♠️ M77
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Welcome!
Greetings from the north west 😉
Looking forward to see your pics and journal
Sorry ,
I meant the Engine from the GV itself was running wasn’t it ? = leave it in the GT frame.Just focus on getting a CDI unit for the GT bike. GT harness & GT CDi will run a GV engine.
As long as the GV was a carb motor. If the GV was EFI (2008 onwards), then you would need to take the carb flywheel and carb stator in to the GV engine to make it run.
Long short = Leave your setup as it is, just swap the CDI back to a GT one.
Then check for sparks.
A GV harness & GV CDI will be complicated to run on a GT frame. (different electronics including the dash!)
Engine (whichever) requires the GT CDI to run on a GT harness.
The motor is fine, it will be the CDI unit. GV is for GV
Yes totally fine! although it will be a low profile! so side walls appear slimmer , so try to avoid doing knee down this icy season coming up!
Happy days on the MOT!
And when is a project ever finished ? Lol., there is always something to do 😉
Sadly , you will have to get the flywheel off , because the chain may end up hooking on to 8 teeth and 2 are missing! – you will end up stripping the crank teeth as soon as compression hits!
So it is safer to get the rotor off. Same with the clutch side!
To keep cam chains from falling, have a bungee cord pull the chain and hook the other end of bungee to ceiling of your garage
Burning Oil = Piston Rings . Scored Barrels , or Valve SEATS dripping oil in to piston chambers (hence probably sooty plugs) or simply rings on the way out with the barrel.
125 psi = You’re literally at the limit as to what hyosung considers a time to rebuild engine. Generally 150-175 psi is expected.
Picture of your current one ?
And have you tried ebay EU ?
Hey & welcome!
Honestly , the sky is the limit but off my brain , this what i could say in my opinion (all are important), and whatever else not mentioned is considered “upgrades” to your desires.
Valve Clearances
Piston De-carbon
Stator Unit (if not in OEM spec)
Regulator (first electric object) (don’t cheap out on aliexpress trash)Tyres = OEM ones are suicide bricks in the rain
Brake Lines = Goodridge Stainless
Brake Fluid
Brake Pads = EBC Sintered Metal
Headlight Bulbs (old ones go yellow and get less bright) = OSRAM NightBreakers are great halogens (We’re not allowed HID’s in UK or LED bulbs)
HID’s too fussy of a job. LED’s make me want to throw spanner at the right (too bright & glaring but does not travel far enough) Halogen wins for now. Unless Hyosung makes a headlight out of LED’s & road legal like Audi R8
Carb Overhaul = (whatever is in it , ie fresh jets , fresh slides (diaphragms) , good clean up
Manifold Intake Pipe Rubber O-Rings
Air Filter
Spark Plugs = Stay stock CR8E or LASER ones. IX-Iridium are rubbish.
NGK Spark Plug caps = too important as OEM caps crack a lot & leak sparks out!
Motul 7100 or 300V oil (or Silkolene Pro 4 Oil) = Recommended oils.
Oil Filter
To make it last longer, i change oil every 1,000 miles = Bottles are cheap but a replacement engine isn’t, call me OCD lol.X-Ring chain is good, stick with JT or Japanese brands = You WILL snap with chinese chains.
Sprockets = stick with JT or SunStar Japan = All other brand sprockets are just rubbish, they slowly chew up the front engine shaft!
However PRO-X , Renthal are trusted sprocket brands too.Warm up the bike again,
Then remove both spark plugs , crank at full throttle for 5 seconds
And tell us the readings again in PSi if possible.
Regards
Good job on saving that RT125 intake pipe! – Looking good, as the engine heats up and cools , check its not cracking a few hundred miles later , what did you use anyway ?
Gotta say, i can tell you aren’t regretting the 520 conversion lol. Leave a shop review on the chain page 😉
F – marking would mean the engine is ready to check the valve clearances at the top front, however since you already have the engine apart, you can spin it to see its lowest point , then mark the flywheel to say “PLF” (Piston Low Front) and rear PLR , Korea should have done it at factory, but when i rebuild engines i don’t need the flywheel to know if the piston is up or down since i’ve already removed the heads 😉
4x bolts = around 20ft lbs and use a little bit of loctite-medium strength. (not the hard strength)
Looks like it was burning oil when the piston rings gave up or the valve seats started cracking (made of some kind of plastic/rubber) , and leaked oil into the chambers
wow
Awersome , glad you solved it all. And no rebuild kits for Master Cylinders (Hyosung Korea did not make such parts) either a full cylinder or not.
eBay USA seems to have a lot of used parts for your bike incase of a hurry than getting it from us due to as you say time difference & distance haha
About 15 ft lbs , loctite thread lock is good to stop the bolts rattling loose , as that’s a critical part of the bike (can’t stop with no brakes!)
Go on the headlight unit, there is 3 screws holding the glass on the side. Unscrew them and take the headlight glass off.
Then disconnect the wires behind the headlight glass.
Get a 14mm socket tool , and go under the fork lower tree where the headlight holder is mounted to, unscrew it. This removes the whole headlight assembly
Reverse this to fit everything back.
Next……The plastic panel that’s under the tank left side HUGGING the frame steering head, remove it. Disconnect the blue dash plug.
Next…. Go under the steering top yoke -> Unscrew the ignition assembly.
Next…. Unscrew the 2 bolts holding the dash unit.
Now you have a dash unit on the table ? –> The “little lights” for LEFT turn signal , hi beam, neutral, etc” have their own screw under the dash unit.
Remove one or 2 screws under there, now you can change the bulb.
Regards
Relay/Capacity/Resister for the horn = Unit , some models ie 2017 125R it’s not really immediately obvious or can be missing. Hyosung is strange like that but either way “unit” = joins the horn wires , probably to stop electric electric retrograding back too (to save the harness from frying i guess)
