♠️ M77
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Great find!!!!!
Definitely valuable , thanks for sharing as i missed this one when i was uploading so many 650 manuals.
I kept this for myself too incase my old brain farts!
Is there any chance the bronze rods have any play in them if you could split them up ? as the gold bits may be coming from their needle bearings?
And is there any “play marks” in the piston skirts or the cylinder walls to suggest the pistons shook a little bit? I would look for anything suspicious that’s gold/bronze coloured including the oil pump itself internally?
Keep us posted , sorru to hear about it but well done for stripping it down , some people ride until it blows up!
stay under the redline if you can lol , above 10k rpm you risk valve float and valve sucked / hitting a piston eventually 😉
no need , use stainless hex bolt (13mm spanner) and use NYLOCK nuts on the other side. All my years of riding bikes , the nylocks never gave me issues on the sprocket hubs.
If you change rear sprockets later, replace the nylock nuts again (preventative measure) that wheel will expect everything around it to be firm as a rough riding will just shake things loose if not careful.
Factory GT bikes (whatever size) never came with locking metal tabs, I always see them on customer GV bikes instead.
Thanks will get some more pics done when I get some time to tidy her up a bit 😄 And oops it didn’t look like it posted so I did it again that’s why it’s 3 posts 😂 Street for now but thinking I might get a spare set of wheels with off road tyres, found the combi tyres aren’t for me All the new parts from the shop are working great thank you it’s amazing the difference working electrics make haha
Can’t remember what i sent you at this rate haha, if it helps the shop, feel free to leave a review on the product page itself 😉
I had combi tyres on my GT Naked , it felt weird on smooth roads, very weird until i got on the motorways to do 70+ , it leveled off , but slow riding feels like i was floating on brick 1920s roads , can’t describe it. I said yup! Michelin Anakees are definitely for rough terrains!
Hyosung uses a little bit of loctite-blue on their rotor bolts indeed.
Does your hub still have the O-Ring around it, there is a big O-Ring on the hub , this o-ring is not too important but it would be good to have it as an extra defence.
If the wheel is 100% dry ==> Remove brake disc.
And place a cardboard or clean carpet there, put the brake side of the wheel facing the floor. Now , cover the top tub with bubble wrap or cloth if it fully dry (!) , you can remove your shoes , step on it in to the wheel hub, you will feel a rough click in to place.
2nd if the wheel goes back in the frame ==> The spacers and rear axle bolt will squeeze it in for extra firmness , then spin the wheel to make sure it is ok
Others will be more cautious to use a rubber mallet (a big one) and carefully whack the hub inside the wheel (instead of stepping on it barefooted with the top covered/protected)
Like the gold colour though!
Really liking them blue bits on the bike 😉 I want more!
Glad to hear the bike is still doing well, I notice you have street tyres , so it will stay as an SM ? or will it ever go off-road ?
Go ride though! Summer is nearly over 😭
Sorry , had to approve them manual. I will fix the uploader soon so it doesn’t always need to flag my attention due to too many images (which is a good thing, we love pictures!)
Get a threaded stud welded in there or try “JB WELD METAL” if you want to try yourself , it is possible to rescue it that way too. Now that side of the inlet just needs a nut!
If not ask mobile welder to have a look , and it should still be cheaper than a full engine , i hope!
The throttle bodies have air lines coming from the ISCV unit , it is possible to measure how much air is being drawn on full throttle / half-throttle , or switch of the bike with throttle closed , it is possible to measure if the throttle butterflies are fully shut.
Also if you take off throttle bodies off and take sensors off , then pour a little bit of oil down there, and see if the butterfly leaks out on the other side ? = this isn’t fool proof, so it is just an idea! = I did this on a row of carbs for Kawasaki ZZR , because i had to be sure all butterflies were equally opening and closing so each cylinder gets the same air flow.
Do you have 100w bulbs or incorrect bulbs by any chance?
Also unplug the regulator and see if its the same?
What ECU does it have ? And make sure ecu is unplugged until it is sorted. Incase you have a spike or short somewhere that could fry the ecu. It is very sensetive to any current / voltage hikes
Oh no, 😭
I could supply a spare motor? But have to email me directly as its not on ebay yet.And do you get any errors please uploading images? Anything?
I want to try fix any bugs today
Use imgur website temporarily and copy BB Codes next to each picture
The forum will translate BB codes to pictures here quick
Wish i could see the damage on yours. It has to be possible to save it.
