NGK Laser Iridium Performance Spark Plug Code
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Bike Model = : GT250R
Hi Marcel,
Could you confirm for me what the NGK product code is for these new Laser Iridium Performance Spark Plugs. I’ve found the Iridium IX version (CR8EIX) but can’t seem to find the product code for the laser series. Also could you provide your opinion on which plug is better, the IX or Laser series?
Thanks,
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Laser is better.Ā Ā Ā or keep using the stock CR8E
IX is overrated and to be honest some hyosungs just dont like “IX” tagged plugs.
Laser is just CR8E-Laser, beware though NGK plugs get faked a LOT.Ā If in doubt, go get one at an actual car shop / bike shopĀ not online.Ā Ā Youtube should have some clips denoting which ngks are fake and which are real.
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Thanks Marcel,
Appreciate the fair warning regarding fake spark plugs. I’ll ask at the local auto shop for these but to be honest they may be cheaper buying it through yourself.
Additional query, changing to these laser versions is it required to change the spark plug covers too and regulator? Or is it just recommended? Just curious to know the benefits of just one component versus the whole kit.
Thanks again,
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Thanks Marcel, Appreciate the fair warning regarding fake spark plugs. Iāll ask at the local auto shop for these but to be honest they may be cheaper buying it through yourself. Additional query, changing to these laser versions is it required to change the spark plug covers too and regulator? Or is it just recommended? Just curious to know the benefits of just one component versus the whole kit. Thanks again,
In a nut shell:
- Copper – stock plug – Common and bike was made for it, but easier to foul up and it wanes sooner in terms of optimal sparking.Ā it does not do well if the bike is very moody.
- Laser –Ā Platinum plugĀ (OEM to some Suzuki bikes as they shipped some older suzuki bikes with laser plugs) –Ā Very good for winter (sparks sooner at the slightest fuel entry in to the cylinders, it handles heat a bit better as the plugs are buried deep inside the cylinder heads!,Ā Ā also VERY LONG lasting,Ā I’ve not changed my own plugs for 2yrs! Hell I am that busy with everyone else , i try to keep my own toys as “low maintenance” as possible except for the odd valve clearance check, carb clean and oil serviceĀ Ā (air isĀ K&N , so i don’t need to change filters every again but i just clean every 10-20,000 miles depending how dusty / messy the air is around us)Ā Seaside air is more sandy! but i am digressing.Here is how to spot a fake from NGK’s own site:
https://www.ngkntk.com/newsroom/blog/emea/fake-or-not/Here is what they said in a nutshell , go where it says “Platinum Iridium – Types of spark plugs” below:
https://www.ngkntk.com/products/spark-plugs/NGK Caps = Consider them an absolute must have , not just for a marriage to the spark plug’s optimal spark butĀ the “black OEM caps” crack a LOT! and sometimes sparks leak out of the HT cap and i saw it with my own eyes all to often now.Ā Also NGK’s full rubber HT capsĀ (not plastic ones!) are best, and they handle heat a lot better.
The coil itself should just be replaced if it is faulty, otherwise the stock coil Hyosung makes isn’t too bad honestlyĀ (better than the chinese clones) as its still made in Korea.Ā Ā Ā Just give them a nice HT wire that’s like 7mm copper, if the factory HT wire is corroded.
Regulator =Ā No one really keeps OEM regulators for good reason, fails too much.Ā Ā If someone has EFi Hyosung i always sell the Mosfet Japan ones,Ā its too important (some ECU’s are just not easy to get hold of, if they get fried.)Ā Ā // A carby motor just blows its battery , stator , fries the harness or you see/smell burning at the side of your leg and you will feel the POP then you know its gone bad.
OEM values are 13.5v-15V carby motorsĀ Ā // 14.5V constant for EFiĀ Ā (anything beyond 14.6v is asking for trouble)
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