♠️ M77
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Hey Max,
Send me an email if you need Pilot Jets (Size 15 is oem for all 125 twins, but sometimes you will find 17.5 added by other owners and makes bike hard to start)
I will not ship your parts until you let me know first please.
I also have some “main jets” too.For GV125 only this is the optimal settings:
Size 15 Pilot Jets = 2.5 turns out mixtures , both front and rear.
Size 90 & 92.5 is the max jetting and recommended.
Slide Needles = Factory is 3 grooves. 3rd groove towards pointy tip is good.
If you have 5 grooves = 3 to 5 groove towards the pointy tip is good, but check spark plugs and fine tune it. Maybe they like 3 or 4, because 5 is very rich.Size 87.5 & 90 is OK too as long as bike uses standard factory exhaust and do no modify air filters (GV’s don’t like pod filters ever.)
Do not worry too much about air because GV250 also uses the same air filter and air box, it will flow enough air for 250 & 125cc. Just make sure filter is new because they get clogged faster than GT125s (GTs use 650cc air filter and are able to filter air for much longer before bike starts to feel like its on a leash & slower/sluggish). Around every 5K is a good time to check GV air filters to keep air flow optimal.
All GT125 have 87.5 and 90 because i work with a lot of hyosung bikes now ,everytime i do some upgrades ,i always find 87.5 front and 90 rear. 82.5 on a GV is too small but it is probably to slow it down (restriction?) but most motorcycle makers these days used to put smaller main jets to try meet EURO laws but there is a problem, they will be leaner in top gear (and thus bike gets much hotter), so its not good for piston rings in the long term.
I hope i have made sense , good spark plugs will help burn that extra fuel , but we will deal with electrics another time 😉 , lets fix the carb first.
Just to add also,
How to remove airbox from GV125 an easier way….
- Loosen bolts for rear intake pipe.
- loosen clamps for intake pipe front and rear.
- Now, remove rear intake pipe”very gentle” and slowly from the bike.
- Measure bolts for intake pipe (eg. M6 x 20 for example, and get stainess steel please)
- Now loosen and slowly remove front intake pipe from under the carb (slide them out nicely)
Step 2….
Loosen airbox bolt from the FRAME (1x bolt holds airbox to frame.)Voila, the carb and air box have come out easy.
To fit everything back , do the steps above ^ in reverse.
This method protects manifolds and puts them away safely and you can take the airbox with carb together away from bike too next.
Caution = If you remove intake pipe , please change “manifold ORING” everytime, as old ones get flat or old after a while and air leaks will happen.
Caution = Get big masking tape, and hide engine holes , you don’t want to accidently drop bolts or metal parts inside engine holes and valves will seize when you start. Make sure engine surface is very smooth and clean before fitting manifolds again.
Everything else, follow Alan above ^ , i agree with what he has said so far 👍
This link is the slide mod is below[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
You got this , we’re here for you.
Have a nice full ride with it once its running well and all that just to give it a stretch from being stood for so long.Just like with any bike (regardless of brand) have your eyes pop out and look everywhere for anything suspicious (incase of a dishonest seller) also test the main things like brakes , check chain slacks , feel the wheel for any weird behavior, steering behavior , lights, electrics, horn , battery ,etc, etc, imagine as if you are doing a full inspection.
The seller may think you’re being overzealous, if he wants your cash , he will allow the investigation on your part before parting ways with your hard earned cash.
Hopefully its just an older fella, who has dry stored it in garage with no fuel (wise), so nothing is gummed up from rotting fuel
Remember, use e5 fuel only. They prefer it (understandably so)
Ride steady!
Hey look at this topic and the PDF was written by someone else to try kill off the popping sounds the bike makes after the ends change in 650cc
Welcome to the site, ask away as much as you want , we’re around to help you stay on the road , you will love the hyosung. It will love you even more if you also give it some nice TLC all over it. We can’t trust previous keepers to be entirely honest even a garage may not have done a full once over as they claim before selling the bikes even.
