♠️ M77
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Click the “Add Media” botton that is on top of the white reply box as you are typing and please let know if you get any errors ? It should work fine.
Upgrades, take a look at the shop (click shop) at the top of the site and each product has about 2 pages long of descriptions on each, some customer pictures and their reviews so you get an idea of their real world experiences with the,
Aftermarket filter = no option. Only stock and it is more than enough to be used on the 400cc , so don’t worry about air restriction on the GV250cc . In fact the bike will hate and force itself to run badly if you dared put things like “cone filters” / “pod filters”.
Welcome , good to have you 🙂
Upload a picture of your ride if you want , just click the “Add Media” button on the reply box 🙂
hi, thanks. will do those checks. I tend to be a bit of a worrier as i’m certainly not a mechanic. it was just on my mind that either the previous owner my have thrashed the engine or that I may not be running the bike in properly. but as I said I do tend to worry and overthink things. lol thanks again
The worry will be appreciated by your iron maiden , I always act OCD around my bikes , don’t be like me who changes oil every 1000 miles (£40 for a Motul 300V race oil or £600-1000 for new engine? I’d rather the oil!)
Stay safe
That’s crazy, every GV i’ve laid hands on both older and newer ones including customer bikes, always had a screw at the back to remove the orange lense cover off.
I suspect you have an aftermarket version ? (unless you’re the only owner and the bike has never had its indicators changed?
Or try a guitar pick to pry it open , but i warn you, if it won’t budge, don’t force it as it will snap the lens of! (unless its an aftermarket version that was glued in after they fitted a bulb inside.)
or try to “unscrew” the cap and see. (Could be a newer twist & lock type)
Look at the snap shot below, this is the real assembly of the tail light unit and bulb is 10 watts (max!!)
Beautiful colour!
I hope you get better sir and still got that fuel inside your soul for more rides as the weather is lovely now.If you put it on Gumtree or eBay , paste the link here so people can message you privately if need be.
The service manual from the GT650 section has the information on seals and tools used to remove valves. You would measure your old ones if local dealer isn’t there?
GT250 uses the 650cc seals. Can’t remember the size of my head, as its not something i rarely check to be fair.
Hope I get this bike running and insured before summer ends.
That’s the plan!
Jets = Hold them in the air , look towards the sky and see if the holes look clear to you then the jets are OK. Probably meant the carb needed extra air inside its passages.
Check float height while at it and make adjustments as this topic below has an image of it
Actually also, order new floats (saves you messing around) and get a new gasket kit (which has new float seats) , essentially the bottom end of the carb is now all new and you don’t have to go there again.
Just make sure no white stuff goes to the carb again , it should always be clear unless you can see bits of crud in the filter (then the filter is doing its job trapping the dirt) , since you have bigger pipes => by that logic , if the pump & tap are good, then fuel should be gushing down hard towards the carb quickly (but will take a few cranks with throttle shut to fill up that filter.
If the filter is full or 50% full, then assume the carb bowls are fully and floats have switched off the seats , the bike can get started.
Get a can of yellow Easy start (2 cans even)
Intake Bolts = Ill send you free. Just send an email or put it in the order notes “Include manifold bolts” , and i may even send a couple extra bolts for the carb if it needs it etc.. No charge.
It should be fine if a vibration that occurs in sync with the engine’s vtwin growl
But a follow-up question?
- Does it vibrate during idling ? (if its cold and warming up, place your hand on the clutch cover and confirm?
- Also, when its HOT –> Hold clutch in and hold clutch out –> Does it change ?
Also, have someone with you for this last test. Ask them to rev the bike in neutral to about 5-6k revs max
Do you feel any vibrations coming from either the left side bottom (Stator/Flywheel) or right side bottom (clutch drum spinning)
If its had its 1st service , Hyosung mandates that the dealer / mechanic opens the top covers to check clearances (valve clearances) as this is crucial for it and also if they can open the clutch cover to check the health of the clutch plates and its Thrust Bearing (if the Thrust Bearing was funny for whatever reason, it would change how the clutch works or changing gears through the clutch may induce some vibration instead of a smooth transition to the next gear)
As you have already experienced riding bikes before the Hyosung, you could make an educated guess/judgement if the clutch feels smooth enough to switch between gears without some kind of vibration or clunking.
I can tell you, if i put a nice exhaust on my GT bike , she roars , moans and shakes but all healthy for her nontheless.
(Would not advice putting rubbish exhausts on the GV as it WILL run slower and the noise it makes for a good headache on a long ride!)If one was to make the GV a little louder, I would just repaint the exhaust to some kind of glossy vht colour then drill the exit hole to a bigger hole, so it makes a growl but enough air stays in the exhaust not to loose power in top gear. I am digressing though
Keep us posted!
Hello,
I don’t know anyone down there personally but…. I have a trusted business partner who works on hyosungs and makes orders on our site. Send a message to “PASS-BIKE UK” and ask for Caroline. They may not be where you are but I suspect they will arrange with you to get the bike collected and sort it out for you.
If not, this forum is open to diagnosing any potential issues the bike has. Just make a new topic again with that specific issue.