He can’t even tell me what the compression level is in this engine, which has been removed from the motorcycle since May and has been sitting untouched.
Hmmm, i would consider this as a gamble purchase. If you can’t find individual engine parts like cylinder valve head for cheaper, then it is possible you may 50/50 restore this one or just buy to take parts from it and the rest of it is just future spares.
Replace the IAP sensor and check the ISCV unit (idle speed controller valve) , especially stripping the intake system slowly to replace any damaged o-rings (heat vs age) , this may not help with potential air leaks, so it is worth checking.
Hyosung uses one or 2 sensors , so if yours was blanked, don’t panic, it was Hyosung themselves who felt the need that this “particular” bike needs only 1 sensor (just to check air temps in the intake system)
Also , sounds frustrating but check the service manual again to see if you can test other parts with a meter such as coil, caps, and use contact cleaner to clean every socket/plug you can find.
NO LIQUIDS on the ECU = Air Dry only! – If something happens to the ECU, you’re in hell as it’s not made anymore. So absolute care should be emphasized here. Even though it is a DELPHi ECU which can still be found in the 2nd hand market such as eBay USA , get a spare ECU and see if poblems are still the same?
The ECU is the last thing to worry about as DELPHI ECU is a little better than previous generation GTs that had very chaotic DAEWOO ECU’s but it is worth having a spare!
What simon said and try to show us a picture of what is going on, it really helps.
I have the opportunity to purchase the entire engine for parts, but the question arises: since the seller insists that the bearing is damaged, is it worth buying?
The cost of the entire engine is approximately £244.
At that price , if he can be sure other parts are not damaged and the compression was good, then you can rebuild that engine using new bearings in this case or use it to salvage parts to your main one.
I feel like i have to send you some spare engine parts at this time, do you think you have a local source to grab cylinder heads (doesn’t matter condition of valves) because you can re-use your old ones and maybe spare used pistons & spare cylinders , at least this time, you can make a build for one last time that should cross the 125 psi mark (not ideal but it is survivable for a good while , just don’t go racing!)
I am sorry about the stripped spark plugs but i have a SUSPICION that you may have been sold fake NGK’s , oh yes , the most faked plug on the planet , so unless you got it from a direct distributor that NGK Japan knows, then that’s strange! – That has never ever happened on my side, i have probably touched maybe 500+ spark plugs from my bikes and fixing customer bikes and even old cars i owned in the past , that just never happens. I can excuse the plug breaking if it was covered in rust and vehicle was dumped in the river etc.
Too much current from that box will fry everything and it will no longer turn on from a battery again. (Too much amps)
So if the starter won’t spin for the battery on its own, get a new one. And try again.
If that fails , we should assume the starter motor is toast. Then at this point, strip rest of the bike until you find the strongest place you found burn smells.
The bike just cuts out on me while I’m riding it’s like the bike can’t find the fuel like the injectors or the fuel filter is clogged so I need to get a new fuel filter but what do they look like and where can I get one? I need to find one asap
There isn’t a public website that sells those abroad , so I will need pictures of the injectors so i can use the Hyosung part numbers printed on them and I will find them via trade. If you have the fuel pump out, send us pictures of it and I will try to find it through trade.
Also you did not tell us if you checked you ISCV yet from the topic link above ^ ? So i don’t have a proper answer until you’re sure the intake side (air) of things is good.
Email me , as i may know how i can get it through trade supply chain abroad
In the meantime, also check your ISCV unit using this topic below:
it may not be idling issues but that ISCV checkup is also an excuse to check the overall intake system.
Also , post a picture of your spark plugs so we can see if the side threads are burnt/oily etc and the middle of the spark plugs (to tell if air issue or electrical etc)
Check your ignition coils too. It is not uncomon to change coils especially the rear engine coil but worth a check and want to make sure the rains / water did not cause they to start acting funny in the past, if in doubt get new coils.
Keep the NGK caps, that was a good job!
You will likely need longer lines , the higher the bars go up to be fair. I ran in to this with my previous donor GVs , had to manually measure the stock line + extra distance needed , then order specific length brake cable for it.
Bigger issues may also lie with electrics as i know the switch gears are generally short and stop at the front of the fuel tank, so you will need 6 pin or 9 pin female and male connectors , then get some wires in different colours
Make an extension that joins “original switch gear” === extension here === bike harness , this is better than splicing and cutting up the original parts incase you change your mind and revert back to the stock OEM setup
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Great find!!!!!
