♠️ M77
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If its pipe B = Its just for overflow to the road 🙂
Hey,were you looking for the fuel line tutorials , i have done them already on the site,
see here below:
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/fuel-lines-hyosung-gt125r-gt250r-carb-hose-diagramCheck my ebay fella, as i do have some shocks and fork covers
but sadly, they aint new, but will have way less pitting than the ones you have.if push comes to shove, you can always send me a sales email and ill quote you the cost of the new shocks for the back and new fork covers. Bare in mind sometimes shocks come in black. Happens with GV650 from factory too. Chrome is a nice touch tbh!
I also recommended the Hyoriders shop website to them for spare parts for Hyosung bikes, as I don’t think they have a main dealer for major Hyosung spares, and Hyosung bikes/parts are very rare in my local area (South East). Will post further updates, it is a shame that I couldn’t find a way to get the bike recovered back to my address, as I would have started work on it already. Hopefully I can get her back and running again.
Thank you sir. Hope they shop with us soon if we can be of any service to them!
And keep us posted on your situation 🙂
I saw this on FB to, you know what i said. How far have you got on ?
Also it could be a couple hundred quid to rebuild a motor tbh (that’s anywhere from £100 to £600) based on labour and parts included. Currently i have 3 engines that i plan to spend some time rebuilding them to be fully running and several customer hyos.
So if a garage can do it, make sure they have experience with hyosungs , not cowboys that will take shortcuts and treat it likes it china.
Only 1 garage out of the UK i fully trust is Startrights Leeds Motorcycles as they are the oldest hyo dealer (if not, one of the oldest surviving lol) , tell them marcel sent you because Marcel said he may take extra time and he said you guys can quickly repair an engine in emergency situation.
That’s only if you call them and work it out. If not, send it to me and i will squeeze my schedule to work on that engine depending how pressed for time you are.
Don’t scrap it please.
Castrol = Change it after 500 miles. I really do hate that brand and with hyosungs Motul Ester or Silkolene Ester is a must and use them 2 forever.
Open the 125 , you will come to realize its the only one that has so many bearings, cams, valves, moving parts inside compared to a primitive 125 such as a CG125 that probs will run castrol oil forever without giving a care in the world 🤐
Drain the oil, open the stator casing gently and take a picture to show us and put it back gently please as the stator gaskets on 125 twins definitely do not take kindly to being pulled!
When fitting the stator back in, use some wet oil to dress the stator gasket wet.
Don’t attempt to remove the gasket from the Casing! – Trust me.
Regulator = It must be changed one way or another with a new stator.
Its better the korean stators and regs take each other out, then use new parts as a new marriage (stator and reg as a new marriage always, lest the old stator attempts to take the new reg down)
——————————————————It’s been rainy and windy like crazy in UK lately, please investigate every inch of your bike harness.
_contact cleaner = Clean every plug with it.
_ACF50 spray can = Spray “a TINY” rain drop inside every single electric plug on the bike.
_Tape or Suzuki Harness Boot (Google this item for a pic, so you know. The go to any local breakers yard. Take harness boots from whatever brand bike they have. Hide your plugs subject to weather attacks.)Go to any bike garage or halfords = get a free battery test as they have special “analyzer” meters that will say on the LCD “change battery, battery cells weak, battery OK, etc…”
Consider a fresh Yuasa battery if its been a long while OR if the old charging system had anything with cooking it up.
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Check your coils – Test their resistance and check ground connections are good
HT Cap – It should still be tight and engine holes are totally covered to avoid water getting in to plugs ….If water gets in to the engine hole, it 100% causes the plugs to break down, and bike starts jolting or surging forward almost unstable , replace the plugs, its hard to save them once they behave like that. Look at the richness or lean colors of them or take pics and show us here..
Keep us updated.
I didn’t check the clutch and clutch basket 1st
I charged the battery and checked if it cranked over. Is it best to remove clutch cover and check in there first? Mainly as i couldn’t see how a clutch fault can cause it to cut out and not start but i can remove and check later this wk.Yeah use the tutorial to make sure the clutch basket and everything is very sound and also check your clutch cable is adjusted correctly.
The “arm” behind the engine where exhaust pipe is , that arm must be against sprocket cover.
Then allow 4mm free play at the handlebar lever when finishing cable adjustments.
Spin the front sprocket by hand fast it should not get stuck , that will assume correctly the gearbox is fully disengaged from the clutch system.
Try get a chain kit installed soon 😉
Show us here the picture of the broken gear shift assembly and i’ll advise properly.
It was probably dropped the bike.
[quote quote=6924] It does have a side kick stand with complete wiring so not bypassed.
It does have a clutch switch and it’s not been bypassed.
Not checked for spark yet.
Sidestand You know what to do here 😉
Clutch switch = good! – I hope it works fine and it isn’t broken. If it is, easy replacement or check wires going to the harness.
Sparks = you will get there 🙂 keep us posted. Just make sure the clutch system inside the motor is good 1st and nothing looks off.
ill ask a few questions but if you say yes to any of them it means you verified each part and the bike should start or ….least see sparks….
Does the wheel spin freely in neutral?
Is the neutral light on?
Is there a clutch switch behind the handlebar ? (It must be there and i wouldn’t bypass it for several reasons)
Is there a switch under the kickstand ? (Bypass it!!!!!!) – Join wires, go crazy with tape or watch road debris kill the wires with rain water and stones.
