♠️ M77
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Haha, it’s okay fella, you can quote certain text or whole message from a person’s reply.
Or just reply normally when you see a white box right at the bottom of any thread , just as you would making new topics too 🙂
You can open the bottom dirt trap of the fuel tap and remove tap from the tank anyways.
Use carb cleaner to soak it through all over it and check ON/OFF/Reserve operate smoothly when twisting the knob.
Spray carb cleaner inside = nothing should come out of the output hole.
Spray carb cleaner inside & switch to “ON” or “RESERVE” the liquid should flow out easily.Even the australians discourage new members on facebook from using such sites , i do not recommend them as they are just wishy-washy. Honestly , there isn’t much i can’t get. If my oldest UK hyosung dealer (what is local to me) or Sinnis UK or MotoGB UK can’t get it from KR Motors Korea , best believe Korea isn’t making such part or they have suspended production temporarily. It is true some random websites out there might have stock for certain parts , it might just be old stock they bought up.
It’s not just blue/white sites being a scam, some of they do actually ship products but they take months or customer gets wrong parts in the boxes. I get told this all the time. I was approached by one of the sites to do business , i said no.Email me a proper list of parts so that i can see what i can do for you.
The carb rebuild kit includes the “float seat , float seat screw , float seat plunger tip”
Black floats are in stock and sold separate on the site shop , even the Needle for slides or NEEDLE JETS (where slide needle goes in , and has acorn nut on the other end etc) – I try to put as much of the common carb parts on the site as possible, if something is missing i will get it for you or advise accordingly , i will look out for your email.
Do not worry about idle mixtures, once you put the Size 20 Pilot Jets & Upgraded Main Jets ===> Set it to 2.5 full turns out from closed stop, then this is a setting forever.
The “STARTING JET” (the jet that can’t be removed inside carb body) is what will start the bike first.
This video is 100% our carb but imagine upside down 😉
Hi Marcel, many thanks for your reply and advise. I’m very interested 520 Chain conversion kit, how would I know for sure that this fits my bike? The owners manual says it’s a GV-125S but I can’t see any mention of EFI. The parameter list just says Carburetor/Injector type 28239162. Thanks, Nik
GV125S is EFI (Electric Fuel Injectors) , because i made that distinction to prevent customers making wrong orders (Ie. A carb person buys parts that only fit an Injected model)
GV125 up to 2019 is known as GV125C (C=Classic/Carby)
GV125S (known in other markets as GV125-S , GV125 CBS (as it has CBS brakes) , Aquila 125 EFi)if your bike looks like our shop pictures (and has a rear brake DISC not a drum) , then yes 100000% it will bolt straight in as i will make sure of it 😉
So parts for the GV125-S will always have a thumbnail/icon of the GV-125-S itself.
And a separate category for current and future parts is here
https://hyoriders.club/product-category/gv125s-efi/I will be listing some new parts for the brakes front and rear either tonight or this week, so keep an eye on that section!
Hi All, has anyone else come across this problem, if the bike sits for about a week without being used the fuel petcock sticks. This has happened a few times and have had to remove the tank and dismantle the petcock, just wondering if there is a permanent solution to this problem!
Have you also unscrewed the bottom of the petcock (fuel tap) , to see if there is a lot of trap and do you use RON95 or E5 fuel ? Here in UK, we usually try to advise owners not to use E10 grade fuel due to the fact it messes up fuel systems for the bike and is corossive if stood for too long , due to bare metal inside the GV tanks.
Hi Marcel, I only use E5 (BP Premium) yes checked the trap each time and always clear. I was only away for 5 day’s and it has seized up, every time it happens I strip it down but there is never any sign of a problem, really can’t understand why it happens!!!
It sounds like as a precaution , it could be time to just change it out if that’s the only issue on the bike. Actually, its not uncommon either for vacuum taps for GTR bikes to crap up early on so you ain’t entirely alone in this
Ideally you want the tap always shut when the engine is off , so there is no fuel in the cylinders overnight or hydrolock happens or soon seized piston rings as fuel has mixed with oil overtime.
Have a deep sniff through your oil filler cap just to make sure, you know a strong fuel smell or oil looks watery and jet black.
Hi All, has anyone else come across this problem, if the bike sits for about a week without being used the fuel petcock sticks. This has happened a few times and have had to remove the tank and dismantle the petcock, just wondering if there is a permanent solution to this problem!
