♠️ M77
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The stator will be fine as it will be too young to have issues at this rate, if the stator was failing, the bike simply would not start whatsoever.
Also it will not produce any power to the regulator to feed 14V to the bike.Stator is multi purpose
– EFi Pulse Sensor will tell the ECU that it’s okay to start running and the ECU is constantly communicating with the Pulse Sensor of the stator.
– Charging Element – the second part of the stator will be sending AC power to the regulator so it makes DC power for battery (charge) & electronics (general running)Your bike dropping 1 cylinder will be most likely what has been on my previous comments 🙂 , Your bike is too young right now to have a fried stator.
Though, the stator may still be working fine, i’d treat it to a better regulator incase the current regulator is fishy as was the case with older hyosungs.
Infact he can test the stator himself now for his own peace of mind.
1. Bike stays off. Do not turn on the dash either.
2. Get a meter and set it to 400 ohms max. or 200 ohms max. (not 200K / 200,000)
3. Grab the stator’s “2-Pin” plug, and probe it. Both meter leads inside it. = Get ohms reading and tells us on the forum what it says and ill confirm it’s okay or not.4. Part 2……….
See the “3 Pin” Yellow Plug for the stator , right then, do it like this exactly.A. Meter wires inside Pin 1 & Pin 2 (any order) = Get ohms.
B. Meter wires inside Pin 2 & Pin 3 (any order) = Get ohms.
C. Pin 3 and Pin 1 = Get ohms.Let us know also what A.B.C says
It’s 2 stage test (since it has 2 plugs one with 2pins and one with 3 pins)
There is no need to ground the frame or anything, this is how Korea does it also
How much voltage is the stator making ? It would be best to try get both cylinders sparking first as you wouldn’t want a back cylinder getting fuel but no spark, eventually the piston rings will get funny or the engine may get hydrolocked when fuel & oil start mixing and filling up at the back pot.
Regards.
So that’s OK for the pipes you have for sale on ebay.
Yes, they fit the master cylinder and the calipers, we will dispatch soon, keep in mind of delays due to current RM strikes.
Where can I get a front master cylinder rebuild kit if they do one thanks.
They don’t exist anymore but i hope it doesn’t come to that if it works , usually its the calipers that need rebuilding in most cases.
Hi its says 1/2 on the back of the cylinder.
You will be alright, it will push 2 discs 🙂 , Keep it.
Hello Lee,
Welcome to the site! Please do not panic and set the bike on fire. I totally understand the frustration believe me i do! It is a lovely bike to be fair but, there is a general consensus that hyosungs can act strange after a blizzard of a rain situation if you notice:
– Water getting to the HT caps
– Water getting to the plug holes (older models that had missing dust covers by previous keepers taking them off)
– Water getting to the air filter, regulator plugs , and such.Korea did mitigate ways to avoid this happening but it can happen to other motorcycles though, so don’t worry your situation is easily fixable i guarantee it.
Hyosung 125’s dont really like “IX Iridium” plugs (the blue box) because they are overhyped junk. They are really good then they wane fast, after they wane, they don’t produce their peak power anymore.
So for spark plugs, it is advised to use “Laser Platinums”
See belowNGK LASER Iridium Spark Plugs x2 – Hyosung GV125-S (Injected)
These plugs can even last you 2yrs (unlimited miles) if taken care of (meaning the electric system must not give them a reason to give up the ghost, like any plug would or bad fueling system) However, the throttle based on feedback i get from other GV125-S owners is that there is no speed gains but the bike starts faster and throttle feels sharper.
Next up, which is 100000000% recommended to all GV125-S owners is to use an HT Cap with a race lead attached to it.
See product details below for deeper explanation
And also study pictures please, because it shows that the owners “KEEP” the rubber dust caps that go to the coil itself. to stop water getting in between.NGK Uprated HT Lead Spark Plug Caps (x2) – Hyosung GV125-S EFi (Injected Models from 2020)
Also NGK products for HT Caps rarely fail. Hyosung’s black caps are likely made in china. (as was the case with older bikes having HT caps made in china and they failed a lot in various ways, not just because of weather, heat was their enemy too)
Now speaking of heat, can you share the picture of the coil you purchased? was it genuine?
If you swap coils, does the back coil still get hot again ?
Lastly, as it’s important — Get a meter, check the battery is 14.5v at idling and 15V max around 5k revs.
Go under the bike, take a picture of the regulator/rectifier. If it has a part number printed on it. Copy it.
Also follow its plug under the seat, get a photo and show me.I may see about stocking up a better regulator for these bikes like i already do for the 650, 250s on the shop and the older “carb models” of 125cc , with good success. It has been an old consensus
Keep us posted
You got this!
I have the same problem , when I turn my ignition switch on and have the Killswitch on it shows cHE and when I turn the Killswitch off it goes away but my fuel pump never turns on , ever .. what could be the issue? Hyosung GT650R 2010 EFI
Have you checked there is power going to the fuel pump harness plug ?
