Where are the IAP sensors? – 2016 GT250R
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Bike Model = : 2016 GT250R
I took off the tank and the airbox, arrived at the throttle bodies. I cannot for the life of me figure put where the IAP sensors are. I have code C18. I want to swap the sensors and see if the sensor itself is gone bad or if it’s something else.
If possible, highlight the part in the images I’ve sent, if it’s even visible, I am at a complete loss. First time I’m taking this bike apart by myself.
Thanks.
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IAP will look like something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256727468290
It will physically be on the throttle body, and also there will be a TPS (throttle position sensor) on then, so a bunch of wires in your picture seen to burying themselves deep down your intake pipes, it is suggesting there is other sensors you haven’t seen yet but it is a narrow space down there.
It can be easier to carefully remove the throttle bodies but do not forget where each cable goes so you don’t accident put “rear injector” connector to “front injector cable” etc.
Also if you ever remove those bolts (CAREFULLY!) , it is 100% advised to replace the bolts same size with stainless steel and new rubber-orings!
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I found the IAP sensor for the rear cylinder/ throttle body.
Then I went to look for the front cylinder so I can swap them. Am I crazy or is the front IAP just MISSING, shouldn’t it be there (circled red in the next picture), just below the intake hose as the other one is?
Basically the bike starts on the front cylinder only, with quite a bit of cranking, then takes around 5 mins of idling for the second cylinder to start working. After 10 mins of idling, both cylinders run and bike will rev to redline in neutral. HOWEVER, under load, in all gears, it barely ever goes above 7k rpm, if it does, it’s erratic and sudden, like it gets stuck and suddenly goes up, inconsistently.
Mechanic fully serviced the bike but this error persisted so he told me to research on forums because this bike doesn’t exist anymore where I live.
The code is C18. So that’s why I wanted to swap the IAPs to see if I can reverse the problem, which would indicate one IAP gone bad. Hence I’d just replace. I cannot find the front IAP and I really hope it’s not missing. Should it be where I circled?
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Replace the IAP sensor and check the ISCV unit (idle speed controller valve) , especially stripping the intake system slowly to replace any damaged o-rings (heat vs age) , this may not help with potential air leaks, so it is worth checking.
Hyosung uses one or 2 sensors , so if yours was blanked, don’t panic, it was Hyosung themselves who felt the need that this “particular” bike needs only 1 sensor (just to check air temps in the intake system)
Also , sounds frustrating but check the service manual again to see if you can test other parts with a meter such as coil, caps, and use contact cleaner to clean every socket/plug you can find.
NO LIQUIDS on the ECU = Air Dry only! – If something happens to the ECU, you’re in hell as it’s not made anymore. So absolute care should be emphasized here. Even though it is a DELPHi ECU which can still be found in the 2nd hand market such as eBay USA , get a spare ECU and see if poblems are still the same?
The ECU is the last thing to worry about as DELPHI ECU is a little better than previous generation GTs that had very chaotic DAEWOO ECU’s but it is worth having a spare!
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IAP sensor came in today, before installing, I had disconnected the battery for around 2 days, also charged it. Sprayed contact cleaner on every socket/plug I found. Installed the new IAP, made sure everything is connected. I let the bike idle for a while, around 20-30 minutes. Issue remains, FI still lights up, and code still c18.
Will riding the bike make any difference? The bike will run, but takes quite some cranking to start it up, and eats up the battery, so I may be left stranded. I won’t go far but I do need to go to a gas station to check tyre pressure.
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Sounds like you have regulator issues and stator issues (both have their own independent issues (ie. Reg is probably under/overcharging at low and high revs which affects more sensetive parts like the sensors all over the bike and the ECU or the stator itself has an output that is either too high or too low. So have a look at the topic below and confirm with numbers what state your charging system is ?
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Ignore that it says Gt125R , the principal is the same for GT250.
If you can verify the charging system or fixed the charging system has gone stable now, then go for a longer ride (but carry a spare battery safely incase you need to swap it if heaven forbid you get stranded)
The general idea is to put the bike under some real world load to assess how its performing etc
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Hi, thanks for helping and sorry it’s been a while. Turns out my stator is good and the regulator rectifier went bad. One issue though, I bought the wrong one, only noticed after it was shipped. Here is the one that was on my bike:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/DbLmytH
Part number GD250 32800HN9121
Here is the one that I bought:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/3kvyJDd
Part number 32800HN9110 / 32800HN9101 / 32800HP9300
I got a dozen other parts and it’s the one thing I get wrong, the most important one.
