♠️ M77
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Bushes in some regions (funny enough) can actually be refered as dust seals and oil seals , unless do you have a picture of the actual part and ill confirm what you are saying or what happened to your old ones ?
Sorry i saw this late!Problem with Yamaha’s is that 90% of their own parts sometimes do not work on the Hyosungs because the requirements of a Hyosung , to differ for Yamaha . Hence even if we have their twin carbs, you will see even the exterior parts differ in some places , i’d stick with Korea’s manuals even tho they can be vague sometimes lol. A part from a yamaha that is 1mm off , tends to throw things off real bad , i found out the hard way (Marcel must not buy Yamaha carbs!) , hell we can’t even use their own float covers without issues later lol.
How many miles have you put on her so far ? And did you have to do any service ? Since we are about to enter the full swing of summer!
Simon is correct 🙂
Also the “parking mini” light that’s inside the headlight shell , the wires are usually thinner , and the harness powers them directly. Wire colour is usually either:
Orange
Whiteor
Orange
Black/Whiteor
Orange
Grey🙂
If in doubt , take a picture and post it here
It is correct , Korea down jetted the bike heavily for emissions control for certain EU countries .
However, 82.5 on a GT bike would surely see its piston rings go pop!
I would definitely recommend the upjetting settings mentioned in the tutorial . The bike would be a lot better! (This doesn’t grant you license to use “shorty teeny” slush exhaust cans cause the bike drastically looses speed!)
If you need sound louder than the monstrosity of the single cannon , you can expand the hole at the can outlet (get creative!) but i do have twin exhausts on ebay that are VERYYYYY loud , but work seemly OK as long as the bike is jetted well!
Welcome!
As long as you love the Hyosung, it will love you back lol. It may look simple but it works very well when parts stay good.
Do check that leak, otherwise its a bad day if oil slips on to your tyres while riding with passenger!
I’d still change the tyres haha! – Here we wouldn’t dare use 20yo tyres in UK climate, its just too icy winter, yikes!
Keep an eye on ebay . i may strip one of a used carb soon , costly things to get new anyways. You had our replies on email.
The bike “can live” without it but ofcourse ideally it should have it , i know.
Make sure you fold washer very hard and tight 3x , always check the nut every few miles to be sure.
You can use “LOCTITE BLUE” only on the threads of shaft , then tighten it
Should be 60 ft lbs torque for that shaft 🙂
Aww , sorry to hear that man! – Never a good thing to hear a story like this but i have great hope in this.
Right, i assume you’re handy with the meter ?
So check AC output of the stator at 5k revs and tell us if all 3 yellow wires are same voltage or variances ?
eg.Yellow 1 & Yellow 2 =
Yellow 2 & Yellow 3Yellow 3 & Yellow 1
You should get 3 AC readings from these 3 combinations above.
Then advise us if there is anyone locally (any bike shop) that carries a YUASA BATTERY LOAD METER (it’s got a screen and it will literally say “battery good, battery bad, charge system OK (regulator test between idling and 5k revs) ?
Remove the front sprocket cover and please check your sprocket nut hasn’t accidently vibrated loose off!
I fear for the shaft… i hope its threads are okay 🙁
We have had it happen loads here in UK, hence i sell the nuts and washers and usually advise owners to tighten nut hard and fold washer 3x as if to hug the nut tight.
Wonderful tutorial!
Very nice write. Now they have an option to follow either of our guides yours or mine that says “box removal” because it still involve boots coming out 😉Great stuff! 😀
Hey,
The airbox comes out first , if you can’t do it sidewaysThe injectors are held down by a plastic cap that has a fuel pipe sticking out. The plastic cap itself screws in to the metal body of the throttle bodies
Gently but a firm grip will pop them out! (only after the plastic caps holding the injectors down is taken off)
If it helps , please take a picture and post on this forum so we see how far you have gone ?
Sounds like the regulator is wanning , have you downloaded the EFI manual on this forum , (even the 650 one is okay since it uses the same regulator as Gv250 EFi) , so the voltage requirements by korea is the same.
Check voltage at idle
check voltage at 5k revs
After that, go to the section about testing the stator.
Check output of stator (AC volt)
Check ohms of stator and its pickup sensor too (when bike is ice cold)
I say get her and this forum is always open for suggestions and guidance 🙂
You will be okay to fix it , as long as engine isn’t blown up , it will be rescued 😉
The 2003-2005 650 bikes and ALL 125 GT bikes use the same grey TCTC caliper until 2020 for 125 and up to 2005 ish for older big sister bikes.
The black ones do not say anything but are much much bigger and have 4 pistons inside. The forks are black for a 650 with bigger spaced out gaps for mounting the bigger calipers directly
grey calipers use 2 pistons. and use a plate to mount to the 125 forks or grey old 650 forks (floating caliper) , rather than bolted direct to the fork leg.
Hopefully i made sense ?
Welcome to the forum!
You ain’t kidding, the 650cc and 250cc bikes are much harder here in UK to acquire. It is commonly the 125cc motorcycles we see in UK and EU that take most of the market share, so Korea keeps chunning them out lol.However, we do have some news though that new models are headed to both US and UK in regards to the 650, they are doing GV’s first as that’s their flagship vtwins (hence the GTs come years later , having used GV engines inside them!)
Surely there is a dealer near you that should be inporting the newer GV300S to us , as it’s already out worldwide since 2021 , if that’s the kind of bike you like.
As for GT new models , no news yet (and they know we expecting it lol) – Expectations may be high!
Yes, you are not crazy , it has parts inside as you mentioned.
We have the tap in stock on the shop, should you need it.
It is not meant to be opened as Korea never made rebuild kits for them but tap failures made in Korea are common , hence i don’t stock em, i have more faith in the uprated ones we stock, they never bothered.
Replace fuel filter & lines! {lest old debris in lines soon clog filter)
If your tank is empty , get air compressor , (remove the fuel sensor first!) , and blow all the debris out of it. No chemicals. required at this stage.
Thanks Marcel there black so I guess I will have to be on lookout for black caliper thanks
You can ask anyone around your area , that does metal fabrications, and a nice thick metal sheet, cut to shape using your old calipers as template, tap threads in to it, swap the caliper pins over , then bobs your uncle lol
Same principle applies if wanting to use genuine brembos , but get genuine brembos or 650 Hyosung master cylider as the 125cc resvoir and chinese ones do not have the strength to push big calipers. Safety in brakes fella!
Pipe in the red circle = It goes straight to the road. So it runs along the beam of the right hand side of the frame, then it guides itself down to the road via the clutch casing , near the swingarm pivot area.
So watch for the exhaust pipe doesn’t burn it. use zip ties if you need to.
It’s a pipe that ;
- Overflows fuel to the road if carb is flooding
- Dumps fuel if the bike fell on the road or in a crash.
