Dash not working, not starting gt650r
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Hi guys, new to the forum and seeking help. Ive picked up a 2010 gt650r efi for cheap recently as a project bike. Bike was completely dead when I got it and had a broken headlight. Ive replaced the battery and headlight which obviously needed to be done. So, with the ignition and kill switch turned on the headlight comes on but not the dash. Low and high beam works, brake light works and so do the turn signals. No sound of fuel pump priming or anything. When i Pull the clutch in and hit the starter, the motor cranks but won’t start. I found a blown fuse in one of the 2 little fuse boxes at the back left of the bike but didn’t seem to solve anything. What’s wierd is that the neutral light, turn signal lights and high beam lights work on the dash but nothing on the lcd screen or tach and no background illumination. In the attached picture it shows the 2 blue relays, 2 black fuse boxes, 1 brown thing with a removable black cap ( i think its a resistor or something?) And 2 white plugs with nothing connected to them. Is there something missing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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The big white plug that has “4 pins” – Is the Relay Box, it could be the final puzzle to switching on the bike as it looks like it turns on the pump and the EFI injection system but that’s my suspicion since i couldn’t see the wire colours properly but that 4 pin plug should have a relay on it. The relay will be identical to the other 2 blue ones on your frame.
2 pin white plug can be ignored for now, possibly for dealer switch (can’t see wire colours to confirm but it usually is a dealer plug) as i’ve seen myself other hyosungs have a bigger plug in my workshop lol.
3 pin plug that is orange/red? =with a black cap on it, yes that’s part of the harness (Hyosung just calls it Mystery Diode/Non-user serviceable, it usually hides itself inside the harness, like the other ones near your ignition coils.
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Hi guys, new to the forum and seeking help. Ive picked up a 2010 gt650r efi for cheap recently as a project bike. Bike was completely dead when I got it and had a broken headlight. Ive replaced the battery and headlight which obviously needed to be done. So, with the ignition and kill switch turned on the headlight comes on but not the dash. Low and high beam works, brake light works and so do the turn signals. No sound of fuel pump priming or anything. When i Pull the clutch in and hit the starter, the motor cranks but won’t start. I found a blown fuse in one of the 2 little fuse boxes at the back left of the bike but didn’t seem to solve anything. What’s wierd is that the neutral light, turn signal lights and high beam lights work on the dash but nothing on the lcd screen or tach and no background illumination. In the attached picture it shows the 2 blue relays, 2 black fuse boxes, 1 brown thing with a removable black cap ( i think its a resistor or something?) And 2 white plugs with nothing connected to them. Is there something missing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
hi pal, them plugs look like they need to be connected to a cdi unit, ive just had to do the same on my 2008 gt650r, ive got a brand new cdi unit which i bought wrong that looks like it fits your 2 plug cables
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Hi guys, new to the forum and seeking help. Ive picked up a 2010 gt650r efi for cheap recently as a project bike. Bike was completely dead when I got it and had a broken headlight. Ive replaced the battery and headlight which obviously needed to be done. So, with the ignition and kill switch turned on the headlight comes on but not the dash. Low and high beam works, brake light works and so do the turn signals. No sound of fuel pump priming or anything. When i Pull the clutch in and hit the starter, the motor cranks but won’t start. I found a blown fuse in one of the 2 little fuse boxes at the back left of the bike but didn’t seem to solve anything. What’s wierd is that the neutral light, turn signal lights and high beam lights work on the dash but nothing on the lcd screen or tach and no background illumination. In the attached picture it shows the 2 blue relays, 2 black fuse boxes, 1 brown thing with a removable black cap ( i think its a resistor or something?) And 2 white plugs with nothing connected to them. Is there something missing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
hi pal, them plugs look like they need to be connected to a cdi unit, ive just had to do the same on my 2008 gt650r, ive got a brand new cdi unit which i bought wrong that looks like it fits your 2 plug cables
im not 100% but it might be worth looking into if it can help
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Hi guys, new to the forum and seeking help. Ive picked up a 2010 gt650r efi for cheap recently as a project bike. Bike was completely dead when I got it and had a broken headlight. Ive replaced the battery and headlight which obviously needed to be done. So, with the ignition and kill switch turned on the headlight comes on but not the dash. Low and high beam works, brake light works and so do the turn signals. No sound of fuel pump priming or anything. When i Pull the clutch in and hit the starter, the motor cranks but won’t start. I found a blown fuse in one of the 2 little fuse boxes at the back left of the bike but didn’t seem to solve anything. What’s wierd is that the neutral light, turn signal lights and high beam lights work on the dash but nothing on the lcd screen or tach and no background illumination. In the attached picture it shows the 2 blue relays, 2 black fuse boxes, 1 brown thing with a removable black cap ( i think its a resistor or something?) And 2 white plugs with nothing connected to them. Is there something missing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
hi pal, them plugs look like they need to be connected to a cdi unit, ive just had to do the same on my 2008 gt650r, ive got a brand new cdi unit which i bought wrong that looks like it fits your 2 plug cables
im not 100% but it might be worth looking into if it can help
Those plugs hanging from his bike would be for relays unfortunately, your ECU says “GV650” , he has a GT650R
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Thanks for the input guys. I’ve just resumed work but haven’t made any progress yet. Bike is a complete mess at the moment!