Definitely valuable , thanks for sharing as i missed this one when i was uploading so many 650 manuals.
I kept this for myself too incase my old brain farts!
Is there any chance the bronze rods have any play in them if you could split them up ? as the gold bits may be coming from their needle bearings?
And is there any “play marks” in the piston skirts or the cylinder walls to suggest the pistons shook a little bit? I would look for anything suspicious that’s gold/bronze coloured including the oil pump itself internally?
Keep us posted , sorru to hear about it but well done for stripping it down , some people ride until it blows up!
stay under the redline if you can lol , above 10k rpm you risk valve float and valve sucked / hitting a piston eventually 😉
no need , use stainless hex bolt (13mm spanner) and use NYLOCK nuts on the other side. All my years of riding bikes , the nylocks never gave me issues on the sprocket hubs.
If you change rear sprockets later, replace the nylock nuts again (preventative measure) that wheel will expect everything around it to be firm as a rough riding will just shake things loose if not careful.
Factory GT bikes (whatever size) never came with locking metal tabs, I always see them on customer GV bikes instead.
Thanks will get some more pics done when I get some time to tidy her up a bit 😄 And oops it didn’t look like it posted so I did it again that’s why it’s 3 posts 😂 Street for now but thinking I might get a spare set of wheels with off road tyres, found the combi tyres aren’t for me All the new parts from the shop are working great thank you it’s amazing the difference working electrics make haha
Can’t remember what i sent you at this rate haha, if it helps the shop, feel free to leave a review on the product page itself 😉
I had combi tyres on my GT Naked , it felt weird on smooth roads, very weird until i got on the motorways to do 70+ , it leveled off , but slow riding feels like i was floating on brick 1920s roads , can’t describe it. I said yup! Michelin Anakees are definitely for rough terrains!
Hyosung uses a little bit of loctite-blue on their rotor bolts indeed.
Does your hub still have the O-Ring around it, there is a big O-Ring on the hub , this o-ring is not too important but it would be good to have it as an extra defence.
If the wheel is 100% dry ==> Remove brake disc.
And place a cardboard or clean carpet there, put the brake side of the wheel facing the floor. Now , cover the top tub with bubble wrap or cloth if it fully dry (!) , you can remove your shoes , step on it in to the wheel hub, you will feel a rough click in to place.
2nd if the wheel goes back in the frame ==> The spacers and rear axle bolt will squeeze it in for extra firmness , then spin the wheel to make sure it is ok
Others will be more cautious to use a rubber mallet (a big one) and carefully whack the hub inside the wheel (instead of stepping on it barefooted with the top covered/protected)
Like the gold colour though!
Really liking them blue bits on the bike 😉 I want more!
Glad to hear the bike is still doing well, I notice you have street tyres , so it will stay as an SM ? or will it ever go off-road ?
Go ride though! Summer is nearly over 😭
Sorry , had to approve them manual. I will fix the uploader soon so it doesn’t always need to flag my attention due to too many images (which is a good thing, we love pictures!)
Get a threaded stud welded in there or try “JB WELD METAL” if you want to try yourself , it is possible to rescue it that way too. Now that side of the inlet just needs a nut!
If not ask mobile welder to have a look , and it should still be cheaper than a full engine , i hope!
The throttle bodies have air lines coming from the ISCV unit , it is possible to measure how much air is being drawn on full throttle / half-throttle , or switch of the bike with throttle closed , it is possible to measure if the throttle butterflies are fully shut.
Also if you take off throttle bodies off and take sensors off , then pour a little bit of oil down there, and see if the butterfly leaks out on the other side ? = this isn’t fool proof, so it is just an idea! = I did this on a row of carbs for Kawasaki ZZR , because i had to be sure all butterflies were equally opening and closing so each cylinder gets the same air flow.
Do you have 100w bulbs or incorrect bulbs by any chance?
Also unplug the regulator and see if its the same?
What ECU does it have ? And make sure ecu is unplugged until it is sorted. Incase you have a spike or short somewhere that could fry the ecu. It is very sensetive to any current / voltage hikes
Oh no, 😭
I could supply a spare motor? But have to email me directly as its not on ebay yet.And do you get any errors please uploading images? Anything?
I want to try fix any bugs today
Use imgur website temporarily and copy BB Codes next to each picture
The forum will translate BB codes to pictures here quick
Wish i could see the damage on yours. It has to be possible to save it.
