♠️ M77
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GT125R = All years
GT125P = Circa 2010 onwards
GT250 Naked Carby = 2005 – 2008
GT250R – 2005 to 2008<hr />
Sorry if you see this reply twice (as i replied elsewhere you posted),
That’s for fuel tanks that with a built in vacuum tap (pictured you posted)
That’s when the later UK GT bikes had black frames and did away with the “external” tap system.
I don’t think there is anything wrong with the external tap system, it does last a far while better than the korean vacuum type. The externail silver frame tap has a hex/square block at the bottom that can be taken off to get rid of any dirt traps, while the filter does the job of filtering particles before it reaches the fuel pump.
The “spigot” (tall things) inside the tank have a little mesh on top for 1998-2004 era 125GT bikes and the external tap likely has one too, 2 spigots = 2 pipes from the tank down to the external tap system.
I may find a diagram if i confused you.
Hope that clears it up!
Sorry if you see this reply twice,
That’s for fuel tanks that with a built in vacuum tap (pictured you posted)
That’s when the later UK GT bikes had black frames and did away with the “external” tap system.
I don’t think there is anything wrong with the external tap system, it does last a far while better than the korean vacuum type. The externail silver frame tap has a hex/square block at the bottom that can be taken off to get rid of any dirt traps, while the filter does the job of filtering particles before it reaches the fuel pump.
The “spigot” (tall things) inside the tank have a little mesh on top for 1998-2004 era 125GT bikes and the external tap likely has one too, 2 spigots = 2 pipes from the tank down to the external tap system.
I may find a diagram if i confused you.
Hope that clears it up!
Hello, I now know what the issue is: the rear manifold has delaminated from the metal base plate and was moving when the engine was revved. I have separated it from the plate and hope that I can rejoin them. I also need to place an order for the screws that hold the needle jet base in place as one sheared in half tonight.
It sucks when that happens, don’t forget to make sure the “orings” are in good spec otherwise we generally replace them anytime the manifolds are off.
Please save that manifold, if there is a hyosung part that is in major scarcity , it would be those rubber inlets and korea stopped making them a long time ago. You don’t want to spend 3 figures asking MotoGB/Sinnis to give you one (real Hyo UK) (not the fake spares uk one , they don’t have it.)
I won’t digress as i will assume you know what you’re doing and have seen loads of youtube videos on restoring classic bike intake inlets or cars that used to run carbs in the ancient days.
Oh yeah, i have manifolds also with base plates disintergrated, blame korea for the poor sealing, i just didnt get time to fix them up yet before i flog em away. I may just keep them as salvage for when my cnc guy eventually makes me half-rubber/half-metal ones , since he already does cnc stuff for hyos on my repquires (ie. rearsets, clip on bars etc, making cables of any on demand)
Hello 🙂
As you have both EFi bikes , DELPHi system comes early for some countries and later for other countries. I don’t know if you have an older DAEWOO ECU or DELPHI ECU.
In all cases, have you been able to download the service manual from this forum ? There should be a GT250 EFi book which includes GV250 EFi section and follow it’s steps to troubleshoot it’s ECU to get an error code.
If you can get error code out of your ECU, let us know what it says ?
I don’t think the bikes are carby as they stopped in 2008 , but if someone has put carbs on a 2013 bike, i don’t blame them it is much less stressful than fixing an EFi bike. Personally i went the carby route with my GV250 EFi.
However, EFI is okay when it’s working good. While you check for error code, can you yourself or a garage do a quick cylinder compression test ? What is the service history like too ?
It’s a lot of questions I know, but no rush, take your time. You will be going through a process of elimination.
Have a multi meter ready also because even if you have new parts, the service manual has instructions to test the parts for correct OHMS (coils, caps, sensors, etc) or VOLTS (sensors, reg/rec, battery etc,)
You got this!
Hey,
I will duplicate my reply on the other topic you just made, sorry if you see the same reply twice!
on facebook there has been a lot of complaints about that site. I myself never used them and i don’t intend to . I may sound biased , i don’t think they can move as fast as i can whatever the item is if was to order from my own b2b trade. Real Hyosung UK that any trader or dealer can use or even “phone” them with a physical UK base is Sinnis & MotoGB
The site , plus .eu , plus wholesale etc, are suspected to be clones of the same man that runs it according to many member reports through social media channels.
I did find it funny the gramatical error to charge someone that much for EMS! – I’d rather much deal with germans sometimes and they use DHL
You will also have to worry about import fees courtesy of HMRC/ParcelForce , i don’t think the site you used pays that. I do have to pay customs , but thats my expense so i don’t charge clients unexpected extras. But i am digressing, I would just be wise if i were you , yes parts do come sometimes , but sometimes it’s a mixup like a client of mine had a GT250S cable instead of a GT125R throttle cable. I had to make him one and send it to him , he is now disputing his case false advertising (and yes , it was not even a genuine cable sent despite them saying its genuine parts only) . Keep an eye on what you do and talk to the seller about your EMS woes , otherwise it’s kind to be refunded if the order hasn’t left the seller’s location (wherever they are located but for sure the product is not dispatched from UK soil!)