Ive since found a white 2 pin plug with a white/blue wire and a black/yellow wire. Ive done a continuity test and traced it all the way back to the ecu plug. If it traces back to ecu then surely it has some significance right? Ive looked everywhere on the bike but there’s no discernible place for it to plug into?
Its located towards the front, roughly behind the headstem right near 2 more ‘mystery diodes’. The mystery continues…..
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Update: ive sourced a relay that fits the vacant plug at the back. It hasn’t solved anything. Dash still doesn’t come on. All other relays work. Bike is as it was at the beginning of the thread except for looking quite a mess! I find it hard to believe that the entire bike only has 2 fuses!?
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It sounds silly but bare with me real quick. From the Speedo itself
Follow the red wire all the way to the fuse box. It might have a break somewhere?
Also using a meter do you get 12v at these locations
- GREEN IGNITION KEY PLUG
- 2pin FUSE BOX (15A) for bike (2 red wires going to it)
- FUSE BOX (30A) if it is there (pump and efi sensors or otherwise Korea uses a 4pin relay box)
The idea is to see if there is actual power power from battery reaching the harness.
Keep ECU disconnected to avoid accidently frying it
We will get to the 2pin plug you found soon (its not critical just yet)
Could be dash related or speed sensor or one of the ancilaries near the airbox or parking light inside headlight
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Thanks again for taking the time mate. I’ll check those few things tomorrow. I know my broken headlight had a tiny bulb just above the high beam, buggered if I know how to get it out if its blown? Lol also I already have my fears about the ecu. Whether its plugged in or not, doesn’t make any difference to the bikes current state. Would a stuffed ecu cause the dash to not power up and fuel pump not to prime?
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Okay, so, ive got the ol multimeter out again and can confirm that there’s a healthy 12v at the green ignition barrel plug on both wires and on both sides. I can confirm also that there’s 12v at both wires on both fuse boxes. Also got 12v at both red and orange wire on dash plug. All done with key turned on.
Still no response on the dash other than the basic indication lights as before.
Eagerly awaiting your next advice 👍
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Can you quickly record the video so we can see what the dash does as soon as you turn the key on And if possible, connect the rear lights and headlights to see if they also turn on , including turn signals.
Then go to Youtube => Upload video => Set privacy to “UNLISTED” (so its not easily found on youtube) => Copy the Share Link and paste it here.
Or , even use Google Drive, DropBox, Instagram etc, whichever suits you and ill download the video. This is so i can visually see what’s going on.
I can see from your post there is power in the harness but why the “PumP” is still silent and the “dash is off” is a little odd. =
Does it matter if you switch relays around ?
Also , sounds stupid , but be extra sure these are intact and working:
- Neutral Light is on and the bike rolls freely.
- Side Stand switch is cut off and bypassed joined wires up (it is that annoying)
- Clutch Switch on the handlebar
- Corroded contacts on the KillSwitch Unit on the right handle bar
- Kill Switch is on the OFF setting (bike is ready to start)
I know that those ^ being off , can trip the fuel pump it won’t even bother cranking.