He can’t even tell me what the compression level is in this engine, which has been removed from the motorcycle since May and has been sitting untouched.
Hmmm, i would consider this as a gamble purchase. If you can’t find individual engine parts like cylinder valve head for cheaper, then it is possible you may 50/50 restore this one or just buy to take parts from it and the rest of it is just future spares.
Replace the IAP sensor and check the ISCV unit (idle speed controller valve) , especially stripping the intake system slowly to replace any damaged o-rings (heat vs age) , this may not help with potential air leaks, so it is worth checking.
Hyosung uses one or 2 sensors , so if yours was blanked, don’t panic, it was Hyosung themselves who felt the need that this “particular” bike needs only 1 sensor (just to check air temps in the intake system)
Also , sounds frustrating but check the service manual again to see if you can test other parts with a meter such as coil, caps, and use contact cleaner to clean every socket/plug you can find.
NO LIQUIDS on the ECU = Air Dry only! – If something happens to the ECU, you’re in hell as it’s not made anymore. So absolute care should be emphasized here. Even though it is a DELPHi ECU which can still be found in the 2nd hand market such as eBay USA , get a spare ECU and see if poblems are still the same?
The ECU is the last thing to worry about as DELPHI ECU is a little better than previous generation GTs that had very chaotic DAEWOO ECU’s but it is worth having a spare!
What simon said and try to show us a picture of what is going on, it really helps.
I have the opportunity to purchase the entire engine for parts, but the question arises: since the seller insists that the bearing is damaged, is it worth buying?
The cost of the entire engine is approximately £244.
At that price , if he can be sure other parts are not damaged and the compression was good, then you can rebuild that engine using new bearings in this case or use it to salvage parts to your main one.
I feel like i have to send you some spare engine parts at this time, do you think you have a local source to grab cylinder heads (doesn’t matter condition of valves) because you can re-use your old ones and maybe spare used pistons & spare cylinders , at least this time, you can make a build for one last time that should cross the 125 psi mark (not ideal but it is survivable for a good while , just don’t go racing!)
I am sorry about the stripped spark plugs but i have a SUSPICION that you may have been sold fake NGK’s , oh yes , the most faked plug on the planet , so unless you got it from a direct distributor that NGK Japan knows, then that’s strange! – That has never ever happened on my side, i have probably touched maybe 500+ spark plugs from my bikes and fixing customer bikes and even old cars i owned in the past , that just never happens. I can excuse the plug breaking if it was covered in rust and vehicle was dumped in the river etc.
Too much current from that box will fry everything and it will no longer turn on from a battery again. (Too much amps)
So if the starter won’t spin for the battery on its own, get a new one. And try again.
If that fails , we should assume the starter motor is toast. Then at this point, strip rest of the bike until you find the strongest place you found burn smells.
The bike just cuts out on me while I’m riding it’s like the bike can’t find the fuel like the injectors or the fuel filter is clogged so I need to get a new fuel filter but what do they look like and where can I get one? I need to find one asap
There isn’t a public website that sells those abroad , so I will need pictures of the injectors so i can use the Hyosung part numbers printed on them and I will find them via trade. If you have the fuel pump out, send us pictures of it and I will try to find it through trade.
Also you did not tell us if you checked you ISCV yet from the topic link above ^ ? So i don’t have a proper answer until you’re sure the intake side (air) of things is good.
Email me , as i may know how i can get it through trade supply chain abroad
In the meantime, also check your ISCV unit using this topic below:
it may not be idling issues but that ISCV checkup is also an excuse to check the overall intake system.
Also , post a picture of your spark plugs so we can see if the side threads are burnt/oily etc and the middle of the spark plugs (to tell if air issue or electrical etc)
Check your ignition coils too. It is not uncomon to change coils especially the rear engine coil but worth a check and want to make sure the rains / water did not cause they to start acting funny in the past, if in doubt get new coils.
Keep the NGK caps, that was a good job!
You will likely need longer lines , the higher the bars go up to be fair. I ran in to this with my previous donor GVs , had to manually measure the stock line + extra distance needed , then order specific length brake cable for it.
Bigger issues may also lie with electrics as i know the switch gears are generally short and stop at the front of the fuel tank, so you will need 6 pin or 9 pin female and male connectors , then get some wires in different colours
Make an extension that joins “original switch gear” === extension here === bike harness , this is better than splicing and cutting up the original parts incase you change your mind and revert back to the stock OEM setup