♠️ M77
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The throttle bodies have air lines coming from the ISCV unit , it is possible to measure how much air is being drawn on full throttle / half-throttle , or switch of the bike with throttle closed , it is possible to measure if the throttle butterflies are fully shut.
Also if you take off throttle bodies off and take sensors off , then pour a little bit of oil down there, and see if the butterfly leaks out on the other side ? = this isn’t fool proof, so it is just an idea! = I did this on a row of carbs for Kawasaki ZZR , because i had to be sure all butterflies were equally opening and closing so each cylinder gets the same air flow.
Do you have 100w bulbs or incorrect bulbs by any chance?
Also unplug the regulator and see if its the same?
What ECU does it have ? And make sure ecu is unplugged until it is sorted. Incase you have a spike or short somewhere that could fry the ecu. It is very sensetive to any current / voltage hikes
Oh no, 😭
I could supply a spare motor? But have to email me directly as its not on ebay yet.And do you get any errors please uploading images? Anything?
I want to try fix any bugs today
Use imgur website temporarily and copy BB Codes next to each picture
The forum will translate BB codes to pictures here quick
Wish i could see the damage on yours. It has to be possible to save it.
He can’t even tell me what the compression level is in this engine, which has been removed from the motorcycle since May and has been sitting untouched.
Hmmm, i would consider this as a gamble purchase. If you can’t find individual engine parts like cylinder valve head for cheaper, then it is possible you may 50/50 restore this one or just buy to take parts from it and the rest of it is just future spares.
Replace the IAP sensor and check the ISCV unit (idle speed controller valve) , especially stripping the intake system slowly to replace any damaged o-rings (heat vs age) , this may not help with potential air leaks, so it is worth checking.
Hyosung uses one or 2 sensors , so if yours was blanked, don’t panic, it was Hyosung themselves who felt the need that this “particular” bike needs only 1 sensor (just to check air temps in the intake system)
Also , sounds frustrating but check the service manual again to see if you can test other parts with a meter such as coil, caps, and use contact cleaner to clean every socket/plug you can find.
NO LIQUIDS on the ECU = Air Dry only! – If something happens to the ECU, you’re in hell as it’s not made anymore. So absolute care should be emphasized here. Even though it is a DELPHi ECU which can still be found in the 2nd hand market such as eBay USA , get a spare ECU and see if poblems are still the same?
The ECU is the last thing to worry about as DELPHI ECU is a little better than previous generation GTs that had very chaotic DAEWOO ECU’s but it is worth having a spare!
What simon said and try to show us a picture of what is going on, it really helps.
I have the opportunity to purchase the entire engine for parts, but the question arises: since the seller insists that the bearing is damaged, is it worth buying?
The cost of the entire engine is approximately £244.
At that price , if he can be sure other parts are not damaged and the compression was good, then you can rebuild that engine using new bearings in this case or use it to salvage parts to your main one.
I feel like i have to send you some spare engine parts at this time, do you think you have a local source to grab cylinder heads (doesn’t matter condition of valves) because you can re-use your old ones and maybe spare used pistons & spare cylinders , at least this time, you can make a build for one last time that should cross the 125 psi mark (not ideal but it is survivable for a good while , just don’t go racing!)
I am sorry about the stripped spark plugs but i have a SUSPICION that you may have been sold fake NGK’s , oh yes , the most faked plug on the planet , so unless you got it from a direct distributor that NGK Japan knows, then that’s strange! – That has never ever happened on my side, i have probably touched maybe 500+ spark plugs from my bikes and fixing customer bikes and even old cars i owned in the past , that just never happens. I can excuse the plug breaking if it was covered in rust and vehicle was dumped in the river etc.
Too much current from that box will fry everything and it will no longer turn on from a battery again. (Too much amps)
So if the starter won’t spin for the battery on its own, get a new one. And try again.
If that fails , we should assume the starter motor is toast. Then at this point, strip rest of the bike until you find the strongest place you found burn smells.
The bike just cuts out on me while I’m riding it’s like the bike can’t find the fuel like the injectors or the fuel filter is clogged so I need to get a new fuel filter but what do they look like and where can I get one? I need to find one asap
There isn’t a public website that sells those abroad , so I will need pictures of the injectors so i can use the Hyosung part numbers printed on them and I will find them via trade. If you have the fuel pump out, send us pictures of it and I will try to find it through trade.