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So ive made and uploaded a quick video to YouTube as requested. Its my first time so its a bit rough! Haha above is the link. If that doesn’t work it can be found by searching hyosung gt650r 2010 no dash.
I haven’t had any time to play around with the bike since the last time as ive been flat out with other things.
Looking forward to hearing any further advice! 👍
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[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtmQlokrTWs?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-GB&autohide=2&wmode=transparent%5D So ive made and uploaded a quick video to YouTube as requested. I haven’t had any time to play around with the bike since the last time as ive been flat out with other things. Looking forward to hearing any further advice! 👍Quote
G’day mate. You’ve done well uploading a video – i don’t know how to add a photo.
Im guessing it’s an electrical issue like a short or broken/disconnected wiring.
There’s a translation of the Hyosung Wiring Diagram online that explains their diagram a lot better.
I bookmarked it i think. Auto Electricians are expensive but are a good option if all else fails.
I’d buy a 2nd hand Speedometer, just to test it.
You can buy a 2nd hand one for around AU$100-150. A new one costs about AU$500-600,
My guess is that your speedo is ok though.
As some things like starter motor and lights work but your fuel pump doesn’t it sounds like you have an incomplete circuit.
Marcel and the guys here should be able to help you with testing the wiring.
I’d buy a 2nd hand ECU before a new one for test purposes after electrical checks.
idk about these ECU’s but normally sensors fail well before an ECU but its possible.
Stick with it; the twins are a good fun machine.
I’ve never owned a bike with hazard lights before. Did you wire them like that or is that the switch?
-----LaserBeam---->
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Honestly from that video, i am VERY suspicious that from the “dashboard unit” to the Blue Junction at the harness = The red wire might be broken as that would be the last puzzile to turn the lights on the display RPM counter & LCD Glass so we can see if there is an CHE code being spat out.
The bike cranks when pressing start, so that’s a good sign = Solenoid relay is working, and the red kill switch unit works.
Laser Beam is correct to say try and find a wrecked 650 in your area for a cheap display (preferably with its mini harness attached to it) , just to root out the dash LCD glass being faulty.
Try to conntect the airbox and fuel tank back in, and if you hear the fuel pump prime = That’s good!
Try to also attack my other points in previous reply.
@LASERBEAM = Later models of EFI GT650 have a different harness that has intergrated hazards for blinkers/turn signals and the RH switch was updated to have Hazard Triangle too. -
Thanks again guys for your input. Im trying to track down some spares like another dash and maybe an s&t ecu like what’s in my bike but not too many wreckers around in Adelaide other than MR motorcycle wreckers. I plan on carefully removing the entire main harness and thoroughly checking for breaks and testing on the weekend. Can’t resume work until then as I work/stay in Adelaide during the week and only home on the weekends and live over an hour away! Its blatantly clear that this old girl has been screwed with by ham fisted previous owners but I’ll endeavour to solve what’s wrong. These bikes are pretty much a knock off sv650 and can’t be a bad thing! I’ll keep you posted 👍
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Ask Marcel & the crew again about problem solving the wiring issue.
My guess is your speedo/dash IS working.
Few wrecks here too. You’ll find them in NSW, VIC & QLD. (bikesales&gumtree)
Don’t need a wrecker; just a wrecked or unregistered GT650R of around 2010 (check the year with Marcel- not all dashes work)
I’d also like a Speedo & complete wiring harness, still attached to the speedo, as a backup for when my wires break.
I think the speedo for the 2010 EFI GT650R looks like this:
Genuine EFI speedometer ASSY GT650 GT650R GT650S
Looks like you can buy 2 different part numbered dashes for your bike there.
Theres a 3rd speedo but it’s for the newest models idk if its’ll work-prob not.
Yeah i’ve got an low mile 2008 GT250R that is requiring a fair bit of extra love to undo what the last dudes did.
I’ve had Hondas mostly but i’m enjoying this bike.
I’ve got GT650R wheels & tyres on mine. Doesn’t make it handle better but does put a big smile on my face.
PS. that wiring diagram ebpage i found was rubbish; the guys here are knowledgeable. Good luck.
