â ď¸ M77
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Whoa whoa wait….
You have a CARBY GV ?   Not the EFi model ? Please confirm before i dispatch and i will have to change products inside the box!
Do you think i was too confusing between the Carby & EFi pages of the GV chains ? =Â I can always edit the product descriptions to make my english a little clearer ? Sorry about this.
Hello,
Yes if it is Mrs L….. then yes , it is in progress đ , it is due dispatch Friday/Saturday , there was a minor delay with the supply chain, so i had to get a different branded chain of good quality but don’t panic , everything is ready and boxed up , just waiting on courier.
If you would be so kind to post some pictures of your bike with the kits fitted.
Also head to the “product page” of the GV-125 EFi (injected) chain kit and leave a raw review so i can’t see how well the kit did for you and i’ll do better next time đ , it would mean a lot. Even if there is something i should improved (eg. i can always ask my cnc guy to try replicate the sprocket again with more or less teeth) , for now i’ve balanced it to try get best of both worlds (trying to add a little more top end without sacraficing acceleration after all we need the 125s to pull well incase of overtaking.) but i am digressing ,
Tell her I sent an email already explaining the minor delay (check junk folder too) and it’s on the way , do not worry đ
Another trick, get your CALIPER pistons out, ultrasonic clean the body and carefully refit the pistons back in with their seals (caution that you may need new seals again) (Common Hyosung item to resolve when servicing brakes or if pistons have gone bad , which allows air to get in to system sometimes.)
Before you fit the pistons in fully, put them about 10% inside the caliper.
Now fill brake fluid in the master cylinder (check washers are good for the hoses or may hiss or leak air, or fluid out)
Once the master cylinder is filled in.
Put brake pads inside the caliper.
Now press the pads so that they compress the caliper pistons down fully inside the caliper
The master cylinder should be hissing and bubbling up at the top, suggesting most air is leaving the brake system
Then as usual, try to pump your brakes and bleed a little then pump your brakes , if it fails , it could actually be the piston itself not being suitable or strong enough.  it could then mean time for a master cylinder replacement
Keep us posted!
Absolutely jealous , but i am loving your sceneries, you really do live in the right spots.  KLX for the wilderness or bugging out đ , Hyosung for the fun!
Though if you’re brave, you can throw in some trail tyres on the hyosung and hold on tight!You can heat up that area a bit since heat causes metal to expand slightly and soak in some old bike oil between the pipe and the reducer, so you want the walls to slip up and pull it out.
How are you liking the KLX compared to the Hyosung GT ?
To be fair it is a quiet season as most of us in the north aren’t riding too much until March , then it’s bike season all the way till autumn , i intend to make the most of it too đ
Meanwhile, babies stay inside getting a fix up and overhaul there and there đ
Just looked up the GV300SA. I love it! Want one! âŹ5250 new â incredible! I can dream!
We have to win Lotto lol
Which spark plugs do you use ?  (Exact name and part number)
Did you do any valve clearances to the engine?  Did a compression check too ?
Also check this too….
- HT Caps = Heat makes them fail sometimes , that’s why some of us tend to use NGK caps , but you can still use another HT cap from a Suzuki bike near your country’s salvage wreckers yard or bike shop and try it again?
- Ignition Coil = Because it is injected and model specific , the ECU wants the coils at a certain resistance to performance
–So check the coil for “primary resistance” and “secondary resistance” and let us know
Eg…Â 24,000 ohms and 00.10 ohm.
Keep us posted!
I donât know what the sound format was, just recorded it on WhatsApp! Canât remember what the site said, I think it just gave an ERROR and canât load that file!
How odd, email it to me and ill check it out. If its a recognizeable format, ill flag the site to just allow it from your account. It probably panicked thinking it was a trojan lol
The parts on the site mainly have a “swap and go policy” , so if i mention your bike and its year , it is guaranteed.
Ie. Air Filter from K&N with Jets to fit GT Carb 125 – That would mean every GT125 up to 2019 as they all have the same airbox and same carbs.
But i totally understand because i sell two types of stator kits  , 1 stator kit is for old gen bikes and it will not work on RC 125 bikes because Korea “on the sly” changed the flywheel. It took us 6 months of testing our bikes and research to know the best flywheels and stator kits are compatible with the RC 2015
RC = Any GT 125 that has an LED rear and slim panels at the back (from 2010 to 2019)
GTPÂ =Â “P” denotes the naked version of the RCOld Gen = old grey engines from 2003 to 2007 and old body plastics at the back and a massive curvy back light.
Send me an email , if you want sales advise for anything on this store.
For general help on fitting parts and troubleshooting, just make a new topic anytime on this forum ,  myself and others will chime in đ – Some answers help other new riders who may fall on your topics too.
If the square block inside the swingarm is greased a little bit, it helps.
It is “normal” for it to go up by 1mm max , it’s to allow some clearance.
As Simon says , it should be a tight slot or the caliper won’t move at all đ if the axle is moved again for chain tension adjustment.
Thanks Marcel. Iâm so loathe to take the carbs off and do it as you said! I was thinking of a cone filter but thereâs no clearance!
The problem with cone filters has been happening for years and was discussed in another hyosung forum (but its shut down now which is a shame) and also facebook hyosung groups and my own experience.
I’ve tried so many ways believe me, i really have and so has everyone else.  The Hyosung 125 twin forces you to keep the airbox system.  It will never be happy or run right if it has pods and it doesn’t help with carbs being upside down (that’s the design and the nature of CV carb allows vertical rows of carbs to power multiple cylinders if space is an issue etc)
hence forward even this shop only sells “replacement” catridge filters to go on filter covers and customers still retain the airbox.
I feel your frustration haha.
