♠️ M77
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Thank you your a star I’ll give it a go tomorrow also the gt125r has 5 gears not 6 is this right?
Correct even 250’s have 5 gears , they don’t need 6 gears for what they are to be fair. Although 6th be a little nice overdrive haha.
It took 6th gear for a Yammy YZFR125 to hit the 80s , hyo does that in 5th.
Korea did not reveal the turns to discourage owners tampering with them , and due to the fact 125cc and 250cc , GV and GT, have slightly different turns from each other based on what model the bike is and the jettings used.
So your profile says GT125R (a carb with a jet pump attached to the rear float bowl), use around 2 and 1 quarter to 3 full turns max. Rear being slightly richer as it’s the hottest cylinder.
1/8 of a turn does make a difference, so i would encourage a carb ultrasonic cleaner and dead-on adjusted clearances & lastly a religously clean intake system that’s also leak-free including how far the airbox swallows the carb, and intake manifold orings changed.
You will find that if any of the above ^ is not done, the mixture messing will be a nightmare to get it spot on.
Sometimes tools to anaylize the heat of the exhaust pipes also helps , even as much as reading the air/fuel ratio that’s coming out of the tail pipe. Clean & new spark plugs will be a good hint after a short run.
Show us the plugs when done. (though , it can be expected to go through 1 or 2 plugs , as per typical “plug chopping” process)
I hope this reply helped.
Sorry I’ve been away at inlaws this weekend, so i stand corrected that you did not fit it yourself the original 428s. As i will quote your exact reply:
the 13 front and 49 rear was on from when i bought it…..theres nothing in the side panniers the chain was a gold one the type with rubber seals…. its had a engine swap done by oiley bikers top speed before was 62mph using gps at aound 1100rpm the bike has done 19.488 km its had new ngk spark plugs new ngk uprated caps new ht leads new CG125 coils carbs are standard i use castrol power one 10w 40 oil plus run orangey brown. v power fuelto be honest with you i dident think it had adjustable valve clearences the bikes speedo has indicated 70 before but in reality using a gps app it was doing 65mphUsing the gearing commander (it’s on google) so you can play with the settings if you like) it’s a decent source as it is on par. I played with various 428 sprocket settings on a GV125, the 13T and 49T defo drops the mph for sure, it’s not factory set up.
I do own aquilas and GTs , i know the speedos are out, so the speeds i mention when selling chain sets are what it says on the dash, i can’t try just one bike , i need several donors with varying engine mileages , some modded bikes, some stock and i have people who are test dummies to help me and i send the kits before i go retail, i can’t take back what i say online, i’ve way too many witnesses now (which is a good thing), 10% has to be removed when GPS is used. No speedo made by hyo i’ve known so far is ever the same as GPS. Even most cars are like this, sometimes 10-15% is removed from any speed to actually slow down people (even though they think they are truly driving 70 in motorways) but no they drive at 80mph on the dash so it’s 72ish on GPS, are they taking a risk with smart-camera motorways ever increasing, yes they are but its what i see everyday.
Don’t worry too much about the chain set for now, we’re going back to the engine internals (cams, clearances, clutch basket, compression, etc) && (plus whatever else is attached to it, be it fueling or electrical things to make it come to life)
If one has a digital hyosung dash, and it says 33, going down the estate, the light poles in the street will have a matrix display saying “Your Speed xxxx” – 33 on dash is always 30 by the matrix display in the street = that’s 10% removed from the dash. 44indicated is 40. I can see why 80 will drop to 70 gps as any speed is always factored in around 10%. Common figure , some dashes are less out (5%) , some will be 15% out.
The revs is the main concern on a small cc bike, we want it screaming less at the “same” speed it did before a change of modification (ie. chain set) , the valves on hyosungs don’t like staying at 13k revs for long. The valves start floating at 12k revs. All GV125 engines peak their power at 10-11.5k revs.
Please take a look at the service manual below which another member has kindly posted on social media, as you’re on it already, if it helps. I know trawling through the forum has all kinds of books, but i’ll organize that much sooner with another site design change.
