Where are the IAP sensors? – 2016 GT250R
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Bike Model = : 2016 GT250R
I took off the tank and the airbox, arrived at the throttle bodies. I cannot for the life of me figure put where the IAP sensors are. I have code C18. I want to swap the sensors and see if the sensor itself is gone bad or if it’s something else.
If possible, highlight the part in the images I’ve sent, if it’s even visible, I am at a complete loss. First time I’m taking this bike apart by myself.
Thanks.
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IAP will look like something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256727468290
It will physically be on the throttle body,Ā Ā and also there will be a TPS (throttle position sensor) on then, so a bunch of wires in your picture seen to burying themselves deep down your intake pipes, it is suggesting there is other sensors you haven’t seen yet but it is a narrow space down there.
It can be easier to carefully remove the throttle bodies but do not forget where each cable goes so you don’t accident putĀ “rear injector” connector to “front injector cable”Ā etc.
Also if you ever remove those bolts (CAREFULLY!) , it is 100% advised to replace the bolts same size with stainless steel and new rubber-orings!
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I found the IAP sensor for the rear cylinder/ throttle body.
Then I went to look for the front cylinder so I can swap them. Am I crazy or is the front IAP just MISSING, shouldn’t it be there (circled red in the next picture), just below the intake hose as the other one is?
Basically the bike starts on the front cylinder only, with quite a bit of cranking, then takes around 5 mins of idling for the second cylinder to start working. After 10 mins of idling, both cylinders run and bike will rev to redline in neutral. HOWEVER, under load, in all gears, it barely ever goes above 7k rpm, if it does, it’s erratic and sudden, like it gets stuck and suddenly goes up, inconsistently.
Mechanic fully serviced the bike but this error persisted so he told me to research on forums because this bike doesn’t exist anymore where I live.
The code is C18. So that’s why I wanted to swap the IAPs to see if I can reverse the problem, which would indicate one IAP gone bad. Hence I’d just replace. I cannot find the front IAP and I really hope it’s not missing. Should it be where I circled?
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Replace the IAP sensor and check the ISCV unit (idle speed controller valve) , especially stripping the intake system slowly to replace any damaged o-rings (heat vs age) , this may not help with potential air leaks, so it is worth checking.
Hyosung uses one or 2 sensors , so if yours was blanked, don’t panic, it was Hyosung themselves who felt the need that this “particular” bike needs only 1 sensor (just to check air temps in the intake system)
Also , sounds frustrating but check the service manual again to see if you can test other parts with a meter such as coil, caps, and use contact cleaner to clean every socket/plug you can find.
NO LIQUIDS on the ECU = Air Dry only! – If something happens to the ECU, you’re in hell as it’s not made anymore. So absolute care should be emphasized here. Even though it is a DELPHi ECU which can still be found in the 2nd hand market such as eBay USA , get a spare ECU and see if poblems are still the same?
The ECU is the last thing to worry about as DELPHI ECU is a little better than previous generation GTs that had very chaotic DAEWOO ECU’s but it is worth having a spare!
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IAP sensor came in today, before installing, I had disconnected the battery for around 2 days, also charged it. Sprayed contact cleaner on every socket/plug I found. Installed the new IAP, made sure everything is connected. I let the bike idle for a while, around 20-30 minutes. Issue remains, FI still lights up, and code still c18.
Will riding the bike make any difference? The bike will run, but takes quite some cranking to start it up, and eats up the battery, so I may be left stranded. I won’t go far but I do need to go to a gas station to check tyre pressure.
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Sounds like you have regulator issues and stator issues (both have their own independent issues (ie. Reg is probably under/overcharging at low and high revs which affects more sensetive parts like the sensors all over the bike and the ECU or the stator itself has an output that is either too high or too low. So have a look at the topic below and confirm with numbers what state your charging system is ?
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it says Gt125R , the principal is the same for GT250.
If you can verify the charging system or fixed the charging system has gone stable now, then go for a longer ride (but carry a spare battery safely incase you need to swap it if heaven forbid you get stranded)
The general idea is to put the bike under some real world load to assess how its performing etc
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Hi, thanks for helping and sorry it’s been a while. Turns out my stator is good and the regulator rectifier went bad. One issue though, I bought the wrong one, only noticed after it was shipped. Here is the one that was on my bike:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/DbLmytH
Part number GD250 32800HN9121
Here is the one that I bought:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/3kvyJDd
Part number 32800HN9110 / 32800HN9101 / 32800HP9300
I got a dozen other parts and it’s the one thing I get wrong, the most important one.