Also browse the forum’s “Manuals” section and get your GV650 service manual, it will detail how to troubleshoot the bike and get error codes or FI light sequences (it will flash a certain number of times to indicate a code) and it details clutch install.
Hope this reply helps
Probably 4-5mm thick to be honest but measure your old pipes to be sure.
Was the “Add Media” button not working on the forum ?
Also, in regards to the bolt stuck there…
- Hairdryer ==> blow the intake hole on cold setting or compressed air. Even a small rock dust will grind your piston rings = compression loss or burning oil later.
- Then plug that hole before doing repairs
I suspect a dremel should do it or weld a nut on to it?
If not, drill through it , and use Heli-coil kit to rethread it.
Carb unit =
- That hole in yellow circle means you need a hose attached there and also in the MIDDLE of the carb —> join up with a T-piece —> 1 long hose to the road, this is overflow/breather pipe. If the bike fell on the side where the coils are and fuel will come out of there 100% , if the hose is missing and coils get faulty (arc-ing / sparks escape, its an instant fire!!!)
Glad you noticed that!
- Cylinder Heads = Find a way to remove as much crud as possible until its very smooth (even attach a polish ball to a drill to smooth out the surface) then get new o-rings , you can’t trust those ones anymore.
Glad you’re OK, it is never fun getting involved with a cager. I’ve been there many times and i can definitely say to say “Stay Vigilant All Times!” and enjoy the ride.
The upgrades for the GV250 really depends what you want to do with it ?
Visually = Beauty is of the beholder! Some people have done chop-shop mods to make the back end look more like a chopper/dragster which is all custom work in itself.
Under the hood = Beefing up the electrical system and the clutch , plus a good X-ring chain set should set you up for those long journeys without any hiccups!
Fuel = Try to use RON97-RON99 fuel if you can (Less ethanol is better) here in UK we have E5 fuel which GOV UK says it is around 5% ethanol mix and advised E10 (10%+ ethanol) isn’t good for carb bikes. I don’t know what the USA has as i imagine fuel can vary from state to state.
By the time I finished typing the previous message, the add media tab was gone and it isn’t in place for this message either. If the hose piece fails again due to heat from the exhaust, I will try blocking the pipe and see if it causes any problems. I’m still leaning towards the floorboard heat to get rid of moisture or frost.
I will investigate it , sorry for the hassle!
Remove exhaust , and try some kind of “car aluminium heatshield foil ” and stick it on the bike itself , so that any heat from exhaust gets deflected away from it ?
I logged in as a normal users (non-admin, i was able to see the button) , I will test further in the weak to make sure there isn’t some bug.
I saw the pictures , I can respond here just to make it easier to stay on topic. The email will change in the near future that’s why.
Does the exhaust rattle or feel loose at all ? What would happen if someone was to cut the middle of the exhaust off and just put a straight pipe that goes to the giant muffler at the back, least there is less pipe work to deal with
I don’t know about your state laws , but it is possible the engine has an extra pipe from the air intake box going to the engine or the exhaust as part of “emissions control” or fake emissions if you will. (just extra air being sucked from the airbox and recycled out of the exhaust so it appears the exhaust is burning cleaner “so to speak”)
Having the airbox fitted makes it easier to run in fairness, hence these carbs never ran right when people started putting pod filters on them.
If the bike is air staved, the plugs would be very sooty or wet-like texture to it but it can also mean weaker ignition parts (weak sparking system) in tandem
Shed/Garage doesn’t affect anything unless its really windy outside you gotta work inside! but keep the doors open though, as you don’t want to be choking on that gas out of the exhaust.
At this point , I would try to get jets (pilots and mains) and make sure both carbs use SIZE 15 mains.
Then Rear 92.5 and front 90 for the mains
Mixture screws, start at a 3 full turns out each and leave it there as that’s close enough to OEM settings
If it runs worse, then do 2,5 full turns out each max.
Air blast the carbs again for one last time.I would also be suspicious of the intake pipes for their o-rings or even the airbox being missing? or intake rubbers cracking?
If the air is good. Look at the filter again, when it runs on check, the tap should let out a small steady stream of fuel ?
Normally after idling around 2k for a few minutes hot, the filter should be half full. General riding will be “50% to 80% full, as it is a big filter enough to fill both carb bowls if it has to)
If not, did we replace the “Tap” and “pump” ? if you suspect it being starved of fuel to idle properly
Twisting a throttle up, should squirt more fuel through the mains as the slides lift (like you saw in the video)
Keep that video in mind when doing rev/throttle tests on the carb.
Choke is more like a “by-pass” thing to quickly wake up the bike before letting it idle on its own pilot jets.
I have been looking for the “add media” tab but can’t find it.
Should be there. Like this one on the screenshot below?
Okay no problem, keep us posted when the local mechanic takes a look!
You’re welcome!
If you have problems clicking the “Add Media” button on the reply-box , let me know and I will test it myself as a non-admin.
Tell me if there is issues uploading on Phone (Android? iPhone? or Laptop)
I uploaded a picture and it worked as you can see….
Regards!