-----LaserBeam---->
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Thanks again guys for your input. Im trying to track down some spares like another dash and maybe an s&t ecu like what’s in my bike but not too many wreckers around in Adelaide other than MR motorcycle wreckers. I plan on carefully removing the entire main harness and thoroughly checking for breaks and testing on the weekend. Can’t resume work until then as I work/stay in Adelaide during the week and only home on the weekends and live over an hour away! Its blatantly clear that this old girl has been screwed with by ham fisted previous owners but I’ll endeavour to solve what’s wrong. These bikes are pretty much a knock off sv650 and can’t be a bad thing! I’ll keep you posted 👍
Taking the harness out is quite easy with the exception of a couple of connections that are a pain as they are under the rear throttle body.
I’m currently working on a GT650R non runner due to someone chopping out the ECU and did the same to check the rest of the loom.
The wiring diagrams in the manuals are helpful for this, just pick the right one based upon the number of pins on the blue dash connector (8 or 9).
I pinned mine to a board and marked it out (the bundle of wire where the ECU should be is the mess I was given to sort!)
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Thanks again guys for your input. Im trying to track down some spares like another dash and maybe an s&t ecu like what’s in my bike but not too many wreckers around in Adelaide other than MR motorcycle wreckers. I plan on carefully removing the entire main harness and thoroughly checking for breaks and testing on the weekend. Can’t resume work until then as I work/stay in Adelaide during the week and only home on the weekends and live over an hour away! Its blatantly clear that this old girl has been screwed with by ham fisted previous owners but I’ll endeavour to solve what’s wrong. These bikes are pretty much a knock off sv650 and can’t be a bad thing! I’ll keep you posted 👍
Taking the harness out is quite easy with the exception of a couple of connections that are a pain as they are under the rear throttle body. I’m currently working on a GT650R non runner due to someone chopping out the ECU and did the same to check the rest of the loom. The wiring diagrams in the manuals are helpful for this, just pick the right one based upon the number of pins on the blue dash connector (8 or 9). I pinned mine to a board and marked it out (the bundle of wire where the ECU should be is the mess I was given to sort!)
that’s a great Idea there mate! 👍im thinking of doing something very similar for the sake of figuring out the cause of my bikes problems. Just have to be thorough and patient!
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Using a board was how we made wiring harnesses from scratch in my previous job. Makes it a lot easier to work on and test.
I also then created a spreadsheet, listing all the ECU PIN numbers and then where they go and the wire colour, it makes it a bit quicker and easier than having to repeatedly check a wiring diagram. Just tape it to the board for reference. -
I also then created a spreadsheet, listing all the ECU PIN numbers and then where they go and the wire colour, it makes it a bit quicker and easier than having to repeatedly check a wiring diagram. Just tape it to the board for reference.
Your board holding the wiring harness idea is mint, Chris.
Any chance you could upload your wire colours & ECU pin number spreadsheet mate?
I’d owe you a Pint, obviously, but it could help a lot of riders. Cheers.
-----LaserBeam---->
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So ive been back at it with my bike doing continuity and voltage tests and everything seems okay as far as I can tell but still the same issue with the dash. Im fairly certain that the dash is buggered!? The original headlight was smashed so im beginning to think that whatever impacted the headlight was enough to disrupt something internally on the dash as the dash mounts directly to the headlight after all. I have already carefully disassembled the dash to inspect it for damage. Nothing looks amiss or broken but perhaps there’s only so much I can see with the naked eye? Currently trying to track down another dash, ive made a couple of enquiries but waiting to hear back.
On another note, there are a couple of other bikes on the local classifieds going cheap. One of them is a 2010 gt650 comet/naked in running condition. Are the parts on that bike interchangeable with my gt650r? Pretty sure they are but just want to be sure!
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Okay guys, these are some voltage readings exactly as they appeared on my multimeter on the dash plug with ignition on and with plug open ended (not plugged into dash)
Orange 12.14
Red 12.14
Blue/yellow tracer -0.13 (yes, minus)
Light Green 0.00
Yellow 0.12
Black 0.01
Black/white tracer 0.06
Yellow/black tracer 0.00
White/blue tracer 0.12
Dark green 0.07
Green/red tracer 0.12
Brown 0.12
What are your thoughts?
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A 2010 Naked 650 will have the same electric dash (one with LCD glass) , and it will fit your 2010 GT650R
Your readings for the orange and red wire is good! – So it looks like it might be dash being faulty , and did you smell inside the dash for any burn marks or signs of water invasion to it ?
