♠️ M77
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Does anyone know the dimensions of the fuel lines for a gt125r think the previous owner put the wrong size on thanks in advance
Think your question was answered on FB , but it is 5-6mm tops. They’re small.
HEYYYLLLLPPPPPP I URGENTLY need a right hand foot peg for my GV650. Part number 43501HP9500. Does anyone know of anywhere in the UK I can get one. Either that or a UK based supplier where I can get foot boards intead.
I got your email, you should have had a reply from me already.
65k ish = old comet 2003 / my 07 should be 40k – but i believe so far i know barry & adam on here have kept the same bike for 10 & 7yrs respectively and still are on it lol.
Had a brief moment with a 51 plate aquila at 56k , i think the last owner took good care of it.
In one word. PR3. Actually Michelin PR2 , Pr3, pr4 have been highly favoured across big brand bikes
Truly a sticky wet tyre and tour friendly , i did 18k on them. I have also tried BT23 which are quite good actually.
My fav BT tyre is the BT92 which i am running. Its a very sticky tyre , almost as good as PR3. Cant complain! 🙂
So PR3, PR4, BT92, T31(bridgestone) are my picks and ideal for such bike
The stocks weigh a ton & are made of bricks!!! Quite suicidal in winter ill tell you that!lol
Welcome to the forum! 👍
Hope youre enjoying the visit ; you may also find us on the big hyo owners group on facebook.
There is a meet in Summer. When your damsel is ready to tour ; who knows we could see you.
I am based in yorkshire(near wakefield borders) too with a few people i know. We will do a mini yorkshire meet & ride when the weather warms up first.
I will give you a shout if we do this.
As for South Yorkshire. 1 for sure through facebook but dont know many others! If you spot em , invite em to the forum 😉
I shall be sending out decals & cards this year for sure just gotta print them now!
Taking a page out of the books. You may have low fork oil or the oil needs changing (usually every few yrs after a hard life on roads)
10w is best. 15w bit stiff but preferential to some people. Factory 5w is too soft
But loose fasteners can also come in to play.
Thank you an also what’s the gearing to make it have a little more acceleration I know it depends on the front sprocket but is it the more teeth it has or the less teeth it has that makes it have that little extra boost?
Hey,
Depends on the stock that’s ready to go , combinations of 13 / 48 , 15 / 42 are the normally the best ones and the chains max out 100-105 , that’s already the limit of the 250 , sometimes i send 13/46 in some orders – All 3 combinations i said , add some acceleration without affecting gearing too much.I know sometimes even a stock 125 has 14 / 52 . Just dropping to 13 without rear, is too much lol. Fast take off sure, but top speed is sacrificed now.
The GD250 uses a GT250 sprocket carrier , but it’s sprocket is now factory 48T instead of 46 on GT250 , i think that probably helped it take off a bit better lol.
Hope i made sense!
Generally over here in UK we use this kit by many 125 n 250 owners.
Uprated Japanese 520 Chain & Sprocket Kit :: Hyosung GT125R GT250R GT125 GT250
Also the best front sprocket aftermarket would be the UK made RENTHAL ones. They are on the shop page.
I am looking to see if I’ll stock up PBI (US) sprocket, i believe i may have found one but will be sure soon lol.
As for chains. You will want to use a japanese one over cheap aluminium copies.
When you go to the bike;
1. Fuel lines, get bigger braid ones which flow faster to carb. Hint. Exhaust notes are deeper (slightly)
2. Open the carbs. Ensure floats are at correct height which is 7mm ish. While carb is open, 100000% clean the jets (mains & pilots) also remove the black slider tubes and remove any debris clung to them.
Bigger jets help and you may get a little torque boost. Search *Carb* on this site to lean how to remove the carb and also swap jets. Plus there is troubleshooting info on carb starting/idle.
3. Use Platinum Laser plugs. They are that good & you will feel its effects through gears. No plug beats these and hyosungs always respond happier with better electrics.
4. Get a meter. Switch to Ohms (20k). You HT cap & the FRAME (unpainted part) must be 6.2k ohms max. As per manual.
This is your entire coil & HT cap together.
