♠️ M77
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Hey.
I know for a fact when it says S&T and other says KRmotors with a different branding , it may not work simply we dont expect every sensor on bike to act with that ECU n the dash.I have not heard a lot of success stories about mixing GV n GT ECU but *some* 650 bikes are known to do that.
250 Carby & GV250 Carby dont allow CDI mixing, i know for sure and harness is NOT the same by a long shot
Your ECUs is best to match the bike its meant for 🤞
Hey Jake. You can send me a message if you want or email me.
A local breaker has them of a 2017 both front rear, i seen them with my own eyes eyes just recently , i am only a couple mins ride to them.
I’m due to buy other hyosung bits off the frame , so if you want the calipers i can pick them up.
If not, you may also try the facebook group where im sure there is 1 person breaking an RC125 but unsure if calipers were present 😬. Group name is *UK hyosung owners* with the white bike at the top.
Should be 15A its blue colored.
Standard blade fuse (not mini ones)
🤞32101-38210 STATOR SUZUKI
- 1983 SP250 Magneto
- 1982 SP250 Magneto
- 1985 SP250 Magneto
No idea how common these are in your country? A local bike garage or salvage yard should have an old running suzuki to take a stator.
Much cheaper than trying to buy from hyosung! They dont make em anymore so they are getting rare 😉
Not every hyo has it. But you may also add this trick to try.
Bike off. Then on. Hold *select* see if the digital display flashes between 6- 14 secs it may or not show up a code.
Although being EFI. You can always unplug the sensors & electrics and probe with a meter to see if they match oem specs/ efi manual should saw readings to expect.
This after your have done live tests of the stator n running electrics as i mentioned ^. Least you can assure yourself every part is in spec.
It may rarely but be the dash acting up or ecu. They can throw a CHE code which the manual says what it is during a process of turning key on.
Hope it goes away & all is well.
I hope youre okay now and electrics are sorted.
Ive dealt with EFI bikes. They truly can be a moody woman at times!
Luckily the live wire doesnt go to the ECU direct but buries itself in to main harness to link up with the horn switch.
The fuse did its job in this case 👍
Hey , sorry i delayed.
I believe from what you told me=
1. Unplug battery. Killswitch OFF. Ignition OFF. Wait overnight (next day). ==> Switch on Key. Then Killswitch ON. See if that clears it up (trying to trick the ECU)
Some people short the OBD dealer ports along the harness (find it) but i am out as Ive dealt with enough fried looms lol.
It is strange there is no error code or flashing sequences…
So last checks and probably your last enemies.
1. Ignition coils.
2. Regulator. Battery should be 14.3v running. If you see *13.3x* in any revs. Fix the reg. The efi hyo handles up to 15v since its harness can drop 1 volt in some places (just how it is). A better reg cures most electrics needing a bit more juice (henceforward = coils either being funny or 1 isnt getting what it wants)
If bike runs normally, i wouldnt panic but it is a good idea to check what i said 🛠👍
Unplug 3 yellow wires of your stator WHILE IT IS RUNNING.
Then switch your meter to AC 500V. You must get about 75v at 5k revs ish. Bike electrics (all) start from this device as the stator rotor spins.
Hope these ideas help!
Go on the right side of the bike, where the carbs are.
See the choke rail? = Push it with your hand towards front tyre (push-slide the choke rail instead of pulling the cable from your hand lever)
You will see with your own eyes if the choke plungers are working , they will normally extend out while the choke rail moves.
Failing that, grit and salty road debris can seize up linkages on the carb bodies. If you go to eurocarparts or halfords , just get Wynns Carb Cleaner and spray outside the linkages , to agitate the dirty linkages, the dirt will drip down. So get a rag and be ready to clean off
Ideally, you want to remove the carbs of the carb itself , then also spend time cleaning the jets with the same carb cleaner (search keyword “CARB” on this site for a tutorial on carb jet removal)
Pilots & mains definitely should come out and be blasted clean. Also use the carb cleaner to clean the inside of the hole (many holes inside!)
Sticky black tube sliders (diaphragms) can stop the main jets opening properly under full throttle (hesitant bike) =
Last one, you can disconnect the carb choke cable and check yourself that it moves freely by its own. and doesn’t appear cracked/kinked/stretched or splitting hairs.
will the thick brake hydrolic pipe be long enough to move over the new distance,
On that side it should be ok on GTR since the Comet Naked bikes have the same brake hanger but without the GTR adjustable plate extension.
