♠️ M77
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Hey,
Can you take pictures of your current ECU that is next to the battery so we can see what model the bike is (older ECU won’t store a code)
Also look at the Right Switch Gear == Turn the big red kill switch button towards the FRONT tyre (activated) ^ ^ ^ – does the Fi light come on?
If not, turn the key on and off a few times (3-5 times in quick succession) = does the red FI light come on?
Also if possible , remove the right kill switch unit – open it, look for any rusty contacts inside and the connector plug at the other end joining the main bike harness
The EFi ECU is very reliant on the right switch gear having the big red button (kill switch) working , as it will just kill everything (no pump, no sparks , etc, if it doesn’t sense the right switch gear properly)
We don’t know if the bike has ever seen abuse from its previous owner or adverse weather has allowed water in to the plugs = so inspect the harness for anything suspicious and use “contact” cleaner to clean every single connector you can find on the bike.
It is a tedious task i know but if we can be sure the harness is good , it will save you a long headache further down the road.
I hope the ECU isn’t toast , what happend to the bike previously ?
Try to follow what he says in this video and make sure you have the service manual next to you because just like anyone on the internet, always trust Korea first with their service manual to double confirm things
Here it is and see what happens and update us
If you go to the clutch side cover , there is a “CAP” there to fill oil,
I would recommend going to the “Manuals” section of this website’s forum portal and download the 650cc manuals and get the GV650 one.
It goes in to detail of the ins and outs of your machine, so you have a better idea of what to do in terms of basic maintenance.
It uses 10w40 oil , about 3.2L-3.5L of it. You fill the oil via the clutch side filler cap
I would open the clutch to make sure the whole clutch system is OK including the bearing
Then re-adjust the clutch cable to allow a little bit of freeplay before the cable pulls the clutch
Then check the “shifter assembly” near the foot peg
Put the bike on the “LIFT” or bike stand (whichever suits you) i find that lifts work best for low slung cruisers rather than paddock stands
Spin the rear wheel in neutral and have someone else squeeze the clutch in, and try to ask them to squeeze in (shift up) , let go , squeeze in (shift up again) etc
You will know if it is a gearbox problem at that point
We will know once the ECU arrives but the ECU needs to trigger the red light on the dash and the kill switch is required by the ECU to sense it , before it sends sparks & fuel (See how these parts are all interlinked)
Sure you can get your dash fixed, if its worth a shot.
What he said and make sure to follow the RED wire , it is what actually activates the LCD middle display , and rev counter = check coils , stator and the yellow/black wire (usually) for the dash unit to read RPM signals coming from the aformentioned parts i just mentioned.
That’s just odd , if the ECU was dead the dash would show a steady FI light with the dash saying “CHE” on the LCD glass (or if the user has pressed the kill switch button towards the front tyre)
Red FI light on Delphi ECU’s disappear after the bike runs (provided there is no errors while running)You said 2 plug ecu , so i am assuming it is a Delphi one. Daewoo ECU’s don’t really store information, so procedure might be a little different.
Though , you could try to buy a spare working dash locally where you live , just make sure the donor bike had the same ECU as you did. (Or even buy a spare harness!)
Don’t worry i am already planning a stator upgrade and japan mosfet rectifier upgrade , just send me an email below this site. I found the connectors , so i will probably be the first to do it nicely 😀 , I won’t give up.
Generally the pre-2017 but post-2015 manual is OK – It is still delphi with slight changes to the harness and connectors but the principle for all delphi GV250 is the same until 2017
2018-2020 – GV250 DR is too rare and totally different bike. 2020+ GV250 DRA Japan model , is a totally different model that shares nothing from the past (except cylinder heads thats all!)
Relay yes
Also check the connectors for anything suspicious at the relay zone and the connectors for the lights incase of signs of burns
Check fuse box , must be 15A
Check the right and left handlebar switch gears , (open them) look for bad contacts (you said it was sat for years) , so we’re checking for signs of damaged contacts and also check the connectors for the switches going in to the harness (for rotting pins) and use “Contact Cleaner” on the entire bike to be sure the harness isn’t getting shorted and all signals are passing through. Sometimes it helps to remove the harness and re-wrap it with an extra layer of waterproofing tape as the hyosungs don’t like the rain as much as humans do but they will cope with wet weather though like any, it is just their weakness.
