â™ ï¸ M77
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have you had any chance at all to do a compression test once you finally get the engine revved up to 2k once hot
2k idle is not ideal but if it can stay at 1800 rpm hot all day, it has a fighting chance.
Go on amazon and get AUXILARY tank , fill fuel in that little cup ==?> connect it straight to the carb , this can help determine if the pump and tap were also being too slow to keep up ?
Do the compression test first but make sure to use the “metal rod” , not the flexi-hose as it can give false readings.
Removing the rear pegs does help yes indeed.
Also the swingarm bearings inside have 2 big spacers left & right with a metal-rubber seal closing both ends. It is OK to use the old caps (rubber metal seals) as all you need is a very good high mileage bike greaase (or high temp bike grease works OK too) , they tend to keep some moisture away. Chain will will spin and keep the left side dripping with a bit of grease escaping the chain, so that left side of the swingarm won’t be as dry to be a concern yet.
Use 17mm deep sockets for the pivots as it is a deep hole on each side. Yes one to loosen and one to hold.
As for the shock, the shock stays in the frame, the swing arm is just locked by the “Y” bone linkage that’s all.
If you don’t have a chain fitted yet , you can fit sockets on each side of the Y linkage , but be ready to use a strong O-Spanner (don’t use “12 sided” O spanners as they will round off the nuts!)
Also use 6-sided sockets for everything on the bike , 12-sided sockets have always been bad on bikes as some stubborn bolts get rounded off quickly , but a six-sided spanner/socket makes things easier.
Not possible to buy a new one now. But look for wrecked GT250 and GV250 in your country or ask a few bike breakers in your country for an ECU
Otherwise , slowly convert to a delphi system (ebay is a good place to start) (Means all electrics change to delphi system etc) , this will be a very daunting process if you have never done this conversion before.
So hopefully you will find the 2008 ECU from GV250 or GT250
Don’t touch GV250 Delphi or GV250 Daewoo , they will not work for you. Stick with GV250/GT250 Sentec as that’s the only ECU that works on both models.
Yes done it many times.
1. remove exhaust trust me.
2. Get a Cruiser Floor Lift thing (this life cruiser bikes) , so this lift will sit on your frame bars under the engine and lift the bike.
3. Once lifted, get breaker bars and torque wrenches and service manual because you need the torque numbers for specific bolts when tightening things back
4. Pivot = 17mm both sides.
5. Rear axle = 22mm & 23mm sockets
6. Bottom linkage = Get between 17mm to 27mm sockets because one nut is bigger than the other.
=== Swap swingarm 😉 but i know it sounds simpler than it looks but take your time , the key impotant thing is to get a bike lift to hold the bike in the air safely!!!
This lift also helps do maintenance like fork changes , shock changes , or wheel changes.
GV250 and GT250 of BOTH of them in 2008 year use the same sentec ECU. So look for GV250 2008 model only
2009-2020 will not fit whatsoever. (Daewoo ECU & Delphi)
once I do all that I’ll figure out how to send a picture of it 🙂
If you can’t upload pictures on this forum , just tell me what phone you use and i will try on my end incase i have to fix any bugs! (it probably means i have to redesign the entire site as its long overdue for a nicer look!)
or just go to http://www.IMGUR.com and upload your photos there…..
Then copy the “BB-CODES” from that IMGUR website , our forum will translate “BB-CODES” to full blown image galleries for all to see on this forum.
Just an alternative idea (any photo website that supports BB-CODE sharing will do, if you don’t like IMGUR’s website.)
Test the stator out put on its own and report back , here is a guide below
Also test the regulator
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it says “GT125R†, the results are the same for its Gv125 sister
Test the stator out put on its own and report back , here is a guide below
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it says “GT125R” , the results are the same for its 250cc & 650cc sister.
But alas, you really need a shingden regulator (like what you see at this store) or use the OEM one = Aliexpress/eBay knockoff regulators will mean you will be back here telling us about a fried harness and blown battery , i despise those cheap things.
Battery , get a picture up so we see what battery you got ?
Well done, i take it the battery is toast (Cells can’t hold juice anymore) or the relay is gone? or is the pump “jammed?” ?
Okay since there is no power to the ignition switch
Ask him this:
Can he confirm the regulator “red and green” or “red and black” wire is 12V ?
Can he confirm the “15A” fuse is showing 12V ? There should be power going to the wires attached to the 15A fuses (this is the “normal” fuse)
Other fuses and relays are for things like Regulator , Fuel Pump , Lights , etc… The ignition takes 15A fuse
if not , you may need to further strip the bike down, follow the battery’s red wire specifically , annd see where it stops giving 12V , there could be a break in the harness (kink, burn mark? , shorting? etc)
keep us posted!
Disconnect one until the pump stops working , i can’t see without pictures as Hyosung moves relays around and sometimes don’t label them.
Eg. Disconnect a relay, and your lights dies == Label that one as “Headlights Relay”
Look for fuses , if there is a BOX with tiny fuses inside, the fuel pump one will also be there , if not , you will just see 1 fuse saying 15A for the entire bike but i highly doubt it. Big things like pump , regulators on the newer models are fused since they started using Delphi Electronics.
Hmmm, take a look at eBay AU as its another popular 650 market and also browse eBay EU , if you don’t see them in your app , try a browser and manually type the relevant country such as “ebay.com.au” to force australian listings only.
Interesting, never thought of the Intake Air Pressure sensor to go out , it’s not something that’s a “common fault” , i suppose it just had an internal fault probably or the signal between the connector going to the ECU wasn’t strong or there is a kink in harness leading to it?
Nice work!
It will be in the battery area , so strip main seat off and you will see a rail with multiple relays on it.
On certain models of the GV125-S , Hyosung also puts a seconday fuse called “Fuel Pump Fuse” and is usually 20-30A
So yes you may see either a relay-only or Relay + Pump Fuse (Depends on Hyosung themselves)
Internal fault with the magneto pulse sensor ? (despite good readings) , I had it happen to me 2yrs ago , did everything i could until i replaced the stator. It was charging beautifully on the 3 phase wires however riding it down the street was very knee jerking , then sometimes it refused to start. As soon as i swapped the stator for a new one, all was good.
Clearance check is not a bad shout though , even if it means you get a peace of mind the valves clearances are good until next major service , (if i recall, the manual expects us to “look” every 4k-6k miles and decide if adjustments are needed or not, so probably any extra 30 mins with covers off and feeler gauge just to see.
In your own opinion do you hear anything suspicious happening at the top end ? or just normal valve-chatter (valves are ok and no chains are slapping around etc)
have you checked the fuses yet ? and any thing suspicious under the hood like a burnt plug etc ? It has been a very hot week, so make sure to verify the charging system is good (with real figures please) – Nothing good about OEM regulators but worth checking though incase it fried something else on the bike.
Also check you have 12V at the plug going to the ignition barrel = If zero, check fuse or harness until you see 12v at the ignition barrel plug or report back what you’re doing so far.
Texan in the house! Keep her once the restoration is done , be nice to see some project pictures as you go along 😀
Send me an email, i have a bottom end we are stripping for ebay, the shaft is gpod as gold. Bottom end only because we’re selling the valve-heads (cylinder heads) to another customer.
Least with a bottom end, you have a whole new gearbox and shaft from a 2016 RC that’s done 9000 miles.
Hyosung Korea is not making carby engines anymore , they are focusing on the newer 2020+ GV125-S EFI Bobber cruiser injection models now.
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