Right side, you might need a shorter rod if you decide to do away with the gtr hanger extension plate. The stock rod is usually 188-190 for GTR’s , a fraction less for nakeds. I can’t remember off my head but rarely get requests for fancy cnc rods on naked bikes
It’s usually the GTR folk that ask for coloured normal rods , so i always premeasure lol.
Hope i answered you right , good luck!
The fact there is a clip on the engine casing to guide the hose
It looks like fuel overflow fron your tank.
That pipe will normally go straight down to the ground 👍
You could take a look at the link below & browse the last photo , you will see a 2d diagram and what the rings actually look like:
That copper ring has to go lol, think the person who sent you the motor did a rush job trying to undo pipes off it. It would ride rough if its leaking hot gases out , and we don’t want any debris going in there!
Hey.
The metal pipe that is at the rear cylinder or front is for fake emissions.
It steals piston energy & air from airbox to fake readings for emissions. (Euro3 nonsense!)Not to worry. It is a good thing yours didnt. Early hyos didnt have it.
Here is what you do. Find a fat 10mm hose(thereabouts) .
Cut 1 inch of it. Get 2 metal clamps.
Put a fat bolt in one end or a metal bung/plug.
Shove the blocked hose to the metal pipe thats on engine.Its best to do this before running it! Cant have pistons suck debris in.
Usually the service manuals tell you how do it. I was going to do a tutorial myself but been too far busy lol, this included clearances check etc.
It would take me 2 pages to do it but i’ll try next time i fix someone’s hyosung again.
To cut to the chase.
- flywheel should be marked F or R for rear or front. Leave it there.
- front or rear cams ===> EX is always #2 ^ | facing 100% accurately upwards | ^ (Straight vertical) or in other words, the EX cam always has a “DASH”__________ on the end of the of spindle — that DASH____ is always 100% straight horizontal line with the EDGE of the engine cover
- Any exhaust cam (front or rear) . look at sprockets for numbers.
Now , intakes cam (any side) (IN cams)
- Intake cam sprocket #3 faces 90% upwards (10% tilted to the RIGHT)(whichever side you look at, the #3 must be a little towards RIGHT like this> / instead of a straight line> |
- Between the number 2 and 3 ===> there is 16 links on the chain. (count 16 dots on the chain between #2 and #3 marked on the sprockets
REAR CAM LOBES look like this //ex \\in (125cc usually)
FRONT CAM LOBES ==> 100% away from each other <==ex in==> (in 125cc in this case.)I think you got this! Let us know how you get one. I’ll find time to write deeper picture-based guides of these things. If in doubt, you can always look at the vtwin manuals in the forum.
Usually bad weather affects the harness as RC bikes have a weaker built harness but they put less jacket on it! I’m digressing..
Id say from experience on various bikes, contact cleaners n acf50 should be in every bikers tool box.
A tiny rain drop of that stuff at terminals, bolts, plugs kills rust & keeps ur contacts goldy than the green sludge (and doesnt do favours passing electric current through.
Dash has its own mini harness though, if its bad beyond repair (rarely?) Then replace that mini harness.
Ive seen dashes go up in smoke in real time usually by bad electrics cooking things up, (stator n reg) it should trip the fuse at that point. Get a big swear jar lol.
However, you will be fine as long as stators n regs behave , nothing is being overloaded. The dash will be fine too.
Mine is 14yrs old , and have an 03 comet with manual clocks, it still lights up lol.
Hey Iain!
Quite the intro but what a story lol.To speed you up literally, as you are “officially” the new owner and it’s day zero with her (however old she is) , the best maintanance tasks performed to these twins is:
– Oil = Must be JASO MA2 on the bottle (no matter how polished the sales man is!)
Ester oil is better , GP bikes use it and these little twins run high rpm lives, so spare no expense on good oil! (Motul , RockOil TRM UK, Silkolene are who you should look at, period.)– Ignition coils / Regulator = They cause all kinds of drama, sadly these 2 are #1 on electrical woes. We tend to change em to better ones, the 650 folks have it worse (they even change over to a Kawasaki stator!)
