♠️ M77
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My local man , i will bring the 520 chain set to you, hello Yorkshire! – If the weather isn’t great or im too occupied (mechanic work!) ill still post it to you.
I do hand deliveries when people are in the yorkshire boundaries sometimes, i will update you.
Glad the bike is doing you well 🙂
I make / refurbish cables (please dont throw away your old one, they are handy donors!) , i have an old one that’s like 5000 miles old on a 2016 donor bike, also i can get one via the trade for you, so just send me a PM on my profile or use this /contact/ section here if you want.
So all good on the battery side of things now ?
Also how are the new plugs reading okay ?Mikuni Pilot Jets screw in , as well as main jets , but show us the picture of the carbs next time they are open and at least you will see the sizes for your self in there.
Sadly no and no one is going to genuinely advise putting a 650 inside the 125/250 chassis , it will destroy the frame. We need you alive sir 🙂
1. Ride the bike as it is with the pipes , but make sure the DB Killer is inside the exhaust can and also fit the high flow air filter, just checking also that there is no air leaks around the engine manifolds (spray carb cleaner on them)
Ride for a little bit , check your plugs. Take pics.
Ride again after cleaning the plugs and see the colours again.
Show us we can then access how lean or rich the bike is , sometimes lifting the slide needle one notch away from the carb bowls actually helps the midrage and enriches the bike a little more.
Wish i did a tutorial for it! (like i did for the 125cc here but principle is the same on 650cc)2. That means the starter motor should not be jammed ? – Take it off and see if it whines freely when connected to the batter directly away from the bike.
If the starter motor is OK, then consider having a quick look at the flywheel sprocket (open the casing after draining the oil first) and see if the teeth behind the flywheel have any missing , i really hope not . I also don’t expect the “sprag clutch” that sits between the flywheel and sprocket to have any issues
I mention this because it does happen on rare occassion the starter sprocket behind the flywheel and its mini clutch to jam.
If all looks good, then it means the battery is too weak (cells inside caused voltage to drop fast) or just simply too old or too small (must be size 14BS factory size battery)
Or easy option, replace the solenoid relay , it is usually tht 90% of the time. Common part to replace on any brand big cc bike.
3. Take a picture of the mystery object 😉 and show us
Howdy Ken!,
- What size jets are on the bike currently or are you the only owner ? (untouched original) , but either way advise us as to what size jets are on it mains and pilots
- When you press start, does the bike make any sound/buzzes ?
or do any of the lights on dash or headlight go dimm (even slightest) ? - The horn is activated directly by the switch gear and the switch gear sends the wires to the back of the bike so that it shares the same fuse as other electrics (the main 15A fuse).
You can put a 12v meter there and see if you get any volt readings when you press the beep button on the switch gear ? - You may email me if interested but we do have a carb gasket rebuilt kit on the /shop/ section of the site.
Hello,
Its a nice idea but the 650 will twist the frame even if its reinforced a little, the Hyosung GT125/250 frame is even a little weaker than the original GS500 Suzuki frame, however Korea had no intention of putting the 650 in the frame production wise , so the 650 has its own frame for good reason.
Also they did “try” to put a 600cc (600!) concept engine they made in the GS500 frame, but decided it wasn’t good long term. Hence the GS500 was modified with a slight downgrade to just deal with 125 and 250cc , it’s more than enough for it.
Hey, i have got your private message , so i will see what i can do for you
It just sounds like a bit more TLC is needed being a new bike and a garage didn’t do a lot or took shortcuts , but i will wait for your next reply soon.
Never again lol. Zigger , just got lucky! – Im happy for you. Now get your gal ready for the spring 2022 coming soon 🙂 & happy riding for time being.
Hi all I bought diaphragms from the shop on this site for a gv125 etc etc . My current diaphragms in the bike are flat at bottom where the needle pokes through. And the ones I bought are alittle cupped. Which means they are for 250cc !?. Can i still use them in my 125 ?
Correct, absoulutely fine to use. ❤ Curved is better than flat!
The flat ones are more restrictive, so the ones you get even though meant for 250cc just means the 125 has an easier time lifting them or air flows through them in a less restrictive manner.
Try them out 😉 Let us know if you need further help.
I have not checked valve clearance. I was really hoping to solve this without having to really crack open the block.. I somewhere between novice and amateur.
You can open the valve covers when bike is cold overnight, and see if there is any clearance on each valve head.