It’s now all about “how meticulous” can you keep that intake pipe and carb from requiring frequent removals off the chassis đ¤
Hey,
In honesty Laser Plugs or CR8E are the best ones for the RC bikes (newer shape models)
The old gen 125R are a little less common now (it’s the ones with grey engines and old shape panels) = They don’t mind using Laser, IX, CR8E.
Dare I say with my years of experience servicing hyosungs here in Yorkshire, i can flatout tell you the new gen 125RC are the hardest things to start if the following applies
- Clearances out of adjustment (any engine that hasn’t had it done in last 4,000 miles has to have it done)
- Compression low
- Carbs fouling
- Clutch switch bad (don’t bypass it)
- Bad coils, bad caps (very common, yes both the coil and cap take each other down)
- rusty electrics.
As you have a 2016 RC , i would honestly say Laser or CR8E is the best way to go.  They don’t like “IX” (blue box) ones because they are either good for 5k miles (peak) then they wane fast , or if they foul or get annoyed, they don’t perform well in the RC engine and henceforward starting nightmares. I’ve not seen an RC have a good day with bad plugs but i have had more faith in the old grey engines to keep on going even if it felt like it has 1 cylinder left lol.
I have digressed a little bit as purely my opinion , i’d say stock CR8E or Laser grade.  Though, the stock ones would do just fine, just make sure the coils and caps are in good spec and the battery is 14v idling , 14v at 5k revs and ofcourse a happy carb đ
Though , i’m thinking of trying VPOWER NGK plugs , on a spare engine head just for fun and see what the A/F ratio is and what temps the exhaust pipes make from ice cold vs stock plugs just to see if i can move up from laser ones.
Itâs time someone designed and made a new one that can be fitted after carbs. Come on engineers, someone make one!
You can technically do it like this;
- CNC BOX made out of metal.
- 48mm(ish) rubber slots (from some other bike you hunt at salvage yard) under the metal box with 2 holes.
- Carb sits on the metal box
- Front of the metal box has cnc welded metal pipe with a short rubber boot to hang on to the side-right air filter container.
Then you can do away with the complicated plastic box đ
That’s why my tutorial advises the plastic box and carbs to mount first and tight….. the slide intake pipes from under 1 by 1 , i mean if you do it often it becomes easy and routine like.
The stress comes from being delicate with the rubber pipes that can easily buldge and split!
Was the sound file an MP3 format or something or did the website uploader give an error ~? – I’m always willing to fix any hiccups.
I am very happy you got her running , what more can i say after all this. And hey no need to buy a carb body now either , just look after your current one đ
Are you able to attach any pictures on here using the “Add Media” button on white reply box below this page once you sign in.
It is for you to point your hand or tool object towards the part of the brake system that is moving and i will advise accordingly ?
let us know fella.
Hey,
Welcome to the site đIf the engine starts and it is idling OK , that sounds good!
It may sound stupid but forgive me for asking?
- Is the belt okay and attached to the wheel?
- If you increase the throttle (twist up), does the wheel even spin at all when you have the bike on its Center Stands or Jacked up in the air?
- Has anyone replaced engine or electric parts to it lately ?
Keep us posted sir! – It will also help future buyers who may stumble on this thread đ
All the best wishes.  As before, i did see it and i can say what a stunner it is!
If you have a comet that has ON/OFF tap (Silver Frame type) = Just clean it out well as it does its job quite well. When its OFF, there is zero chance of hydrolocking the engine anyways
As dodgy pumps can STILL allow fuel to the carbs if the tap is left on the ON position.
If the frame is black and tap is “Vacuum” type = Disconnect fuel hose (safely!!!) , if it pours out while the bike is switched off = Just replace it.
Hey,
Cons
- If the tap gets faulty , it will try to force the dodgy float valves open if so much fuel (ie. full tank) is trying to rush through
Then fuel flows down inlets (wearing them down a bit) it is still a weird rubber thing but complicated to buy enmasses (hence rarity)
Then fuel makes its way down the engine
Then we have hydrolocking
Then at some point, fuel constantly mixing with oil = hotter engine, soon gone crank bearings , etc… Nothing good. - If the tap is OK, but the float valves are fishy = Problem above still happens
Pros
- Less pipe work. Less vacuum lines. (Assuming a tap is a simple ON/OFF type.
For my experience with the 125cc (mostly fixing customer ones) , there was never no need to bypass what Korea does.
– Better vacuum tap (precaution thing / preventative maintenance)
– New fuel pump (if customer one is bad)The bikes do 80 indicated (likely 72 GPS) with everything stock , there is NO power gains bypassing the vacuum pump ,  the carb will drink the same amount of fuel until the floats shut up the door for fuel entry in to carbs.
I do personally think those that try to outdo Korea’s fuel system have other issues with the bike or just feeling frankeinstein or being cheap skates and the next owner is going to be annoyed at someone taking shortcuts. It’s just my 2 pence really haha.
Carbs are Mikuni Japan = They have enough power to run a 400cc.  They are almost overkill for a 125cc but they don’t like poor jobs & like to be clean.
Pump is the SAME one used on a 650cc Hyosung (hard facts here) = So if they say bypass it on a 125cc , their pumps are shot that’s why đ or they half-arsing it.The 125cc will not exceed the capacity of the Mikuni DF52 pumps (hell even SV650 uses the same DF pump as hyosung does) ,  both Suzuki and Hyosung use Mikuni Carbs = You will be alright here with the 125cc Hyosung specific BDS26 carbs.
The Fuel TAP = Made in Korea , it works. But can fail sometimes. So we just upgrade them.  Fuel pumps ? = They last well. (What kills em is E10 fuel, long standing for years or owners using chinese clones of the pumps)
I am digressing đ
