils etc to spark 10,000 volts pulses to the plugs to fire up.
- Solenoid could be gone yes
- Starter Motor has gone weak (thus causing extra battery drain) – Replace it or open it to inspect starter motor bushes but drain bike oil first before removing starter motor.
Also when lights go dimm, does the dashboard go dimm too? do you hear a click ? buzzing like flies? or thud-thud ?
Finally got round to taking a picture somewhere nice. Went out for a ride to the coast Friday night. Bike is running well….except since fixing the electrical issue i have, well, an electrical issue! The indicators are temperamental…sometimes they work sometimes they don’t. Anyway something to fix at some point to stop me needing to use arm signals!!
If she can get you by the waters, then shes good to go, albeit a few niggles to fix but all in all she looks good! 🙂
It is okay, sorry i was not clear.
On your handlebar for the clutch, there is a switch wire , follow it. And check it is connected.
Temporary use paper clip to join the 2 bullet connectors (do it safe)
Then check for sparks on the bike.
Make sure to squeeze clutch lever before startingWe want to see if a “temporary” bypass of the clutch switch wire works.
Also check side stand , follow its wires, you will see a “BLACK 2PIN” plug under the airbox that has 1x brown wire and 1x black wire.
Bypass them forever, the side stand switch is very annoying on carb bikes, it is not great!
Just remember to check side stand before you ride away! 🙂Then we shall focus on the switch gear is working correctly or not… it will be the last item to tell solenoid(big golf ball relay near battery) to crank the bike.
This sounds crazy but are you very certain the
- Clutch Lever Switch is working ? = if not, cdi cuts sparks off.
- Side Stand Switch (bypass it)
A carb bike will still “crank” without sparks, if the Solenoid circuit is complete all the way to the cdi and switch gear.
It even cranks without a CDI and reg rec.
So i’d look at the right switch gear is actually sending the signal to trigger the solenoid to spin the starter motor >?
I have already changed the oil and the oil filter, but the problem remains. I suspect that gasoline would slowly come into the oil because there is no other fluids in the engine.
That would also be correct. It would cause hydro locking issues and many issues like soon replacing pistons, crank , cylinder heads etc….
Oil will smell of fuel.
This means carb floats need changing / adjusting , change float seats (because they jammed and allow fuel in to cylinders when bike is off) , change float seat needles , and finally look at investigating the tank tap and also fuel pump , if you have doubts, its cheaper to replace all fuel parts i mentioned than rebuild an engine 🙂
Fake Emissions Device.
Very very useless on carb bikes.
Korea puts EGR (infamous name) but correct word is “AIS” / 2nd Air Valve to make bike emissions less in stricter EU countriesHere in UK we don’t care , we don’t get checked for emissions on carb bikes, so it is legal for us to remove it for now, thats why we sell the blanks
EGR Valve Blanking Plate / AiS Delete Block Off Kit – Various Hyosung Carb Models
Bike is happier = why? More vacuum energy is going to the fuel pump now , instead of sharing vacuum energy to pump , tap , and AIS(EGR) device.
The bike will make less pop sounds too. Exhaust may sound a tiny bit better.
1999-2002 GV engines did not have it.
If you remove it, make sure to blank the ports , like below
How to change Vacuum Lines on Hyosung GT125R GT250R & GT Comet (Air Hose Diagram)
Ignore the bike is a GT above ^ , the instructions also help GV bikes , they have the same engines and carbs (125cc GT/GV included)
When you press start, do you…..
- hear any buzzing ?
- fuel pump priming ?
- lights on dash going dimm if you press start?
- however small thing you notice, tell us … after pressing “start”
That is indeed very strange.
To confirm this, get a bucket that has 0.5 , 1.0 , 1.5 , 2.0L markers inside.
Drain the oil and see how much is drained off.
If it is 1.5L exactly , it should be OK because there is no other place engine can get more oil without Rider adding more inside 😉
However, if it is 1.8L , then it is OK as that is max level the whole engine consumes (because of left over oil from crank , stator , flywheel , clutch , oil cooler, valve head….sometimes not all of the oil is drained away) thats why korea says put 1.5L next time you service bike or 1.6L max if you also change oil filter.
Also change oil filter now to be on safe side.
