♠️ M77
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Hey welcome to the forum club 🙂
Post some pictures of your ride as some journal topic , we’d like to see how you get on with it considering there is a lesser amount of 650s in the UK than smaller CC Hyosungs actively on the road. So keeping this one on the road is music to us all.
Let us know what you have discovered from it , any history , any changes (like some part that’s been changed from the stock setup etc)
We could end up narrowing down the “to do list ” / “to look out for” list as you wanted to know , and sooner you finish your project the sooner you can go about with it.
If there was any ideas of putting more 650 parts on this shop , let me know and i’ll do my best , it’s not hard for me to query & get stock parts in trade but wherever possible i tend to replace & stock things with better ones . What’s on the shop will also give you an idea what direction I am going for , and what people commonly replace. It may be smaller CC bike parts occupying most of the shop catalogue but principal can be applied to the 650 although they tend to live well untouched as long it’s definitely taken care of & serviced accordingly as per service intervals. Just the smaller CC bikes have a harder life that’s all .
What a nightmare, no wonder you are talking about cliffs. Must have driven you nuts. Well done for sticking with it and not torching the bike. What advice did Marcel give that eventually fixed it?
I sent him a new pickup coil as everything else checked out to be inspec as per service oem limit. Hence we got busy with the meters.
What happens when you unplug the stator and regulator from the bike then add a fuse back on ?
If the bike turns on the dash without the stator or reg connected, you found the issue (although it’s rare in UK , but dead blown regs actually blow fuses if the rider tries to turn the bike on)
However nothing great about Korea’s charging system even 650cc, so hence we change that to slightly better or go all custom (varies on different models and cc’s )
If unplugging the reg and stator made no differece, let us know
Hi Guys, is this on the new 2021 bikes, I hope to god it’s not, as its getting sent straight back to Korea2 or 5 Year warranty (dependent on Sinnis UK and your dealer & if Hyosung still wants to Honor 5yrs , but i think so.) , and i wouldn’t worry too much as the injected engine is entirely different , so any issues your dealer will sort it for you under warranty , just take care of her and she will keep going.
If you need some jets , just email us. or browse my ebay @Evocrest is the username , i have listed various jets there too.
I will try to list more carb parts on here too, the acorn nuts are very hard and expensive things to stock all the time, so i hope you go easy with the next one lol.
If the bike has laser plugs (not the junk IX), ngk ht cap, and stronger coils, using the #5 slot on the needle is OK, as it will help the midrange (#5 is the one towards the pointy end)
90 and 92.5 mains is very plenty for the GV125 Aquila plus its naked, so it gets plenty cooling. Unlike GTR’s that run slightly hotter at the rear engine with less air flow passing them.
Hope you get it sorted , and keep us all posted!
Has to be the GV one. The cruise isn’t a vtwin, so the GV CDis are meant for the twin coil engine you have and its matching harness. There is a risk of damaging parts if we try to cross breed electrics from other specific Hyosung models
Ie. Using a 2017 Dash on a 2007 GT125R always turns to smoke , as i’ve witnessed with my own eyes.
Hey ,
Have you considered that it may be that the spring-loaded valve that’s under the float is defective ? It generally bounces back quickly when pushed by hand.If the spring mechanism is damaged, it will mean the whole fuel valve assembly under the float needs replacing entirely or else it makes for an added stress trying to balance the float heights on the bike.
Email sent, i got your order.
Changing the wheel bearings isn’t too hard as we use bearing pullers. Some people use a flat steel rod and tap them them out but i would becareful as not to damage the hub bearing sits on.
Hey,
It should be 85 FT LBS for rear axle wheel bolt
Front wheel spindle bolt should be a 12mm Allen Key Bit and torque it up to 60 FT LBS (ish)
Then ofcourse tighten the little bolt thats on the right handside of the fork under neath which stops the front wheel spindle from spinning / anti-vibration.
Use Google to convert FT LBS to N.M if you torque wrench uses NM instead of Ft.Lbs
Do you have a youtube account or instagram or tiktok that you can upload a video and share the link here , so we can have a listen.
Or you can try to describe the noise precisely where in the bottom end you hear it ? If it does that cold or not ? or while neutral or riding (under load)
Any history of the engine being opened up for overhaul if its old ?
Mostly likely would be the CDI or Generator unit on the machine fella, from what i can educatively guess.
Hello, at the top of this web site please click “SHOP” for carb parts that you need including bolts.
Cleaning the carb (compressor or ultrasonic is always the first port of call) before we dive deep in to any other weak links on the bike that may cause your situation described.
By any chance you have used E10 fuel ? I would resort to using E5 for the time being.
Can you give us info or pictures of the damage of the rear shock ?
If it is the new Kayaba type (i can’t tell without pictures), it is possible to fix it if the bottom base has bent.
Front Forks = You can use 650cc forks and get hagon front springs , costly though! – However, the 650 is adjustable. Keep in mind some 650 forks of the EFI models post 2008 may also only require black calipers.
Have you also tried a new ignition coil , spark plug and plug cap too.
if the spark is there that means the cdi is sending the signal , if not , the cdi wouldn’t be sensing the engine spinning or feed from the magneto to trigger it to fire the coils.
That’s rare to see that small pin that holds the flywheel rotor snap in half! – wow. I’ve never seen it when i rebuild engines myself too , they are always intact.
Well done on the job for bringing the bike back to life , this is good to see.
I think these pictures will help people know just how much work is involved in stripping an engine down and rebuilding it. I think you were smart for using new gaskets too!
Nice work 🙂
Hey Mark,
I will comment saying this topic is on progress since you gave me an update on messenger.
Regards.
