♠️ M77
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Need the full image if possible and which manual it was , not all Hyosungs share the same harness . Even 125’s had harness changes over the years.
It’s hard to order that part these days …. So get 2 long hoses and jubillee clamps on there for each carb – then let those 2 hoses also overflow to the road
Not ideal but that’s what I would do.
1st step, 30mm socket and a big torque wench , then undo the big center nut on top yoke.
Then use allen keys to remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the top yoke plate.
Get a rubber mallet and tap the top yoke upwards until it comes out.
It will come out with both clip ons still attached to it
So make sure to loosing the bolts holding the clip-ons to the fork legs too.
I will address this in your other topic that says “ticking issue” , i have also responded there.
Good to hear the carbs work now
That would be a failing HT Lead CAP (the black thing that connects to spark plugs) NGK is heavily suggested and magnecor HT wires.
Testing failing ignition coils , see below:
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Hell yes! Go get her. For us to buy a new Hyosung in the UK it is $4000 USD! = Most used ones tend to have been abused by its ex-keepers.
As soon as you get her, this is in order:
- new oil (motul 7100 or motul 300v is recommended!)
- replace the clutch plates
- change oil filter
- bleed the brakes (old fluids make poor braking) or replace to new hoses too!
- ditch the old pads and use new sintered brake pads
- check tyres for cracks and replace them
- if it has SHINKO (oem tyres) = Michelins are a MUST!
- Replace the chain and sprockets (X-Ring is good) but please avoid anything made in china!
Put the carb on the table , make sure the floats face the sky.
It should be 7mm resting and about 12-17mm lifted up by your hand (gently)
Resting must be exactly 7mm or about 7.5mm max (6mm isn’t good or neither is 8mm) must be in the 7mm range.
Hate to say it, see the “permanent jet” that’s next to the mains & pilots = That perma-jet is for Starting the bike, use compressed air and carb cleaner until you hear it “HISS” on the other side deep in the carb bowls, this will help clear it up.
Then take both pilot jets in your hand , face the sky , see if light shines through both jets “equally” or clean the pilot jets again.
Let us know if that helps!
Turn the key on and off , quickly , in 3 times or 5 times. Count the blinks from the red FI light,.. this is the ECU telling you a fault code.
Eg…..
10 blinks – pause – 4 blinks – pause – 6 blinks – pause – 9 blinks
This will repeat itself.Code is 10-4-6-9 from the ECU as an example, then we will know what the issue is.
In the meantime, as it has been a year , disconnect every connector on the bike ==> get contact cleaner => clean the plugs so that the ECU signals are stronger or remove resistance issues in the plugs incase one of them is rusty.
Don’t use contact cleaner on the ECU or the ECU plug ==> use dry compressed air to clean that area.
Hopefully the pump should prime as soon as the key turns.
Also, make sure the battery is charged, the ECU will give up quickly if the senses the battery is their under-charged or too old.
Okay,
Try this =- confirm 12v is at the fuse box
- confirm 12v is at the ignition wires (green plug under airbox)
Can you turn the key on , and do you see anything at all on the dashboard not even so much as a light ?
Is the engine still running (ie, the bike still starts when turning the key on ?
last thing , is this a carb model or EFI ?
If it is EFI , what ECU does it have ? (Delphi, Mitsubishi Japan, Daewoo, etc)I would remove the ECU, and use compressed air to clean the pins carefully and every connector on the bike.
You can use “contact cleaner” on all plugs of all sensors, it can help solve resistance issues with the ECU
Also do not use contact cleaner on ECU, as liquids may leak into the ECU, which is a rare part for your 2011 model!
If problems keep happening, try replacing the ECU or maybe go get a replacement harness.
If not, try to find a 2015 harness & 2015 ECU from ebay USA as those bikes are very common in USA , they use DELPHI ECU which is better.
On my other GV in the past , i basically found a harley backrest and i managed to make/fabricate some custom brackets that hook the backrest to the side rails of the rear pillion section of the bike. On the same pilly back rest, it is “possible” to make your custom rack from another bike that’s cheap and use extra brackets and the like to affix it to the sissy bar. It’s a wild idea but i suppose this could be cheaper than going the OEM route
Okay, three things.
The yellow box is going to the ground where the coil is.
What COLOURS are the “harness” wires from the white 2-pin connector #? (the female side) = I will advise what that female connector is for.And here is a recently sold cable for the “Y shape” (“clutch cover, main harness & battery = at once)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255169683992
We sold out on that cable, but if you need it , send us a sales email and I will check my workshop after the 30th , as currently moving places. Or try another ebay seller if in a mega rush
Manuals should be downloadable in the forum’s “manuals” section, otherwise try the backup site “ManualsLib” website.
Cut the yellow box off, that’s very suspicious!
The “Black & White stripe” of your wire from the harness goes to “Battery Terminal Negative”
Then it splits UP to also have an extra wire going down to the CLUTCH COVER (to give ground for your spark plugs and starter motor)Do you get anything from the Fi light ?
Also, do you have this product in your country ? It is VERY VERY recommended…
Have “half-tank” of petrol (E5 is recommended, because E10 isn’t good) and use 1 full bottle of Formula Gold in your tank.
Ride until the bike has 1-bar of fuel left , this will try to clean the fuel pump and the injectors for you.
Sometimes higher revs , can usually mean the fuel system is clogged but let’s try that first…. If it did not do much, we can progress to find out if there is an electrical part that needs attention
Sprocket Nut socket size is 27mm , and i agree that you need the rear brake pressed down hard with chain fitted to bike. Keep in neutral as not to damage gearbox
Torque for is 60-80nm for nut.
Use “PERMANENT/SEMI-PERMANENT” loctite on the thread , that can handle high heat , make sure the shaft thread is clean!
Also make sure shaft does not have damaged thread, because if a nut flies off, the sprocket will grind on the shaft thread , which could be an timely job to split engine and replace shaft again.
Folding washer to nut = I fold twice , and I make sure the washer lips are hugging the nut tight and flat… I do this for every customer bike.
Post up a picture ? I believe Hyosung updated it on various EFi models even the 250cc, I could not find other member-written books to modify them
Welcome to the forum!
Good to see more of Korea coming to the forum! – We have other Korean members here, so spread the word 😉
if you have any pictures of your ride , you can share them here ot start your own project journal.
Appreciate the love & enjoy your stay! ❤
I have the same problem with a 2013 gv650 (aquila) efi with Delphi ecu
We did not get a reply on the OPs topic to give any feedback.
Start your own new topic explaining in more detail what the issues are if possible. No 2 hyosungs are the same (some are abused and some wete just neglected for years = different solutions)
thanks