Link to manual here
https://www.facebook.com/groups/345623961212/permalink/10156911795301213it is specifically for your bike, so it has so much detail. The troubleshooting section at the end will back up the “clearances” being mentioned multiple times (even if engine idles fine), the challenge now is to beat everything the engineers have said in the book. Trust them than any of us here , they made the motors 🙂 . You’re a mechanic yourself fella so the book’s instructions will be familar to you in some pages read, if not, a local garage can do what the book says and don’t pay them until it is so. (Some garages are just cowboys, sorry to say, they really are, so i’d watch them!)
If the manual has something missing, tell me i’ll upload it again directly to this site.
Have a great weekend ❤
PS. I really do need to start making more tutorials of engine jobs unless Korea’s english is perfectly fine , I can try to break things down to layman terms.
Like this tutorial here on clutch ( i do need to update it anyway)
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-hyosung-gv-gt-125-250-clutch-plates-replacementI have tried to advise the customer in a few occassions that it will be easier if the bike had clearances done and a deep clutch inspection. I wanted to know every nook and cranny of the bike including seeing the plugs “with my own eyes” , so i can see any potentioal bottlenecks , and i would have advised some mods to do free.
He has already done 1 carb mod which is altering his slide needle to improve the 4-7k range. (mid range,) that’s well and good. he would pass a stock GV, just a little bit side to side.
He said it’s had an engine swap and mileage is beyond 10k miles. It needs clearances doing. I’ve advised the valves really do matter when it comes to top end performance.
I’ve advised it doesn’t always need to be modifications but it can help sometimes on the “lower end” so it has a bit more oomph to start off before it runs out of puff at the top gear
He has not told me what the maximum speed was in 5th gear and what rev range it was on, this is with a 520.
<hr />
See the screenshot of another customer below ::
This aquila is brand new and he is the only owner and he was my test dummy when helping me choose the correct sprockets during the time i was doing 520 kits for GV125 aquilas. No one was doing 520s for the GV’s years ago after all, the UK isn’t the only country i send chains to. There is many GV owners on here from spain and other eu countries where the 125cc exist, they seem to ride a lot more than we do! I hope they prove me wrong!
Make of this image below of what you will , my other client has not done any mods , he is an elder man with full bike license rides a pan big cc tourer. He kept the Aquila as a winter hack. The only mod so far was the chain from this shop.
is his speedo out? GPS either way is in the 70’s and he is in 4th gear trying to get past a car that was moving too slow on a 70mph road.
This is a dual carriage way, look at the horizon, the road is FLAT (mostly) , there is not much downhill here, if anything, the road inclines up a little bit.
Moving on, i advised that if the clearances get sorted out, she will be happier.
I would not send Roy a 35T sprocket because his engine isnt ready for that, I can go as low as 30T (which 30T is unachievable on a 125cc no matter how tuned, 30T has a theotrical max speed of 100 mph, it just won’t happen)
So i customized his gearing to peak at 90 and while that is well and good, it dropped his revs down to about 1,000 rpm less which is intended, as the aquila should scream less.
If i drop the revs too much, it won’t accelerate as good, i had to make a balance, the UK has hills and what not, i do not know which rides he uses.I would gladly send him a 30T sprocket, he will still moan the bike is not doing 90mph. Will it be the 520’s fault?
No, he hasn’t even maxxed out the chain kit I have sent him yet, which suggests a garage must check his clutch and clearances. He says it’s good. Korea will say the plates should be a certain thickness and a spring should be this way and that way , from the service manual to suggest if the clutch is “good” or “wanning , but rideable” , mind you the engine is 10k+ old. It will not be the same as a bike that’s 1,000 miles run in.
Clearances matter. We could spend £400 trying to go fast with mods, but clearances will draw the motor back if its hot and valves close/open too soon, hence clearances to be done. In the same time, his mechanic will do a COMPRESSION test.
150 psi is awesome (example) , 120 is OK but at the limit. 150 psi with engine that’s got clearances of 0.10 & 0.20 dead on will be faster in general (modded or not)Then henceforward, it’s much easier for the 520 chain set to do justice.
Now then, the GV 520 kits are meant for 2 things (longevity) as i know aquila riders like to go on long stretches and carry things (panniers!) . A skinny 428 will wear out much sooner. I can attest to the fact the hyosung bikes i fix in my own workshop i always change to stronger chains , & 2 clients have had issues that almost caused them an accident. Is it Korea’s fault ? No , they ship with Oring chains standard, but after that cheaper 428 chains are fitted by garages once the bike comes of age.