I think you have discovered they do have a character don’t they, if they are happy or a little mood they show it 100% . I can surely attest to this having owned various Hyosungs which i still do.
Stay away from sites like HyoSpares, WholeSale, EU, Catalogue = They have the same design and run by the same guy who has conned 75% of his people and makes sure a few people actually get their parts (even if it takes months), no one in UK likes them. Hell I don’t even do business with such sites , i deal with real traders on our soil or the germans typically. I will update the site to have more things for the 650 but if you don’t see anything, ill usually get it for you!
Then there is 2 more personal recommendations who are RacingPlanet UK (you can actually ring them, if they still have their numbers) and Startright Motorcycles Leeds (the oldest hyo dealer), i personally buy half my stock from them anyways since they are already in yorkshire as i am. Handy when i need something so i can fix customer bikes quick than waiting for other traders to send me goods.I am digressing, hey bank holiday is here, have a nice little spin with her!
Asian chrome at its finest! – Hey , you can always take the metal parts of and let local chrome plater rejuvinate them. Stator & Clutch casings are common to see chrome bits start to flake off after years of use and UK weather getting to them.
Or can always go all stealth black everything 😉 , something Korea is doing to their newer EFI GV300 models to their engines with some bits of GREY rather than real chrome.
I’ll admit i do like chrome on the GVs , suits them (could just be my weird tastes!)
Welcome to the club sir!
Post your ride here below:
As per simon too.
Unhook the tank and check the right hand switch unit is fully plugged in or check the connectors did not get dirty (get halfords contact cleaner for that)
Also open the right hand switch unit, look at the contacts for the “start” button and the red “Kill Switch” button incase water somehow got to them
While the tank is still exposed, check there isn’t a “Side Stand Switch” (not all older GVs have it). If you see a switch under the kick stand, cut it and throw it away.
Join the wires (going to the bike harness) , waterproof them hard with tape as rains will TRY to get to the wires.
Check also the “clutch handle bar” , there is a switch behind it and follow its wires, you will see it connected to the bike harness somewhere near the airbox or inside the headlight cluster. Don’t bypass it.
Get a meter, set it to ohms , squeeze the handle bar in and out, to see if the switch works. The meter says zero if the switch is dead. Replace the switch.
Usually the CDI (depends if its got 3 plugs or 2 plugs) will check that the rider has squeezed in the clutch before starting (it is a good safety feature, in VERY rare cases, i mean rare, the gearbox spins even if bike is in NEUTRAL, when you let go of the clutch, the bike jolts forward and cuts out, or forbid it jolts and falls down). You can always be sure its real neutral by pushing bike back and forth or just spin the back wheel if it has a center stand.
There is some units to sell here, not easy to find but exist…but even with scanner, therenis some question still missing answer
When you use the diagnostic tool to check the bike and do your own changes to the TPS, is it not responding better now ? Or do you suspect the TPS unit is suspicious (eg. a replacement is imminent ?)
Good to see you’re keeping well 🙂
Any seaside trip plans ? now that the weather is warming up ? I suppose some hard bags is all you need for a little picnic getaway trip
My GT will be soon going on a hiatus and i’ll be taking out the GV as i may carry a passenger with me , at the moment , i have been heavily inspired by the GV300SA that hyosung is bringing out soon.
I’m a carb guy so i like the older GVs engines wise , doesn’t matter what CC it is, however i do want to steal the looks of the GV300SA. What do you think 😉
That’s great man, having a scanner will save you a lot of trouble! – Especially with EFi bikes.
I hope that tool did not damage your bank balance as they are not cheap or easy to acquire now 😉
I got your email, it has been responded 🙂
Also have a quick ring to Startrights Leeds motorcycles , they are an old dealer for hyosungs & daelim, they do have an old new stock headlight or one that’s used i believe. Just tell them Marcel sent you, to get ahead of call queues , they can be busy!