I pray it wasn’t fried due to bad battery and regulator (hence 99% of Hyosung 650 owners replace them with proper Shindgen Regulators like you see on this shop)
Stators = I hope the current one is OK , if not, it will stop any sparks. And if it does work, each single yellow wire must output 80v @5k revs , identically all 3 , as it’s a 3-Phase unit. When it is ice cold overnight , each single yellow wire must be under a single Ohm (Ideally 0.3 – 0.8 ohm max) , if it’s beyond 1.00 ohm , replace it right away.
The pulse trigger (2 pin stator plug) = Should be under 140 ohms ice cold overnight
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Thanks again Marcel for your input. The dash looked squeaky clean inside when I disassembled it with no obvious signs of damage or burns. But like I said before, perhaps there’s something broken that i can’t see with the naked eye? I’ve since bought another dash and it’s on its way, hopefully get it by the weekend. It looks rough but as long as it works thats the main thing. Ive also got a new set of relays coming too just so I can rule it out. My main priority is to get a dash to powers up. If it has CHE on it or whatever then I can go from there at least but I need to see a dash.
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The original headlight was smashed so im beginning to think that whatever impacted the headlight was enough to disrupt something internally on the dash
If the bike hit hard head-on & broke the headlight cover, the speedometer is going to feel the impact.
Your replacement is a good way to test. Posted from the east no worries?
What’s the speedo like inside?
Buttons on mine are too hard to press i want to open it up & see if i can swap them out.
-----LaserBeam---->
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I’ve since bought another dash and it’s on its way. It looks rough but as long as it works
This is a repalcement display board for a Hyosung GT250R. Can get one for a GT650S /GT650R but ONLY CARBY models.
Looks like your option is a pricey new speedo or 2nd-hand, like you bought.
If the display board on the 2-hand speedo WORKS, i’d put it in the bikes ORIGINAL speedo.
https://pixelfed.au/i/web/post/696600763827352379
-----LaserBeam---->
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Hi guys, sorry for the inactivity of late. Been flat out and haven’t had much time to myself. Ive since got the other dash, it powers up finally but its had a rough life. Zeros show on lcd screen as sevens! Its kinda funny but at least it goes to show that the original dash was broken somewhat. Put airbox and tank back on and plugged everything back in etc. Still no fuel pump priming up and no start. Ive taken the tank back off, put 12v to the pump and it works fine. Was squirting fuel and now I know what it sounds like. There’s no CHE or anything on the dash. Interestingly even with ecu un plugged, it doesn’t change the display. Im thinking that the ecu is screwed?im really beginning to loose faith in this thing.
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So this dash you are showing us now is the replacement one ? If so i would return it to the seller and tell them it isn’t working properly.
The “FI” light must come on next to the neutral sensor,
Hold clutch in (sensor trigger) and let go
Press Kill Switch On & Off on the big red button
Put it in gear so the neutral light goes out and hold clutch in ?
Put it in neutral so the N light comes back & double check the side-stand is actively bridged/bypassedCan you let us know if pressing “start” , does anything to dimm the display or so much as hear clicks from the starting-solenoid ball thats next to the battery tray ?
Dont lose faith , it does sound frustrating what you are going through , like you i do also pray we don’t have to replace the harness and matching ECU but…..keep an eye out for local marketplace for a wrecked 650 that has a harness & matching ECU (Some ECU’s require specific harnesses)
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Ive since got the other dash, it powers up finally. Zeros show on LCD screen as sevens! original dash was broken somewhat. Still no fuel pump priming up and no start. There’s no CHE or anything on the dash. Interestingly even with ecu un plugged, it doesn’t change the display. Im thinking that the ecu is screwed?im really beginning to loose faith in this thing.
G’day Julian, hang in there mate. Glad the dash lights up but odd speedo readings; no way the bike has done 729,000km. Swapping or returning the 2ndHand Speedo as Marcel said is a good option if it’s there. Marcel’s idea of a new starter motor SOLENOID is a good one. Often overlooked – won’t let your bike turn over. They affordable & comprise of a positive screw, a negative screw and a connector. Easy.
