Tagged: Cutting out on tick over
Mar 12, 2019 at 4:51 PM #2386MickMember
NottinghamHyosung gt125rPoints: 214
- Topics: 7
- Replies: 8
Hi guys I have a hyosung gt125r 2016 model and today she starts to play up. When it’s running it cuts out on idle and around the carb area I can hermar a clicking noise when it’s running, the clicking doesn’t sound mechanical but it sounds like an electrical clicking. Any ideas what this could be so I can check it tomorrow I have checked ht leads and all seems fine there.
Mar 12, 2019 at 9:09 PM #2388♠️ MARCELAdministrator
North UKGTRPoints: 4,213
- Topics: 38
- Replies: 367
When you go to the bike;
1. Fuel lines, get bigger braid ones which flow faster to carb. Hint. Exhaust notes are deeper (slightly)
2. Open the carbs. Ensure floats are at correct height which is 7mm ish. While carb is open, 100000% clean the jets (mains & pilots) also remove the black slider tubes and remove any debris clung to them.
Bigger jets help and you may get a little torque boost. Search *Carb* on this site to lean how to remove the carb and also swap jets. Plus there is troubleshooting info on carb starting/idle.
3. Use Platinum Laser plugs. They are that good & you will feel its effects through gears. No plug beats these and hyosungs always respond happier with better electrics.
4. Get a meter. Switch to Ohms (20k). You HT cap & the FRAME (unpainted part) must be 6.2k ohms max. As per manual.
This is your entire coil & HT cap together.
HT Cap *on their own* disconnected will say 7k healthy. Race caps have less (= less means better sparking power). Stock HT caps can misfire sometimes. This is common for all stock hyos n their coils. Their EFI coils arent much better!
5. Fuel filter. It will slow fuel delivery if its clogged also. Bigger filters can hold a nice little reserve until the carb drains fuel again without always waiting for the tap. (Stock hint = bike cuts randomly on a fast sprint, then i have tk crank to start it again or sometimes acceleration jerks a bit = this is your fuel system hint including a potential clogged jet in tandem of a clogged filter)
6. Charging System Test. (Advanced)
Rev the bike to 4k max
Unplug the MAGNETO’s 3 yellow wires (plug) near the rear shock.
Meter out. All 3 wires (in different combinations) = must say 70v+ AC (not DC)
If its less than 70v change magneto. Your coils & electrics depend on a good magneto.
7. Regulator. Bike goes no where without it.
Rev to 2-4k. It must say 14v at your battery te rminals (no 13.xx in any revs). Sadly stock ones never do this even though manual says 14.5-16v is best! Most of us including the 650 folk upgrade the stator and regulator to the kawasaki ones (trust the Japs)
Battery. 12ah is required. (YTX 14BS)
Yuasa / Varta / Unibat are my picks.
Key off = battery will be 12.8v charged or higher (the better)
Once this is sorted. Test ride. Then pay attention again to the engine for any top end tick sounds. Clearances are every 4k normally🤙
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
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