♠️ M77
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That is a unique question and one I am actually keen to learn more as you want to risk opening it up. Normally, I just replace the CDI’s on customer bikes, the lower class 125 & 250ccs don’t even look encourage to try to open them up! as if there was some kind of black goo plastered all over with only connectors showing and that’s it.
If your CDI has plastic casing on both sides (I have to assume so, as i know some 650’s do, but i never actually had my hands on a GV version) , there should be a line going all the way around acting as a seem / seam <?> . Then slowly try to pry it open?
Another overlooked issues we get on bikes is heat fatigue on what it does to electronics , like a computer PC, if an SSD runs too hot without cooling it, it’s circuitry you will see scorch marks on the PCB. Heat is usually a bike’s enemy either to the engine pistons or electronics!
Following this topic!
We always need more brains on this forum. Welcome and glad to hear you didn’t divorce her. Are you planning to go for a long ride with her this summer at all ?
Post some pics of the ride too 🙂
This topic should help verify the CDI has the correct wires going in to it.
Needing a little help with my current project (+GT125 CDI PIN OUT)
Regards
That’s good to hear, at least you know the owner will try to appreciate it more now its also riding season. You will be back 😉
The fuel tap that sits on the tank itself is burst (happens more than the pump)
or
Vacuum Lines need checking (tutorial here)
or
Change your intake o-rings (vacuum loss) –> click here….
or
Inspect your intake manifolds….
or
Your airbox is missing clamps or isn’t sitting on the carbs properly (see here)Lastly, your choke could be open (close the choke) and crank bike for 5 seconds max and WAIT, otherwise any longer will burn out your starter motor and its relay solenoid which is more money to spend and fix.
During that 5 seconds of cranking without you twisting throttle, you should see the filter fill up
If the filter faces the wrong way, that could be an issue too
Lastly , if it flows better with your fuel cap on the tank lock OPEN ===-> your cap needs replacing (not user serviceable) i mention this because on a hot day , the tank gets warm too, so the air inside the tank expands actually, and needs the cap to slowly hiss (vent off) or you will get an intake lockup where the fuel stops going to the carbs, the bike drinks fuel from its bowl until it dies on the side of the road.
Hope that helps. Keep us posted, as it will help someone else who may read this.
I suspect this may be to do with the 2016-2018 GV250 harness being updated to use a special box that has a lot of fuses for different parts of the bike, due to the suspicion of me seeing a lot of orange / red wires going to it.
Generally red and orange signify live wires on hyosung bikes but Hyosung “may change” later on.
You should checkout also the 250cc EFi service manual which has a wiring diagram (Delphi GT & GV behave the same but GV just has extra sensor or 2. ) , if you don’t see the manual on this forum , there is also the alternative source called ManualsLIB which should have a 2016-2018 delphi manual.
I know it is Delphi as i can see the black and grey connectors for the ECU.
That was my thought with the pump running. Just odd it died and then no spark on either. Once I manage to test it I’ll reply, currently requiring an old CB350 for the father in law and also need to balance the carbs on the CBR so might be a week.
Take it out for a spin when done. Good old Honda 🙂
Clutch switch. side stand switch. right switch gear. ecu connector plug. these were our issue on a customer 2017 GV i had to fix. no fi errors. But i suspect sparking coils + caps if ecu primes the pump
clutch switch is new, side stand switch removed, right switch seems to work (cuts pump of if flicked), cleaned ecu plug. Might have another coil somewhere. Just wouldn’t have thought they would both go at the same time.
Fingers crossed it is just a case of either the coils have gone dud , or if the coils work but it is the “Plug Caps” that have gone dead, so the spark plug isn’t getting anything from coils due to dead caps.
I’ve experience enough EFi Hyosungs in the flesh to know, if i hear the pump prime on the key , it would usually mean it is ready to start , i could have a dead heating sensors but bike still tries to fire up then red FI light comes on with a code saying “Heater sensor element faulty” etc , as long as the ECU works is the main key , other small parts are just a case of going through them one by one.
So if you’re on the road , and it says 0 KPH / MPH ?
Just the speed? Everything else like Revs , Turn Signals , Neutral ETC work ?
If that’s the case, then it is the speedo drive / speed sensor itself yes, it is on the front wheel , left side.
Hi Marcel. Ive narrowed the issue down to the regulator/ rectifier. Can you supply a replacement and how much please? Thanks Ian
Hey Ian, please send me an email clicking the link below ( i am sure , we already sent you one ages ago with a quote, so it might be in Spam Folder)
Clutch switch. side stand switch. right switch gear. ecu connector plug. these were our issue on a customer 2017 GV i had to fix. no fi errors.
But i suspect sparking coils + caps if ecu primes the pump
The difference between the later model 650 forks is the shape of the mount on FORK LEG & postion of mounting holes for the 2x screws, yes? If 400ml is maximum fork oil, then 380ml should be ok,yes (will get slightly less damping as there is more air in tube to compress).
you wouldn’t want to overfill as that would make the forks too stiff or jarring!😬
Correct on the 650 forks, later models => bottom legs change to fit the black 4-pot calipers.