I don’t like the fuel pump not getting power thing. idk but maybe the ECU has taken a blow. At least you know there’s a wiring or electrical issue now. There’s a guy in SA selling a wiring harness for a 2010 or 2011 model efi GT650R on eBay. He may have the ECU too. Ask the sellers that have your EFI model. Check your SERIAL NUMBERS and year & match the serial. When it’s running you’ll be smiling big time & forget about the work that went in.
-----LaserBeam---->
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Hi guys, thanks again for your input. Just to elaborate a little on the bikes current status. So, the bike isn’t any different in the end other than having a dash that powers up with funny display readings!
With the ignition key turned on and kill switch turned on, the headlight comes on as before. High and low beam work fine and indicators work fine. The dash now comes on but no fuel pump as before and no CHE on dash. Dash just shows as pictured in previous post both with ecu unplugged and plugged in! Pull clutch in, hit starter and motor cranks as before. Ive done all this over and over again with the bike on a paddock stand, with the side stand down, up and switch bypassed. ive also tried all this both with factory relays plugged in and with all new ones plugged in. NOTHING HAS CHANGED!!!
I’m really suspicious of the ecu. Not having any luck finding a 2nd hand s&t/daewoo ecu like the current one and I’ll be f$£#@d if im spending 1200 bucks on a new one! so I’m taking a gamble and ive bought a delphi ecu and complete wiring harness from a wrecker. Both are from the same bike, a 2012 gt650 naked. The same bike that the dash came from as a matter of fact.
Ive decided to do this as every google/ebay/gumtree search ive made looking for parts seems to come up with 2nd hand delphi ecu’s predominantly and haven’t once come across a s&t/daewoo ecu other than brand new ones and others suitable only for gt250, gt250r and gv250’s.
Ive also dropped my original, unresponsive dash into a place called ‘guage works’ to get fixed. They specialise in automotive and motorcycle dashboard repairs so hopefully they can work their magic and I can have a dash that finally works properly and doesn’t read 729429kms!
I’ll keep you guys posted. Thanks again for taking your time to give me some insight and advice.
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I’ve just put another harness and ecu on mine (early EFI) , one thing I found was that the wiring to the dash, headlamp, speed sensor and indicators was slightly different on the new loom but not sure if either my original one or the new one had been messed with.
I had to take the pins out of the block connector and reorder. I would recommend checking the colours etc against the loom you take out before powering up.
Also power up without the ECU on as there’s plenty you can check without it on, save blowing it!
At the request of Laserbeam I’ll be uploading some wiring tips in the near future (once I’ve validated it).
I swear the factory just used what they had to hand and didn’t to a controlled year change for parts.
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I’ve just put another harness and ecu on mine (early EFI) … I would recommend checking the colours etc against the loom you take out before powering up. Also power up without the ECU on, as there’s plenty you can check without it on, save blowing it! I’ll be uploading some wiring tips in the near future.
Good stuff, Chris thanks mate. Don’t stress if it’s too hard bro. I don’t wanna put anyone out.I hope Julians ECU is ok, as they are expensive. A entire used wiring loom is about 89Pounds Sterling or AU$170.The ECU’s cost a lot more.-----LaserBeam---->
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I’ve just put another harness and ecu on mine (early EFI) … I would recommend checking the colours etc against the loom you take out before powering up. Also power up without the ECU on, as there’s plenty you can check without it on, save blowing it! I’ll be uploading some wiring tips in the near future.
Good stuff, Chris thanks mate. Don’t stress if it’s too hard bro. I don’t wanna put anyone out.I hope Julians ECU is ok, as they are expensive. A entire used wiring loom is about 89Pounds Sterling or AU$170.The ECU’s cost a lot more.I managed to get lucky and got an ecu and loom together for £250.
I’ll defo upload the wiring details, should be in the next week.
Julian: if you’ve not already done so you can check the power from the fuel pump relay to the circuit. It’s black with a brown tracer and goes to: fuel pump, injectors and ecu (it’s the only black with brown tracer on the ecu plugs). Check you can continuity at at all points.
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Hi guys, sorry I’ve been quite for the last few weeks. I’ve had alot to deal with in my personal life and have been preoccupied.