It’s like i will spin the crank few times to get to F (front) mark on flywheel then quickly check clearances , repeat again for R (rear mark) on flywheel.
You can still consult the service manual if the clearances are not in spec, it has the explanations on how to set them up right.
Good tip Simon!
Hey,
Good that you changed the ECU, means you have a backup copy as these things are not always easy to get hold off.Have you done any ECU Code Retrival from the service manual (it’s in this forum) , these will display a code on the dash to tell us which part is being funny (since being an efi bike has many sensors on it)
It may seem like nothing but have you also ridden the bike with half a tank full and 2 big bottles of Petrol Cleaner (such as WYNNS EXTREME GOLD PETROL CLEANER) , ride the bike a little bit until the fuel level gets low. It is extreme to use 2 bottles but we want to see what happens when the fuel system cleaner is running through all fuel parts if it helps anything at all ?
Like i said, it may be nothing but taking small steps can *sometimes* help the bike get itself together. And use E5 fuel only where possible!
GT125R = All years
GT125P = Circa 2010 onwards
GT250 Naked Carby = 2005 – 2008
GT250R – 2005 to 2008<hr />
Sorry if you see this reply twice (as i replied elsewhere you posted),
That’s for fuel tanks that with a built in vacuum tap (pictured you posted)
That’s when the later UK GT bikes had black frames and did away with the “external” tap system.
I don’t think there is anything wrong with the external tap system, it does last a far while better than the korean vacuum type. The externail silver frame tap has a hex/square block at the bottom that can be taken off to get rid of any dirt traps, while the filter does the job of filtering particles before it reaches the fuel pump.
The “spigot” (tall things) inside the tank have a little mesh on top for 1998-2004 era 125GT bikes and the external tap likely has one too, 2 spigots = 2 pipes from the tank down to the external tap system.
I may find a diagram if i confused you.
Hope that clears it up!
Sorry if you see this reply twice,
That’s for fuel tanks that with a built in vacuum tap (pictured you posted)
That’s when the later UK GT bikes had black frames and did away with the “external” tap system.
I don’t think there is anything wrong with the external tap system, it does last a far while better than the korean vacuum type. The externail silver frame tap has a hex/square block at the bottom that can be taken off to get rid of any dirt traps, while the filter does the job of filtering particles before it reaches the fuel pump.
The “spigot” (tall things) inside the tank have a little mesh on top for 1998-2004 era 125GT bikes and the external tap likely has one too, 2 spigots = 2 pipes from the tank down to the external tap system.
I may find a diagram if i confused you.
Hope that clears it up!
Hello, I now know what the issue is: the rear manifold has delaminated from the metal base plate and was moving when the engine was revved. I have separated it from the plate and hope that I can rejoin them. I also need to place an order for the screws that hold the needle jet base in place as one sheared in half tonight.
It sucks when that happens, don’t forget to make sure the “orings” are in good spec otherwise we generally replace them anytime the manifolds are off.
Please save that manifold, if there is a hyosung part that is in major scarcity , it would be those rubber inlets and korea stopped making them a long time ago. You don’t want to spend 3 figures asking MotoGB/Sinnis to give you one (real Hyo UK) (not the fake spares uk one , they don’t have it.)
I won’t digress as i will assume you know what you’re doing and have seen loads of youtube videos on restoring classic bike intake inlets or cars that used to run carbs in the ancient days.
Oh yeah, i have manifolds also with base plates disintergrated, blame korea for the poor sealing, i just didnt get time to fix them up yet before i flog em away. I may just keep them as salvage for when my cnc guy eventually makes me half-rubber/half-metal ones , since he already does cnc stuff for hyos on my repquires (ie. rearsets, clip on bars etc, making cables of any on demand)
Hello 🙂
As you have both EFi bikes , DELPHi system comes early for some countries and later for other countries. I don’t know if you have an older DAEWOO ECU or DELPHI ECU.
In all cases, have you been able to download the service manual from this forum ? There should be a GT250 EFi book which includes GV250 EFi section and follow it’s steps to troubleshoot it’s ECU to get an error code.
If you can get error code out of your ECU, let us know what it says ?
I don’t think the bikes are carby as they stopped in 2008 , but if someone has put carbs on a 2013 bike, i don’t blame them it is much less stressful than fixing an EFi bike. Personally i went the carby route with my GV250 EFi.