Have you check there is power going to the fuel pump relay (4pin relay unit, usually blue or black)And try to switch headlight relay in to fuel pump relay, to see if the relay is faulty
After having a spray feet with half the plugs with cleaner, I noticed if I have the bike turned on, as if ready to start and then play with the gear lever, the CHE will disappear and it’s like it resets and does it again, so I’m thinking I’m going to have to pull the GP switch out and give it a good clean, and cross my fingers.
Keep us posted, we do have some progress now!
I am also praying the ECU is okay too.Simon is correct as some later 125cc have master cylinders robbed from 250 Naked. They will push 2 discs just fine.
However, please look under the master cylinder and tell us if it says 1/2 or 3/4 or 5/8 . its in big engraved writing.
I do have the splitter on ebay FYi to split lines in to 2 calipers 🙂
The big NO-NO in brakes is using chinese cylinders. They will not beat TCTC.
Otherwise , if you’re serious an OEM CBR 600 (Nissin Japan) will work but total overkill for a 125 if i am honest. I’ve never had to change the TCTC cylinders for years, they work good for the most part. The calipers themselves are good as long as the pistons and pins etc are stainless 🙂
I’m really at a loss, I sprayed most of the connectors including the ECU and still the same result. I’m thinking I may have to remove the air box, and follow the wiring, and clean out every plug, and look for any kinks in the wiring, and if that doesn’t work….. I don’t know. is there any way to test the ECU to rule that out???
By any chance have you downloaded one of the service manuals in the techinical section of this forum and get the 650 manual that corresponds to the version of your bike (Because yours is a 2010 , you either have a daewoo or mitsubishi ecu , but its rare for a 2010 to have a delpi ecu until later years but i won’t rule it out)
The service manual does have some pages where you can try to trick the ECU to give out an error code to the dash (if the CHE does go away) or it explains further what to do when CHE is present , though , their cartoon diagrams do explain how to test other electronics with a pocket meter to be on the safe side.
What you want to do is thoroughly check every electronic part on the bike, some can be tested without the bike needing to be running , it is a tedious process , but if it’s all ruled perfectly, that would leave just the ECU or the Harness itself. I pray its not the ECU, it is a costly part on its own self!
the che light usually means a communication problem with the ECU. Silly question but have you flicked the kill switch on?
Sure have, tried it on and off, still the same. I have done continuity test, but only on the blue wire, which is meant to be the comms line. I’m really hoping it’s not an ECU.
Hey, do you think it’s possible that you can grab a can of “contact cleaner” and clean the contacts of the ECU plugs and the ECU it’s self.
It may be silly but also check connections to the clutch switch , side stand switch (bypass and join wires) and the stator plugs
(do check the stator pick up coil also) and injector connections.Wait about a day for things to fully dry out unless the contact cleaner instantly evaporates away.
Not all EFI’s ((since Korea makes variations of them Delphi, Daewoo, Sentec, Mitsubishi (rare), etc))) do this but some EFI models check the above ^ parts before trying to engage anything
Welcome Rob!
As Jim says , you have all the luck, you will get her going no worry. Keep us updated on your other topic as Simon is another good wizard 🙏
So turns out the LED was shot. Just getting replacement surface mount LED’s fitted now.
Do share what you do and your results, i might just pin a separate topic you make for future owners facing the same thing. (sort of like a How To guide)
Do check the other LED’s for the voltage supplied to them and your replacement SMD’s should have the same voltage requirements. I’ve seen them go as low as 1.5v to as high as 12v for car/bike instrument clusters.
Sorted for me now Marcel thanks 
Beauties!
Thank you all 🤍🤍
Simon is right 👍
FA86 is a very common pad that even your local bike shop should have it. Hyosung has kept the same Grey TCTC calipers front and back for all Carby 125cc twins (That is the GT125 & GT125R)
My recommendations are to use Sintered pads (EBC, Goldfren, those likes etc) than cheap chinese organics tbh.
First time I rode this bike in full darkness and I realized that the headlight was pointed downward about 10 meters in front of me. That and the blinding speedo light made for a bit of a spooky ride! I already played with the speedo brightness, but for some reason it went full bright again. I haven’t had a chance to figure out headlight adjustment on the Naked yet. I sure am infatuated with the sweet power spread of 4000 to 8500. ( in 250cc terms)
Personally i have not had hands on that particular rare headlight as UK commonly gets the roundshape versions (classical look) but speaking of lights, have you had a chance to look behind it for some kind of thumb-based adjustment dial to rise or lower the beam aim or look at the screws holding the headight to the fork bracing , there must be a way to loosen 2 bolts (1 each side usually) then adjust aim, hold it there, then screw in tight. Usually does the trick on my GV Aquilas. The other GTRs i have have a thumb screw at the back as its too awkward to do it any otherway lol.