I don’t know why my GT250R takes the GD250 regulator rectifier but it does. That’s how I made the mistake.
Do I need to get the original one or can I get someone who knows to swap the plugs?
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Did your harness have a BIG or SMALL connector for the StatorĀ (Stator unit) ?Ā or post a picture.
Can you try to upload an image directly on this forum?
If there is an issue with this site , please take a picture and upload it to the POSTIMG.CC website so i can see the errors preventing you using our image uploader.
The reason for asking is to verify if you have a Delphi V1 or V2 harness.Ā Ā So showing us the stator plugs and harness plugs will help me confirm what you have.
You said 2016 GT250R at the start of the post, so you may have 2016-2020 electronics but Hyosung can still use 2014-2015 electronics in other models made in 2016
(eg.Ā 2019 bike at the dealership still has 2014 electronics inside it etc…)
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I checked the guide to upload an image, but I don’t see the add media button. This is what I see:
And this is what I get when opening the insert/edit media button:
See below, I’m not sure if this is what you asked for (I’m still getting used to the terms for bike parts) but this is the connecter/plug that comes from the stator. It’s an older picture I took when taking things apart. You can see the original reg rectifier still on the bike but disconnected from the stator plug.
Thanks.
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You have the Delphi V2 harness , (2016+) you need the OEM regulator that uses part number 32800HN9121 – Which is GD250, GV700
Hyosung used GD & ST regulator because they changed the stator unit completely (it is green stator) , older EFi models had black stators with smaller plugs.
Henceforth your GD regulator did fit. I would get the OEM one as it will probably outlive any china-clone (which don’t exist) , china just makes really knockoff ones for older models , they are quite wild (hit & miss in terms of success)
It is probably why I only do true-mosfet Shingden ones like you saw on the shop, fit once and forget about it for years & years (unless your electrics / stator / battery blow it!)
thank you very much for the “bug” in regards to the add-media button , I will fix it!
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Thanks for confirming. I didnāt get the parts on this site because I saw UK shipping. I used HyosungWholesale. Do you ship internationally? And would you have this specific regulator rectifier 32800HN9121?
Yes totally! – but we never sell OEM regulators (can’t trust them personally) as they have caused issues since 2001.
We do Shingden kits like these:
REAL MOSFET Upgrade Regulator Rectifier (Reg Rec) – GV125-S Bobber (GV125S EFi Aquila)
Just send an email with your address for shipping quotes
PS. Upload an image of your regulator (the GD one that’s fitted to your bike) right here and we can see if the image uploader works. As i spent a few hours fixing bugs and adding some extra programming to force the button to appear.
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That looks interesting but 120 pounds in a bit steep right now. If I get the OEM part, what kind of risks am I getting into? Will it go bad with normal/ regular use?
A little backstory, the bike slept many months in all kinds of weather and it was jump started it with a running car battery, I think that’s what messed up the reg rec, probably.
Btw I still can’t see the upload image option, it’s still the same and I tried with different browsers, on phone and pc. But it’s okay though, maybe when I create a new thread, I’ll get the option.
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OEM part is infamous but it works until it doesn’t , so no way to tell you how long it lasts , some pop within weeks/days of use and some carry on for years of light-usage but the complaints generally outweigh their benefits , ask the Australians in their bike groups , as such a hot climate down there is making sure its the #1 thing they upgrade before tyres!
I fixed the image uploader but , if you reply one more time and you can’t see it, then it is on me to really force it & reset everyone, incase their devices/browsers saved copies of the old Reply Box. Again , sorry about this!
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Iāll send an email for a quote, the reg rec you sent me earlier, it will work fine with my bike right? Just to confirm.
I personally take the extra days to make the connectors and build the mini harness to fit your bike , i can never encourage wire chops to be fairĀ (this bike just went up in smoke now, click here…..)Ā Ā , part of the cost is labour making those harness pig tails for the reg-rec and buying the special big connectors as you found out, they are quite specific size , and i have to be sure the regulator is also good after its stripped from another bike but it’s best to read the whole link i gave you earlier so you can understand what this kit isĀ Ā (what’s inside the box etc) (& extra time needed)
I do the same thing for various models like these down here
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Generator – GV650 GT650 Hyosung {Carby & EFi up to 2013}
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Magneto – Hyosung GV250 GT250 [EFi DELPHi 2011-2015]
And no worries about the uploader, if it works for others itās fine. Iām okay with sending links.
Thank you and sorry again you have been a great help spotting bugs! – Technology is never perfect! – I will keep fighting, less hoops for you the better š
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Hi, it’s been a while since I’ve been able toĀ work again on this bike.