I’m always fixing someone’s hyo every month , i know full well my swear jar is full lol.However, there is a couple of topics in the technical section where i went quite deep on how to check parts like: Battery , Charge system (stator/regulator) , coils n sparking (plugs) , fueling (carb and all piping)
I was replying to the other topics to troubleshoot rough running , if not i can always link you to whatever question you have to ask , chances i probably have answered it nicely.
Away from the engine bay , the next checks are:
– Fairing screws (stainless please) – Ditch the cheese ones , as they are known to seize up in the brackets! (GREAT FRAME but bolts need to be stainless!)
– Tyres. Michelins and Bridgestones are made for these top heavy bikes and critically you want sticky tyres not suicidal bricks like “Shinkos , Avons!”
– Chains = Get a 520 set. There have been enough drama on the facebook group about snapped 428 chains and they make the bike slower on hills 100%.
– Brakes = Stainless lines even just 1 at the front is night & day. I never looked back, not many do, that’s as blunt as i can say. As per manual “any hose” air brake fuel etc…. must go in 2-4yrs or it rots inside. Stainless = a decade plus even, so fit & forget lol.– Brakes = Again, yes, the hyos will happily eat chinese pads in weeks. You will want to only use EBC HH or my fav “Goldfren Carbon Ceramics” = Ceramics last ages & they like heat. So wet braking stays strong , compared to a hot organic that’s just glazing over the disc! (& organics really mess up wheels! = too much brake dust.)
Lucky for you it’s summer soon lol , so be quick and get her to speed!
Moved to Chat section.
I am in UK, I’ll say this bluntly though;
– The hyosungs share some parts of a suzuki. However Hyosung once built bikes for Suzuki also hence some hyosung part numbers end up.with Suzuki mumbers lol.
They last as long as the owner looks after em. We have even 2 guys on the forum who have the same bike for 10 and 7yrs respectively.
Common faults?(Just change them dont wait for problems)
– regulator, stator, brake pads, poor bulbs, tyres, ignition coils, HT caps. Judt beef the entire electrics and it will love you. Safety parts like brakes tyres etc applies to any motorcycle but for hyos quality matters.
High maintenance girls they are, the harder its ridden. So yes the manual says more maintanance of the bike is best when its having a harder life lol. However, i digress you will get an idea of what tasks are involved by downloading the manual on this forum
Honestly to parts buying. There is too many fake sellers out there so i wont even give them space in this forum lol. I’m parts trader myself anyway so i tend to ship worldwide very fast.
However, go be in touch with KRM America or KR Motors US to find a physical dealer near you. Also helps to find a garage that salvages hyosung parts too.
I have a GTR nearly 50K miles Odometer and a 2003 Comet that is 65K Miles on dash.
They last. Only kids & fake mechanics kill em fast.
However. THEY DONT LIKE WATER!. 2 reasons. The swingarm has poorer paint than the frame. Keep an eye. ACF50 is the product.
Electrics. ACF50 again will keep your harness happy. We in UK get a LOT of rain so we used to it lol.
For your price ; id say its cheap for a young bike 2500 miles!
I Hope what i was saying made sense! (Never mind my grammatical errors on this phone lol)
YOU WILL LOVE THE HYO . 🤙👌
Does anyone know the dimensions of the fuel lines for a gt125r think the previous owner put the wrong size on thanks in advance
Think your question was answered on FB , but it is 5-6mm tops. They’re small.
HEYYYLLLLPPPPPP I URGENTLY need a right hand foot peg for my GV650. Part number 43501HP9500. Does anyone know of anywhere in the UK I can get one. Either that or a UK based supplier where I can get foot boards intead.
I got your email, you should have had a reply from me already.
65k ish = old comet 2003 / my 07 should be 40k – but i believe so far i know barry & adam on here have kept the same bike for 10 & 7yrs respectively and still are on it lol.
Had a brief moment with a 51 plate aquila at 56k , i think the last owner took good care of it.
In one word. PR3. Actually Michelin PR2 , Pr3, pr4 have been highly favoured across big brand bikes
Truly a sticky wet tyre and tour friendly , i did 18k on them. I have also tried BT23 which are quite good actually.
My fav BT tyre is the BT92 which i am running. Its a very sticky tyre , almost as good as PR3. Cant complain! 🙂
So PR3, PR4, BT92, T31(bridgestone) are my picks and ideal for such bike
The stocks weigh a ton & are made of bricks!!! Quite suicidal in winter ill tell you that!lol