However, EFI is okay when it’s working good. While you check for error code, can you yourself or a garage do a quick cylinder compression test ? What is the service history like too ?
It’s a lot of questions I know, but no rush, take your time. You will be going through a process of elimination.
Have a multi meter ready also because even if you have new parts, the service manual has instructions to test the parts for correct OHMS (coils, caps, sensors, etc) or VOLTS (sensors, reg/rec, battery etc,)
You got this!
Hey,
I will duplicate my reply on the other topic you just made, sorry if you see the same reply twice!
on facebook there has been a lot of complaints about that site. I myself never used them and i don’t intend to . I may sound biased , i don’t think they can move as fast as i can whatever the item is if was to order from my own b2b trade. Real Hyosung UK that any trader or dealer can use or even “phone” them with a physical UK base is Sinnis & MotoGB
The site , plus .eu , plus wholesale etc, are suspected to be clones of the same man that runs it according to many member reports through social media channels.
I did find it funny the gramatical error to charge someone that much for EMS! – I’d rather much deal with germans sometimes and they use DHL
You will also have to worry about import fees courtesy of HMRC/ParcelForce , i don’t think the site you used pays that. I do have to pay customs , but thats my expense so i don’t charge clients unexpected extras. But i am digressing, I would just be wise if i were you , yes parts do come sometimes , but sometimes it’s a mixup like a client of mine had a GT250S cable instead of a GT125R throttle cable. I had to make him one and send it to him , he is now disputing his case false advertising (and yes , it was not even a genuine cable sent despite them saying its genuine parts only) . Keep an eye on what you do and talk to the seller about your EMS woes , otherwise it’s kind to be refunded if the order hasn’t left the seller’s location (wherever they are located but for sure the product is not dispatched from UK soil!)
Hey,
I will duplicate my reply on the other topic you just made, sorry if you see the same reply twice!
on facebook there has been a lot of complaints about that site. I myself never used them and i don’t intend to . I may sound biased , i don’t think they can move as fast as i can whatever the item is if was to order from my own b2b trade. Real Hyosung UK that any trader or dealer can use or even “phone” them with a physical UK base is Sinnis & MotoGB
The site , plus .eu , plus wholesale etc, are suspected to be clones of the same man that runs it according to many member reports through social media channels.
I did find it funny the gramatical error to charge someone that much for EMS! – I’d rather much deal with germans sometimes and they use DHL
You will also have to worry about import fees courtesy of HMRC/ParcelForce , i don’t think the site you used pays that. I do have to pay customs but thats my expense so i don’t charge clients unexpected extras. But i am digressing, I would just be wise if i were you , yes parts do come sometimes , but sometimes it’s a mixup like a client of mine had a GT250S cable instead of a GT125R throttle cable. I had to make him one and send it to him , he is now disputing his case false advertising (and yes , it was not even a genuine cable sent despite them saying its genuine parts only) . Keep an eye on what you do and talk to the seller about your EMS woes , otherwise it’s kind to be refunded if the order hasn’t left the seller’s location (wherever they are located but for sure the product is not dispatched from UK soil!)
Hey Mike,
Happy holidays!
Sorry I delayed, I didn’t think we would hear back from you so soon since i think the K&N filter was the last thing the bike needed before its road test.
Has it been through its road test yet to see how it behaves or will it just cut out if you put it in first gear ?
If you are adamant these are okay below:
- Clutch Switch was bypassed by previous keeper and disconnecting it cuts the bike off (as a test) then put it back on. or the switch is not cut off but it’s working.
- SideStand has been bypassed and waterproofed well as rusty terminals will make it behave temperamental too. The CDI always “wants” a complete circuit (either from the switch itself or by bridging the wires aka bypass
If the bullet points check out OK above ?
I will ask again, if the bike idles fine- Can it take a short ride down the street without an airbox or will the engine cut off once in first gear ?
- If you fit the airbox and free flow filter back on and take a ride , does it seem better as the speed increases ? Ie. from 5mph to 20mph local street speed (basically putting more load on the bike to see how it behaves ?
Please try these so that i can have a more clear cut answer as in regards to your post just before i responded now. You got this….
What you have been through just now , i have experienced it myself on a donor bike that’s also an 03 and a 66 plate donor bike , but they had different causes. So i want to be sure what i can advise you next … Do the tests and report back if you can, it’s a warm week 🙂
I will watch this topic
