♠️ M77
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Hello,
I don’t know anyone down there personally but…. I have a trusted business partner who works on hyosungs and makes orders on our site. Send a message to “PASS-BIKE UK” and ask for Caroline. They may not be where you are but I suspect they will arrange with you to get the bike collected and sort it out for you.
If not, this forum is open to diagnosing any potential issues the bike has. Just make a new topic again with that specific issue.
Also browse the forum’s “Manuals” section and get your GV650 service manual, it will detail how to troubleshoot the bike and get error codes or FI light sequences (it will flash a certain number of times to indicate a code) and it details clutch install.
Hope this reply helps
Probably 4-5mm thick to be honest but measure your old pipes to be sure.
Was the “Add Media” button not working on the forum ?
Also, in regards to the bolt stuck there…
- Hairdryer ==> blow the intake hole on cold setting or compressed air. Even a small rock dust will grind your piston rings = compression loss or burning oil later.
- Then plug that hole before doing repairs
I suspect a dremel should do it or weld a nut on to it?
If not, drill through it , and use Heli-coil kit to rethread it.
Carb unit =
- That hole in yellow circle means you need a hose attached there and also in the MIDDLE of the carb —> join up with a T-piece —> 1 long hose to the road, this is overflow/breather pipe. If the bike fell on the side where the coils are and fuel will come out of there 100% , if the hose is missing and coils get faulty (arc-ing / sparks escape, its an instant fire!!!)
Glad you noticed that!
- Cylinder Heads = Find a way to remove as much crud as possible until its very smooth (even attach a polish ball to a drill to smooth out the surface) then get new o-rings , you can’t trust those ones anymore.
Glad you’re OK, it is never fun getting involved with a cager. I’ve been there many times and i can definitely say to say “Stay Vigilant All Times!” and enjoy the ride.
The upgrades for the GV250 really depends what you want to do with it ?
Visually = Beauty is of the beholder! Some people have done chop-shop mods to make the back end look more like a chopper/dragster which is all custom work in itself.
Under the hood = Beefing up the electrical system and the clutch , plus a good X-ring chain set should set you up for those long journeys without any hiccups!
Fuel = Try to use RON97-RON99 fuel if you can (Less ethanol is better) here in UK we have E5 fuel which GOV UK says it is around 5% ethanol mix and advised E10 (10%+ ethanol) isn’t good for carb bikes. I don’t know what the USA has as i imagine fuel can vary from state to state.
By the time I finished typing the previous message, the add media tab was gone and it isn’t in place for this message either. If the hose piece fails again due to heat from the exhaust, I will try blocking the pipe and see if it causes any problems. I’m still leaning towards the floorboard heat to get rid of moisture or frost.
I will investigate it , sorry for the hassle!
Remove exhaust , and try some kind of “car aluminium heatshield foil ” and stick it on the bike itself , so that any heat from exhaust gets deflected away from it ?
I logged in as a normal users (non-admin, i was able to see the button) , I will test further in the weak to make sure there isn’t some bug.
I saw the pictures , I can respond here just to make it easier to stay on topic. The email will change in the near future that’s why.
Does the exhaust rattle or feel loose at all ? What would happen if someone was to cut the middle of the exhaust off and just put a straight pipe that goes to the giant muffler at the back, least there is less pipe work to deal with
I don’t know about your state laws , but it is possible the engine has an extra pipe from the air intake box going to the engine or the exhaust as part of “emissions control” or fake emissions if you will. (just extra air being sucked from the airbox and recycled out of the exhaust so it appears the exhaust is burning cleaner “so to speak”)
Having the airbox fitted makes it easier to run in fairness, hence these carbs never ran right when people started putting pod filters on them.
If the bike is air staved, the plugs would be very sooty or wet-like texture to it but it can also mean weaker ignition parts (weak sparking system) in tandem
Shed/Garage doesn’t affect anything unless its really windy outside you gotta work inside! but keep the doors open though, as you don’t want to be choking on that gas out of the exhaust.
At this point , I would try to get jets (pilots and mains) and make sure both carbs use SIZE 15 mains.
Then Rear 92.5 and front 90 for the mains
Mixture screws, start at a 3 full turns out each and leave it there as that’s close enough to OEM settings
If it runs worse, then do 2,5 full turns out each max.
Air blast the carbs again for one last time.I would also be suspicious of the intake pipes for their o-rings or even the airbox being missing? or intake rubbers cracking?
If the air is good. Look at the filter again, when it runs on check, the tap should let out a small steady stream of fuel ?
Normally after idling around 2k for a few minutes hot, the filter should be half full. General riding will be “50% to 80% full, as it is a big filter enough to fill both carb bowls if it has to)
If not, did we replace the “Tap” and “pump” ? if you suspect it being starved of fuel to idle properly
Twisting a throttle up, should squirt more fuel through the mains as the slides lift (like you saw in the video)
Keep that video in mind when doing rev/throttle tests on the carb.
Choke is more like a “by-pass” thing to quickly wake up the bike before letting it idle on its own pilot jets.
I have been looking for the “add media” tab but can’t find it.
Should be there. Like this one on the screenshot below?
Okay no problem, keep us posted when the local mechanic takes a look!
You’re welcome!
If you have problems clicking the “Add Media” button on the reply-box , let me know and I will test it myself as a non-admin.
Tell me if there is issues uploading on Phone (Android? iPhone? or Laptop)
I uploaded a picture and it worked as you can see….
