♠️ M77
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I also dont know how to upload photos on here
Use the “Add Media” button on the reply box , its the green button as you’re replying to us.
Then select “Upload” , it will ask you where your picture is
Eg. Phone, tap your phones gallery folder inside the pop up window , so the site can fetch it. Give it a minute or two if its a big image.
Have a look at this too:
How to change / upgrade fuel lines & fuel filter on CARBY GV125 & GV250 Diagram
Also , if the carbs came out, maybe it is possible the intake o-rings need replacing ?
Look at this below:[Guide] Intake boot manifold removal GV125C / GV250 Carby (Air Box Tutorial)
if the o-rings under those pipes don’t sit right, you will get all you just described.
If not, triple check the floats were not accidently bent even just 1mm error , may mean too much fuel or too little fuel
See here , and scroll to where it says check float height in that topicGT/GV= Same engine, same carbs.
Yes you can block those 4 holes but if the carb itself has a silver port expecting vacuum from air box, connect it back.
Also I am concerned the fuel filter is facing the wrong way (restricting the flow-speed potentially)
Also make sure the Engine Side is blank, so there is no hissing from the engine cylinders too.
Headlight Unit:
- Controlled by both right switch (it turns it off or on) => All carb models or early 2008-2009 EFI GTR.
- Controlled by left switch too (high beam , pass/flash , low beam)
Press the “Yellow button” on the left switch , the headlight must flash
Does it?
Rear light = If your rear of the bike uses BULB type (big giant red cluster unit) , it will be on all the time usually , but older GTR will have it OFF until rider turns lights on from the right switch.
Brakes = Must always work, regardless if the headlight is dead. Brake Switches trigger the red light at the back directly. Controlled by a 15A fuse in passenger area.
Dashboard = Red wire (usually) on the harness turns the LCD glass on. but i can’t comment further until you upload a picture of your dash, Hyosung has made a few variations of them (later ones using SMD LED’s directly on the board, older ones have bulbs on the REV side only but LCD glass has its own light source under the glass to illuminate it. A picture would help.
Indicators = Left Switch Gear & 3-PIN Relay control it . There is a socket for 3-Pin relay, this is for indicators only. Left switch controls them directly , while the dash also gets a signal from them to tell you which side is flashing.
Worst case? = Remove harness, and check all related wires are “complete” end to end so there is no dead signals going from the bulb to the switches or relay. Time consuming but well worth it and a pocket meter helps a lot.
Got new fuel lines and fuel filter, and cleaned tank using vinegar,installed everything, and tried cranking the bike, it cranked but no fuel in fuel filter even after cranking for a while, Would low compression of, 110 and 90 cause fuel to not flow, or is it something else? Starts on ez start, then dies and still no fuel in fuel filter
Sounds stupid, but please excercise caution! –> Grab 2 vacuum hoses going to the tap and pump, get someone else to press start & hold clutch in for 3 seconds.
You should feel the pipes trying to such your cheeks , then vacuum is there but if its weak or non-existent, you have a leak around the carb or intake pipes.
Also, keep in mind it is possible the pump or tap my be clogged with debris preventing the fuel coming out ? And make sure the “WHITE PART” of the fuel filter is facing the pump (If the filter was in reverse, it would cause problems), the filter has a direction arrow that shows the fuel flow direction. Your fuel pump will have arrows too on the gold ports for fuel flow.
Silver port on the fuel pump is vacuum from the intake manifolds.
If you have a 428 chain , you can just get 428 DID chain for a little while until you upgrade yourself to a 520 kit.
Ours is just a 520 sprocket from techcorps or JT (our local supplier sends it to us) to fit the 125cc , usually 1-day wait and we ship them sometimes extra time is needed if we get sprockets from EU (ie. Afam or Sunstar front sprockets). Payment is not a problem in any currency , there is different way to pay , even Amazon Pay , Revolut, Klarna/ClearPay etc is included. Send an email to discuss further.
If you source it locally, get a normal 428 sprocket kit for your bike and use DID as trusted brand, bike uses 136-140 links chain. You could probably be OK using the same sprocket all year from new. It is cheap rubbish chains like CHOHO (china) , MTX (china) that wear down badly. Stick with DID or JT
X Ring / O-Ring is up to you! Just lasts a little longer but good adjustments and good chain lube is more important for chain life.
It uses the same valve as SV650 , since Hyosung produced both engines. They should use the same seals.
Suzuki bikes should be popular in your country, is it possible that the garage can remove one valve from your 650cc , take its seal out. Use that seals to get dimensions to match from another suzuki bike that is likely in the scrap yard to strip from? Could be the quickest way to get them locally.