Next, KRMotors and any owner that’s bought a brand new aquila will quickly realize the top speed is 70 ish screaming at 13k revs. Is that healthy? No.
It’s all well and good to drop teeth on a 428, but you loose either top end or acceleration as dropping teeth is more dramatic than a 520 (520 cog teeth are more spaced out, if you want to be scientic, a 14T 520 will have a circumferance of 10cm and a 428 14T will be 7cm (this is an example). Rotation size and spinning size mass matters if we are to get scientific, not just the “teeth” count. Gear ratio matters in this case.He said he has already put a 49T on the 428 which the aquila uses 46 or 48T factory. I was wondering why it won’t hit 70 in the first place. It’s got a 49T, he needed to get lower, which i did on the 520.
Now henceforward he hasn’t maxed out 5th gear at 13k revs to tell us what speed it was on 520. He already knows the bike screams less.
GV = To scream less, and more durability when carrying panniers or going extended tours (hence “Cruiser”) , it’s never going to be a drag racer. 80 is possible because the engine is “designed to do so”
GTR = uses the same GV engine and its factory “82-88mph” = GT520 kits (more accel in general, just a little bit, no point me focusing on top end as it already does 80+ factory and ofcourse chain longevity over a skinny 428)
GT= Same engine as the GV = 80+, though its naked so it will have some wind drag slighly.
GTR is the fastest of them all , GV was purposefully dropped to 70 by Koreans by means of certain restrictions and weird gearing , so bike is already screaming.
80+ is not impossible , you want less revs = happier valves, you ain’t racing on a drag strip but you want to be able to go 70 in 4th gear and 5th gear now becomes your overdrive.
Whereas on a stock GV you’re already on 5th trying to scream to 70.
I say all this with love please ❤ , but had i known more in depth of the motor , i would have advised a little overhaul job with your mechanics professionally and they will follow the “service” manual. I will then talk to them what the bike needs to meet the client’s desires, i can get super technical with them. Once its in spec, then pimps happen after.
If in any doubt, please ignore this website, research the top end speed , and watch youtube videos of riders attempting the national speed on a “stock” GV and look at their rev counters.
If in any doubt again, please trust the Korean engineers when they mention what to do when bike has speed issues in troubleshooting section of their service manual. Also follow what they say to the T including clearances, carb, fueling, their service manual has a lot of detail and a LOT of checks happen for every part inside the bike including measuring things to see if they are at their limits or not, and beat their limits.
You will be much happier, don’t spend on any more mods, just do what the service manual says every page, she is past 10k after all and so will she show her mood after wards, even if its a little bit better, it’s better than nothing or can leave her alone and enjoy for her what she is & allow the mechanics to sort it themselves , just don’t use cowboy garages or you will waste money again ❤
I notice the gt125s can come with either step type rear shock or threaded type not sure if they are different but anyway is the suspension on these absolutely shocking or is mine just in dying need of a rebuild?
QuoteYou can use the GT650 shock as its more firm and it does raise up the bike a little bit.
The old gen shocks are much better wearing because i like the step_mountain clicking adjustment , than screwing type. Both shocks do need religious greasing to keep rust at bay though and their legs painted. New shape shocks found on newer bikes suffer from the “warp bending” effect on the legs when rider is always on the bike everyday , eventually it sways . However, the leg metal plate that a bolt slots through can be taken off and a fabricator can copy it easily and use much stronger steel.
Various bandit shocks are known to fit the hyos but they are without some modifications in some cases. Sometimes the hyo’s under tray needs cutting/trimming around for clearances etc. I never bothered with it since i am still using an old gen shock 40k miles later, i just put it on the stiffest setting and that also includes carrying luggage or a pillion sometimes.
However it does remind me i should probably spend this winter and see if i can mess about with my donor aquilas as they have double shocks which are old but surprisingly holding up fine!
I’ve copied your topic to the other one for you, so i’ve locked this one 🙂
Hey,
Are the plugs “IX” or “IA (Real LASER)” – I say this because Hyosung 125s don’t enjoy IX plugs for that long. It’s the LASER or stock CR8E are what they like most.Have you had a chance to browse around the shop section as what’s on there is what many of the registered folk on here use , and to the extremes they do eventually see 90 indicated on the dash.