Have you also unscrewed the bottom of the petcock (fuel tap) , to see if there is a lot of trap and do you use RON95 or E5 fuel ?
Here in UK, we usually try to advise owners not to use E10 grade fuel due to the fact it messes up fuel systems for the bike and is corossive if stood for too long , due to bare metal inside the GV tanks.
Hi Marcel. Thank you for the replies to my questions. Very helpful.
I have one anomaly with my carbs – the back one has a main jet 87.5, and the front 90!! Reading all the articles I can on your site, it seems it should be the other way round. Should I just leave the 90 in the front and buy a new jet for the rear, and if so, what size?
Secondly, I wont do anything unless I can get the black tar and gunk out. The carbs are a mess! Can you suggest a dissolver that might work? I will try to find somewhere with an ultrasonic bath but don`t know if that would work.
Thank you again for your help.
Mike
Hey mike,
if you had seen the Jetting tutorial, you will be okay to use 92.5 front and 95 rear.
87.5 is very lean for the 250 but it was done by Korea as some countries have emission laws for imported bikes.
In my opinion, the bikes should be 92.5 and 95 because a factory made GT250 uses those jets straight of the factory.However, make sure mixture is 2.5 full turns out from closed on both carbs. Never touch this ever again forever (regardless of bike’s mood or engine woes)
Factory mix is usually around 3 turns.Do you know anyone locally that fixes bikes ? They should have an ultrasonic bath machine and they will do it for you, it usually works unless there is serious rust on one of the carb parts inside the body.
If its just black goo , tar, it will usually come away eventually , consensus is that we tend to clean the carbs hard twice with a sonic bath , and finally an air compressor (as per service manual)
FUEL OVER FLOW TO THE ROAD / GROUND
FLOAT BOWL MINI HOSES = FUEL DRAIN (To do this before removing carbs)
It dangles down to the road.See this link on how to drain fuel before removing carbs
[Tutorial] How to swap Carb Main Jets – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Last picture…. FUEL PUMP yes correct 🙂“GREY PORT” = Vacuum input from intake rubber pipes.
“GOLD PORTS” ====> They have an arrow marked for fuel direction as you can see in the imageNow , please look at this tutorial below to help route the “fuel” pipes (gold ports only)
Please ignore the fact it is GTR 1255cc , it uses the same pump as a GV250 carby , Korea just moved the pump to another location
When the engine is cranking , make sure the fuel tap from your tank is switched on , and within 5 seconds (max or else starter motor overheats & more wear in the crank)
You will see the fuel shoot out of the pump in to a bucket when you point the hose down to it (the same hose that is meant to send fuel to the carb itself)Hope this helps ?
HiFLo for me. The K&N “oil filters” are made in china (it will say in the box or catridge itself) , (well most oil filters are anyways) so don’t expect it to be made from US soil.
However the exception is their K&N AIR filters , they still have a plant there in US
I would stick with HiFlo or OEM Hyosung filters 🙂
single disc bikes have a small front master cylinder. double disc bikes have almost double-sized front master cylinder.
Correct 🙂
Hey, welcome!
When i was doing 520 orders for customers , they themselves and some garages used a bike jack / mini lift to rise the whole frame up. See the customer gallery images on the link below;
520 Upgrade Chain & Sprocket Kit [Conversion] :: Hyosung GV125-S EFi [Injected Models from 2019+]
Amazon usually has these types of products, sometimes called Motocross bike stand / jack up lift kit. I say Amazon because some orders from there have this thing called 1-day Prime, so you may even get it next day for urgent jobs.
I am not sure how many bike shops are in your area , but worth checking out to see if they stock it themselves and try it out?
I know you don’t like the scissor style ones, how about using Jacks to prop the bike up ?
Hey, welcome!
When i was doing 520 orders for customers , they themselves and some garages used a bike jack / mini lift to rise the whole frame up. See the customer gallery images on the link below;
520 Upgrade Chain & Sprocket Kit [Conversion] :: Hyosung GV125-S EFi [Injected Models from 2019+]
Amazon usually has these types of products, sometimes called Motocross bike stand / jack up lift kit. I say Amazon because some orders from there have this thing called 1-day Prime, so you may even get it next day for urgent jobs.
I am not sure how many bike shops are in your area , but worth checking out to see if they stock it themselves and try it out?