Also you did not tell us if you checked you ISCV yet from the topic link above ^ ? So i don’t have a proper answer until you’re sure the intake side (air) of things is good.
Email me , as i may know how i can get it through trade supply chain abroad
In the meantime, also check your ISCV unit using this topic below:
it may not be idling issues but that ISCV checkup is also an excuse to check the overall intake system.
Also , post a picture of your spark plugs so we can see if the side threads are burnt/oily etc and the middle of the spark plugs (to tell if air issue or electrical etc)
Check your ignition coils too. It is not uncomon to change coils especially the rear engine coil but worth a check and want to make sure the rains / water did not cause they to start acting funny in the past, if in doubt get new coils.
Keep the NGK caps, that was a good job!
You will likely need longer lines , the higher the bars go up to be fair. I ran in to this with my previous donor GVs , had to manually measure the stock line + extra distance needed , then order specific length brake cable for it.
Bigger issues may also lie with electrics as i know the switch gears are generally short and stop at the front of the fuel tank, so you will need 6 pin or 9 pin female and male connectors , then get some wires in different colours
Make an extension that joins “original switch gear” === extension here === bike harness , this is better than splicing and cutting up the original parts incase you change your mind and revert back to the stock OEM setup
The TDC would be specified in the service manual , but you know by now if the timings were bad, the valves will 100% hit the piston and engine won’t even do 1 single full revulotion at this point, you would see dents in the pistons caused by a valve
If you took the valve heads off , did you notice the valves ? Are they fully sitting inside the head ? If not could we assume maybe “valve seals” need changing or double check the piston rings
They have notches , but Hyosung wants rings to be staggered ie.
====____=====__====
__===Each row is a ring , but the bottom _ dash is a gap, they must be some distance away from each other ,
If you get 10 kg cm2 compression, that’s GOOD! – now test compression again after running on choke for 5 minutes , so we know the compression values when it was hot vs cold to see if it went up or down.
It is part of the internal fuel pump. (Inside the tank)
Not sold on its own because pump + filter are one-unit.
It doesnt need changing unless its so black the gauze cant even suck fuel anymore?
What is the story?
Those are not made anymore but can you show us a picture? I might try to think of a fix.
Click Add Media button as you reply to upload pictures
Yes you can only use a twin plug ecu on a twin harness.
It is a very messy job to mix and match and may fry it altogether
The single plug is just the prototype ecu hyosung used on early batches. So you have a 2017/2018 chassis (no matter if it says 22 plate). ECU supplied on the bike determined its real year.
Twin plug ecu is better. Hyosung isnt making single plugs anymore.
Regards
IAP will look like something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256727468290
It will physically be on the throttle body, and also there will be a TPS (throttle position sensor) on then, so a bunch of wires in your picture seen to burying themselves deep down your intake pipes, it is suggesting there is other sensors you haven’t seen yet but it is a narrow space down there.
It can be easier to carefully remove the throttle bodies but do not forget where each cable goes so you don’t accident put “rear injector” connector to “front injector cable” etc.
Also if you ever remove those bolts (CAREFULLY!) , it is 100% advised to replace the bolts same size with stainless steel and new rubber-orings!
Take the starter motor off , and check if it spins when manually connected to the battery ? (becareful as the stator motor may spark! when clamping its body)
Also sniff around the bike until you find the area strongest with smells , and try to upload a picture of what you see (green add media button on the forum reply box) or use OneDrive/GDrive and get a public share link for photos or use IMGUR website and get BB codes to paste on to this forum
Put a screwdriver pointy part on to the engine where the noise is , then the handle side on your ear , can you hear the sounds changing as you rev ?
If pistons where hit = it would likely be thudding hard and you will feel it when your hand is on the engine.
If you leave the bike on full choke, does it ride even a little bit ?
And does the smoke stay constant on the exhaut, or does it only puff smoke when you rev fast and let go (throttle blips) ?
Hey,
See the “green add media” button as you write replay on here. Click it and click “upload file” , then navigate to where your picture is stored in your device
Get us a picture of your situation so we can see what’s going on.
If you can’t , use OneDrive/GoogleDrive/DropBox –> upload there and get a “public share link” to that image so we can see it.
Regards
