♠️ M77
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Have you looked on ebay ? There is a few of them there. I looked. Also i don’t usually post ebay links to sellers i don’t know , like you said , some may be scammy but ask the sellers first on ebay if the item is fully tested & working, and it can save you money buying another fried unit.
I have no garage so have to do it all outside. If it isn’t raining it’s freezing haha
You’re the king of your house , bring the damsel inside and put a rag under the bike and keep the fuel tank outside, carbs out and be wise lol.
It’s gonna snow soon anyways , so we should all have our babies indoors (safely ofcourse, so the fire service doesn’t panic!)
Beautiful!
Okay , you need the following to complete the GTR looks
- Left & Right Bottom Lower Engine Fairings (Any GT125R | Gt250R | Gt650R will fit up to 2021)
- Middle V-Piece (Belly Pan) (Front Exhaust | Radiator Guard) => From any cc’s GTR model up to 2021
- GT650R (2005-2008) fairing brackets for the frame (This allows bottom fairings to mount to engine) and also the “nose Cone” to mount to lower fairings too. Some people make their own custom brackets (CNC/Local Fabrication skills etc)
Stock CR8E plugs will be OK, but swervice manual usually mentions spark plugs all the time as half of fuel / sparking issues as if a carb is good , coils etc but plugs are not, the bike will be jerky since those little things foul easy but we need them little things to get us from A to B (literally)
Laser Plugs + Caps + Coils make a good three-way marriage but lets make sure the bike is good for it, as if the bike is good then you wont change your plugs for a long time (I’ve even had laser plugs on my bikes for 2-4yrs and rarely touch the carbs but it could just be me being OCD lol)
Did you get a chance to take pics of your plugs ?
The OEM Caps are not great as Hyosung doesn’t make them, but some outsourced company called “Golden China” . Using NGK Caps does help a lot and they rarely fail with sparking issues as bad caps can cause weird misfiring issues especially when its hot as its buried deep in the engine heads.
You want the rubber NGK caps similar to the ones on our store. Don’t buy “Plastic NGK Cap” , totally rubbish those ones. (Just like regular CR8E Plugs & LASER plugs are recommended but don’t touch “Iridium IX Blue Box” as they don’t like IX plugs much)
The EFi GV125-S uses an entirely different engine , there is nothing from the EFi 125 Aquila that’s compatible backwards to any carby 125 bike and it has 6 valves ( SIX VALVES)
You have the luxury for a 125cc bike with twin japanese carbs (that can run a 400cc) , a simplistic CDI, very simple electronics, and an overengineered engine with 8 valves.
IMO I’d keep it carby. Use E5 forever while it is still there. And use a 250 EFi GT cooler , it prolongs its life greatly with that cooler.
EFi = Be a wizard as most UK garages are too “sensetive” to touch a “Hyosung” , a South Korean bike lol. But they don’t mind screwing up chinese EFi Lexmotos!
Why convert EFi ? should I ask you…
If Hyosung had every chance to make the GT125 EFi, they would have years ago (since they did EFi Hyosungs in 2007-2008 for 650 & 250cc), so i will be very very curious to see how they tackle this one and make it faster than carby with the ever growing restrictive Euro6-7 laws ahead & crappy E10-E15 fuel years later 😬
Hell, we still haven’t got an update to the GT250 & GT650 yet , last EFi update was 2012 when they switched to Delphi & updated its looks but we haven’t got a new build GT125 EFi , they would have to find a way to be faster
If it is a “GT-S” , that means it already has the top half of the GTR fairings like “Screen , Headlight Box, Face Nose Cone” ?
Or was it originally a GT Comet , that was converted to half GTR (GT-S) ?
A picture helps so i can see how much plastics it has on then i can advise what fairings to get.
Also Hyosung changed the looks over the years for all GT models until recent.
Sounds good!
Almost scared that poor kitty off lol – Poor cat, it should be the one that’s purring not the vtwin 😉
Ride safe this colder season though!
@Cobra2 this should be posted as your own topic in the “tutorial” section, that would save a lot of headaches for lots of Gt125 riders
This is very good! 👍
I am suspicious this is the same as the GV minus 1 socket (Some GV’s have 2 sockets only) but i will confirm later 🙂
Was the carb needle on the 1st notch (towards the blunt end?)
Simon is correct , if it goes on the middle slot – can it help ? as that’s OEM. Hence its towards the 3rd tip towards pointy tip, it means you get to “mains” a bit sooner,from stoodstill “pilot” idling.
The reason for the 3rd groove towards the tip is when the slides lift , you get a bit of enrichment since the needle is up 2mm ish out of the carb, so that tends to affect the 4-7k rpm flatness (mid-range) but the 125cc usually revs past 7k pretty quickly on hard throttle when the bike is okay & the main jets simply just take over at this rate.