Any chance you have Instagram (public) or YouTube (set upload to “unlisted”) , record what your bike is doing , make sure microphone is close to the source of the sound even have someone record it while you do it.
upload the video to either platforms above and share us the link here , i should get better understanding without making any wrong assumptions to a part incase its something else instead. I hope it’s nothing major though
1.20v – 1.30v could be a sweet spot but again we don’t know which TPS you have , Korea is sneaky to switch things around while still producing the bikes.
Hello,
I have just seen this topic, So you have already downloaded the manual that is good!You either have a TPS that is 1 bolt mounted or 2 bolts mounted. Notice i will share 2 pictures that show different voltages (not too dramatic though)
and also this one
Hey,
Hope you had a good easter.Back to business! , i’ll try to answer your queries in a drink shot style, if it helps.
- Spark Plugs = Basic CR8E or Laser suggested. You have CR7E, there has never been a real need for them on our climate to be fair. Also hyos love the 8 grade spark plugs. Threads OK, engine isn’t overheating. Center Cone is brownish, mixture ok in 5th gear, what mods are on this bike ? exhaust and intake?
Black ring, suggests slightly sooty idling (rich mix) or plug isn’t best or electric system is a tiny bit held back (common on stock sparking parts of carby bikes) - Show us the compression tester ? is it a proper brand or unknown ?
- Oil Drain Plug normal, its catching flying metalic shavings by the clutch and likely general engine behavior (not much), but proper quality oil will stave off this need to have much debris. The coloured plugs on the site catch whatever is thrown at the clutch side on the oil filler cap.
And coloured plug for the bottom has a stronger magnet too and less prone to seizures or rounding off.
Its not uncommon to replace worn drain plugs eventually. its good insurance. - Take a pic of the stuck intake clamp?
- Engine bolts i sent you = Max torque is 7lbs please. They are steel but engine is aluminium. Take 1 by 1 because if you take them out all at once , gaskets will give way and oil leaks out.
- What kind of exhaust do you have that prevents you using paddock stands or show us ?
Hello Alan, i’ve been away for easter, i just assumed someone would have replied in my absense.
Here is the diagram that shows the sequence of how to fit the items back.
That spinning drum with grooves in the pic is the gearbox cam shaft, hence it is critical that you put your bike in a center stand or paddock stand (whatever means to get the wheel off the ground. Spin the rear tyre by hand , confirm neutral works.
Then shift to 1st gear, the wheel should lock (spinning by hand only) DO NOT run the engine.
Then shift back to neutral, the wheel should spin freely.
Shift to 2nd gear, the wheel should lock (means gearbox engaged)Now start the bike and shift to 1st, and slowly be gentle going through each gear while you ride on the street.
Worst case scenario? Engine rebuild of its gearbox components again. Costly excercise so lets pray and avoid that.
i have efi gv 250 when it gets hot starts stuttering backfireing . and loses power but i can keep it running but got so hot when i made it home muffler turned color. im thinking maybe oxygen sensor . but want to see codes before tring to buy stuff i may not need.. manual says i need dealer mode selector tool . but must be a way to do it without it?
The plug where the manual asks you to use the dealer tool, use a paper clip to bridge across the pins, it is a bad suggestion i know but personally i would be careful doing that as not to short anything but it will do the job , the dealers usually have a “rocker on/off” switch that just plugs in that same port.
Will this void the warranty?
Hey, I don’t believe so because “brake pads, chains, brake fluid” should be classed as consumables to Hyosung bikes , since they do get changed regularly well 428 chains and brake pads are a common hyosung part change out by either owners or garages.
For assurance, ask the dealer that’s selling the bike to see if they will fit it themselves instead. It would be better they did it just so they can put it on their records.
Thanks Marcel. Just seen you the Facebook reply. Do you sell the 520 kits?
Hey,
Yes indeed, see link below:520 Upgrade Chain & Sprocket Kit [Conversion] :: Hyosung GV125-S EFi [Injected Models from 2019+]
