♠️ M77
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Simon is correct on the coils too, early Hyosung EFi’s had identical coils to SV650 early models (because Mitsubishi Japan supplied both companies, Hyosung just put their own logo and part number)
TCTC brakes used on Hyosung were made specifically for Hyosung as far as i am aware and the Koreans used their own in-house brackets to make the mounts for them.
Also newer GV650 models had updated front calipers made by Hyosung and Kayaba made the forks with Hyosung mounts.
So “some” of the SV650 early models already robbed parts from the Hyosung but Hyosung was a “parts maker” for Suzuki at their R&D place in Japan. Hence engine similarities but not 100% the same. Ie. I could use the valves but you cant use the same air filters.
As simon said, rear masters are a case of mounting points for the GV650 itself. If you grab an older GSX bike, get their NISSIN Japan rear master cylinder and be prepared to drill a bigger hole to fit your foot-mount where the master cylinder sits.
Caliper – No need to replace it ,if you can just get stainless pistons for it ? Unless the caliper shell is beyond saving ?
There were times where Hyosung and Suzuki had the same SKU’s for a part but it did not mean they fitted the same. ie. front forks off the SV and GV are both Kayaba Japan but caliper mounting points are different. Suzuki had their own rim designs and brake discs (which influences a bit on how far up or apart the caliper can be away from the disc) (280 vs 330mm rotors etc)
Tokico is OEM to Kawasaki bikes.
You can use an EARLY ZX9 rear caliper on to the GV650 back caliper on if you drill and thread 1 extra bolt to the ZX9 mount. Been done before on some german forum , i can’t remember now but i saw that years ago.
Don’t use those Hyosung websites that scammed you, they all clones of 1 guy running it (yes “few people” do get lucky to even have orders delivered) !
If in doubt, email me!Hey Leo,
Got your service filter delivered?And are you able to connect a spark plug (MUST BE “CR8E” only , dont use other plugs like CR7 , CRB-EX9 etc.. like some twats do)
Then make sure battery is charged
Connect the spark plug to the HT cap (front engine)Disconnect the rear ignition cap too
Place the front spark plug to the “BOLT” on top of the valve covers ==> Do sparks come out when you try ?
Also do the same for the rear engine ?
Also , swap coils around
Here is the safest way to remove the airbox below to access the rear coil , take absolute care not to stress down the rubber intake pipes as they are more difficult to get and they split easy! (can’t stress it enough)
[Tutorial] How to swap Carb Main Jets – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Stop at step 5 on that link.
Let us know!
if anything looks suspicious under the hood, click “ADD MEDIA” on this forum reply box as you write and click “upload picture” to show us
If you get trouble uploading, just post it to “OneDrive/GoogleDrive/DropBox” and get a public share link so we can view this image.
Hyosung uses the same EFi clutch covers for all EFi models, but they come grey or black.
But the GV650 is “chrome” , and is thicker but should not affect anything as Hyosung did not change O-rings since 2006.
There is some guy from ukraine on ebay making GV650 gaskets , ask him to do just the “clutch only” , he may post one for you to try, since ukraine is a little closer to you than South Korea.
But yes it is a good idea to have the original o-ring gasket as future backup.
Good news, all fixed. Fitted new headlight relay and Switch assembly on RH handlebar, lights work and park light also working. Thanks for all your help, great to have it all sorted. Cheers Paul
Yay! ⭐
Stay safe now
Welcome 🙂
Share a picture of her and do you have any plans for it ?
30,00 miles is very good! Keep going 😉
The Europeans get all the lastest Hyosung models , so i am jealous!
Here in UK, we only have 2020 GV125-Bobber and GV300-S
I am still waiting for Hyosung to import GV650PC 2025 and GV250-DRA model 🙁
Hyosung left Australia (according to multiple reports on the forum) , I hope they did not leave the UK market lol – USA/Canada does not get any new models since 2018 which is crazy (USA/Canada did get RX125 / RT125D Hyosung but in very very small numbers)
I wish i could comment experience on GV125-X but we don’t have it yet in UK
For temp sensor , check the “brown wire” under the dash = use a meter to make sure the wire is not broken along the harness.
For Speed = Signal comes directly from speed sensor on the fork leg, so put your front wheel in the air , spin the wheel fast and see if it comes on?
Or
Remove the plug for speed sensor , check connections and clean contacts. Check the wire colour for speed sensor going to dashboard blue socket, use a meter to verify there is no breaks along the harness (signal loss?) or try another speed sensor.Fuel Gauge = If you have fuel , the bars will go up yes.
Does “Turn Left, Turn Right, Neutral , High-Beam” work ?
Describe loose?
Are you comfortable opening the right throttle switch first ? and see if there is any breaks or move the cable up a second notch inside the grip and try that?