If the mixtures have been messed with , floats messed with (like Cobra2 says on wrong float heights) = it can throw things off a little bit.
Also when you change gears , do you get any jerk-jerk-jerk behavior then it revs up / rides normally ?
Also can you supply pictures of your plugs so we see what’s happening with the mixture ?
Any intake mods ? any exhaust mods ?
Lots of questions i know but take ya time, more info is good for our heads
I will get a picture for you soon , give me 24hours since i will go look at one of the donor GV’s that has the same CDI as you and advise accordingly
I think a picture of mine would make life easier for you 😉 (that’s if someone doesn’t beat me to it!)
So if you followed the manual exactly (this is after unplugging the ECU for a day & removing the battery for a day) , then you reconnect it all back , do the the paper clip trick, the ECU doesn’t even throw a code ?
And yes a compression test is a very idea at this stage so we can rule out that both cylinders compress enough to start the bike.
Take a look at the plugs , if they are jet dark, then your jets are too big but i think 95 is a max sweet spot 🙂
Post a picture of the CDI unit (it must be a GV stamped unit)
(The backside of it so i can see the sockets)Post a picture of the plugs meant to go to the CDI unit from the GV harness itself.
(Try to space them apart so i can see all the wiring colours)I can try to guide you from what i can see
I think the best setup would be 92.5 & 95 max because the GV Aquilas do not like any air modifications to the air intake airboxes when using the OEM carbs & OEM parts. The OEM air filter is more than sufficient for a 400cc motorcycle. Keep the pilot jets at size 20 on both cylinders. They hate pod filters and will usually show their mood with lack of power and difficulties in optimizing a “pod” setup
The exhaust may be a little beneficial if we use OEM 2002 twin exhaust pipes because for some reason i’ve known that the GV’s really perform best with their old style twin cans. If it is not possible, try to find similar size cans (that reach the end of the swingarm) , like what LeoVince does for GV250s and Gv125s whilst still giving good power and noise 😉
You should look for the 2-pin plug that’s under the rear seat , on the left side (as if you were behind the bike facing yourself towards the front of the the bike)
The SV and Hyosung both use Mikuni Carbs , but because of Hyosung & Suzuki ‘s past relationship , the similarities would be there…
But.. Hyosung’s engine is faster than the SV’s if tuned right, i know it is, it may have different jetting than the SV. Then there is also some small metal parts hyosung makes themselves by hand to join 2 carbs together , some metal parts to guide the cables properly etc , small little things , even the idle adjuster cable seems Hyosung made with the help of Mikuni.
I think this might also avoid Hyosung having to copy Suzuki entirely and pay licenses/copyrights for everything , hence you could argue their engines are similar but most internals are “Hyosung Made” for “Hyosung only” so to speak.
The SV might have extra parts attached to the carb that Hyosung doesn’t need. (Less parts , less maintenance to worry so to speak lol)
You could rob some parts there and there but don’t expect to copy everything from the SV 😉
Hey,
Can you open the bike on full throttle ? or was it ever dyno’d ? – I would say since it’s a carb model, it would be similar to the efi where the there would be either:
- Restrictor Plate that limits the air flow in the intake throats (least i expect that for some EU models)
- Restrictor Plate for the throttle that stops the carbs going full throttle (can only go up to certain revs, etc)
Any other restrictions will be across all GT models (LAMS or not) usually is the exhaust muffler & intake air filter , plus if its carb the jets will be downjetted slightly (least here in EU for silly emissions control) but it would still be a full throttle bike even with these applied
In AU , its commonly the throttle restrictor plate being added to stop the bike going full throttle either carb or Fi. Just EFi is more common now.
Beautiful cruisers! – Don’t change the pipes , they look good, and they are still to this day best performing pipes torque wise. Rare now days. I am not a fan of the later EFI models with the huge bazookas lol.
Welcome to the site!
Have you managed to get the service manual from my previous comments and trick the ECU to spew out an error code ?
So that we have a better idea what sensor is acting up , that prevents you from starting it (I mean if it screams to life, then dies , then the ECU has probably cut the sparks off if one of the sensors on the bike is acting up) or see below about compression
Bike will ride without a speed sensor that is on the left bottom fork leg (your cut 3x wires you see down there) , the dash will just say 0 mph / 0 kmh
Also find out if you can do a cold compression test and let us know the figures?
- All spark plugs out
- use the metal pipe with a curve rubber tip of the compression tool
- Hold it down hard, crank the bike for 5 seconds max
- Read the compression for front engine
- Repeat above ^ for rear engine
- Do this with full throttle open too.
Process of elimination now! (Well, until we get to the part that was stopping the bike starting or engine has something out of spec such as compression)
Regards