Humbly speaking as a wizard, it is a little overkill to try to mess with the valve heads or boring the cylinders out. However there is no aftermarket oversized pistons for the vtwin , as i don’t think the crank wants to deal with a big bore kit (like you see on the Yammy 125s). It’s actually not a bad engine to be fair as it is, it’s only the weight of the bike that lets it down on the initial take off but it will defo hold down long stretches on the M or A roads better than punny little single cylinder 125s. Believe i’ve pushed the donor 125 all the way up & down the country on the M1 & M62 , i was pretty surprised coming from a guy who only had a ZZR400 that did 120 at best! and ofcourse the GS500 i recently sold.
90 is good for the hyo. However, i do like your bravery to go to the dark side , not many of us actually hone the cylinders or mess with the valve heads.
You may get yourself custom made titanium valve springs for the cams. No aftermarket folk do this for Hyosung 125s, so totally a custom job here.2 pipes (rear and front) joining to 1 pipe to the end can, seems to pull best on 125s with a long exhaust can that has a baffle hole of the size of 10p. I tried a few configurations before. If doing dual exhausts, that will look really good i won’t lie , just be sure the cans are full size with a small baffle hole so it isn’t loosing out too much puff out there. It’s not a 2 stroke , but you’ll be surprised the 4t pulls more with a baffle in than out.
I did make 2 tutorials on the site for carb jetting and the slide mod which you can check out as you browse deeper in the forum
Thank you Marcel. I have ordered parts according to your first recommendations below and will see how this goes before going further
No problem fella.
I’ve considered doing this myself and as I need new sprocks and chain I’ll have to go for it me thinks
Go for it!
Send me an email of your riding style please and what kind of roads you use so i can customize the gearing if need be , otherwise i will send the kit as optimal as i can be for both accel and top end (balanced but better than stock 😉 )Hi Marcel, Thank you for your comprehensive reply. I have posted a photo of the fuel tap that I need as requested. From your suggestions I have a plan and a list of things that I need to check and to buy. I will start with the more essential fuel related parts and then review. I have some questions: 1.The manual says not to touch the mixture CO screw so does this definitely have to be left alone? 2. How do you remove the pilot jet? 3.How many turns is recommended for the pilot screw? Thank you again and I now feel that I have a more methodical approach following your advice
- & 2 = We will get to the mixture screws and adjustments when the bike feels like it needs to or when you replace the mixture screws (with orings)
Korea generally discourages it as they have done it spot on from the factory, some GV Aquilas use the same engine and carbs as the GT , but they tune it different sometimes but not “that much” , as to keep things uniform with 2 cylinders in harmony with each other They also make the rear slightly richer as it’s the hottest (due to less air flow going to it)Either way i will advise accordingly , privately , i’ve known someone to copy my mixtures and didn’t turn out very well on their bikes because i have modified the bike differently to theirs & different parts on different bikes etc . General rule of thumb is that beyond 3 full turns out has no effect on most bikes with a CV carb like yours .
3. A screwdriver that’s flat will slot in the pilot jet. And turn it left gently, it should just unscrew out pretty easy , unless dirty , allow the carb to be soaked in carb cleaner for sometime to agititate the dirt.
You can remove the tap, and soak it in carb cleaner to ensure all debris is gone.
Also you can unscrew the dirt trap that’s under the tap (it’s a cap than needs a socket/spanner to unscrew it off)Then it is pretty much ready to go. You may not need to replace it unless there is a leaking concern with it (ie. orings)
Carb, probably the first part we can address, so here’s some pointers to check for:
- Float height is indeed 7mm when the carb is upside down on the carb , that is the float resting on the fuel valves.
- Lift the float gently, and see if it bounces a little? – If it doesnt, consider the fuel valves to be replaced under it.
- Pilot Jets should come out as they are soft brass and the carb body is just as soft too.
- ultrasonic cleaning really does pay dividents or air compressor session on every hole thats inside the carb.
