♠️ M77
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Looks generic, so I can’t confirm if I ever tried them or not. “Yanhao” must be some chinese name but if it works , it works i guess!
Message the seller if in doubt (if its too small or too big to fit on your chassis and if the cap is some generic cap or OEM hyosung cap attached to the coil) (or if any returns accepted if the coil arrives dead)
My partner is going to order me parts for Christmas, I notice one has sold do you have another link for the required parts?
Send me an email when she is ready and I will see what I still have left, but they do sell quickly yes as its that season everyone is fixing their projects up before spring time 2024
I wanted to add by saying even Honda’s are mentioned somewhere on the GOV UK site to use E5 if they are very old carb models , although , using e10 on modern machines still presents a problem, it still means the more e10 usage the more maintenance later down the road the machine requires. Though some say it is “EFi E10 Ready” just so the auto makers can stay in business & sell products on top of EU’s stupid laws lol. They also think we may handle E30 in the near future ? I’d love to see that! (E5 still wins, if it ever stays around lol ) .
On Simon’s note in regards to “Shingden” regs. I wholly recommend them and they should have been factory for every 650cc that left Korea’s plants. I have witnessed with my own eyes a regulator going in smoke when a customer called me for help locally , all he did was change the battery , I was truly amazed the inferior outsourced part actually also cooked up his LCD display on the bike , I felt bad for him. Needless to say , Australians have been saying the same woes on their 650s online with connectors burning etc – That was enough for me to never sell new 650 oem regs (Hyosung doesn’t make them anyway, still outsourced to this day) – Shingden all the way for me.
That looks OK. Did the plugs clip nicely ? Facing right way?
If harness has 2 plugs then it fits a gv250 cdi with 2 plugs yes.
I couldnt see properly on the image so i just assumed its connected OK
A quadbike Marcel, yes that sounds good, very tempting and would be ideal in this area, except for…the exceedingly angry farmer chasing me with his shotgun!
If i was to milk one of his cows to save some labour of his hands , then slowly manipulate my way up his “friendship chain” , i may just slowly buy some acres of his land and have the guns , then it’s fair game to roll my quads in those lands , and i can always say “chassing rats away!” 😆
It sounds like it was hunting for fuel then couldn’t maintain idle then died off ?
I would not advise this === but does it idle at 4,000 revs on choke or what is the max revs the bike can idle on choke ? (Don’t run choke for more than 5-10mins) as not to cook the bike up.
Before we touch other parts, lets look at the carb again , lots questions below but don’t panic (some of them have answers/tutorials in other threads on this forum)
- Pilot Jets = What size ? Did you clean them again? Could you see though them?
- Did you “air compressor” the permanent jet that is in the carb (it also controls starting)(Can’t be removed but blow air through it to clean it)
- Main Jets ? what sizes?
- Mixtures? How many full turns ? Still OEM ? (I hope it is OEM otherwise it will be an abyss!)
- Float height ? (If its off, the pilots won’t reach the fuel before the floats close too early because height is too small)
- Cleaning the carbs => Did you replace the “float seat gold and float needle” , as they directly control how much fuel comes in and do they still have their “MESH” protectors ? (have to remove the gold seat to actually see it)
I’m 77 years young
That rhymes with “Heaven’s Heavenly” , hey speaking of flying angels , i hope your main petrol version is doing well so far & post anytime if you get stuck with something
Welcome fella.
This path screams for you get Hyosung ATV Quad , think how much fun you would have on the snowy fields 😉
Strange but here in UK the rear is hotter due to fact it gets less air (ironically not an air cooled bike but benefits from jet enrichment on the rear). Every twin hyosung i have worked on always had a rear cylinder 2.5 steps above the front.
Your setup with the customizations will be okay with a 127.5 range to 132.5 max size main jet on each cylinder. And this can be verified by plug chops that you will do just to make sure mixture is good.
The oem sizes is correct for 125 and 122.5 but rear should have had the bigger jet.
Did this help ? 🙏
” I found where those wires go but they broke right at the base where they go into the housing so I’m going to have to replace it, but would that prevent the bike from starting? ”
Not sure which wires you were referring to ?Check the dash say F1 or Fi ? And while you were at it , since it started for a split second.
Try this:
- Compression Test on full throttle , then we see how much psi each engine head has on cold.
(Though readings a better when its warmed as per service manual) - Speaking of service manual, head to the manuals section of this forum and get the 250cc EFi manual , trick your ECU to give up any error codes.
Or
Turn it off , disconnect battery for 12-24hrs , then follow the instructions on the manual to see if you get an error code which tells you what sensor or part on the bike is preventing it from starting
Hey,
Welcome! – Sorry i delayed , not sure what time it is over there as i know West vs East have slight time zone changes , it is “7pm UK” time as i write this message 😬.
Right, see those 3 wires hanging on the caliper ?
- They go from the “dash board ” –> directly –> to WHEEL SENSOR
- This wheel sensor is a black block that always sits on the left side of the bike
So check your left fork and confirm it is there and safely join the wires matching their colours , then tape them very well to avoid a fire hazard. The caliper does actually get hot with the brake disc too.
In regards to starting , do you get any sparks from both coils ? And the plugs are CR8E? (only this plug should be used especially on EFi bikes)
Will a 2010 GV250 efi work as a donor bike for my 2012 GV250 efi Delphi? I know they have a different ecu but the coils and sensors and stuff?
