♠️ M77
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Make sure the plugs face the back tyre.
So that rain from above ^ or rain water from front tyre < ==> isnt trying to rust up your plugs.
The shop did say the regs will be a monstrosity and said “get creative” fitting.
Go back to the shop and look at the customer galleries for correct fitment , grounding to frame isn’t needed , don’t cut anything! – super strong zip ties help too.
Hyosung in 2020 onwards put their update regs UNDER REAR TYRE! (good for cooling but man , they get wet fast!)
Hey, the SV650 restrictor kits may fit but be prepared to make alterations to your bike if you have. It could be easier to source as SV650 seems more wide spread than the GT650 anyway (it came out earlier than GT650)
So ive followed the orange and black wire that was broken and it connects to right handle switches. I tested the wire to the nearest connector and got a reading/continuity. I then repaired it (new 2.8m spade connector). Now after installing cable, still no spark. All the switches on the rh seems to work, killswitch stops the starter, starter button cranks the engine, and headlights work. Im not sure on what to do now?. Do the switches need further testing?.
Coils (are they new?) ==> Check the Plug cap wire is not broken (stops the signals going to the plug)
Stator Unit (wrong one ordered?) (yes it does happen!)
Side Stand Switch = If bypassed, check again. Trust me, even crud under the tape will turn the CDI off from sparking the coils.
Clutch Switch = would NOT recommend bypassing it as “fake neutrals” can happen and bike falls down as soon as you press start , ask how i know!
If the switch is gone, its a quick cheap replacement.Now right there above ^ are what would stop your sparks.
Get a friend to push you down the street ==> Drop to 1st gear , if the bike won’t start from a push & bump, then its defo the above ^
Harness = I will assume you’re going over it like a fine tooth comb where no single wire going to CDI has a breakage. Even the wires for the coils (see link i gave above for CDI layout)
Worst enemy is CDI replacement.
The feature was removed a while ago not to drag & paste in to the reply box as a security measure (hence you don’t really see much spam-bots on here, as i was strict), I will find a way to re-introduce it, bare with me on that one.
For the time being, you would have to manually add picture using Add Media => Find the source where it is (eg. in your ECU folder of your phone’s Gallery where you downloaded the google images to ?) , sorry for the hassle! As long as the image is uploaded , it will actually paste it inside the white text reply box for you and you can move them around the words as you see fit.
It sounds silly, can you disconnect the ignition barrel and remove ALL relays from the bike, then fit one part AT A TIME , until you see the problem?
Also, me and simon usually recommend stripping the bike down if possible and clean every single connector on the bike (some plugs have rust, some plugs have crud in them , all stuff starts to go hay wire and last thing you want is a toast ECU)
Sometimes it could be as silly as indicators themselves being the issue (LED? or Original Indicators) ==> connectors acting funny ==> your relay acts funny in tandem
When you take the harness off , you want to be sure there is no funny burnt smells incase of a bad kink or wire touched each other inside or the frame.
If you have an alarm system = Bin it. Get a professional to help you install one that uses its own battery power and does NOT interfere with your harness / other sensors but because it is a public forum, try not to discuss any security devices you have on here. Email us if unsure to discuss security matters of the bike or get an approved professional installer to have a look, that the police trust. That will help your insurance premiums too! But i am digressing here!
Chain on the rear wheel is too slack (believe it or not, the correct adjustment of the rear wheel chain helps a LOT)
Re-adjust the clutch on the link below:
How to adjust clutch cable – Hyosung GV125C GT125R GT250 GV250
Next, dump the oil => Look at your clutch plates and measure your springs, you will be glad you did, the 250 eats clutch as fast as it does on brake pads too. So hence the service manual says around every 4,000 miles , open the clutch and check.
Also thrust bearing inside the clutch could be worn down (easy item to reply) , here is more:[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
If possible , try to get Motul 7100 , it is an oil that i always recommend on the Hyosungs, and it’s good for the air/oil cooled engines. If not, try also Silkolene Pro 4 oil would be my 2nd pick. and use fresh oil filter each time.
