♠️ M77
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Quick question after receipt of my new regulator. All looks simple enough barring choosing the new location with plenty of ideas on the image gallery. Instructions say plug and play. Do I need to completely disconnect the battery before install? Cheers all.
Yes it’s a good idea to disconnect the battery as the red wire goes straight to it from your regulator plug.
I say disconnect battery because it will be a good opportunity to use contact cleaner incase water and muck have rotted the pins , then use “ACF50” inside the plug (a little bit!) , to for anti rust measures or slowing down possible metal oxidization in winter.
Most people just whack it in and ride off lol.
Take your time with it!
If you’re not sure how well your stator is doing, there is a few topics in the forum on how to test the stator (when i replied to other people’s topics lately)
A healthy stator will keep that reg active for a long time (so too matters a good battery)
Forget multi meters on the battery to test, go to a bike garage or halfords = They will test your battery for you using “LOAD METERS” (it’s this massive thing that says “YUASA” on it too. If the battery needs replacing the “LCD Glass” on their meter will say “change battery” or “battery ok” or “charging rate normal (charge system test)” etc…
I digress , sorry , i just know brutal winters are usually the harshest seasons for bikes.
That really sucks 🙁 , i hope it is fixable and you can go back to riding soon. There should be a spare crank and gearbox on my ebay (@evocrest), global shipping should be available on ebay as GSP ( GSP means ebay will collect the parcel and ship it to you instead of UPS)
Try to find a local engine in your country first so that things stay cheaper.
Good luck!
Looks really nice there, how cold is it now ? I assume its snowing bad but you live south and i am all the way up in UK , i haven’t seen snow yet lol.
If you find a spare key, send a DM to me and ill post a blank that you can go to keycutters to copy. Otherwise, you have to change barrel and fuel cap. DM me again as i have a used barrel & fuel cap with one key going for cheaps. no used pillion lock as i sold it sadly.
Still got the blanks mate? Can I dm you?
I am not sure but i can probably find out ?
Otherwise, please check out your local Morrisons or Sainsbury’s they should have a stall called Timsons Keys , and tell them you want to copy a Hyuindai Key (which the Hyosung is based off on if i remember correctly) if in a rush.
Does your bike have a “Clutch” switch at the handle bar lever ? Some GVs have it and some do not .
Get someone with you.
Tell them to hold clutch in.Then you should remove “magneto” plug on the left engine case.
Rotate crankshaft counter clockwise , to see crank is moving okay a few times.
If crank seems okay, it could be the gearbox.
Shell 97 is what we have here in UK also, VPower+ is good fuel , i actually use it all the time now.
Yes that is the website we discourage people from ordering = same guy , different domains (eu, catalogue, nz, au, etc..) , same design.
Yes i do not mind being a parts dealer for you , it shouldn’t be too difficult to ship to your country since i ship world wide anyway.
Also saggy chains and worn pivots between the gear shift assemblies can do that too.
So ,
- Grease all over the metal moving parts involved with the gear linkages. Because its a GV, add a very very thin washer under the “C-CLIP” that holds the gear foot lever at the front of the bike. it will keep it straight than being wonky.
- Check chain slack is good (off the stand) and while it is also on side stand, you want the chain also straight , use a straight ruler or laser light to check.
- Squeeze the chain with your hand, if the swing arm moves or chain carrier hub moves, then consider bearings in either swing or chain carrier hub or the rubber cushions under the sprocket carrier hub.
Just tips that have also helped me maintain smooth transitions for gear changes and neutral. Sometimes its worth making the sure the “engine ARM” behind the exhaust pipe is against the sprocket cover when in neutral , then re-adjust the clutch cable at the front handle bar lever 🙂
If cable has stretched (front lever adjuster is near max or half-way), replace cable.
Worst case is just a fresh clutch system overhaul. (everything inside the clutch basket, ie. tired springs, plates, warped metal discs etc… if its been so many miles / years with the same clutch)
Personally on my GT bikes i’ve not had a kit like that even the super rare ones made specifically for hyosung (not just a top box rack) , there is an ever rarer kit that combines top box and side metal racks to mount side panniers on it.
I only know one person in the flesh that had it was @barry on this forum, if you look for him in members section and send him a PM , he may tell you which brand made his racks.
Otherwise ,i’ve used textile “throw over” panniers that have straps that go under the pillion seat and the bags just hang on the side, the trick was getting smaller panniers so they don’t hit the exhaust aswell.
Since i own a GV, i know full well GV kits don’t fit GTs.
Make sure the “tip” goes in first, then put spring under the bottom of the tip that looks like a cup.
Then tighten bolt.
Do not start engine, yet.
Put rear of bike in a paddock stand so that back wheel is off the floor, then go on in neutral.
Try to shift gears, if 1st gear is selected, the wheel wont spin, then it should mean gearbox is engaged, go back in neutral spin the spin, then stop, shift to “2nd gear” after holding in clutch lever.
Hope this helps and good luck, i hope no damage was done to the gearbox as it would suck to strip the engine down.
Hey,
Welcome to the website! It’s good to have you and yes go get the bike!
Because it is a carb version, you will be better with it because there is less worry about “million EFi Injected electrics” all over the bike. All you do is keep the carbs clean , upgrade stator & reg with good kits (not chinese kits!) , good brakes, tyres etc and it is a happy bunny.
Remember because it is a carb bike, (even EFi is included) make sure to always use 95 Fuel (we call them E5 here in UK) , do not use “E10” fuel because it has no benefit and it is the devils juice that will eventually give bikes hell (no pun intended)
Parts are okay at the moment as i have no trouble buying parts for 650 bikes when i fix them for customers here in UK , but i also try to offer some 650 parts in the shop for “common” maintenance tasks. However i can usually get any part from my supply chain.