Heya bro where can i get these 2 relays. The lights control and turn signals? have no headlights, indicators, lcd screen or brake lights (08 gt250r) bike starts n rides so I assume relays are gone
This topic is old now and was made by the original poster, so it is advised to make a new topic if you can.
Relays = ebay , like this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256865891537Indicators (Turn Signals) = If you have LED indicators, then get an LED Motorcycle Relay 3 Pin from places like Amazon too.
Maybe start a new topic as that would be easier,
Also take out fuel sensor & measure ohms (float up and float down)
Measure resistance in the sensor wires to the ECU , incase somewhere is broken in the harness, stopping signals reaching ECU
Can you rip that pipe out when you cut that flange off?
The inner pipe inside is the real exhaust, the outerpipe is a welded 2nd layer (also acts as a shield) , it doesn’t affect power.
Yes GT125R all years until 2020 use carbs and engines robbed from the GV125 Aquila. So yes your GT engine will fit inside the GV Aquila Carb model.
Just the 2020+ GV125 EFi (the new model bobbers) have a totally different engine & use fuel injectors now.
Strange,
When you click “Add Media” on your Phone , click “Upload” button as shown below:
Then find the source of the picture (In this case, navigate to your DCIM/CameraPictures Folder in your phone)
As for your GV, if there is no display cluster , it will run without it but ofcourse you need to see what is happening though. Do you have a local breaker where you are to find a wrecked Hyosung GV250 EFi to get its dashboard? And possibly a spare ECU.
Since the bike is EFi , it uses an ECU only , so no need for a CDi (for carb models only)
Based on your ECU, you have a 2009-2012 model which has a super super rare ECU (that ECU is not made anymore by Daewoo, hence Hyosung upgraded their harness and ECU to Delphi Electronics after 2013+ – I hope that ECU of yours is intact.
If the stator looks damaged, that could be a source , check the flywheel isn’t damaged in any way before it kills the next one as there is a very narrow gap between the stator and flywheel when it spins.
Hope you are able to upload a picture from your phone/pc to show us ?
If not , alternatively upload pictures to imgur.com and copy the “BBCODE” —> come back to the forum –> click “TEXT” (next to visual blue tab) in the reply box , then paste the BBCODE here. The forum will fetch the images remotely where you uploaded to imgur.com
I will do my best to recode this site again so its easier to make uploads here.
Yup, EFi will be fine on carby. Just plug the extra unneeded holes 🙂
Where it says “Add Media” on top of the reply box here , thats where you upload pictures 🙂
What ECU does it have ?
Do you get a flashing Fi light on the dash? How many sequences?
Eg. 10 blinks _ pause _ 5 blinks _ pause 4 blinks = that’s 10 , 4 , 5 and it repeats the same sequence , we can then use this sequence in the manual to locate a specific error code and why (manual is in the forum for download, it explains how to trick the dash to give you a blinking error sequence)
Keep an eye on the spark plug , see if it turns brown because “pure white” isn’t good long term, it suggests overheating soon due to low fuel at high revs / high loads or the sparking system stops firing every now and then when it gets hot (but then if it stopped firing, plugs would be very sooty wet with unburnt fuel)
Keep an eye on the injector and fuel pump!
There is a few youtube videos on guys with very old suzukis as they still had metal tanks, some use vinegar, some use white spirit combinations and there was a product used to clean car tanks (metal tanks of old 20th century cars) but keep forgetting the name of it, some also use metal marbles and shaking the tank all day , then using magnet sticks to scoop out floating rust after the fluids have drained out. There is many ways to do it , just make sure the tank is fully dried out but if liquids touch the paint, be ready to cry and likely go to the bodyshop to get it resprayed properly.
Compression Loss as per manual, so i will quote it from the horse’s mouth:
Low compression pressure can indicate any of the fol
lowing conditions :
●Excessively worn cylinder wall
●Worn-down piston or piston rings
●Piston rings stuck in grooves
●Poor seating of valves
●Ruptured or otherwise defective cylinder head gasketNow i’m just waiting for my right hand switch replacements, the start button pinged off on my second day lol
Blame the last owners for pressing too hard! Hope that gets fixed asap , we got a few weeks of summer left.
It sounds like a battery went out (inside the dash) – Some hyosungs have it (so look inside and check) but other Hyosungs even GVs store that in the micro-chips. I’ve been there myself.
I just tell the MOT guy to check the last mileage and i took the picture when it turned zero , then told him how many miles i did afterwards
You can also check the “Trip Meter” to see if it saved anything by pressing the select button, but if both say zero , then yes you encountered the rare moment where the dash just went to zero!
Unless you have a spare harness to connect the dash and battery away from the bike + front wheel on a conveyor belt + run it for days , the dash will start recording mileage because it thinks you’re driving. I’ve haven’t found other ways to cheat the mileage counter without breaking something.