HT Cap *on their own* disconnected will say 7k healthy. Race caps have less (= less means better sparking power). Stock HT caps can misfire sometimes. This is common for all stock hyos n their coils. Their EFI coils arent much better!
5. Fuel filter. It will slow fuel delivery if its clogged also. Bigger filters can hold a nice little reserve until the carb drains fuel again without always waiting for the tap. (Stock hint = bike cuts randomly on a fast sprint, then i have tk crank to start it again or sometimes acceleration jerks a bit = this is your fuel system hint including a potential clogged jet in tandem of a clogged filter)
6. Charging System Test. (Advanced)
Rev the bike to 4k max
Unplug the MAGNETO’s 3 yellow wires (plug) near the rear shock.
Meter out. All 3 wires (in different combinations) = must say 70v+ AC (not DC)
If its less than 70v change magneto. Your coils & electrics depend on a good magneto.
7. Regulator. Bike goes no where without it.
Rev to 2-4k. It must say 14v at your battery te rminals (no 13.xx in any revs). Sadly stock ones never do this even though manual says 14.5-16v is best! Most of us including the 650 folk upgrade the stator and regulator to the kawasaki ones (trust the Japs)
Battery. 12ah is required. (YTX 14BS)
Yuasa / Varta / Unibat are my picks.
Key off = battery will be 12.8v charged or higher (the better)
Once this is sorted. Test ride. Then pay attention again to the engine for any top end tick sounds. Clearances are every 4k normally🤙
Over various bikes i owned i found YUASA (real ones), varta (german made), and UniBat are good. Varta my fav.
80% of other brands have chinese grade components inside. Hence it is a consensus to be careful shopping online for batteries due to fakes or duds.
For the hyosung. The correct size is 12ah for good reason, some garages fit small ones with little research. It says it in the manual but they ignore to cut costs. Lol.
Look for YUASA YTX 14BS at halfords , atv shop , bike shop locally (and ideal over online hunting)
However some folk use Amazon
This is it.
Also, Varta YTX 14BS
14BS batteries generally float at £45-60 range. The top 3 i mentioned are trusted brands 👍
Generally you will want to use Premium oil with ESTER. As the manual generally says premium oil is best.
Ester oils are: Motul 7100, 300v, Silkolene/Fuchs Comp 4 , silkolene Pro 4 Plus. These oils are unbeatable to most cheap crude mineral oils.
Fully synthetic beats any semi-synthetic simply because it has extra properties to help your engine , especially vtwins with a lot of bearings!
Depending on the store you visit , buy any oil that has
*JASO MA2* certification due to our wet clutch system10w40 is the normal grade. On summer or hot days 10w50 is ideal! (Best).
FULLY SYNTHETIC is best. ((Anyone that says Semi is best probably hasnt done enough oil science lol. ))
If the bottle says *ESTER* or DIESTER on it , then even better.
My personal favourites (over many years on various bikes)
Motul 300v , 7100
Silkolene Pro 4 or Comp 4
Rock Oil TRM vTwin race oil.Hope this info helps.
Hey,
Welcome to the site!Usually these things are mostly china aftermarket units found online to some varying styles but this is the most common way i’ve seen them fitted on various brand bikes (not just hyosung)
a. Sensor uses magnets near the shifter area
b. The “Neutral” wire sometimes is used to splice together (both dash & aftermarket gear display share the N sensor near the sprocket front)Typically, they should come with instructions with some diagrams to aid in the install process.
There isn’t a “specific” hyo manual regarding this, so this will be classed as a custom job. You may or may not need to splice in to the electrics depending on the unit.
Also this forum contains Service manuals for your bike, read one of them, you will notice there is a wiring diagram of the entire bike laid out on one of the last pages of the book.
Good luck, let us know how you get on!
Hmmm, i’m afraid to say that you may need to replace the whole dash , i think the regulator did more damage to it , so it is better to replace it entirely.
The manual doesn’t tell us how to repair the dash by changing electronics inside , so there is limited information in regards to GV650 dash units.
Welcome to the site!
Sorry I delayed , I wanted to also say you can meet us on one of the annual hyo meets that we do , check out the “events” section of this forum or more specific conversation also appears in the facebook group “UK Hyosung owners club” (Yes, some are still on social media lol)
Maybe you might see us on one of the future meets , speaking of rides.