Hey,
I will duplicate my reply on the other topic you just made, sorry if you see the same reply twice!
on facebook there has been a lot of complaints about that site. I myself never used them and i don’t intend to . I may sound biased , i don’t think they can move as fast as i can whatever the item is if was to order from my own b2b trade. Real Hyosung UK that any trader or dealer can use or even “phone” them with a physical UK base is Sinnis & MotoGB
The site , plus .eu , plus wholesale etc, are suspected to be clones of the same man that runs it according to many member reports through social media channels.
I did find it funny the gramatical error to charge someone that much for EMS! – I’d rather much deal with germans sometimes and they use DHL
You will also have to worry about import fees courtesy of HMRC/ParcelForce , i don’t think the site you used pays that. I do have to pay customs but thats my expense so i don’t charge clients unexpected extras. But i am digressing, I would just be wise if i were you , yes parts do come sometimes , but sometimes it’s a mixup like a client of mine had a GT250S cable instead of a GT125R throttle cable. I had to make him one and send it to him , he is now disputing his case false advertising (and yes , it was not even a genuine cable sent despite them saying its genuine parts only) . Keep an eye on what you do and talk to the seller about your EMS woes , otherwise it’s kind to be refunded if the order hasn’t left the seller’s location (wherever they are located but for sure the product is not dispatched from UK soil!)
Hey Mike,
Happy holidays!
Sorry I delayed, I didn’t think we would hear back from you so soon since i think the K&N filter was the last thing the bike needed before its road test.
Has it been through its road test yet to see how it behaves or will it just cut out if you put it in first gear ?
If you are adamant these are okay below:
- Clutch Switch was bypassed by previous keeper and disconnecting it cuts the bike off (as a test) then put it back on. or the switch is not cut off but it’s working.
- SideStand has been bypassed and waterproofed well as rusty terminals will make it behave temperamental too. The CDI always “wants” a complete circuit (either from the switch itself or by bridging the wires aka bypass
If the bullet points check out OK above ?
I will ask again, if the bike idles fine- Can it take a short ride down the street without an airbox or will the engine cut off once in first gear ?
- If you fit the airbox and free flow filter back on and take a ride , does it seem better as the speed increases ? Ie. from 5mph to 20mph local street speed (basically putting more load on the bike to see how it behaves ?
Please try these so that i can have a more clear cut answer as in regards to your post just before i responded now. You got this….
What you have been through just now , i have experienced it myself on a donor bike that’s also an 03 and a 66 plate donor bike , but they had different causes. So i want to be sure what i can advise you next … Do the tests and report back if you can, it’s a warm week 🙂
I will watch this topic
Happy holidays to you all and a great new year ahead of us!!! 🙂
hi, so my bike got 1 rear intake hole, 1 front intake hole with rear pump and vacuum fuel tap. how can i apply this method? would appreciate much if could help me.
Hey its OK. Front intake pipe = fuel pump. Rear intake pipe = vacuum tank tap. Only GT250R & GT250 Any 125 owners should follow the original topic at the very top above ^^ Hope that helps.
I have an 08 GT125R with only one hole in both the front, and only one in the rear intake manifold. Would this work for me too? Cheers!
Hey, I don’t see why not 🙂
For optimum performance of the vac system why not do it like this …..
Front Intake ==> T Junction (Plastic or metal) <=== Rear Intake.
The see the 3rd hole of the T Junction? Do this …..
TJunction ==> long hose to rear of bike ===> SECOND JUNCTION
SECOND JUNCTION ==> Feeds Pump and Vacuum Tap.
In other words, you just get yourself 2 junction parts so that front & rear intake both feed the vacuum of the pump and the tap. Since the pump likes it when it gets vacuum from both cylinders of the 125cc
250 doesn’t matter too much since 1 cylinder does enough , but 1 cylinder can also work for 125 , just not optimally in some situation.
Let us know how you get on or if i have confused you in anyway, ask and i will clarify again… 🙂
Hey,
Do you know what caused them to get fried if the indicators are standard hyosung ?Does the relay box say “2x 10w x 3.4” or show us the picture of the box ? I do have a GV relay somwhere that i know works.
However , i am not sure if its 2 pin or 3 pin. Not that it matters too much unless your particular harness is fussy about it 😉 – I have 2 pin relays working on my own GT bikes that are meant for a 3 pin relay , that is also with stock 10w indcators x4
If an ex keeper used 21w bulb on each indicator, that’s easily 84 watts total! compared to 40 watts, god forbid if all of them turn on at the same time, we can see 84w shortly cooking the little relay box
So check the wattages of your bulbs too!