Regards!
Yes blue pumps = Delphi ECU only. I forgot to mention.
And good luck
Can you upload a picture on the forum ? “(Add Media)” button above the white reply box
This is so i can see what you’re describing
If it backfired a few times, he needs to elaborate a bit more ? As it could either be ingition system or fake emissions stuff still on the motor
Like this topic below:
And do you have a picture of the bike so we can see the exhaust setup
Click “Add Media” button , it is the green one on top of the white reply box as you respond back, and upload one from any device.
If not send it to one-drive/dropbox/google-drive and paste the “share link” below so we can see the image after clicking the link
Regards
PS. welcome to the forum 🙂 // you will LOVE the GV650 for its comfort , believe me on that one.
Welcome!!
Sorry for the delay, those would be drain pipes (sometimes overflow by the engine). Not to be concerned, hence they are facing the road.
If those pipes are bursting out oil or coolant/anti-freeze while riding, then it is an emergency situation (no riding until engine is fixed!). Hopefully that isn’t the case as the bike looks nice and clean.
If nothing is happening, then just carry on but while on the coolant subject, as were in summer, make sure the radiator and reservoir behind the black plastic coverings are full. So engine isn’t running dry.
The headlight will have 3 wires going to it under the headlight shell ==== Yellow, White , Black or Grey
You must get 12v out of them or you may find that the smoke/smell you witnessed before could be from down there. maybe previous owner put “100w bulbs” and caused the fry up ? It should be H1 and H3 at 55 watts each max.
Dash = Open the unit itself and look for burns.
The rev-counter should still light up on its own and has its own bulbs.
The LCD glass has its own power line (usually red or orange wire going to it)
Next time you see the red “FI” icon flash on the dash. Please count it. It is actually telling you the error code.
For example…..
10 blinks , stops , 3 blinks , stops 5 blinks
So we got 10-3-5 as an error code. We will know what that is
Sometimes if its 2 sensors , it will flash as
10-1-6 = Lambda Sensor #1
10-5-5 = Neutral SensorThen it repeats itself.
Turn the key ON & OFF 3 times MAX within 2 seconds to get flashing blinks
If you turn the key on and off 5x , it will most likely reset the ECU and the old codes gone.
Keep in mind, 2011 models use higher pressure fuel pump than the later models (blue vs black pumps) (most blue pumps are for later models) so lower pressure pump blue if fitted in your bike could be the reason you get FI warnings while riding.
Get a bottle of “injector cleaner for motorcycles” –> pour ALL of it inside the tank -> ride slow until you get to low fuel, this should help “soft-clean” your fuel lines , your injectors incase of any blockages
Use fresh CR8E plugs (no other plugs) , just the Yellow copper CR8E is best. Some people would say use CR9E at your dealer but i would run away from those dealers. If the manual says CR8E then use it as the original base plug.
Hey guys my name is Jarret and I just registered with hyoriders. I was actually trying to find out about possible aftermarket air intake or filter options for a GV250 when I came across this forum/thread(I’m not sure of proper terminology) but anyway as Marcel had mentioned about a version of carb model with electric fuel pump and how they realized stators would last longer without it…Well it just so happens I have one of those models that I bought back in December. It’s a 2002 GV250 Alpha and I’m currently going through that exact issue. My stator has gone bad and has left me stranded a time or two now due to battery dying and then of course dead battery=no fuel so I now know that I’m gonna see if I can’t try and convert to vacuum pump. I’m glad I came across this and look forward to exchanging info and such with u guys. Thanks for allowing me to join.
Let’s do it.
Make a new topic and we will follow it with you.REGULATOR upgrade is an ABSOLUTE key/ If anything electric needs upgrading, make sure it is a regulator (like the one you saw on the shop)
The grey ones are too small and got re-called by Hyosung , and they tried to amend with another black one, but the OEM Korea & China regulators are just not worth a fried bike!
Stator = Replace it. But if you want to test the stator health, I will show you in a separate topic you make.
Welcome Jarret!
Your first bike happens to be a Hyosung ? Damn, welcome to the dark side! 😉 If you can share a picture of it , we would like to see it (just click the green “Add Media” button you see when replying)
How is the bike so far ? I trust that it has made a good impression due to its “comfort” . GV’s are very comfortable bikes to ride compared to the GT and i own both variants of the GT (sportsbike) & GV.
larger pipes are only an extra 2-3mm in diameter, it doesn’t bother it, its thicker as double braided inside, Hyosung says discard all its grey stock lines after 4yrs new , so we might aswell beef them up with pipes that are good for 10yrs and handle heat better, so less chance of your fuel misting towards the carb. Helps a tad.
Large filters are intentional and the size is like your 1-2 mile emergency reserve to quickly find a petrol station but if the tank starts flashing, the bike warns you anyway that you’re low.2L of fuel should be OK in side the tank (i expect that to be 2-3 bars in the dash)
If the bike runs on choke, what happens when you rev very slowly ? and what sounds does it make ? this could be key.
I am suspecting (again) clogged pilot jets and the permanent “jet” that is next to it which controls starting up & “idle switch to pilots”
This video is 100% accurate to our carbs (except we are down-draft upside down type) but the animation is the same (for the most part)
So you can see which areas of the carb affect different throttle positions and idling and starting (with or without choke)
(It wont play on here lol, but click the link inside the youtube box below to view it in an App)