Oil Change tutorial below (as i’ve seen owners drain oil with the wrong plug and loose their gearbox!)
[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
The manual does say, if you use the bike a lot , change the oil more often and use “premium” oil like i mentioned above, the engine will thank you a LOT.
Simply doing a clutch plates change , does wonders too and you extend the life of the clutch,
Check your clutch cable isn’t too old or kinking, a new one rolls smoother than a 15yr old clutch cable that may have internal rust and dirt inside it that you can’t see.
Just ideas here!
Hi Marcel. I can’t seem to find a way to insert media which I have in my Google Photos. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Download the photos to PC / Tablet storage or Phone Storage , then click “Add Media” on this forum to manually add them 🙂
I think it’s time i find an easier way to do it soon while i revamp the site later in the year (time is my enemy!)
Hi all just find out tha my amazing neighbour do some hole in cable just behind the master cylinder unfortunately I can’t see till I went to Check cameras so I double checked and see it Thank you all anyway for the advice Unfortunately the world it’s full of sneaky bastard
Put the bike inside the house from now on and make him pay . Hate people like that , is he expecting you to die on the streets when your brakes fail?
Marcel, can you offer any advice?
Przemek seems to offer good advise , so I haven’t said much yet I’ve seem him get busy with the bike as he was also changing his chain kit 🙂
This will be stupid but work with me ==> block the pipe going to the front of the bike brake
Now try to see if you can find a single banjo (banjo that accepts only a single hose)
Rear brake uses only the rear master cylinder
Front only uses front master cylinder
You just deleted the CBS system and went to the old school wayNow you will know if the front or rear is truly the problem.
Expect to re-bleed the brakes twice
If the rear master cylinder turns out to be bad (since it can’t pump one caliper now) => Replacement is due ofcourse.
Front master cylinder should be OK, as you haven’t said much about it.
Jacob, was the 250 SHOCK siezed a bit? Can you compress it? Does it REBOUND smoohtly after you compress it? I think mine GT250r 2008 shock is toast. It doesn’t sink much at all when i sit on bike. After that it won’t compress. Every speed humnp i hit smacks me in the backside hurts my kidneys. It is not too unsafe to ride but it is not comfy at all. I am wondering if i should get a Hyosung 250 shock or find an aftermarket that bolts straight on without any modifications. Anyone know of some aftermarket shocks for the GT250R 2998 models?
If it feels stiff, look at the shock and find a “C-SPanner For Shock” , rotate the bit Castle Shape Ring that’s sitting on the spring , the LOWER the steps (the softer it is)
A GT650 shock will fit there without messing around, but it will make the rear taller (as the other guy said above ^ )
If you have big cash, the ultimate bolt on shock would be from HAGON SHOCKS UK , they make springs for 650 forks and 650 shocks, but cost a lot. Contact them if interested as they will ship direct to you. The 250 swingarm has SMALLER room to fit an exhaust pipe and a shock than a 650 does, a shock that’s too long WILL snap eventually (bent) as the 250R dog bones already hit the frame when the shock is too long, you will have hell. Hagon is better , as it’s just “bolt in & go” .
Looks like Google is saying that we need access , would it be possible to directly upload the photos on to the forum using Add Media button on the reply box.
Also it should allow the document to be uploaded too.
I need to find a toasted CDI from the lower class GV models and see what i can discover , this looks fun to open up 😭😬 , the whole shell is once piece but with lots of black goo underside , if i dremel through the plastic , i may actually cut through a capacitor resting on the walls inside if it has one!
A couple pics of my machine. https://photos.app.goo.gl/NcDxEecPYfbnQbZJ9
if you could be able to directly upload on this forum? I could use them as future site top-banners , when i do a minor facelift to the site later in the year possibly 🙂
Be my guest! I have some more pictures of the GTS if needed 😉 Ride safe, Vanzz
Yes please , share away in the topic. You will see an update look later in the year possibly , and I already put members bikes on the banners you see at the top, they rotate based on each page.
