♠️ M77
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Download the 250 EFi service manual onthe forum , then go to where it says error codes = Yours is C18 , it will tell you how to diagnose it the sensor
C18 = Intake air pressure sensor (Engine 2) (Likely the sensor on the throttle body for the rear engine)
No didn’t work
Check the GT650R EFi manuals on the forum, it will show pictures how to do it better than i could explain on text.
Starter motor is held by 2 bolts on its body near the cable. And just carefully pull it out because it has an O-Ring seal near the spinning teeth
Drain oil 1st.
The plug under the seat is a very small 2-pin one.
or Switch Key On/Off 3x quickly and WAIT….
Red light will flash, count the blinks and pauses , it is telling you a code.
Eg…..
10 blinks _pause_ 2 blinks _ pause 1 blink
(Then it repeats the same sequence) ==== This could example mean Injector #1 (Front) is faulty or has issue. with ECU
Sometimes you get
10-2-1
10-5-8Those 2 means Injector Fault and Side Stand Switch fault (2 different sequences = 2 different issues happening) , just an example!
The seat has a BLACK SHROUD with 2 plugs 4-pin and 2 pin
You have connected something to the 2-pin plug what is it ? It should be empty
The black-shroud hiding those 4pin & 2pin plugs is for diagnostics only.
You can remove the carbs and get someone to do an ultrasonic clean. Then slowly put the parts together , at least this will be a good learning curve for you , not to trust those mechanics again.
Here in UK 80% of garages do not want to touch Hyosung bikes (but it uses Japan carbs like Suzuki does) , it does not make sense lol.
I have this feeling it’s a connection or pipe as last time it stopped I had had my hand in there testing the thermostat.
Sounds like that’s the area there that’s suspect , like you said could be connectors causing the ECU to killswitch the bike off.
Hi Marcel,
Sorry for the late reply – it’s been a busy week!
I had a look at the link you sent, but unfortunately, that item doesn’t ship to Ireland from the UK.
Before ordering a similar one that does deliver to Ireland, I got in touch with Hyosung Customer Care. They suggested that using a Top Yoke from a GD250N would be a great way to raise the handlebars, especially since I’m not too confident with drills. It’s around €90, and for a newbie like me, it seems like a solid deal to get proper handlebar risers from Hyosung directly.
What do you think – does that sound like a good idea?
Thanks!
What website is that , as you have to becareful certain websites will take your cash and run.
As for eBay , that’s weird. That’s my own listing, it should say “global shipping” on it ? handled by ebay themselves , if not message me on ebay and i will edit the listing.
Cobra just simply drilled the holes, (same as what Korea does on GT and GTR bikes , as they share the same yoke.
GD-N is probably pre-drilled as they need to use taller bars anyway and rise the rider to an upright position.
Also , just to be extra sure, when the stator cover is removed , get a big 17mm or 19mm socket , and turn the flywheel anti-clockwise, slowly, this will make sure the engine is not jammed (maybe bent valve or bad timings due to cam chain error , tensioner error or valve hitting piston due to wrong timing)
Drain oil (just incase it is hydrolocked with fuel) (Sometimes there is fuel in the oil because the carbs have jammed open and is sending fuel in to pistons even if bike is off.
When the oil is drained, remove the stator cover ==> Look behind and see if there is damage to the flywheel-sprocket.
Also spin the Flywheel-Sprocket , it must spin ONE-WAY , and FREEZE if you spin the other way (it is a One-Way hub) , if it spins both ways or refuses to spin in any direction,m you may have a damaged “starter clutch” which is that one-way hub sitting behind the flywheel.
It is a early 2000s GTR , so it is best to check behind the flywheel.
Also , remove the stater motor , remove the battery.
Connect + terminal to starter motor wire.
Then connect (negative – minus) to starter body , be safe as sparks will come out! –> does it spin healthy ? – This is you checking starter motor is good too.
You may possibly needed to replace the starter-solenoid as your final puzzle . DO this after checking all the above ^^^ first.
Lambda could need checking but if its idling then dying down, its like if i have a carb version, the bike would idle and die suggesting the float bowls of the carb have gone empty , tank tap and vacuum pump have locked (no extra fuel coming out) or floats have jammed.