While cranking, do you see sparks from each plug ? are they blue or yellow?
I am going to assume you followed the tutorial on clutch plates and install and checked everything inside the clutch basket before cranking the bike over.
Looking for a fairing screw set if anybody knows where i can get one from??
You can always send me an email as i live 20mins away to my cnc maker that did all the bolts you see on the shop , so i can make him do hyosung panels set screws in stainless.
I should really make a listing for that , i like that idea!
Keep us posted and best of luck , hope to see some finished pictures of how she finally looks too before and afters!
Oh yes, the fairings cost a lot new , but you can always have some used ones and repaint them 😉
There is a clutch tutorial on the site, so it’s pretty handy if you get stuck overhauling the clutch system!
Hello, the orings are installed by mikuni japan when they make the parts , hyosung just puts the carb together to make twin carbs.
However, the oring isn’t critical. The bike will be okay without it. It does help guarantee extra seal between the Jet Holder and Main Jet. But a tight clean jet won’t leak , just don’t over tighten it as brass is very soft
Regards!
After doing tuned up bike runs fine gunna keep old coils on till my new caps come
The NGK caps came with the factory fitted HT wire so don’t remove it. Deal with removing the black wire from the actual coil instead
as for updated coils, if they spark blue/white , they work as they should. Yellow spark just means the electric system is weak.
Owning various hyos myself i know full well the new shape 125s are quite picky when it comes to weak electrics , very veru moody starters but otherwise if everything is cool , they work fine and just ride away!
Hey,
The bike is VERY lean, almost dangrous to the piston rings (if piston rings start to wane – you compression drops bad and it will never be as fast as it used to be)Heat also makes the valves tighter clearance wise , so ofcourse that will mean you will need to do valve clearances much sooner than later.
Now then, let’s deal with the fuel situation….
– Do this mod below or let your mechanic do it[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
It must be done.The plugs have a sooty black ring, it suggests the carb does get some fuel to idle.
The white center is very white, i mean white! – that means its not getting enough fuel when you’re “riding – whatever mph on the street”.
What jets are in it ? You should have already fitted the jets i sent you 90 and 92.5
or 92.5 x2
or 92.5 and 95 (max)Also if you or anyone has ever touched the carb, please ensure the float height is 7mm (not less , not more)
If the float height is affected in anyway , it will affect “riding, idling, starting” .
Follow above early replies for intake air system as extra air leaks near the airbox or manifolds or manifold orings will overheat the bike a bit and lean out the plugs.
Your own air filter is fine , that’s why i did not mention it. It’s brand new.
See how you get on fella, keep us posted 🙂
Furthermore,
E. Electrical.
Clean the laser plugs hard. = Do A to D first above before going for a test run with clean spark plugs
– Then take them out.Take 6 pictures (threads of plug, and also the middle of plugs) – Then i will assess how your bike is burning fuel. I will know if it looks like either air or electric or fueling is a weak link.
I will also quote a picture for you from the service manual that mentions other reasons for a speed drop. Remember a brand new bike does 82-88 factory , i have various hyosungs so i tend to know how they are!
You got this!
Hey,
It looks like you have a standard exhaust on it too, i will assume the bike is very young,A. is it under 5,000 miles miles ? and do you have any proof history of these 2 critical jobs (as Korean’s mention it on service manual if the bike speed drops)
- Valve clearances done and shims changed ?
- Compression test ?
B. Also since you changed the coils and filter, your speed will drop also again if you;
- Changed the Jets yet ?
- Clean the carb with air compressor (must be done believe me) or ultrasonic bath.
If using a rattle can carb cleaner, you will probably go through 4 small cans.
C. Air System checks (because you changed the filter)
- Spray the carb manifolds to see if revs change (speed drops also if the orings under the manifolds are caked up or too old by years not miles)
- Spray under the air box holes where carbs sit on, if revs change, you have a leak.
D. Fuel System
– If it’s a 66 plate. Korea says change the stock lines and the filter after 4yrs (whatever miles she is on now) – Old rubber can rot inside, old fuel filter can cause weird issues, it’s mentioned in the service manual. – Change lines and use a giant fuel filter that’s trusted , not china things. Lest the carb gets clogged up and your fuel pump won’t push hard if you want to ride faster
– Open the fuel pump, clean it with carb cleaner only .Do not use compressed air, as it has spring loaded mechanism inside.
– Fuel Tap that’s directly under the tank —> It should work as normal. If using a big filter, when you stop going for a long ride, you will ALWAYS see half-full or 3/4 full filter means the tap is working. Emtpy filters after a ride always suggests starvation is likely.
– Use e5 fuel only. E10 will cause a lot of problems even as much as bog downs , eats up manifolds eventually, eats up rubber bits, extra ethanol in the e10 can be corrosive to metal parts etc… it’s just a devils juice. Stick with E5 and use WYNNS XTREME GOLD (this brand only) from halfords , pour all of it in a 3/4 full petrol so that it will soft-clean your whole fuel system (it will try!)Hey,
Please ring startrights Motorcycles Leeds and tell them marcel sent you because they are one of the oldest hyo dealers and sometimes as a trader myself i buy half their stocks for my own business.
If they can’t help , send me an email and i’ll see what i can do , i have other trade contacts to get parts from.
