♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Should be a Wire Pinout Diagram on the forum , search “Pin out” in the site , another member did a job detailing what each wire does and it is EFI GT650 , but some wires are also shared with carby GV650
There is also a service manual on the forum, download the one that matches your bike as it should explain how to check your CDI unit and wiring diagram in the last pages of the GV650 manual
To attach photos click the “green add media” button from your PC or Phone to attach a photo.
If an error comes up, tell us the “error” and i will fix the errors on the site. I will also test with another account to upload images.
If you see image below, it means it was working for me.
This topic is kind of a duplicate, so it is locked.
You have been responded to below:This topic is kind of a duplicate, so it is locked.
You have been responded to below:Sports CDi’s don’t exist for that bike. And if I am honest, I would keep using the original Hyosung Korea CDi’s . They fail less than chinese clones.
Quoting from your other topic:
Bike Model = : Hyosung gv650 2006 carburetor model
I have a problem with bike not starting I think it’s a possible cdi unit problem
My question is
My cdi unit says. BB7725-1 5K07
I found one the same make of cdi and same model of bike but it’s a 2007 year bike the number of the CDI unit on this is BB7725-1 6F14
The last 4 numbers/letters are different what are these representing and would it be compatable for my 2006 model
I would say all carby GV650 use the same CDI unit
You may need to remove the harness and test all pins to find which wire has been shorted and try to patch it up. (You said it won’t spark anymore , sounds like something LIVE touched the frame and shorted a wire (burn a wire somewhere)
If the CDI blew, you will need another one.
I saw 1 topic with the same question, so it is locked and this one too.
So I will reply to this 3rd one below.
2013 650R – Is it a Delphi or Daewoo ECU?
When you go on this forum, look at the Manuals section and download the one that matches your model (I uploaded every single 650 manual possible)
In that manual, read how to trick the ECU in to giving you an Error Code or count the blinks displayed by the Fi Red Light on the dash
Ie. If the dash says C23 = that would be oxygen sensor #2 (rear pipe oxygen sensor fault) , this is just an example!
It’s not spinning the RPM needle because the ECU is locked until one of the sensors on the bike is looked at or something is unplugged.
As Simon would usually say on this forum (he is an EFi wizard too) , you would need to disconnect everything and clean the plugs connecting all sensors on the bike with the battery disconnected for a while ( for the ECU to reset itself).
Or check the ECU plug too
Let us know the error codes you get , the manual also shows you how to test sensors on the bike using a pocket meter.
Yes you need fuel in the tank, the pump will be quickly damaged if you try to run it dry. (The dash will tell you if there is fuel = eg. 4 bars of fuel left)
A minimum of 3-4 bars of fuel is good. Any less isn’t good for the pump (fuel sloshes left and right while riding, so you want it submerged all the time)
Ok here is something for you. With the tps something is a bit bent where the bolt goes through. Maybe from the heat. I thought I would try turning manually, I will check it with the multimeter. Anyway I slowly turned it up, it started to idle better and rev mostly without a cough. Then I tightened it in that spot. Still getting a slower idle 1,000-1,100. Start it again and still playing up a bit. It must move when tightening because I loosened the bolt move it and running good again. I’ll try and find another tps. I’ll also take some video to show you. I think we are hopefully heading in the right direction
Double check the throttle body too, make sure the “threads” where the screw goes in to isn’t damaged otherwise , if it is , do a HELI-COIL mod (youtube “heli coil”)
Mine is efi. When cold it idles perfectly and revs normally/responsive. As it gradually warms up, the revs slowly drop until it gets to 1,000-1,100. That’s when it starts to play up. At least it doesn’t seem to stall now. Sometimes when I rev when the engine warms up, the engine will make like a weird clunky noise. I will check out the tps today as well.
hard to tell you without a video. And record it next time, go to where the source of the noise is (eg. if its the stator cover, go to the stator cover and try to record it there)
Or if its your Cam Chain tensioners, check them for noises or cam chain rattle etc.
Again, record and go to where the source of the noise is.Upload the video to OneDrive, GoogleDrive, DropBox etc and get a “public share link” to post it here on the forum.
A code won’t come up for certain parts that need a manual measurement. The service manual will usually detail which parts will give a code and some that need manual measurement.
Sprag Clutch = Age , wear and tear , or premature damage (if the last owner neglected the bike and was busy trying to start it 1000x a day, it could wear it down a lot faster) but you won’t know until you remove it off the flywheel.
Idling = Does it ever cut out when idling hot even at 1,100 rpm ? If not, could you recheck your throttle body TPS and possibly the lambda sensor using the service manual to match up any values within OEM spec ?