The 650s are generally good bikes, and a little more torquey than the SV although, both company have a long shared history with engine R&D work these bikes.
Id caution to keep an eye on the regulator , and stator. These would be the common complaints across all hyosung CC bikes , the koreans did try to improve it , but they still fail. As yours is a new bike , your dealer should replace it accordingly if it acts up.
#1 most annoying problem and sadly may void the warranty , is the side stand switch. Even when while riding , your bike may cut out frequently as the kick stand switch rattles away inside , it’s just a really crap unit but i digress!
We usually cut it off & bypass it by joining wires . Our only caution is that don’t set off without double checking the stand is up!
All in all , good TLC and servicing will keep you riding it for years , i do know some of our members on here have had 1 hyo for 7-12 years.
Ride steady, summer is coming!
Hi, I have 2011 GV Aquila 250 efi with single silencer, would it be ok to swap to twin silencers or would it cause a problem for the efi system?
The trouble with the EFI hyosungs is they don’t take kindly on pipe changes, as a few owners can also atest to that.
The trouble is with the Lambda sensor that’s inside the pipe which senses gases going past it, it will trigger the ecu to either intervene in the fueling process or dash throws an error.
You may get away, with keeping the 2-in-1 stock system (best for performance wise) and then expanding the and can hole (make it bigger at the exit, about 5-10p size max)
The other problem is the end can itself. this would be looking at making sure the end can is as long or little shorter than the stock can and must have a baffle with a hole of a 2p size or less.
I hope this info helps!
Hopefully someone can think of something I haven’t thanks again
Hey,
The pilots are too big. Size 15 front and rear is plenty. (You said you up-jetted, this assumed to be higher than stock. You did not say what size.)
Pilots control IDLE & slow running. Your problem could be this too.
Air mixture screws must not be tampered with by any garage (They are idiots if they did) as the service manual discourages air screw messing , and for good reason.
Main Jets should be 90 & 92.5 = Unless the bike is doing 90-100mph, it won’t need size 95 which is 250cc
Some of the information below is copied from other topics which I replied into. (other topics have pictures & much deeper replies, so have a browse too.)
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Start your bike. Rev to 4k rpm. Your battery “must” say 14.5v at the meter , otherwise change the regulator. All electrics depend on how healthy the regulator and stator is.
Anything 13.xx is not good. So bare minimum is 14.5 up to 15v as specified in manuals.
This is your charging system (& sparking juice)Big sparks come from better electric supply.
======================================
Speaking of sparks. Remove your spark plugs. If they are “RICH BLACK” (Your jets were too big or the diaphragm slide needle may be on the rich setting, if the garage touched this), a healthy bike will show “DARK BROWN” plugs. No sign of ash blacks anywhere.
==============================
Before you start the bike again, grab a multi meter. Switch to 20K OHMS (20,000), then follow this…
1. Red wire of your meter INSIDE the HT CAP
2. Black wire of your meter on the FRAME (NO PAINT) (Find a shiny area!)
3.—>Your meter must say UNDER 7k ohms max!Hyosung says your ignition coils must be 5 – 6.2k ohms max. If its higher, you found your sparking / bogging issues. This is way too common, I digress! – I’d ditch the stock coils at all costs & the bike will be a lot happier (AND less annoyed spark plugs).
Kawasaki units win.
======================================Lastly, Grab yourself some “Platinum Laser” racing plugs. No other plug beats this , period.
You WILL have a better throttle with such instant plugs.The stock plugs foul up too easily & hence the peformance of your bike wanes quickly.
Lasers last 2yrs / 50k whichever comes first, if your fueling system is nice and good too.
Sorry I took ages to reply, let us know how you get on. Good luck!
way to work around this is CDI unit under the seat to cut the green & blue wire & then use some electric tape to secure it.
It works on “GT250-M815″ stamped CDI’s only, and it’s minimal.
Changing the coils will do better on throttle response than a small cdi cheat which helped old 250s to please eurotree huggers (emissions maybe?)
The effect on 125cc means the stock coil gets a little push up in 3-6k rpm (which is the area the bike tends to take off from lights)
M795 or GT”125-M815” are already full power as far as I’ve experienced them on my donors.
