♠️ M77
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Have you actually removed the fan , and put it on the battery directly to see if it spins ? It could be just the switch which i gave you a forum link above ^ ?
Fans rarely fail but it happens , its almost always the switch needing a replacement before the fan does.
The clearances look good! , the compression should be good when it warms if it is showing 10kg cm2 cold.
The tensioner, if it makes a noise then yes replace it because it seems like you replaced almost all other components inside the motor.
Do you think the cam shaft bearings & crank bearings are OK during your inspections ?
Hey , it’s okay
Here is 2 links.
1 = FUEL HOSES
How to upgrade Fuel Lines & Filter on Hyosung GT125R GT250R (Carb Hose Diagram)
2. = AIR LINES
How to change Vacuum Lines on Hyosung GT125R GT250R & GT Comet (Air Hose Diagram)
Hope this helps ?
The GV250 & GT125R = Both share the same pin out. Yes the 125cc is very common in EU , the baby version of the 250cc Hyosungs!.
Hope this helps below and good luck cleaning those carbs out.
Needing a little help with my current project (+GT125 CDI PIN OUT)
Hyosung has issues with the supply chain globally affecting certain parts being available to distributors but , good job on replacing the thermostat
Next, you will need a FAN SWITCH , see the topic below:
Get a bottle of MOTUL FACTORY LINE RACING COOLANT , it is my most recommended coolant for any Liquid cooled motor.
Download the service manual on this forum , so it will show you how to deal with the temperature issues and how to test your TEMPERATURE Sensor
So remember, 3 things to check:
- FAN Switch (Link above ^ )
- Temperature SENSOR (Measure values using multimeter to make sure it is within OEM spec on service manual)
- Thermostat (again, get water in a bowl at boiling 80c degrees, and see if it pops open) , then put it back inside the engine & check for leaks.
Last thing to check, make sure the WATER PUMP is OK. If the pump is dead, it won’t be able to move coolant around your cylinders to the radiator to cool it.
Water pump is very hard to get these days , so be ready to repair it if necessary but hopefully there is no issue with it.
Keep us updated!
Hi Maciek. Your REAR CamChain TENSIONER is not the right part. Your Front tensioner is the correct part. It’s 27.1 mm in diameter, from memory. Try a wrecker or new aftermarket part to see if that eases the noise. The manual says to TURN THE MOTOR 10 times, at least, before measuring VALVE CLEARANCES. Pop the right shims in both cylinders and it will sound & run better. I didn’t read all your post – is your rear cam chain ruined for sure? It may not be idk. When you lay your cams on the head, place the cam that’s furthest away from the tensioner, on first. After i lay the 2nd cam down, under the chain, i press my finder in the TENSIONER HOLE to apply the pressure to the cam chain, so i can see how it will look when the tensioner is installed). Then i release the pressure & rotate this cam until its in the right spot. Bike will run with the cams out a bit but it sounds bad & the bike doesn’t like it. I use NGK CR8E spark plugs & testing CR7E from memory.
I noticed that too, but it happens in UK too. Owners mix cylinders (eg. Front engine use 2016 cylinder with updated tensioner and rear cylinder use 2003 cylinder that uses Generation 1 tensioner)
Hello, I’ve recently bought a GT650R and I need a new wiring harness. I’ve spoken to Marcel about it and he said that I have a discontinued ECU. It has a mitsubishi logo on it. If anyone can help me make or find a harness, that would be amazing!
Follow chris’s other thread here, see how he laid out his harness
If i see the harness , i will tell you about it but in the mean time Chris is correct to suggest repairing it will be easier route / quickest but don’t rush anything you have one good shot not to fry that ECU. Everyone is after it and drives its scarcity up even more.
Hyosung moved on to Delphi electronics since 2013-2015 (US/Singapore) , if you repair your harness well , stay on that Japanese mitsubishi ECU instead.
Hi Leo,
Sorry i didn’t see this one.
Yes 1x Gasket (if you need 2 , then add 2 of them)
RegardsIt is discontinued, so it isn’t made anymore , GT Naked cables are in stock but do not fit well because they are too long , you will end up using a lot of spacers under the switch gear to make up for the slack.