If you see a 650 in your country for wreck/salvage/scrap yard – Buy it and you may have a donor bike for yourself if you need future backup spares etc…
Do not buy parts from sites like Hyosung “Spares / EU / NZ / Catalog” etc (it has blue & white design) , too many people have problems with those sites.
(that’s why this site has a dark design, so we have nothing to do with them, i do not do business with them anyway)
Hope this helps!
Make sure to go see the bike and ask the previous owner of any issues to fix before you can ride it but hopefully it has no issues and good luck!
Hey,
Do you mean side pannier mounting racks that you seen commonly on the GV bikes ?
Did you take out the wrong plug under the engine ?And did you put everything back where it was exactly ? (BEFORE starting the engine ?)
Hi! I have the same problem during oil change (( but the issue is that I cant switch to 1st or 2nd (( help me pls
Hey,
Have you had a chance to go on Amazon Prime and get a compression tester and check the engine compression after it is warm? (Do what you can to help it keep running for 10mins hot) then switch it off.
Both spark plugs out.
Put the compression tool inside front engine (with a metal rod) , forget flexi hoses. use a straight metal type that comes with the compression kit.
Crank the engine full throttle for 5 seconds max.
Read the compression
Then repeat with the rear engine.
Tell us what the engines say front and rear
If we can start with the engine first , then we can move on to the carb , air system , fuel system , electric system. Bit by bit.
Keep us posted!
By any chance did you or your mechanic follow this guide to the T?
[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
If the plates and springs were OEM (they would be inside original hyosung bags) , then i can also suspect clutch cable , lever , and the arm behind the engine not fully adjusted perfectly
So bike rides on new plates hard but wears them down faster (premature wear) as arm behind the rear engine seems to be slightly be pushing the plates , even though bike is in neutral.
Quality oil really matters too. If in doubt , just put Motul 7100 and new oil filter and don’t trust what oil that garage uses (not to trust their lips either)
Oil change tutorial is here[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
If you have an aftermarket clutch perch holder at your handlebars, be ready to replace it as all chinese based universal clutch lever/mounts actually snap cables or stretch them out , then alas, your clutch springs get annoyed , so you will end up redoing the whole clutch.
Changing the clutch thrust bearing is a good shout, to maintain smooth transitions when changing gear, as both inner & outer baskets spin.
If i missed something else on your bike , please let us know what else it’s doing or even pictures of your bike of anything you not sure of.
I hope my reply gave you some extra insight 🙏
How did the headlight fixes go ? Looks like you’re having a good time out with it as usual! 🤍
This is what 40 racing hyo’s look like in the Carl Cox Hyo cup in NZ at Hampton Downs. Round 2 of the 2022/2023 seasonThis IS WHAT i would love to see happen in the UK though! – I wonder what it took for Carl Cox to start the cup series over there ?
Great photo! 🤍🤍🤍
I will try to hunt them down this week in the workshop , i am 50/50 sure i probably have some laying about 🙂
Yup, as per previous comments. NGK HT caps we have will be your savior, and defo marry them with laser plugs. She will be happy afterwards for sure.
I would not buy the IX ones again to be honest nor use the OEM caps. You’re amongst the many owners who have had to replace the caps and use laser plugs , after that, the coils generally spark good. Infact , if the fuel system stays healthy and the electrics behave, you will keep the same laser plugs for 2yrs. I have personally gone three years without changing plugs. Usually when a customer drops their bike off to me, first thing i do is get rid of the caps & waterproof the overal electric system a little more. If the OEM coils are good, i leave them alone , unless i change them at the same time as replacing caps and fitting new laser plugs. However, even stock CR8E will do a better job than CR8EIX on the 125cc, just that CR Lasers burn fuel better, so that helps in winter making the 125s start sooner and warm up their cylinders quicker, the throttle is a little sharper when married with the ngk caps. the 250’s can live on stock CR8E and usually warm up a little faster anyways.I wont lie , the right side plug looks kinda sooty sooty. It should about dark brown in the middle.
The threads on the side of the plug should have about 3 to 4 lines dark and the rest clear . This suggests you could invest in Motul Factory Line Coolant, (Best one there is and i like motul products, so i may sound biased but that’s all i trust with my bikes) , this may help cool down the bike a little better than whatever the dealer put inside (not all Hyosung GV125-S efi come to UK complete, some are usually in a crate that a dealer probably has to put liquids in , battery and fit handle bars, etc things removed to fit the bike in crate boxes and inspection checks before selling it to customer, some dealers can vary their methods of doing things – In either case, if warranty is enforced, they would make sure the bike is sound before selling to you with paperwork etc.)
Thank you, and don’t worry i will sort out a better unit for you. Remember to check batter voltage idling and revving to 5k when both cylinders spark.
By the way, any chance you can show me the regulator connector plugs ? I build plug & play terminals for upgrade regulators
Like this example below
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier {Reg Rec} :: EFi Hyosung GV250 GT250R GT250
As long as i can see the regulator connector plugs i will know what to do! 👍
Get a picture of the regulator itself, and copy any part numbers written to it. And also post a second picture showing us what the plugs look like.
The regulator will say 14v idling (both cylinders need to fire first though so engine runs properly) and 15v max around 15k revs at the battery terminals.
If the reg is good, wonderful. Consider pimping the unit later on. I will know what to get based on what visuals you send me on here.
Stator tests = Your stator is fine. It’s too healthy to worry about it now.