I don’t know why my GT250R takes the GD250 regulator rectifier but it does. That’s how I made the mistake.
Do I need to get the original one or can I get someone who knows to swap the plugs?
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Did your harness have a BIG or SMALL connector for the Stator (Stator unit) ? or post a picture.
Can you try to upload an image directly on this forum?
If there is an issue with this site , please take a picture and upload it to the POSTIMG.CC website so i can see the errors preventing you using our image uploader.
The reason for asking is to verify if you have a Delphi V1 or V2 harness. So showing us the stator plugs and harness plugs will help me confirm what you have.
You said 2016 GT250R at the start of the post, so you may have 2016-2020 electronics but Hyosung can still use 2014-2015 electronics in other models made in 2016
(eg. 2019 bike at the dealership still has 2014 electronics inside it etc…)
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I checked the guide to upload an image, but I don’t see the add media button. This is what I see:
And this is what I get when opening the insert/edit media button:
See below, I’m not sure if this is what you asked for (I’m still getting used to the terms for bike parts) but this is the connecter/plug that comes from the stator. It’s an older picture I took when taking things apart. You can see the original reg rectifier still on the bike but disconnected from the stator plug.
Thanks.
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You have the Delphi V2 harness , (2016+) you need the OEM regulator that uses part number 32800HN9121 – Which is GD250, GV700
Hyosung used GD & ST regulator because they changed the stator unit completely (it is green stator) , older EFi models had black stators with smaller plugs.
Henceforth your GD regulator did fit. I would get the OEM one as it will probably outlive any china-clone (which don’t exist) , china just makes really knockoff ones for older models , they are quite wild (hit & miss in terms of success)
It is probably why I only do true-mosfet Shingden ones like you saw on the shop, fit once and forget about it for years & years (unless your electrics / stator / battery blow it!)
thank you very much for the “bug” in regards to the add-media button , I will fix it!
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Thanks for confirming. I didn’t get the parts on this site because I saw UK shipping. I used HyosungWholesale. Do you ship internationally? And would you have this specific regulator rectifier 32800HN9121?
Yes totally! – but we never sell OEM regulators (can’t trust them personally) as they have caused issues since 2001.
We do Shingden kits like these:
REAL MOSFET Upgrade Regulator Rectifier (Reg Rec) – GV125-S Bobber (GV125S EFi Aquila)
Just send an email with your address for shipping quotes
PS. Upload an image of your regulator (the GD one that’s fitted to your bike) right here and we can see if the image uploader works. As i spent a few hours fixing bugs and adding some extra programming to force the button to appear.
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That looks interesting but 120 pounds in a bit steep right now. If I get the OEM part, what kind of risks am I getting into? Will it go bad with normal/ regular use?
A little backstory, the bike slept many months in all kinds of weather and it was jump started it with a running car battery, I think that’s what messed up the reg rec, probably.
Btw I still can’t see the upload image option, it’s still the same and I tried with different browsers, on phone and pc. But it’s okay though, maybe when I create a new thread, I’ll get the option.
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OEM part is infamous but it works until it doesn’t , so no way to tell you how long it lasts , some pop within weeks/days of use and some carry on for years of light-usage but the complaints generally outweigh their benefits , ask the Australians in their bike groups , as such a hot climate down there is making sure its the #1 thing they upgrade before tyres!
I fixed the image uploader but , if you reply one more time and you can’t see it, then it is on me to really force it & reset everyone, incase their devices/browsers saved copies of the old Reply Box. Again , sorry about this!
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I’ll send an email for a quote, the reg rec you sent me earlier, it will work fine with my bike right? Just to confirm.
I personally take the extra days to make the connectors and build the mini harness to fit your bike , i can never encourage wire chops to be fair (this bike just went up in smoke now, click here…..) , part of the cost is labour making those harness pig tails for the reg-rec and buying the special big connectors as you found out, they are quite specific size , and i have to be sure the regulator is also good after its stripped from another bike but it’s best to read the whole link i gave you earlier so you can understand what this kit is (what’s inside the box etc) (& extra time needed)
I do the same thing for various models like these down here
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Generator – GV650 GT650 Hyosung {Carby & EFi up to 2013}
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Magneto – Hyosung GV250 GT250 [EFi DELPHi 2011-2015]
And no worries about the uploader, if it works for others it’s fine. I’m okay with sending links.
Thank you and sorry again you have been a great help spotting bugs! – Technology is never perfect! – I will keep fighting, less hoops for you the better 🙂
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