Download the 250 EFi service manual onthe forum , then go to where it says error codes = Yours is C18 , it will tell you how to diagnose it the sensor
C18 = Intake air pressure sensor (Engine 2) (Likely the sensor on the throttle body for the rear engine)
No didn’t work
Check the GT650R EFi manuals on the forum, it will show pictures how to do it better than i could explain on text.
Starter motor is held by 2 bolts on its body near the cable. And just carefully pull it out because it has an O-Ring seal near the spinning teeth
Drain oil 1st.
The plug under the seat is a very small 2-pin one.
or Switch Key On/Off 3x quickly and WAIT….
Red light will flash, count the blinks and pauses , it is telling you a code.
Eg…..
10 blinks _pause_ 2 blinks _ pause 1 blink
(Then it repeats the same sequence) ==== This could example mean Injector #1 (Front) is faulty or has issue. with ECU
Sometimes you get
10-2-1
10-5-8Those 2 means Injector Fault and Side Stand Switch fault (2 different sequences = 2 different issues happening) , just an example!
The seat has a BLACK SHROUD with 2 plugs 4-pin and 2 pin
You have connected something to the 2-pin plug what is it ? It should be empty
The black-shroud hiding those 4pin & 2pin plugs is for diagnostics only.
You can remove the carbs and get someone to do an ultrasonic clean. Then slowly put the parts together , at least this will be a good learning curve for you , not to trust those mechanics again.
Here in UK 80% of garages do not want to touch Hyosung bikes (but it uses Japan carbs like Suzuki does) , it does not make sense lol.
I have this feeling it’s a connection or pipe as last time it stopped I had had my hand in there testing the thermostat.
Sounds like that’s the area there that’s suspect , like you said could be connectors causing the ECU to killswitch the bike off.
Hi Marcel,
Sorry for the late reply – it’s been a busy week!
I had a look at the link you sent, but unfortunately, that item doesn’t ship to Ireland from the UK.
Before ordering a similar one that does deliver to Ireland, I got in touch with Hyosung Customer Care. They suggested that using a Top Yoke from a GD250N would be a great way to raise the handlebars, especially since I’m not too confident with drills. It’s around €90, and for a newbie like me, it seems like a solid deal to get proper handlebar risers from Hyosung directly.
What do you think – does that sound like a good idea?
Thanks!
What website is that , as you have to becareful certain websites will take your cash and run.
As for eBay , that’s weird. That’s my own listing, it should say “global shipping” on it ? handled by ebay themselves , if not message me on ebay and i will edit the listing.
Cobra just simply drilled the holes, (same as what Korea does on GT and GTR bikes , as they share the same yoke.
GD-N is probably pre-drilled as they need to use taller bars anyway and rise the rider to an upright position.
Also , just to be extra sure, when the stator cover is removed , get a big 17mm or 19mm socket , and turn the flywheel anti-clockwise, slowly, this will make sure the engine is not jammed (maybe bent valve or bad timings due to cam chain error , tensioner error or valve hitting piston due to wrong timing)
Drain oil (just incase it is hydrolocked with fuel) (Sometimes there is fuel in the oil because the carbs have jammed open and is sending fuel in to pistons even if bike is off.
When the oil is drained, remove the stator cover ==> Look behind and see if there is damage to the flywheel-sprocket.
Also spin the Flywheel-Sprocket , it must spin ONE-WAY , and FREEZE if you spin the other way (it is a One-Way hub) , if it spins both ways or refuses to spin in any direction,m you may have a damaged “starter clutch” which is that one-way hub sitting behind the flywheel.
It is a early 2000s GTR , so it is best to check behind the flywheel.
Also , remove the stater motor , remove the battery.
Connect + terminal to starter motor wire.
Then connect (negative – minus) to starter body , be safe as sparks will come out! –> does it spin healthy ? – This is you checking starter motor is good too.
You may possibly needed to replace the starter-solenoid as your final puzzle . DO this after checking all the above ^^^ first.
Lambda could need checking but if its idling then dying down, its like if i have a carb version, the bike would idle and die suggesting the float bowls of the carb have gone empty , tank tap and vacuum pump have locked (no extra fuel coming out) or floats have jammed.
In the case of EFi, idling then dying , the worst offender may be the trio of pump , injectors and ECU itself. I hope to be wrong as i haven’t gathered info about your situation as of yet.
If it was idling on the drive , can you start it today , go down the street and come back (don’t go to far incase it cuts and you have to push it back)
Would it start right away after cutting out ?