Since you are in Yorkshire, you aint too far from us if push comes to shove and i’ll sort the motor out but for now lets see what your own fine hands can do, i trust that you will get a breakthrough!
As for picture uploads , I am currently fixing this as i did something silly under the hood when updating site code (developing/custom programming isn’t always fun but i’ll get to that very asap this weekend , that’s on top of fixing bikes everyday lol)
The blue visual tab is there, but does not allow me to add media. I do not see “add media” anywhere.
How about now ?
Welcome to the forum!
Sorry to hear about that but we have faith as the engine is indeed alive 🙂
If you have an Amazon account, get USPRO compression tester or get a mobile mechanic to come over with his compression tester (don’t matter if its for a car, it does the same thing)
Make sure the bike is 10mins hot, then take the spark plugs out , both of them.
Put compression tester in one of the cylinders , eg. Cyl 1 is front engine spark plug hole. Put it there and hard.
Use a “METAL” rod with a curvy rubber tip , dont use a flexi hose because they are known to give false positives sometimes.
Twist throttle to full throttle, then hold it there. Crank the bike for 5 seconds ish max.
Get readings and report back .
We tend to always check engine compression of bikes before address other parts such as carb, coils, electrics and all that comes with it.
The engine is the main key to check to see if its actually healthy
Also, it helps to check valve clearances (if you can or mobile mech?) = Tight or loose clearances make it hard to run right no matter how tuned up the bike is.
It helps to keep fuel lines around 7-9mm max. 10mm is a little overkill to be fair and vacuum lines should be around 5-7 max.
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Sometimes , with the 125cc bikes, half its starting issues or idling issues are a result of the inlet manifolds , it is of the utmost importance to take them off (becareful, rusty bolts!) and visually inspect them.
Under the inlet pipes are rubber orings that are terrible because they don’t last long and usually is recommended to replace them eventually.
You will be surprised how much help these little things can do to a bike that’s got a vacuum loss due to caked up old rings or it’s struggling to start.Intake Pipe O-RING (Inlet Boot Seals) x2 – GV125 GT125 RX125 GV250 GT250 Hyosung
Please becareful with intake pipes, the 2014-2019 bikes have intake pipes that are much much soft and prone to splits than the old school bricks of the 2003 bikes (trusted inlets, they are thicker and rubber is better quality). General consensus is that new shape (2014-2019) bikes were a little rushed than the old school 2003-2010 era bikes with grey engines.
It may seems like a little more maintenance is needed on factory new shape bikes but overall they are still wonderful when everything runs right 🙂
I hope i have made some sense but report back as you go along , i will keep an eye on this topic , you got this 🙂
The float seat was a little restricted yes, so it’s a good job you have cleaned out the mesh cone that’s under it. Now the bike can correctly meter its fuel.
Feeding fuel straight to the carb is okay with a clean auxilary pump, just make sure there is an inline fuel filter as you will never know , micro debris may be present in the fuel than our eyes can see.
Was the airbox still connected and fully secure ? And also if you spray under the airbox rubbers and carb engine rubber pipes, with carb cleaner, do the revs change ?
It may explain the slow drop of revs as it’s either
– Hunting for fuel to idle down (clogged pilots / mixture screws too lean / airbox suspicious)
or
– intake manifolds on the engine have a micro leak somewhere
or
– Vacuum hoses have a leak (double check they are blocked hard if not using fuel pump and fuel tank)You can clean the fuel pump yes , but open it. Don’t use air compressor, just a gentle washout with the carb cleaner helps.
No need to spray carb cleaner inside the “silver” hole of the pump , as that’s just for air vacuum.
If the fuel pump is faulty , it will be slow to deliver fuel or if bike is switched off , fuel will leak in to the silver vacuum hole , then leaks in to intake manifold pumps (which is not good for engine health as fuel washes down piston walls and oil is like water and smells very very strong of fuel, this is a sign to immediately flush engine and piston rings may need changing
Which means your compression should be around 150-175 psi hot healthy. It will run at 130 psi but it isn’t ideal, i believe that’s a limit , which means rebuild time soon.
I assume clearances are spot on ? (can affect compression values too)
Or if possible, expect to change head gaskets while replacing piston rings or pistons with rings , this would be an opportunity to really inspect cylinder walls and valves are sitting nicely in the valve head.
So the visual tab is not there anymore ?
Also do you see a button on the left of the reply box that says “Add Media” ?
I really appreciate this , this is on me to fix as i did do something hence i left a yellow notice to logged in users i’m doing something at back end , but don’t worry your feedback is helping me a lot.
I will create a test dummy user and login with it. and test.
If there is any issues posting pictures,
Please try this topic below to test , so i can fix any bugs on the site.Test Topic (Can everyone use this topic to test pictures please)
Can you please explain a bit more please? So i can fix it. I might have caused an unintentional bug when i was doing work behind the scenes .
That’s why i created the below thread as a test topic / image dump test…
Test Topic (Can everyone use this topic to test pictures please)