Also the cable has an adjuster , adjust it with 2 spanners until you feel there is about 1-4mm pull before it bites the carb ?
Not unless previous owner fitted a cable that was too long for the bike. (Click “Add media” button when replying and insert a photo to this forum, so we can see it
or upload photo to a place like DropBox/OneDrive/Google Drive and post the “share link” to this forum)
Welcome Leo!
J&S , not been there for years. I usually visit the doncaster one.
Tap “Shop” at the top of the site and start with the essentials only:
- Oil filter , Air Filter , Spark plugs. Do a service on them.
- Must change (because they have a bad name) ==> OEM black caps for NGK ones and regulator ….. All other electrics should be fine as they don’t usually break down that much , exacept the odd brake switches needing a change (happens to any bike)
Use a YUASA battery that is YTX14BS (get it from Halfords) as they will be newer (some sellers online sell very old stock which is not good battery-wise!) - Chain if it has a 428 set , go to Startrights in Leeds and tell them we sent you. They will sort you out with a fresh chain kit (standard set)
If you wanted something more tried and true , here is a 520 set conversion, that page will explain it all.
Everything else is just a matter of your eyes (beauty is of beholder)
Don’t mess with the carbs UNLESS you know what you’re doing! if she runs and idles perfectly , then the ONLY things you can do for now is:
- Go to halfords and get ONLY “WYNNS FORMULA GOLD PETROL” , pour the whole thing in the tank. And ride.
This will clean your fuel lines, tank, carbs , your cylinders a little bit etc….
Do that once a month depending how many miles you do. - If you see “grey” colour fuel lines , Hyosung said replace them all because they are beyond the 4yr service limit (too old)
With this set here and also this set here
To make the engine last longer:
- EBC plates are good & trusted brand
- Get valve clearances done (or checked) , if you ain’t sure. Myself or Startright motorcycles will do it for you.
Hyosung says they should be checked or adjusted around every 4-6k mile - Stay under 11k revs (They don’t like redline for too long)
- GT250 or GV250 cooler is the #1 gift for the engine, it will really appreciate it. The 125 cooler is “tiny” , plus the 250 cooler is like a shield to stop dirt attacking the soft rubber intake pipes (most difficult part to get!) or rust up the carbs
- Make sure it has stainless exhaust pipes (Black Widow UK make them to this day)
- Michelin tyres are your #1 friend or alternative brand is Bridgestone tyres.
Avons & Shinkos are like suicide bricks!
I am digressing , hopefully i covered most bases and go ride! If you have other questions , ask away.
Stay away from sketchy websites (they have a lot of complaints on TrustPilot) they have “white & blue” backgrounds. If something is very urgent, go straight to Startright Motorcycles Leeds , they are the oldest hyo dealer in UK and i personally buy their stock also to fill some parts in this website-shop.
Definitely stay off Aliexpress too! Someone will tell you you can get cheaper plugs, even they sell fakes , as below: (some chinese sellers on ebay/amazon don’t care either)
https://www.ngkntk.com/newsroom/blog/emea/fake-or-not/What simon said , also remember the “right switch” controls the headlight coming on or not for that specific GTR (ones with a black rpm counter and black lcd glass)
(Newer EFi models are “always on” regardless of the switch state)If you hear a “click” from the relay, then power should be going down your headlights.
Check for 12v at the relay sockets.
Thanks Marcel, Appreciate the fair warning regarding fake spark plugs. I’ll ask at the local auto shop for these but to be honest they may be cheaper buying it through yourself. Additional query, changing to these laser versions is it required to change the spark plug covers too and regulator? Or is it just recommended? Just curious to know the benefits of just one component versus the whole kit. Thanks again,
In a nut shell:
- Copper – stock plug – Common and bike was made for it, but easier to foul up and it wanes sooner in terms of optimal sparking. it does not do well if the bike is very moody.
- Laser – Platinum plug (OEM to some Suzuki bikes as they shipped some older suzuki bikes with laser plugs) – Very good for winter (sparks sooner at the slightest fuel entry in to the cylinders, it handles heat a bit better as the plugs are buried deep inside the cylinder heads!, also VERY LONG lasting, I’ve not changed my own plugs for 2yrs! Hell I am that busy with everyone else , i try to keep my own toys as “low maintenance” as possible except for the odd valve clearance check, carb clean and oil service (air is K&N , so i don’t need to change filters every again but i just clean every 10-20,000 miles depending how dusty / messy the air is around us) Seaside air is more sandy! but i am digressing.Here is how to spot a fake from NGK’s own site:
https://www.ngkntk.com/newsroom/blog/emea/fake-or-not/Here is what they said in a nutshell , go where it says “Platinum Iridium – Types of spark plugs” below:
https://www.ngkntk.com/products/spark-plugs/NGK Caps = Consider them an absolute must have , not just for a marriage to the spark plug’s optimal spark but the “black OEM caps” crack a LOT! and sometimes sparks leak out of the HT cap and i saw it with my own eyes all to often now. Also NGK’s full rubber HT caps (not plastic ones!) are best, and they handle heat a lot better.