On a positive note, ive replaced the main wiring harness, ecu and dash on my bike. Ive managed to source all 3 from an exact same bike as mine, year model and all! The improvements so far its made is that the new dash now works properly and reads nice and clear. The fuel pump is finally priming up but it still won’t start. Dash says CHE. Im thinking it’s ignition related now. Any ideas guys?
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I assume the pump stops if you flick the Stop switch? This would indicate that the switch is ok
CHE is the dash not getting a signal from the ecu. This will occur if you flick the stop switch but otherwise it should just show the speed.
If the stop switch is ok then check the speed sensor too.
Also, I would highly recommend checking over the loom, continuity testing each location. As the loom is used you don’t know its history or if it has any loose connections from being removed.
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I assume the pump stops if you flick the Stop switch? This would indicate that the switch is ok CHE is the dash not getting a signal from the ecu. This will occur if you flick the stop switch but otherwise it should just show the speed. If the stop switch is ok then check the speed sensor too. Also, I would highly recommend checking over the loom, continuity testing each location. As the loom is used you don’t know its history or if it has any loose connections from being removed.
yes the fuel pump primes for a few seconds then stops on its own with the kill switch turned on. The display shows CHE both when the kill switch is on and off. Fuel pump primes now every time the switch is on.
What key components do I need to be focusing on here now? I can do continuity tests and all that until the cows come home but I need specifics as I believe its ignition related now.
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I would check from the dash to the ecu.
there are manuals in this forum that have the diagrams, and I also uploaded a guide into the Tutorials section.from the dash there is a Green with Red tracer wire, which at the connector block changes to blue wire , this then goes to the ecu on pin H2.
make sure that’s all OK.
the other to check is the speed sensor, a 3 pin connector with wire of green, orange and Black with white tracer.
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Hey guys, long time no hear. Apologies for my absence. I’ve had a lot on my plate to deal with since my last post with the usual eb and flow of day to day life as well as having a family member’s health taking a rapid decline and suddenly passing away. It’s been a difficult few weeks as im sure you can all understand. Life has alot of unexpected things that come your way but we all have to deal with it when the time comes.
On a more positive note, I’ve spent some free time in my happy place working on my bike in the garage and I’ve finally got her running! After months of trial and error I’ve made a breakthrough and got my project bike in a state that I can work with. After replacing the broken headlight, replacing all relays, fuses etc I ran some tests and figured out that the dash, ecu and or wiring harness were faulty. So I sourced a replacement harness, ecu and dash from a wrecked bike of the same year and model that was in running condition but all I could get, once I fitted those parts, was the fuel pump priming, engine cranking but with CHE on the dash. I read through and studied the pdf service manual i got a while ago and came across a ‘dealer tool’ to diagnose fault codes. The price of them is silly expensive but I noticed that they look very simple in principle in the manual. They plug into the port near the fuse boxes in the tail of the bike and they’re simply an on/off switch. All they do as it turns out, is toggle between one of two modes in the ecu. Normal mode and diagnostic mode. So, I made my own using a switch, crimps, wire and heat shrink I had in the garage. I didn’t have a matching plug to suit the factory one so I wired in one I had. It worked! It triggered a code to display on the dash which was c12. The manual says its the pick up coil fault. It prompted me to focus on the stator, magneto, pick up coil and reg/rectifier which all tie in together. The stator and reg/rectifier were near new and clearly not the original factory ones. I noticed that they were plugged in so that they were completely isolated from the rest of the bike. There was no way that they were connected to the wiring harness. I corrected it by plugging the pick up coil plug into the matching plug on the wiring harness based on the matching wire colours and hey presto, she finally fired up! The dickhead previous owner who fitted the parts didn’t connect it up properly! 🤦♂️
It’s so good to finally hear her run and she’s got quite a nice rumble to her even with the stock exhaust. She’s the first v-twin I’ve ever had and im growing fond of her! Ive since serviced her with fresh fuel, oil, filter, plugs and coolant. Ive rearranged and tidied up the messy wiring and put her tail and seats back on. She’s got a long way to go but we’re on the right track finally! Its abundantly clear the poor old thing has been screwed with by previous owners but I endeavour to get her back to her former self and have a blast on her eventually.