In the case of EFi, idling then dying , the worst offender may be the trio of pump , injectors and ECU itself. I hope to be wrong as i haven’t gathered info about your situation as of yet.
If it was idling on the drive , can you start it today , go down the street and come back (don’t go to far incase it cuts and you have to push it back)
Would it start right away after cutting out ?
The Honda Rebel-carbs must stay horisontal….
Alas that’s the downside!
Hey Marcel My bikes been doing the same thing but when I hit the strat button I can hear my relay click
It would be handy if you could make a new topic of your own so you can write as much as you and we may have a different answer based on your bike situation.
Ie, Member 1 may have a jammed flywheel and another member will have a damaged starter motor , so 2 different replies are needed.
I will make a separate thread to keep you informed of my progress if you like? Thanks and God Bless!
Sounds great, we all love a progress journal , even some are just lurking around (guests) but we have hundreds & hundreds of people visiting the site everyday.
This one , will fit , super cheap because it is slightly frayed as you look at the close pics but use these as a temporary measure:~
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256596740409
If not, it is possible i can acquire another EFi throttle cable locally here in UK and export it to you , but send me an email about it (“Contact” at the bottom of the site)
Generally i don’t mention other sources online because you will find maybe 5-10 Hyosung websites all using the same design, same background, they are clones with a lot of angry customers due to scammy behavior and members on this forum have also reported the same, so be wise when shopping around too.
To swap to the round headlights , yes you can , you have more chance here.
Fire up ebay, and get these (without skipping either, as they are all required)
- Nosecone Metal Cage for 2007-2010 models
- Fairings (Nose cone panels , older ones with brawny looks airvents onthe side)
- 2007-2009 headlight unit
- 2005-2009 fairing brackets (because the 2007 nose cone uses “S” shape yellow clips to mount the nose cone fairings to your ENGINE panels)
- Bottom Chin Panel (under the headlight, looks like a boomerang)
- Dash Surround Panel (needed!)
- Dash Mount (2005-2009)
- Screen ofcourse.
Now you just go have fun painting it all, i
This could workout being the quickest way to ago about things.
Oh yes , don’t forget (not critical but completes the look)
- Air Vent (left and right side)
- Infill Panel (mini triangle for the right side of the nose cone only , aka “inspection panel”)
Otherwise , 2016 “front end” is strictly for 2016 only – you can’t mix and match. You either want the older look (2005-2009) or the newer 2016 look
Send me an email (click “CONTACT” at the bottom of this website) , we will send you any part your carb requires or browse the HyoRiders Shop.
Also, the BDS26 is a GOOD carb and its still a japanese carb, you will need to rebuild it , as sometimes previous owners may have left the bike standing for too long (years) and no love was given to it. So it makes sense to rebuild it, even replacing the floats help.
Now, remove the fuel hose from your TANK , does fuel come out ? == Replace the tap. If engine turns off , the tank tap must turn off automatically, this is the 1st defence it stopping fuel overflowing your carb float needles.
If you connect the tank tap to the PUMP on the frame ==== Turn engine off , point the fuel pump in a bucket , does fuel come out ? = Replace the pump too! This is 2nd defence.
Also damaged taps / pumps will leak fuel 100% through their Vacuum lines too. (Their diaphragms have burst causing fuel to leak on both ends. etc)
For sales enquiries , it is best to do it privately via email , not on a public forum due to sensitive information being exchanged.
Here is the link (it’s always at the bottom of the site):
But yes, complete means “Postman is on the way to you”
Topic closed.
Just like me, I do like to plod along and enjoy the scenery as much as i can , when i passed my test i thought motorways were fun but now many years later, i always avoid them if possible, sure back roads take extra 20 mins of your time but less idiots on it and you’re not pressured to be in top speed all the time 🙂
Welcome and enjoy your ride every chance you get!
Hey, don’t panic.
This one is for the older carb models but the principle is the same ….
How to adjust clutch cable – Hyosung GV125C GT125R GT250 GV250
Also , let us know if you think the cable is stretched out , then possibly may need a new cable or is there a chance the “washer” went missing ?
See belowIt says it is for older models , but ignore that, look at the “order of plates” and “bearing , washer” etc.
[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
If not, you could need a new thrust bearing possibly? Or new plates if the old ones have thinned out?