Increase the throttle speed by adjusting the idle as soon as it starts to make it idle around 1500 rpm, then it should settle to 1800 rpm max when its hot. Try that first.
Last thing i wanted to ask before i forgot , when the dash is plugged in. (never mind the ECU) , do all the icons flash below:
- Left & Right Turn Signals
- Hazard switch on right switch
- Neutral Light On
Confirms if the circuit board is at least feeding power to the top icons , and then if the ECU does arrive , the red FI light should come on.
However, even with the OLD ECU, the red “Fi” light should be red as soon as the key turns on, is that true ?
EFi is 110-140 ohms max, so looks like the stator should be OK. The only way that stops working (even though its OHMS are in spec) is if acts haywire (faulty batch) , then replace it if it means the ECU still doesn’t trust it but it may throw an ERROR CODE if it does.
Did you find a replacement dash ? or have you attempted to really trace all the power lines going to the dash and confirm 12v is at the dash connector plug ?
– Red wire
– Orange (i believe) or (grey i believe) = But wire colours change sometimes by KoreaBut take pictures of the connector if in doubt so i confim wire colours.
Also, if the LCD glass is faulty, the RPM needle should still move as soon as you turn the key on (It sweeps to 10k rpm then back down to zero rpm as a self-test) , however there is another topic in this forum that mentions a guy replacing the RPM motor he had to use soldering skills though,
If RPM gauge doesn’t move and LCD glass doesn’t turn on, i would be suspicious if there is even 12v at the dash connector plugs.
Yellow = high beam,
Yellow/Black = rpm counter (i believe)
another yellow (i think!) = fuel tank float level sensor
light green = turn signal
black/white = ground
black (all black) = turn signal
brown = temperature sensor
dark green = speed sensor possibly (speedo drive to count road speed)This is just off my head , i’d have to look again to re-confirm.
What readings did you get on the 2-pin plug (Blue and Green) = This one is key
If all 3 yellow wires are 0.3 of a single ohm (it’s good!) OEM limit is 0.9 of a single ohm. Anything beyond that is asking for a lot of trouble. Healthy is 0.2-0.6 generally for EFI machines as they take more electrics than the carb model does.
I can see that the bike idles at 1000 rpm (tries to) , this is GOOD! – It won’t need the choke!
Just start the bike normally with a few throttle pumps , then nurse the throttle until it settles within 10 seconds from cold .
It takes 10 minutes for the engine to rise its own revs to 1500 rpm. 10 minutes before riding is good as i would not ride it straight away (piston rings need hot oil first and for carbs to settle)
When the bike is hot, increase idle to 17500 rpm – This the sweetest idle spot for any carb hyosung. It should be hovering around 1700-1800 max all day long.
Beyond 1800 rpm is not advised as it will cook piston rings. 250cc EFI machines start at 1800 rpm and the ecu locks it there all day.
If the bike starts at 12-1300 rpm cold, then even better, the choke is just there for really bad weather conditions. I highly doubt it gets that cold in AU than UK!
As for your fairing = It is called “m5 Chimney Nut”
Hey,
Mixture screws should be near the bottom of the carbs , usually hiding under a plug to stop dirt going to it.
Generally 2.5 turns out from fully seated , then use fresh spark plugs. Go for a ride and come back.Use the spark plugs to indicate whether:
- Center cone (white porcelain) is brown = Jet is good, bike is not leaning out on full throttle. And also the slide needles should be factory or 1 step AWAY from the carb base (not going further in to it)
- The middle ring = If its sooty black very dark , indicates its idling a bit rich, this is where you can fine tune mixture a little bit.
The drain “pipe” for draining fuel out of the bowls, look at the float bowl, there should be a line there. There is a youtube video somewhere that shows how to check float levels are good using a “clear hose” method.
The sync of the butterflies , if one pot flows more air than the other, find a carb cleaner => spray some in to the opening, if one side drips than the other one , it usually means that butterfly is a bit more open than the other. I would not be surprised if the rear is a tiny bit more open than the front as the rear engine gets the hottest. (air atmosphere flows less to the back) hence rear also tends to have either equal jet to front or 1 size up max.