- This topic is also a good read in regards to jet sizing, ensure the Pilots are both size 15 each. The factory mains are 87.5 front and 90 rear , upgrade size is 90 and 92.5 optimally
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-hyosung-gv-gt-125-250-how-to-swap-carburetor-main-jets/#post-5592 - Check the slides for wear, and check this topic out below to see if the needles are on “middle setting” or “rich setting” – you don’t want it on the LEAN setting
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
it should be noted slide needs from the shop are upgrade ones that allow more fine tuning (5 or 6 grooves) – They always come as a pair for good reason.
https://hyoriders.club/shop/service-maintenance/jet-needle-carb-diaphragm-hyosung/ - lastly when the floats come out, the fuel valve assemly has a mesh under it, it can get clogged with some debris , becareful taking it out as its soft brass
But you will get new ones anyway , should you end up getting yourself a rebuild kit as precautionary. Who knows how old the gaskets are at this rate.
Fuel.
E5 only. Hyosungs don’t really E10 , even modern cars in general due to the fact:
– Extra ethanol doesn’t stay fresh for that long, and can be corrosive towards rubber parts (any thing rubber related including intake manifold pipes) , and can be corrossive towards steel parts (tank etc) , and makes carb cleaning annoying after a while of sitting.
Air Box fitting to avoid leaks
- Make sure carb is empty first
- Put the carbs on to the air box
- tighten the clamps on the airbox hard. but not too much.
Now then,
- Hold the airbox and carb together, and carefully drop the whole thing in to the bike until you feel the manifolds swallow the carbs secure.
- Please… manifolds are very hard to source now, as Korea stopped making them, so try your best not to stress them or cause them to split. It can be a costly thing to get a new one!
- make sure the carb clamps are NOT catching linkages of the throttle of carb
- test the choke is working
- test the throttle cable is moving freely
- check your carb to make sure nothing is catching the metal clamps when the throttle is twisted on and off.
- and ofcourse, secure the fuel line tight , it may get awkward trying to do it with the airbox already there
or Fit the fuel line on to the carb before carb goes on the airbox, then the fuel line other end will just join the rear pump when you are ready.
This is the best way to guarantee there is no air leaks.
Speaking of air leaks, see below
Intake Orings.
I can’t stress it. Be very patient if you see an old bolt thats on the manifold rubbers and measure their length. Run to halfords and replace with Stainless steel with a washer.Now then, make sure the surface of the engine is very clean where manifolds sit on, and do your best NOT to allow dirt to go inside as valves may get scratched up or cylinder walls of pistons when debris is floating around inside. So mask the holes!
Don’t sand anything off, just use a plastic scrapper for stubborn dirt.Make sure the metal surface area of the intake pipe is sanded off (use fine or extra fine sand paper)
Get racing white grease (high temp motorbike grease) such as Putoline i use.
Get new orings below (they come as a pair)
Intake Pipe O-RING (Inlet Boot Seals) x2 – GV125 GT125 RX125 GV250 GT250 Hyosung
Now, everything might be perfect ? But if orings are old or fishy ,it will cause half the issues you have described above too.
Often overlooked, but just as crucial as you sealing the airbox too!
Mixture Screws = This will be address as a last resort when we are sure we have diagnosed every part of the bike first. But please, they are literally the most easily rounded off , ensure the area there is soaked with carb cleaner and flush out the dirt before attempting to turn them.
Mixture screws do have orings too, (for a reason) under the spring so nothing leaks fuel or air otherwise and can make fine tuning annoying, new screws already come with the orings anyway as you saw at the shop.
But make sure the mixture screws HIDE under the black bungs when done or see this product here for clarification
Make sure the screw driver is “exactly” fitting, or it rounds off easy. Could be a day job trying to extract the old screw out!
Have i helped so far ? Let us know how you get on!
Plus, i did not see the picture of your fuel tap, so please upload on this forum if you can – Click the “Add Media” button above reply box you write in.
Hello,
If your LEFT FORK at the bottom has a digital sensor attached to the wheel spindle,
Take it off;- Inspect the wires for water including plug end that connects to the dash harness.
- Add some thick grease on the actual speedo drive unit, the factory grease tends to wash away in rain.