Some report placebo effect , like the SV650 coils are the same as the old 650 lol.The original poster may not need to worry about the cdi as there aren’t restricted like an ECU is .
True, the hyo’s biggest let down is its heavy wheels!
If the koreans had mad the wheels lighter instead of heavy cast metal, it would have weighed as much as another similar sized 150
Frame is only 30kgs lol.
The older generations models are generally a little bit beefier from stock than the new shape RC
RC is a bit lighter than old gen, except it was let down by slower parts fitted to it , so we’re talking 88mph vs 82-84 on RC.
You may consider a lithium light battery to cut some weight off, better tyres have less weight , the stock suicidal tyres weigh a tone of bricks! and ofcourse, ditching the stock parts for upgrades seems to do them better justice now.
More torque can be done on the extreme scale such as better custom valve springs, carb needle , jet tuning , ht wire changes , k&n filter, 250 cooler so it runs colder, etc…. but that’s a topic for another day lol , some tuning can be individual based
/Shop/ section at the top of site has the tried & proven bundle kits not found elsewhere.
And ofcourse i can always order genuine parts or your local dealer can do it too. Just email me.
Most sellers online can be fishy, so i dont talk about them or even give them a spotlight! as many people complained on facebook.
Speaking of facebook. Sometimes lads are breaking bikes , you make inbox them too if on budget. Group is called UK Hyosung Owners Club
Hey,
Welcome to the forums! You could also find us on facebook too 👍 (to be honest we all came here via FB lol)
Congrats on the purchase of your bike. As a mechanic / trader dealing with these hyosungs , i wont bore you with a mega long reply but this information below is based on feedback on most owners and my own experiences , so here we go.
Front to back!
– Front Brakes = Goldfren Ceramic Pads. Others are cheap crappy organics
– Headlights = Philips Xtreme Vision H1 and Osram Nightbreaker H3
– It hates stock plugs. Laser Platinums win. IX is boring & overhyped.
– Electrics are very common but fear not, just swap over to the proven japanese upgrades ( REGULATOR × IGNITION COILS × NGK HT Cap × 100v Kwak magneto). Take it from me, stock electrics are like bipolar women!
I would replace these ^^^ electrics before throwing any extra money on it. You will be glad you did!
– good vtwin engine. Following the manual schedule & regular TLC will keep it happy. It loves Motul and Silkolene ESTER oils.
If the bottle doesnt say *ester* dont bother. Enough said 😉
Get fork protectors around your forks. Stops grit from damaging seals then leaking. Also forks are soft. So upgrade to 10w fork oil to make them less bouncy.
Battery must be 12ah/14ah rated. As per manual . Smaller batteries cause too many problems later on; some fake mechanics put wrong ones.
Rear Caliper is known to get muddy. So monthly clean up and greasing protects the brake pistons from seizing up.
The Hyosung doesnt have a rear hugger from factory thats why.
Hyosungs hate bad weather but fear not. Make sure monthly , the old girl has a nice wash down. Protect the wires from weather attacks. Change as many bolts on the bike as you can to STAINLESS STEEL. Trust me.
Buy a bottle of ACF50. Its the best friend for dealing with winter rust. Spray the whole bike (except plastics n brakes!)
Then it will leave a nice film of anti corrossion protection all over it.
Carburetors are from a Yamaha 600 bike and upside down. So it is critical a carb is cleaned from time to time to maintain optimal power.
After all. *foreign micro particles* can clog the jets up. Our salty roads dont help either lol. It is eventual.
Change the chain to a 520 upgrade its not just for power but trust me , the stock 428 WILL snap. The hyo is 180 kgs loaded. You will quickly drain the wallet dealing with crappy 428 chains. Too many people know this. 520 kits are also much safer as they cant let you down in the middle of countryside
Tyres. Strictly Michelins or Bridgestone , Pirelli only. Cheap tyres is asking for a low side in winter. The stock *shinko* and *avon* tyres are just woeful woeful & suicidal!
If you have stainless exhaust or upgrade filter. Its mandatory to change jets!
Hmmmm, this is the common stuff. So i hope this info helps. More deep science is found in the manuals as you browse the forum. Tutorials and Owners book go a long way to keeping the old girl happy.
If i missed anything let me know!