Pilot jets don’t need changing.
The whole injection system (Pump + Sparks + Stator = ECU controlled.) (If the stator is toast, the ECU won’t allow sparks to happen)
Fuel Pump draws a LOT of power , so it will have its own 4-pin relay yes. OR 30A fuse (depends on harness part number) = Hyosung did many subtle changes on their EFI machines so there will be a box that says GREEN 30A or simply 4-Pin Relay (20/30A)
Headlights = Right Switch Gear (very early EFI models or carb models only) , Left Switch Gear and 4 Pin Relay
Tail Light = Sometimes depending on the “main” harness , it will share the headlight relay. So if the headlights are on, so should the tail light. I’ve done this a few times on a 2017 machine, as soon as i took off the main headlight relay , the tail light turned off.
High Beam Button (left switch gear) & “yellow Pass Button” on left switch gear = All share the same yellow wire going in to the main harness and the same yellow wire is going to the LCD dash to trigger the blue icon that “H1” bulb is active (high beam)
Meter on “ground” or battery negative and yellow wire ==> Press high beam or Pass Button => 12v should be active on the yellow line at the H1 bulb.
Make sure all bulbs are 55w max. (I’ve seen owners put 100w 24v, and everything just cooked slowly)
Low beam should be always on as soon as the key is turned regardless if the dash is present or not, so this will be a bulb , harness issue or relay. 12v needs to be on the bulb connectors ofcourse. The low beam also serves as “day time running running” , much like morden cars. Older Hyosung carb models didn’t have this feature, we actually could turn the lights ON / OFF via the right switch
EFi = changed now, the right switch doesn’t turn headlights off , it just triggers the “hazard” lights hence the Triangle symbol now.
Brake Lights = They are only triggered by the levers only. (brake pedal switch & hand lever switch)
The knockoff CDI’s will work or they will not , that’s why its such a cheap gamble but one-bad chinese batch will be enough to ruin the harness
Try to use genuine cdi’s – They will says “EDGETEK” Korea and are much better quality and they were designed for the hyosung with extensive R&D testing. The chinese don’t do enough R&D to promise us anything. Fast cash , Short Life = Is how they make their parts tempting.
Genuine 125cc and genuine 250cc = identical. Only 250cc has extra green wire to “SLOW” down sparks for EURO 3 emissions (no performance gains) – All Korea CDI’s are unrestricted.
For GT125R = GT125 , GT250 , GV250 (3 plug) CDIs will work
GV125 CDI = No don’t use it. it has 2 plugs. The GV125 has way less electronics and a much smaller harness too.
That would be the fuel pump, sometimes the “strainer” is too clogged or the pump itself needs replacing (prefer to replace the entire fuel assembly)
Also while at it, pour some injector cleaner in to the tank that can be mixed with fuel and use E5 fuel as Hyosungs don’t do well long term with E10 fuel (I am not sure what E5 means in AU , but here in UK E5 means 5% ethanol mix , premium grade fuel) Even modern cars do well in E5 even if they were designed for E10 from the get go.
You may find that at odd times, the “red FI” light will come up = it means what i described above.
If its a carb model bike = carbs and cracked intake pipes will be your first area of investigation.
Carb or EFi = Do keep in mind for their intake pipes may have “O-Rings” that have gone heat cracked, rotted due to old age since its the O-rings that seal the intake pipes to the engine cylinder heads.
If the Fi light doesn’t blink at all , then i would remove the tank and get access to the harness where it connects to the dash & also the right kill switch block, clean up the pins as much as you can to make a very good connection at the front and even behind the dashboard.
Also the dashboard has a “mini” harness that joins the “main frame” harness , start from the dash going to the harness = the RED wire is what turns on the LCD glass.
Open the dash unit and look for signs of damage.
The RPM tacho (RPM needle) must go UP then down , as soon as you turn the key on ?
Then also go to the ECU, disconnect the plugs carefully (it could be a 2plug ECU or single plug ECU = 650 has had multiple ECU changes over the years by Hyosung until settling down with Delphi ECU) -> The connections to the ECU play a critical role too.
Update us with your progress until then.
Sure, contact me directly below here