I’ve replaced the regulator rectifier, replaced the tank and fuel pump (old one was leaking due to rust). I did an engine oil change. Battery is new and I have a charger in case it dies or is not used for a while.
First start after a few months, both cylinders start, so that looks fixed, only one was starting before (both exhausts hot at the same rate when starting). Bike cold starts at 2000 rpm and drops down to around 1600 rpm and idles okay. Revs well on neutral with normal throttle response.
I know that I need to get the bike on the road for real world testing. The bike used to struggle revving past 7000 rpm under load. I am eager to test that but there’s two issues. It still has trouble starting. It takes quite some seconds of cranking for it to start, and from what I’ve seen, that eats up and kills the battery, hasn’t killed it so far. I assume because it’s finally charging (14 to under 15 volts on idle) with the new rectifier.
I don’t want to put this bike on the road if it wont start easily. And second issue is I’m still getting code c18. Rear IAP sensor was already replaced with a new one.
So:
1. Hard starts, takes too much cranking, sometimes starts on a few cranks (few seconds) or will crank a lot (which used to kill my battery)
2. Still getting FI light with code C18, IAP sensor was replaced already
I don’t want to get stranded, even close to my house, it’s very heavy for me lol. I want to fix the starting issue before getting it out and test further. I’m slowly learning to work on bikes.
Thanks!
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It would be a good idea to also check for a spare ECU in your area and hold on to it, sometimes the microchip inside the ECU could act funny and not reset properly.
As long as you have used the service manual and a pocket meter to verify readings of the IAP sensor and also check the connection from the PLUG CONNECTOR of harness going all the way back to the ECU block is good for signal consistency (like for example if one wire from the sensor is Orange with Blue Line ==t> follow it to the ECU and probe both ends with a meter to make sure the circuit is good, and there is no kinks or damage on the harness that could twist the little wire)
Simon generally says on the forum to always clean connectors , if the pins are heavily oxidized or too dirty, this can increase OHMS (resistance) which the ECU thinks Sensor is reporting 300 ohms but it is not true, the sensor said 100 ohms when i put it on the table in kitchen , so wiring harness cleanliness helps keep resistance down as it commicates back to the ECU
Don’t even use liquids on the ECU plug , use compressed air and blow it hard on the ECU pins and also ECU plug , wait to dry , sometimes some compressed air cans have liquid gas fumes! – If you use an electric compressor , then its fine as its just blowing air only , if using electric air compressor, be gentle as some electric compressors can blow very hard, we would not want to blow off a fragile ECU pin!
When the weather is warm , go for a ride up and down your street and see how you feel and watch its behaviour too. Dont ride in the rain , until you can be sure your electrics wont get water ingress!
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Hi, I’m getting the following codes:
10 1 3 1
10 1 3 8
10 10 3 7
The problem is hard starts. It takes too many cranks to start up. Eats up the battery. Sometimes it cranks forever, usually on the first/ second try. It will/ may start with few cranks on the third/ fourth try if I’m lucky. When it starts, idles and revs fine, and the battery charges fine.
Can you please tell me what these codes are for? Also how exactly to read fault codes? The service book doesn’t really say.
Thank you so much!
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I assume those codes are flashing sequences of the red Fi light,Ā Ā = They all point to the oxygen sensorsĀ (exhaust lambda sensors )Ā (high Voltage & low voltage errors) , so they may be going haywire tripping up the ECU.Ā You will need to replace them and make sure the ECU plugs and ECU pins are very clean too (no liquids , just compressed air only)
Get YUASA YTX 14BS or VARTA 14BS (german brand) = That’s all I use and ever recommend for EFi machines ,Ā Ā i can’t comment on other cheap brands as i don’t like them and they have always let me down eventually.Ā Ā ThoughĀ any battery will crank a carb motor as it has far less electronics to power up , go figure!
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Thank you I’ll replace the oxygen sensors and make sure the ecu plugs and pins are cleaned with compressed air. To clarify, do the O2 sensors actually affect starting or running only, or both?
Regarding the battery, it’s rather new (not exactly premium) but it charges around 14 – 14.5 volts when running. It also does not drop below 10 volts when cranking, stays around 10 and below 11 during crank. Wouldn’t that be enough to run the bike? Or will a more expensive/ premium battery make it start better?
Spark plugs are new, CR8E ones, I checked the grounds and they were okay, fuel pump primes (is new and oem), injectors were cleaned and they fire properly, fresh fuel in the tank, new fuel line and fuel filter, clean airbox, starter relay is also new (oem).