- Test run and see if that helps
- Your dash will have a “digital” LCD display bang in the middle of RPM & MPH counters . The LCD unit counts the fuel level digital
This is for GV’s that are of a later model (which i assume you have)
If the left fork has a MECHANICAL speedo driver which a cable that hooks “directly” under the MPH counter of the dash (not electric)
- Take the cable off and inspect it. The cable is more likely to fail than the actual manual speedo drive unit
- As before with the digital comments above, inspect the mechanical unit and grease it well.
- Your dash will have a “Manual Fuel Level Gauge” for older GV with mechanical speedo drive as a hint.
Lets see if that helps ?
In regards to the TALE TELLE lights above the LCD Screen…]
Full Beam = Powered directly via switch gears
Indicators = Harness & Switch gear signals sent to dash.
Neutral = Your new incoming sensor should bring the green N light back onAlso the dash has its own mini harness trunk that deals with lights too. Have you checked the mini harness ?
It may sound silly to ask, but i hope you have been using E5 fuel havent you?
E10 fuel in this country is doing no one any favours even the most efficient injected cars / bikes do better on E5.Also , if the filter is very clean (zero particles) , the tank isn’t rusty (phewww)
Go to halfords and buy WYNNS GOLD PETROL CLEANER. Pour the whole bottle per 2/4 full tank. Ride until the bike is low.
Let us know if the “soft-clean” did the trick , if not , then i’d advise the carbs to have a good blast from the air compressor everywhere inside it with carb cleaner from WYNNS too. Or your local carb ultrasonic man can do this for you.
Can’t hurt to make sure the carb unit of the bike is totally checked over, cleaned and out of the way.
Then if the bike still misbehaves, we can dive in to other areas since carb is fully rulled out.
Also try what the guy above me has suggested too ^ .
You’re more than welcome. Ride easy this winter and enjoy the bike 🙂
That’s great news.
Can you show us when you get a chance what the center of the spark plugs look like ?
K&N doesn’t exist for the GV125, however, the panel filter & airbox flows enough air to power a 250cc. I wouldn’t worry too much here. The GV250 carby uses the same airbox. GV250 EFi Injected & Carby use the same air filter as the 125GV Carby.
Lets see the analysis of your plugs i’ll determine what’s going on in the piston chambers.
Hey,
Now i understand…. I’ll try to break this down.
TOP BAR FITTING:
1. Remove the clip ons , they are for a GTR ofcourse. Keep them as backup
2. Since the top steering yoke plate is off (aka. Top Tree Clamp)
3. You will see 4 spots which Korea generously put there.
4. Drill through them.
5. You can now fit the bar risers + straight bar + long bolts and nuts x4That’s the steering done.
SWITCH GEARS
The GTR ones are shorter, so caution that.
You may also have to drill the STRAIGHT BAR some holes for the switch gears to fix themselves in to , so they don’t spin. Same spots as the clip on bars. You will see as you disassemble the bike.You may “50/50” be able to get away without messing with the harness or changing switch gears.
CLUTCH , CHOKE, THROTTLE & BRAKE CABLES
If this bike was a GTR, you “must” change the cables above ^ in the bold title for a GT NAKED version because GTR lines are only short enough for the low clipons.
Get a KOREA 7.6inch headlight off a GT650 Carby or GT250 Carby
The classic round shape. (I haven’t got one, it got sold)do NOT get GV125, GT125, GV250 ones. They mount different.
and these 3 bikes use SLIM upright forks too. It’s messy.If you want to use your aftermarket ones, be ready to use spacers.
See below….
Headlight sorted? Get this item below:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255073173921?hash=item3b638bc1a1:g:24MAAOSwZNRhBaNK
Proper Dash Mount…. Get this item below (digital dash only)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255073179908?fits=UKM_Make%3AHyosung%7CUKM_Model%3AGT&hash=item3b638bd904:g:2w0AAOSwqGxhBZr7
Front End Styling, get this item below
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255058268696?fits=UKM_Make%3AHyosung&hash=item3b62a85218:g:EIIAAOSwc01g8dEU
Now you have a proper GT Naked bike that’s OEM looking as Korea intended.
Hope this helps!
The ebay links are from my shop.
Have you looked at this topic below ?
Which shows how to add a nose cone from the GTR to a Naked Bike that doesn’t have 2 factory holes at the head stock (where VIN is engraved)
- & 2 = We will get to the mixture screws and adjustments when the bike feels like it needs to or when you replace the mixture screws (with orings)