Daewoo uses Sentec or very early Delphi sensors.
Also stators , flywheels , ecu and all harness is locked to daewoo even coils may have different Ohms ratings
Little sensors like lambda probe ; airbox ISCV ; ET should be OK.
It tends to fill up after a very long ride at a steady pace but full throttles tend to drink it up , half full is OK for the size of that filter compared to the teeny ones Hyosung uses.
As long as there is fuel in there overnight, that’s good , it means your “fuel pump” (by the battery) isn’t sending fuel to the carbs while you’re sleeping & the floats get jammed one day, the engine gets hydrolocked 😬
Hey welcome Justin!
Honestly , You can do it while the airbox is still attached to the bike. You would just need to gently lay a big old rag on the floor, drop the fairings slowly.
You should see a choke cable hooked on a carb rail , it will be held down by a hook that pulls it when you activate the choke lever.
Hey,
The jetting sizes for “Mains” are OK with a variation of 5 or 2.5 it is because some states in your country or even EU countries have certain emission regulations , so if the bike arrives “downjetted” with- charcoal cannisters
- EGR (they errornously call it) (actually is called AIS or 2nd Air Valve System)
It would then make sense as to why Korea also has variations of their manuals but….”beside jetting” , 90% of the book tends to be globally correct for all their models as no other country has a “special carb” than the other country etc. The workshop manuals used to be for dealers in the old times when servicing or trying to honor warranties etc, we consumers just got the “cut down” version call owners manual which covers small owner maintenance leaving the big stuff to garages & dealers 😉 but i digress i assume you know this already
GT Naked models (250cc and 650cc) all use the same parts as the R model of the same year except ,
- R’s tend to be twin discs + nose metal cage added for face fairing
- Frame has a “2 stubs” to mount the cage (click here)
- Their own Box Headlight that is dual lamp (h1 & h3)
- A digital dashboard for 250R carbies only (Since carby GT250 has a twin old school dials)
A GT650 naked will have digital dash but usually towards the end of its carby era , transitioning to EFi (circa 2008-2010)
GT650R carby since 2005 has had a digital dash
Now if a bike has an “older twin clock” style dash , it will have a harness tied specifically to that. As some Naked models won’t accept a digital dash etc without its R harness variant (or EFi harness for EFi clocks) etc
All EFi models of GT naked use the same dash as their R sisters.
As i have learned over the years , the sections of manual covering the “facial” plastics or extra body work isn’t covered in great depth anyway, as fairings for R models are straight forward;-) , i am not sure what they would need to cover? Typically if a fairing breaks , Hyosung would say replace (or we over here in UK , send it to the bodyshop guy for repairs and repaint 😉 )
I think you will be OK with the current paper manual you have but if in doubt about a specific section , you’re welcome to ask!
Yes, that’s the teeny one that was so infamous for blowing up. Based on your recent report, these below suit your bike 100% (our regulators will be 3x larger than yours and it is intentional).
As you live in N.I , postage should be free but please send me an email with your postcode , just incase there is no surcharges for certain postcodes but I doubt it!Stator Unit (+ mandatory gasket card/template) (can’t re-use the old one) & various Stainless Bolts (required as OEM bolts are not great!):
Upgrade Magneto Alternator Stator Coil :: GT GV 125 250 + RT RX 125
Regulator Unit
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier [Reg Rec] :: GV GT 125 250 R GTR Hyosung
Oil Filter!
Oil Filter Service Kit & O-Rings – Hyosung GV125 GT125R GT125 GV250 GT250
You should have some good fresh oil ready and inspect your drain plug is all good, you will find oil related tutorial here:
As you want no old shavings or any particles to cling to the new stators. Clean that flywheel drum very well!
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/change-oil-filter-hyosung-twins/
I have to be sorry to be a bearer of bad news but when you start a bike , with a “truck running” , it means you sent too much “amps” (not volts)
14V is good but its like sending 5 gorillas to lift the bike up instead of needing just one , so it gets crushed when squeezed out by all 5. In other words thje strength of the current was too much for the bike even though it started.
It would likely mean
- Fried up stator
- 100000% fried up regulator (as you said it was insanely hot) , its not normal at all.
- If its an EFi bike, you possibly may end up having to replace defective sensors all over the bike one by one that use energy, such as your coils , ISCV, Lambda Probe o2, etc.
This can explain why it may not start on its own as who knows if the previous owners have done the same thing , current that’s too much = heat and heat increases “resistance” . If a part “resists” too much, it won’t fully pass the require signals to start the bike and run it effeciently.
So, tear down the bike until it is on bare harness , smell the harness for burn marks and ECU = these are so important that trying to find a new D-ECU’s or Harnesses for a GV specifically is difficult as it is (Since Korea has now moved on to GV300S and GV250DR 2021).
Replace these right away to be safe;
- HT Caps
- Ignition Coils
- Spark Plugs (CR8E only!)
- Stator Unit that’s for DELPHi
- Regulator that’s for DELPHi
If in doubt send an email , ill find the parts for you but hey….. you’re lucky it didn’t go on fire. Years ago regulators were posted online by Hyo owners of them going on fire.
Again sorry for the bad news but it looks like we doing an electrical reset and you can’t trust half the old electronics anymore. Things like stators / regs / coils are usually not “user-fixable”