I checked again earlier and sometimes it cranks repeatedly without starting, sometimes it starts with a single push of the starter button. Then idles and revs fine, I will not ride it with fear of it not starting on me.
Should I replace the spark plug caps/ high tension lead with the uprated ngk ones you guys sell on the site? One of the caps uses a thick copper wire as high tension lead (previous owner), I made sure it wasn’t oxidised. The other spark plug cap looks good and has the oem high tension lead.
Sorry for the essay, been like a year I’m fighting with this bike. I’m getting a new suzuki next time lmao.
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NGK caps is what we all use , we dont have much faith in OEM caps , suzuki gets the same trouble with their caps sometimes, so NGK wins.
Also replace the coils if they haven’t already .Ā Ā Fresh CR8E again as they foul easy.
Stator unit , probably be your last itemĀ Ā (it directly , i mean directly affects starting and general running etc.) – If its haywire at any point, the ECU will shut off or get grumpy to start.Ā Ā Probably flag an error codeĀ “no signal for pick up coil”Ā etc eventually but if the stator is good, leave it alone for now.
The stator has 2 plugs .Ā 1 is for chargingĀ (3 yellow wires) , does not affect starting unless fried (thus frying the battery and regulator etc if its shorting out)
other one is a 2pin plug = this is what the ECU wants from the moment you press start and general running all day. It can’t live without it.Ignition Coils = ECU won’t know if the coil is failing , so it wont warn you ,Ā go and measure the coils for their primary and resistance OHMS as mentioned in service manual and report back.
O2 sensors are needed for ECU timing & fueling.
Your battery should be 12.8V when the key is out of the bikeĀ (turned off) , then a drop of 11v while crank may be tolerated but dropping below 9v will 100% trip the ECU to say “battery voltage too low”
Get another starter motor cableĀ = Yes a starter motor cable for Hyosung specifically,Ā connect it to the battery NEGATIVE and then connect the other part to the frame (unpainted part)Ā Ā = This starter cable is thicker, and can be used as extra ground for the bike.Ā Ā Do not connect it to starter motor!Ā or anything postive.Ā Ā I really hope i made sense!
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Hi, thanks so much for the details. I looked into batteries since you mentioned those two : YUASA YTX 14BS or VARTA 14BS. I noticed they’re 12 volts 12 ah batteries. I look on my bike and I’m running a 12 volt 9 ah battery. So I searched and turns out I’ll have to drive around to look for a 12 v 12 ah bike battery where I live, hopefully the ones you mentioned.
I have two questions:
– Considering I fixed pretty much all issues on the bike besides the oxygen sensors, could that be the cause of intermittent starting issues (cranks endlessly sometimes, starts sometimes)?
– My car has a 12 v 36 ah battery. If I jump start it with that, car NON running of course, is that safe? and if it starts right away, would that prove all I needed was a battery with the proper ah?
Why do hyosungs need 12 ah anyway? I see other bigger bikes, with more cylinder and more tech, needing 10 ah, 8 ah, or even 6 ah batteries.
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Considering I fixed pretty much all issues on the bike besides the oxygen sensors, could that be the cause of intermittent starting issues (cranks endlessly sometimes, starts sometimes)?
By that I mean, if the battery I have, 12v 9ah, be the cause of my starting issues. Not the oxygen sensors, that you answered before :).
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A GV250 can start with a 9BS (factory size) as it is smaller than GT250 battery tray , you can start with 9AH,Ā Ā theĀ GT250R has the luxury to use a much bigger factory size of 14BS since there is more inside the battery, you have a better chance of starting on a 14BS than 9BS ,Ā just simply it has more capacity & CCA.Ā Ā a CBR Honda can run on a 9BS batteryĀ , 9BS is common on many bigger japanese bikes of varying styles and different electronics.
IF you can’t find 14BS ,Ā try 12BS which is a nice middle ground anyway.
I can’t answer the starting questions to be 100% true as I don’t have the bike with me to do a deeper analysis , so i can only suggest likely cuplritsĀ Ā andĀ reply to the error codes given by your ECU.Ā However, if the ECU is saying the Lambda sensors need looking,Ā it is a good idea before they fail mid ride.
If you go that far, you can see if the starter motor is tired (prematurely worn out?) and check your engine flywheel SPRAG CLUTCH , it should not be slipping but it won’t hurt to check. This allows you to also see theĀ SPRAG SPROCKET teeth tooĀ Ā (2 items to look at there)
Car =Ā Turned Off yes,Ā you can jump start the bike. but i would not depend on a car battery for a complete judgement, we might miss something else,Ā we need to know the bike can run on its own battery first, it should not ever require more than double its original size.
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