If we were to assume the basics ==> A carb bike that’s struggling to hold 1500 rpm would indicate blocked pilots or poor floats (EFI= Fuel pump or injectors)
or else
the idle adjuster knob needs increasing to 1500 rpm when hot (EFI= your ISCV unit should maintain idle when ride is not touching throttle tube but alas , EFI also means airbox sensors & throttle body sensors need checking too)
or else
We must check the entire ignition system both EFi & Carby => coils, caps, stator and CDI (EFi= ECU)
I believe you solved the ignition issues?
or else
If the rpm needle is going up and down in a sweeping fashion (1200 – 1800rpm), this carb bike would suggest its hunting for fuel or plugs are wanning => Replace plugs or check float height (For EFi = Fuel pump and injectors and/or ISCV unit + TPS)At this point, you have done more progress with it , so you should be happy it’s not dying as much ? We getting there. Welcome to EFi world! Carby sounds easier doesn’t it ? but EFI is more “snappy & responsive” on the throttle!
1 more test , “Coil TERMINAL pin + Coil Bolt Hole” ==> What is the resistance (less than 5 (five) ohms please) Then i will tell you if the coil is good.
If you order the stators from us, it may come sooner than 15 days but possibly! – I usually try to be as rapid as I can.
In that time, strip her and clean up the harness and get “harness tape” , wrap it twice to insulate it more , but i hope this keeps as much water and mud away from rotting the wires.
Believe me , I washed my bike yesterday and I was stupid to allow water inside the seat , the fuse box got a little wet, i dried it off and i lost 1 volt! = 1 volt!!!
So instead of 12v, i was at 11v, the starter motor would not crank. So i replaced the fuse again and re-cleaned the terminals , it started up good! – It is amazing that water or bad contacts can cause an easy voltage drop (higher resistance , so heat risk there too!) Any harness made after 2012 is SENSETIVE!
I had an 2008 GT carby for a while, it’s harness was 2x thick and said “GT250R” as the factory harness used on both carby 125 & 250 until 2008
If your 125R is 2016 , you would be extra careful with the harness as they are much thinner.
Since you have a 2006 bike, i hope your harness says “GT250R” in a white sticker near the battery area and you have a thicker one (i’d be jealous as they are very hard to get now and last for ages!) All 650GT after 2008 are EFi now, so oh well , fuel injection it is and extra zillion sensors to pay attention to!
Stay carby!
Pirellis , they are a bit too “hard” for my liking and tend to |___| square off easily after a while instead of mainting a good curvy tyre ( )
Hmmm, you can use 150/60 as that’s what Hyosung did on their GD250N Naked model but personally i tried it on the GT , i was not too keen on it. So if possible try 150/70 or 160/60
Is there no Michelins or Bridgestone Sport Wet tyres where you live ?
You could try “Dunlop Mutant” tyres as our member from USA , says they are the best “crossover” tyres he has used on the Hyosung Gt250 , so they should be OK on your GT125
No ht leads for bike in the shop. Any alternatives?
You mean these fella?
NGK Uprated HT Coil Spark Plug Cap/Covers (x2) – Hyosung GTR GT GV (Various Models)
I got your email. Did you recieve our reply ?
Regards
In short.
MICHELIN PILOT ROAD ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
My most , most , most , most , recommended tyre. I can’t recommend it enough!
I’ve tried many tyres over the years in UK on different bikes , hell , i vowed not to waste money again unless its michelin.,
But…. “BRIDGESTONE TOURING” tyres are also GOOD! I would consider them a #2 choice. Just make sure you get Bridgestone Tyres that have a lot of silica or rated for “WET GRIP”.
Sizes = 150/70 is more than enough, believe me. 160/60 is the max safe limit for the rear rim. (Do not put 160/70!)
Front = 120/60 is OK (same size as Gt650) but 110/70 is plenty.
if both switches are disconnected , then it will be short somewhere along the harness , but …. test again with the switches connected to be sure the light actually changes brightness again.
12BS “just about” narrowly fit the GV250 battery tray. GV250 battery tray is the same size as the GD-250. However , 9BS is more than sufficient. Infact, get the YUASA High Performance 9BS battery, other I have used the 9BS on the other Hyosungs without an issue.
I do know that 14BS is factory size for GT- bikes but they have more going on under the hood than the GD does .
Stator + Regulator together = on your basket , definitely will NOT trust using any old regulator on a new part as these 2 parts are married like chain & sprockets.
Caps = They seem OK? If they don’t spark, get NGK ones but if budget is a concern, then we have these ones that work.
We have 2 of them left:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256805062129Make sure you have dust caps!!!!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254136676637Spark Plugs = Go to halfords and get “Yellow CR8E” only , do not touch the “IX Blue Iridiums, they are “!#@” is all we can say.
When she runs , upgrade to the “LASER” ones you see on this bike forum.CDI unit = It should be OK, but it’s the last thing we need to replace right now. Just make sure the main bike harness has every connector / plug cleaned up with shiny pins. Use contact cleaner and dry over night. Then ONLY use “ACF50” (spray a tear drop / rain drop of that in every single plug on the bike) .
Good job on checking the actual ignition coils. What are their readings without the HT cap attached to them?
Regards
You have a sticky brake switch (or faulty one). It’s the switches on your hand or feet that trigger the brighter LED’s .
You’re in the UK with a GD250R , amazing. Such a RARE , RARE beautiful bike! Take care of it!