Be safe out there too fella 😀
I had to do this to a customer bike 2 weeks ago for his MOT would fail on those pipes. Before adding him some Black Widow SS pipes, the torx bit is a T40 Security Dot Torx (torx bit with a hole in the middle)
If it rounds off , then find T45 (the next one) or T50 === > wear gloves and have a LOT of patience ==> Hammer the Torx bit inside until it is firm and hard.
Once it is firm and hard inside, then you have ONE good shot to turn it!
If not , can you get a mobile welder around to come over and weld a torx bit to the bolt ?
Don’t scrap her, you can do this.
Like my other lad , his garages ran away from the sight of his bike and because it’s a “Hyosung” but they are happy to work on a chinese “lexmoto?” , morons tbh lol.
Oh I see, so this could be the issue, I tried pushing it back in the connector while cranking yet nothing. Any way to test it before i fix it up?, as I have a feeling it may be damaged.
Follow the orange way all the way to the front of the harness and test with a meter for a breaks , as a possible short somewhere that’s stopping the electric flow reaching the CDI
The 650 shocks were always a little bit longer but more stiffer spring as the weight of the 650 vs 250 bike as a whole is not the same. Plus the 650 has a wider rim (more mass) than a 250 rim. It would make sense not to use 250cc parts.
Good discovery!
Hmmm, your 650 should have a Japan Mitsubishi ECU (if it says 2008-2010 on the chassis) , it is not a bad ECU , but any EFI will be a little slower for emission laws in certain countries, so Hyosung just used a universal map of their own , so it behaves the same way whatever country it is sold to
Have tried this first (use the service manual on the forum for tutorials),
- compression check
- valve clearances
- TPS check
- Fuel Pump can’t be checked easily but check strainer isn’t gunked up or if the motor sounds weaker, get a new pump, it helps a LOT.
- Pour injector cleaner for bikes inside your fuel tank (all of it) => Ride until the tank is low on fuel, so the cleaner mixed with fuel can try to “soft-clean” your fuel system so to speak, maybe injectors could just simply need a clean. Worst case scenario (brand NEW injectors will make the bike alive again)
Report back with your figures?
Check the last owner didn’t add performance filters or upgraded his jets or did some kind of tuning or change sprockets to alter gearing to make you feel like its faster than your EFi.
EFi is supposed to be more snappier on throttle than a carby one in general.
But ….. a properly tuned carb model will have a small edge of a stock EFi.
Unless you’re also smart or know someone that lives inside DELPHI ECU’s , you can ask them to tune your ECU if it says DELPHI with the harness etc , there is a risk, a small mistake can render the ECU dead completely.
So check your bike with the manual & do the cleaning suggestion , then see how you feel and weigh your thoughts on that.
Keep us posted!
Welcome to the forum, you have 2 very beautiful widow makers!
The GTR with the nose cone, should be officially “GT650S” if it has the little triangles under there (rare) but it was a common style like that for USA market and it was called official GTS (half-fairing bike)
More knowledge is always welcome, whatever you have to share or tutorials is always welcome 😀
If i re-design this website later in 2025-2026 , I will probably use the picture of your GT-S if you are OK with that?
the orange wire is shared with the ignition barrel , right switch gear , and dashboard – So if these go out, it cuts power off to the CDI, and CDI cuts the sparks off.
:):) I’d love to go for a long ride once I get the bike back on the road BUT the island of Faial is only 65 km around the perimeter with a huge volcano in the middle that takes up lots of landmass! However I have been know to have a day out and ride arounf the island three times to get a couple hundred kms on the clock!
Don’t forget your Ferry Pass, if you can get on a Ferry with your bike, you tour the nearby islands , Hawaii maybe ?