The coil itself should just be replaced if it is faulty, otherwise the stock coil Hyosung makes isn’t too bad honestly (better than the chinese clones) as its still made in Korea. Just give them a nice HT wire that’s like 7mm copper, if the factory HT wire is corroded.
Regulator = No one really keeps OEM regulators for good reason, fails too much. If someone has EFi Hyosung i always sell the Mosfet Japan ones, its too important (some ECU’s are just not easy to get hold of, if they get fried.) // A carby motor just blows its battery , stator , fries the harness or you see/smell burning at the side of your leg and you will feel the POP then you know its gone bad.
OEM values are 13.5v-15V carby motors // 14.5V constant for EFi (anything beyond 14.6v is asking for trouble)
Im struggling to remember what the 2 pin connector at the side goes to, it’s definitely not emissions stuff, I have a feeling it might be fuel gauge
@syco – that one has puzzled me too as usually the fuel gauge connector is near the battery.I’ve not come across a 2-pin connector near the front coil in tandem with the side-stand plug. His video shows it but Hyosung blanked it? I suppose it is a dummy plug? (why would they make a dummy plug is beyond me) – I do know US and AU bikes do come with some strange extra bits on them like “canisters” or “black boxes” mounted to the sides of the frame for some emissions control or restriction?
Laser is better. or keep using the stock CR8E
IX is overrated and to be honest some hyosungs just dont like “IX” tagged plugs.
Laser is just CR8E-Laser, beware though NGK plugs get faked a LOT. If in doubt, go get one at an actual car shop / bike shop not online. Youtube should have some clips denoting which ngks are fake and which are real.
At 3o seconds in:
The three plugs i see are for the main harnessThe headlights are connected the right way on that “mini pig-tail” harness. So it just needs to join the big harness on the bike.
The red bullet single wire , also matches the female side of the harness.3-pin plug = speed sensor (the flat one)
3 pin plug = lights (triangle shaped) => frame harness feeds it.
2 pin plug = Parking Light inside the top eye-ball of the bike.So in this case:
Verify that the Triangle 3-pIn plug and 2Pin plug have 12v coming out of them.
Remember = RIGHT SWITCH GEAR turns the Headlights ON or OFF (h1 and h3 bulbs)
The parking light (2 pin plug) is ALWAYS on regardless.
The LEFT switch gear will also control the headlights too (They work together with the right switch). Left Switch just toggles between Low or High Beam.Around 2:00 mark , you pulled out a 2 pin plug , now i am a little lost as i can’t remember where it connects to! – I would “assume” it is for either the airbox sensor or a diode along the harness but…the colour “black/yellow” at the front usually means ignition coil!
Check the wiring diagram for the ECU Connectors for that same “black/yellow” wire and where it goes? I have not seen that on the UK customer bikes i fix, so that’s puzzled me not unless , Hyosung has a funny habit of changing wire colours mid-cycle (they always do!)
Or it may be for the “EGR/AIS” (electric air valve) that takes air from airbox and dumps it to the cylinders near the exhaust pipes but i doubt it!
I can see the manual saying “BY” (Black/Yellow)” with no name to it , it must be left blank itentionally
Can you find a BY on the ECU side and follow the diagram to see where they end up?
I hope @syco (Simon) chimes in! 🧠 I’m having a weird brain fog at the moment
Agree with 10W-40(or 50), but just as important; change it at least once a year, remember also the filter. BTW… does the GV250 have the larger oil-cooler (similar to the GT’s?)
Yes we recommend it to use on all 125cc. Their coolers are too small. So 250 coolers are good. GT250/GV250 use the same big coolers.
Feeling rich?
It is too short , it will bottom out the bike likely. Needs to be around 320mm but spring may be too wide and will scrape the swingarm. Has to be Hyosung YSS (it is much slimmer)
Depending on your device, upload a photo to OneDrive / GoogleDrive / DropBox and get a public share link. Paste the link here so we can see it.
I will redesign the site later the year to make it easier to attach photos on your reply
Source just means “where is the photo” , in this case if i am on the phone , i will navigate to the phone’s camera folder/gallery and select it. The site will pull the image in to the post.
Regards
Can you upload a picture please using the “Add Media” button , as you reply above the white text box ?
Try not to be too close as I would like to see where you’re grabbing it from. I myself or Simon will likely respond to what it is for.
Hi Marcel, do you have some spareparts from GT650s COMET 2007 ? Left handle bar broken and feetrest plate as well
Responded to your messenger request 👍