Hey,
I am happy you got your NGK caps. I wanted to respond to this topic and ask a few questions but wow , you already told me on email this morning when i woke up::didn’t notice a loose slider connection to the coil and it was basically working on a single piston,
So looks like you’re already riding away now 🙂
Let us know if you encounter any issues again but i hope not, look after that damsel!
Hey,
I even have an 09 and 11 Registered Aquila myself, they haven’t changed much at all 😉
Regards.
Hi, Fuel pump checked and works fine. Last part will be to fit the K&N filter and bigger jets.
That’s good news! – One less thing to worry about 🙂
See how it goes with the carb, also an excuse for one final major clean, (we can’t clean once can we, sometimes twice or thrice is good!)
Hey,
The as long the pilot jet says it is size 15, it is OK. The pilots are working by the fact you said it idles and revs up like a dream. I would leave the mixture screws at 2.5 turns each and leave it there until i advise when to reduce or increase it based on how it behaves on its upcoming road test ride.
If the pump was opened and there was nothing faulty in it ? Have you connected the pump back to the fuel filter.
The hose that leads to the carb, take it off and see if fuel shoots out and does it flow it or comes out like a trickle drop drop ? If it’s the later, investigate the manifolds are fully sealed and the carb is fully sealed to the manifolds to improve the vacuum system to operate the pump.
Both rear and front manifolds should have nipples to send vacuum to the rear pump as it does need both engine cylinders cranking to draw it open.
Failing that, it may be time to replace the pump. It could be its original one and never investigated in the bike’s life time. They rarely fail , but it does happen & isnt uncommon.
The slide needles both look good to me, can’t see any obvious bending. However, i will say new is better than old. Remember the advise of setting to the 4th grove towards the pointy end or revert back to the 3rd groove , if it behaves lean, 5th groove it is.
The needles take full effect when the bike revs go up and you’re riding as its part of “main jet” fuel metering.
I am glad the bike is running at least, so i think our last stop is the diagnosis of the fuel pump and vacuum system. I got your email , i’ll reply to that one too shortly!
Hey Mike,
If you can see the filter filling up, that’s good. That means the TAP is on from the tank area.
Next, take the fuel hose OFF the carb and point it to a bucket , then see if the fuel pump is shooting fuel out ? The pump is the one that sits near the battery ofcourse.
- This will check if there is enough vacuum to open the pump so it can do its job, it works in a pulsating nature of the engine intake cycle strokes , and it needs fuel flowing through it to work. Henceforward check the tank tap is working first by observing if you see the fuel flowing through the filter.
- Consider the hoses not to be kinked, the bike does also like gravity assist, so consider how the neat the lines are routed.
If the pump is good to go, then ofcourse the carb needs addressing again…
- Take the pilots out, and look in the sky. If you can’t see through them, there is debris inside you will need to clean them harder. It is these jets that will cause the bike to act moody and cut off.
- Mixture settings all good from my last advise ?
- Get a clean hose..connect it to the carb, consider your mouth please as i rarely advise this redneck method of doing something but lift 1 float, blow through the hose , and let go of the float. If you sense air is flowing through with ease.
Repeat with another float. Then you know your fuel valves do open/close based on the float raising or resting on the needle.
If the slide needle is on the 3rd grove pointing towards the tip, place it on the 4th groove facing the tip, that lifts the fuel up sooner as bike revs increase.
Check the slide cap isn’t leaking any air by ensuring the slide caps were flat and screwed in well, as if there is a chance of air leak, the slides won’t lift efficiently , thus the bike dies when revs increase.
I haven’t address the air intake system (orings, manifolds, airbox) as you have said you installed them as religious as you could.
I hope after this you can finally have results and test ride the bike yourself to see how it is behaving.
if the rpm needle drops fast ….and the revs stay at 1700 rpm (ideal) hot, the bike is OK.
if the rpm needle drops really slowly … you either have a pilot jet clogged that’s hunting fuel or there is an unknown air leak.Hi Mike,
Ignore the fact someone used 7.2mm (extra .2mm is extreme!), I just used their picture, it is too dark at the moment for me to fetch out a carb and take a picture, please excuse me for that.
- Just make sure its 7.00mm like this photo shows and you should be good to go…
- Also, lift the float, and let it go, you should hear the valves under it bounce a tiny bit, only a tiny bit! Then the spring inside the valve isn’t totally dead. It makes for awkward fueling situations for the float if the valves are dead.
Hope this info helps.
Top Yoke Decal – If i know a UK maker i will let you know or i may just do it because someone from the US actually wants to do it but i told him i’ll think about it. It was going to be a new shop item on a limited run to see how they fair up in popularity.
The coils , i meant checking their primary resistance and also secondary resistance , i mentioned a few times in other threads on how to diagnose certain electric parts with a multi meter , if you browse around, if not i can always dig out a topic and link you directly to it.
And you’re welcome !
Patiently following this 🙂
If you will , try to also reinforce the internals of the motor by putting beefier parts though, more power more responsibility 😉
Things like better bearings, new cam chain , clutch pack, sparing no expensive to motul oil, and what not.