If the bike “cranks” , the Stator unit’s pickup sensor must tell the black box on the bike to engage sparking system (coils and caps)
I’d look at the stator pickup sensor , it might be reading 100 ohms stand still, but may read zero if crank spins , so it can flactuate if it is wanning (wanning parts trigger the black box to cut sparks off)
Check also side-stand switch (bypass it and waterproof it well)
Clutch Switch (don’t bypass, as fake neutrals can happen and you don’t want to start her and watch the bike fall down when it’s in first gear even though it says Neutral, a squeeze on the lever gaurantees your presence as you crank to start and let it idle when its safe to let go of the lever)
HT wire – could be breaking up inside ?
That is if the HT Cap itself is on a good ohm spec by its own.
Hope this helps and keep us updated
Get a good quality motorcycle tyre tube and rubber glue in your country that supports “HIGH HEAT” , and wrap around the intake intake pipe and patch it careful , that should help give it more life until you get replacemennt rubbers.
Sooty plugs also mean air filter is dirty (causing rich condition) , if the coils and caps are okay. Try fresh CR8E plugs and ride a little bit, then see your true plug colors again.
Spraying carb cleaner at the intake pipes helps (it has o-Rings under it) , sometimes they need replacing like these below
Intake Pipe O-RING (Inlet Boot Seals) x2 – GV125 GT125 RX125 GV250 GT250 Hyosung
Also spray around the airbox on top of the carbs, incase airbox is not sitting on carbs properly. It might leak out air.
Please do and i will share also on the shop galleries, much appreciated for your patience, give it about a week since im waiting also on a box of oil filters for Gv125-S EFi and Hyosung 650 bikes. Ride easy for now 🙂
Thanks for your replies and encouragement guys. I will follow your advice and get back. As for the intake rubbers, well that is another concern because while I was replacing the plugs I noticed that they were in a reasonably bad shape so if I do end up having to take out the carbs I am going to need to replace those. Following Marcel’s remarks about availability I’ve had a quick browse on the internet and it does look like I might be in trouble. Do you guys have any recommendations about where I could possibly source these? Thanks again.
i’ll always find a way to get intake pipes , believe me , my ebay is the one that has the most stock , and i’m always hunting. Do not worry but yes they are getting very difficult to get.
I bet you can’t wait to retire! You don’t have much time left in the workforce lol, you been waiting for this havent you ?
I will dig around and upload it but you can always ask in the forum what specific parts are giving you trouble.
If its the harness = Easy, but very very very long job -> meter check each wire colour end to end to see if circuit is complete
Stock size rubber is plenty. Going with larger/heavier tyres will only make steering and directional changes lethargic. Not to mention negatively affecting acceleration and deceleration.
Good points there!
Now that i’m getting used to the bike and i’m doing more miles, i’m thinking about taking it on a few longer days or multi-day trips around scotland. I was looking at https://hyoriders.club/shop/chains-sprockets/520-upgrade-chain-sprocket-kit-conversion-hyosung-gv125s-efi-injected/ but it says for 2020 onwards, whereas mine is the fuel injected version but 2019. Any ideas if this would fit? Thanks!
Yes it will fit. As long as it is the injected model as pictured in the shop galley.
They came to UK in 2019 but didn’t start getting REG plates until 2020 , so likely means you got the very early batches and dealer just wanted to slap a 19 plate on it!
Thanks for your interest, I want to make these kits popular and see how they perform with a larger customer pool as the bikes start to get more common now.
Hello gentlemen i have an 09 hyosung fi gv650 was running and ever since I disturbed the stator region it”s a no goer…. I would like to update my system inc regulator rectifier something that is compatible with the ecu wich is a s&t daewoo ecu…any recommendations..is there another ecu like a performance ecu i can upgrade to… Appreciate your input gents
Got your email, so i will wait for your reply 🙂
From your pics, that nut is basically just to hold the rod to the metal upside U bracket, you have the weaker design 125 shock, so they commonly go out. I would get the older design shocks you see on my ebay. There is even a spare new shape 125 shock im selling on ebay as “spares/repairs” , don’t get this one, it’s just to show how weak it is.
The handling will change yes going wider but in my experience the stock sizes did a fantastic job. The only best upgrade for tyres is using Michlin Pilot Road 2 to Road 5
Which such stickyness and quality michelin tyre, you do not need to worry about going wider , other brands always have “confidence” issues and are always twicy in wet winter days. Hence i will forever love michelins. Bridgestone is my only backup.
is it possible to show us a picture of your shock ? The reason is because the GT’s have the old gen and the new gen shocks for the 125R models. The 125R suffers a lot with the new gen shocks, so we tend to sell the old gen ones which last way better and despite their tatty looks, their age proves their longevity.