I’d like to thank Marcel and Chris for their inputs and advice. It may not of yielded the results that I was after but the fact that you guys took the time to reach out and help is greatly appreciated. No one was to know that it all more or less boiled down to a silly error!
I’ll finish up on this post as its now no longer relevant. I’ll likely start another one soon as I move on to different stages in my project. Next stage will be brakes, suspension and headstem servicing me thinks. Cheers.
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Glad to hear the bike is alive! – Sorry for your troubles in the world, i hope there is a little bit of peace knowing you can take a much needed road trip with her and get away from it a little bit , and ofcourse a full service on the bike is always a good idea.
Ride safe!
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‘dealer tool’ to diagnose fault codes. They plug into the port near the fuse boxes in the tail of the bike and they’re simply an on/off switch. All they do as it turns out, is toggle between one of two modes in the ecu. Normal mode and diagnostic mode. So, I made my own. It triggered a code to display on the dash which was c12. The manual says its the pick up coil fault. The stator and reg/rectifier were near new and clearly not the original factory ones. There was no way that they were connected to the wiring harness. I corrected it by plugging the pick up coil plug into the matching plug on the wiring harness based on the matching wire colours and hey presto, she finally fired up!
That’s awesome. I’m really glad your bike is running. I didn’t want you to spend too much cash.
Please post a picture of the dealer tool you made, to toggle the ECU modes. Gonna add one to my tool kit for my next Hysoung, im already looking at 😆
-----LaserBeam---->
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Hi there laser beam, sorry once again mate for my lack appearances lately. I have been meaning to reply with a picture of my home made dealer tool.
As you can see in the picture, it
s pretty basic. Its just an on/off toggle switch with some wires, plug and heat shrink. A simple continuity test shows which is on and off on the switch. I wired in a matching plug in place of the factory one to suit the one used on my dealer tool.When I used it, I plugged it into the wiring harness on my bike with it switched OFF. I turned on the ignition and kill switch so that the fuel pump primed so that the then usual CHE would come up on the dash. I then turned the dealer tool to ON and then the c12 code came up on the dash!
I hope this helps! Cheers.
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Hey guys!
Im new here, but having the exact same problems that Julian had been having. I picked up a 2013 GT650R which supposedly has 1200kms only (cant verify that cause dash isnt working). My symptoms are: LCD screen on dash doesnt work but neutral light, indicators, highbeam light etc do, Headlights dont work (not sure if bulb or electrical issue) and of course bike cranks over but wont start. When i turn the key to the on position and flick the killswitch, I dont hear any noise of a fuel pump priming. The previous owner told me he replaced coil leads, starter motor, spark plugs and fresh fuel in the tank. What should I check next? Stator? My mechanical knowledge isnt the greatest but im here to learn lol. Also, I have 2 plugs that arent plugged into anything. After reading this forum, it looks like the 2 pin is the dealer plug and the 4 pin is missing a relay just like julian was? Weird how we’re both missing the same relay, right?
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Welcome Jonathan, is it possible to start a fresh new topic of your own , so we may be able to individually focus on your bike ? Just incase we found an issue not related to Julians , just re-copy what you said.
My bad. I thought I would save yall the mess of another forum but im a noob when it comes to online forum things lol. I believe this is the link to the one i’ve created? If not, you can click my profile and find it there i believe.
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a picture of my home made dealer tool. Its just an on/off toggle switch with some wires, plug and heat shrink. I turned on the ignition and kill switch so that the fuel pump primed so that the then usual CHE would come up on the dash. I then turned the dealer tool to ON and then the c12 code came up on the dash!
Handy little gadget & will save cash. Thank you mate. I’m stoked your bike is going. Serviced my carburetors & up-jetted them. The jets, floats & float seats were all gross. Bike runs so good, has a working choke, there’s no fuel spraying into the airbox anymore & it sounds so beastie with 95 & 97.5 Main Jets.
I’m not so stoked about discovering fried piston rings. Not sure if i can do the job myself but i’ll ask Marcel & the guys how to. I can’t stop thinking about bashing the seller but his son is huge. NOTHING TO SPEND he kept telling me. I’m mad & sad at the same time. Just started to love this GT250R. Was getting it on it’s side … spending all this time and cash on it … 🙁-----LaserBeam---->
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