I hope you can figure this one out fella, and we’re here to get to the bottom of it , it will be easier than diagnosing a faulty EFi chinese bike with unknown sensors & injectors!
Keep us updated
Keep her Jim, i could be biased but would you think it is one of the few bikes you owned to has its own character that’s kind of like “i may retire with her and divorce the rest of the others!”
Sounds like you put a lot of miles on that rear tyre, that’s a rare thing to hear , i may get it for my other future scrambler i am looking to buy (but eh, i could always get another GT and just mount enduro tyres for some light off roading) (still gotta put a sump plate (belly pan) incase of hitting a rock!)
Hmmm , fingers crossed because Hyosung kept their forks & engines silver until around 2010 , where they did a facelift models with updated parts in black colour, their engine became black too. (250cc would have gold forks , then black forks but not adjustable)
All 650 forks are adjustable top and bottom.
You got this 😀
400ML is usually max capacity but hyosung has updated the 650 forks 3 times! (Old , Newer , and 2020+ updates for their current LED GV650 models which borrow GT forks!)
So if you want to use 650 forks on your GT250 = Get the silver ones. This is up to 2008 as a safe mark. Around 2009-2012 different countries started getting black 650 forks with updated calipers.
So 2005-2008 GT650 should be fine 🙂
Hey
Can you check your coils for primary and secondary resistance?
Or
Go to any bike shop or junk-yard and get “SUZUKI SV650 1999” (must be 99 only) and use their coils.
SV650 1999 and GT650 Hyosung carb both use the same Mitsubishi Japan coils , but suzuki is more common, so you will be able to find it easier, make sure it is from a working bike.
Also the “PLUG CAPS” crack a lot in hyosung and they stop your coils sending sparks to the spark plug, so also get SV650 1999 Plug Caps too.
or check that your Hyosung plug caps have resistance (between 3,000 to 25,000 ohms) (without the coils attached to them)
Also, check your stator , if its dead, you will get no sparks. Click below to lean how to check your stator
Rectifier – How to Test Stator , Battery , Regulator – GT125R Carby
Yes the topic says “GT125R” , but the rules are the same for GT650
If it is black , the colour is just Satin VHT Black (but Hyosung does their own in-house custom black paint or custom silver paint and sometimes they do them Anodized) or use Suzuki Black Engine paint (if it can be found in your country)
Hmmm, ill update as i go along, but at the top of my head.
– Stock Regulator = Pimp it or watch it burn eventually and cheap China replacements are no better.
– Owners put wrong batteries = It uses YTX-14BS from factory. Owners put little scooter batteries
– Fried stators = because of regulator or owners putting Heated Grips when it doesn’t want it (KIES Heated gloves are better and have their own power bank to warm your hands)
– Stock tyres = suicide bricks in winter , but OK-ish in summer. Use michelins
– Forks pit easy (as with any bike with USD forks) , so split the forks and put gaiters for protection or Fork Seals will be your MOT worries
– 428 chain = Cheap for Korea to stick them on but bike is 180kgs, they ALWAYS eventually snap!
(520 is best)– Stock caps crack , so ignition issues (The plug hole is deep and very hot down there), we switch up to NGK ones one.
Bad caps ? ==> Your coils will die with them.Fork Gaiters (Yes fork gaiters) MUST be used to hide the 3 plugs under the airbox because the front tyre chucks a LOT of wet salty (soon cracked terminals and kill switch issues)
Like any bike, water and rain is the enemy => use gaiters to hide plugs exposed to elements , like your Stator Plugs behind rear shock
Like it’s GS500 sister, the swingarm uses cheap paint. Strip and re-coat with better paint.
Rear shock = Avoid 2010-2020 shocks, they ALWAYS bend. Any used 2003-2009 shock from GT125 or GT650 will outlive it! 03-09 have better shocks.
Calipers = Great stuff when they work, and also used on 650cc , so upgrade is OVERKILL, but pistons rust easy, so stainless pistons are recommended.
Brake Pad Pins = Get stainless pins (like these) , because sometimes owners replace calipers after damaging their old ones trying to extract a rusted pin.
that’s all i can think of for now
The bike will last as long as the owner stays OCD with it. I’ve had my own 2007 GT last me nearly 10yrs with mostly OEM parts still intact and did almost 60,000 miles. I went all over UK with it , now I ride the GV and soon a supermoto (Hyosung RX) if i can find it!
Should be a Wire Pinout Diagram on the forum , search “Pin out” in the site , another member did a job detailing what each wire does and it is EFI GT650 , but some wires are also shared with carby GV650 There is also a service manual on the forum, download the one that matches your bike as it should explain how to check your CDI unit and wiring diagram in the last pages of the GV650 manual To attach photos click the “green add media” button from your PC or Phone to attach a photo. If an error comes up, tell us the “error” and i will fix the errors on the site. I will also test with another account to upload images. If you see image below, it means it was working for me.
on my friends multimeter on the ohms setting is 3 positions 200,2000 & 20k which setting to check the cdi Thank you for the help bro
It should be on the service manual ?