I know you don’t like the scissor style ones, how about using Jacks to prop the bike up ?
Welcome!
Take a look at this topic i created (I will add pictures soon, next time i work on a customer GV bike) , let us know if the link below helps?
[Tutorial] How to Remove & Re-Install the GV125 Carby | GV250 AirBox
That is amazing news , i am very happy for you!
Don’t throw away anything, trust me, with EFi parts, you need all the spares you can keep and she will be with you for years to come.
If you go somewhere nice, share some pics onthe forum 😉
no code. sometimes ride the red fi light will come on . When that happens it will run normal then I’ll slow down to check code and red light go’s away so I can’t check the code. I also took the injectors out and cleaned them with carburetor cleaner and I used the battery and everything To get pull setting again it’s still kind of squirt but I don’t know if it’s dumping to much fuel or what
As long as it says F(i) not F(ONE) / F(1) on the dash you will be correct thinking the injectors will be suspicious then again, the fuel injection system also relies on the lambda sensors operating well so the ECU can meter the fuel properly and the ET sensor (engine temp sensor) so ECU decides to enrich the cylinder to cool it down a bit or not or when it gets to operating temps injectors work full time.
or the air sensors in the airbox to the throttle body (air vs fuel vs spark = happy motor)
Where you live in USA, see about a local wreckers to find a crashed 650, to buy injectors from cheap and test your theory that it is the injectors being faulty ?
I am happy you made some progress with it my fellow yorkshire man.
Do you have carb cleaner still left ? – Look at the tutorial on this forum for “Carb jet” , just follow the instructions on how best to fit the carb and airbox together etc . Then put the air filter back in.
Set the idle screw high (to about 2k revs) , then remove choke and accelerator cables off the carb while it runs.
Now reduce the idle screw to 1500 rpm.
Does the RPM needle bounce up and down (like its starving for fuel)
or
using your hand , twist the throttle at the side of the carb , and see if the revs go down fast on the dash, if the revs a very slow to climb down to 1500 rpm and settle in.
You may be looking at sooty plugs or plugs breaking down (inconsistent spark power)
or
Take your carb cleaner out as i said earlier in this reply , spray the manifolds, spray under the manifold gaps where orings sit , spray under the airbox where carb swallows the box
Do 1 step at a time and make sure to really listen for any engine sound changes , usually if you spray somewhere the revs go up or bike shuts off = indicating that particular spot you sprayed is leaking air (& subsequent vaccum loss to draw fuel out of the carb)
Since its a CV carb = it implies constant velocity (Constant Velocity) , it is not able to tolerate even a minor air leak or an airbox missing, it just runs rough.
The inlet manifolds will still last long as you will make sure they do not split up , and keep using E5 fuel forever. E10 will rot it.
If you put a new engine in (is it just the “engine” itself ?) or did you also put new parts like injectors , other electronic sensors etc?
Usually on a 650cc , there is multiple ECU’s (Daewoo, Sentec, Mitsubishi Jap, Delphi, etc)
If your bike is Delphi = The “CHE” or “Fi” light should go away once bike is running normally.
However as Simon says , you may need to trick the ECU to find error codes as “CHE” usually impliescommunication error with the ECU , or KillSwitch assembly at handlebar, or connectors behind the ECU (even 1 single pin!) or connectors on the bike since you swapped engines , maybe one part on the bike is disconnected or not connected properly.
Also i will assume you did not change anything else (not all electronics on EFI Hyosung is backwards compatible, ie. 1 sensor works on Delphi but does not function well for Daewoo ECU) however, usually half the EFi parts are generally the same.
Bolded the words for emphasis since motor was swapped 🙂
GT125 & GT125R use engines from GV125 🙂 , even the 250cc uses GV engines.
So yes your 125GT engine is compatible with the GV125 bike 100% and they are both Carby.
Only 2020+ 125cc is EFI (injected) (GV125-S CBS)
26c! – So jealous!!!!!
Its winter here and I miss summer already , I will have to come to spain one day to be fair.
I believe my gt650r has a malfunctioning injector. Are there any compatible injectors that I can get from the local parts store
Welcome to the site, sorry that you’re having an issue with your fuel system.
I assume you have found the service manual for the EFi 650 , in this forum. Then tricked your ECU to display error code on the dash.
Did you get an error code or how did you come to this conclusion ?
Does the same issue happen if you swap injectors between front & rear cylinders ?
